Since some people are getting so called "bulletproof" or "jerry spec" transmissions that turn out to be not at all as advertised, I thought I'd put together a few things that can be checked to verify what parts are in the trans. This will likely be a living document which will have additions over time. To start I will only get into things that can be checked externally or with the pan off. Should someone need help after tearing a trans down all the way, we can go through some of those items at that time.
First thing is easy, the case. This image is of the driver's side, the large hole near the left side is where the manual lever goes through the case. I have seen the F7 casting number on 97-01 cores I have had here. If you have an F5 or older casting number, you have the old style case, and I would not use it for a performance build.
Inside the pan, you can have individual wires going to the solenoids, these were used through 97.
Or, you can have the printed circuit board, as used from 98-present. Much cleaner.
Thanks to Big Scott for those 2 images. If you didn't have to change the pinout of the wiring harness connector to get the trans to function in your 97 or older car, then you do not have the new style electricals with the circuit board.
Now, on to EPC solenoids. You should be able to read the numbers on these with the pan off and no further disassembly.
This one is from an original 96 trans, note the F3AP number on it, and yes I know these are hard to get clear pictures of.
This one comes from a 98-up trans, you can see it has a different style connector on it for the printed circuit board, and an F8AP number.
And finally, the one you want, from a 5.4L trans, this has the XL3P number. This solenoid allows higher line pressure, I would not build a performance transmission without it.
Now, short videos of one way clutches. First out of the case, just so you can get a good feel of the sound differences. There's no way you should mistake one for the other.
Now of course you probably don't have your trans all apart, so how do they sound in an assembled trans? In these videos I have the tailhousing off so I can easily grip the output shaft to turn it. If the trans is in the car and the rear end jacked up, you can take the trans out of park and turn the driveshaft by hand to duplicate this test.
Roller clutch in trans
Mechanical Diode in trans
Still no mistaking one from the other with a sound difference like that. This clearly shows how someone could not mistakenly install a trans without a MD, when you have to turn the driveshaft to bolt it to the rear end, you would also hear the MD ratcheting, provided the MD is actually there.
If a trans doesn't have an MD in it, it isn't even worth using with a stock engine. The roller clutch is junk, the bean counters at Ford didn't give in to the extra cost of the MD clutch for no good reason.
There's a start. Questions and comments welcomed.