How to fix your 96/97 Door handle once and for all.. - TCCoA Forums

 
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-16-2009, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Talking How to fix your 96/97 Door handle once and for all..

1/8" thick by 2" wide or so strip of steel from any home/hardware store.


Remove the handle pin that the handle pivots on. I had to slightly grind down a peened over section to be able to pull it out. I used a dremel with a high speed cutter bit to get in there.
Long and skinny needle nose pliers and a pair of linesman pliers helped here.




Trace hook end onto steel. Making sure to also scribe hole for the trip rod.




Cut out the outline.



And drill out the hole for the trip rod. 11/32" I believe.



Cut off old plastic hook. I just hacked it off with a 1/8" cutoff wheel on my grinder. Precision wasn't a big deal.

You have to cut into the blocked off end of the handle so you can insert the new steel hook.




I decided to also have the pivot rod run through the new steel insert. Just trace the hole using the pick or an owl.



Then I installed the new insert, lined up the holes using the pivot rod to keep it in alignment, and drilled 2 more holes so I can put in some reinforcement pins.




I used a couple small nails I had laying around, and drilled the holes to fit. Then I used some plastic epoxy inside the handle and on the new insert for extra help.

Put it all back together, cut off all but 1/8" or so of the nails. Put the handle in a vice and crimped the nails down to hold everything in place. Make sure you only catch the nails..

Reassemble the handle, reinstall in to the door with new rivets..



And you should never have to deal with this $!##$^%@# door handle breaking again! (this was #2 for me!)

BTW, this little tool here has become invaluable for working inside these doors and quite a bit else on these cars.




Took about 45 minutes to do. I've gotten good at working inside the doors..

Left the dead platform for good. It's nice finally having a car you can buy stuff for!

Last edited by ummduh; 02-25-2012 at 06:05 PM.
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-17-2009, 01:24 AM
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Nice writeup. Very good idea.

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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-17-2009, 01:53 AM
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um , what goes wrong w/ them??

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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-17-2009, 06:19 AM
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The little pin that acts as the hinge's pivot (it also keeps the handle secured in its place) rusts out. Mine did, but I used a small stainless steel machine screw to fix it.

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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-17-2009, 10:13 AM
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This hasn't happened to me thankfully, but I do have a problem where sometimes when I pull the outside handle, as I release, the door lock engages, you can see the lock post thing go down as you let it go. So sometimes I just need to grab something from the car, and when I go back, it's locked. Or if I working on audio stuff and open and close the doors a lot. Anyone have this problem? I'll probably start a new thread so I don't hijack this one, but if some has a quick and simple answer, I'd like to know. Maybe PM me or something.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-17-2009, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottie6.0 View Post
um , what goes wrong w/ them??
You can see in

http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...t=IMG_4598.jpg

where the top of the lever split/broke and won't retain the rod anymore. On the top of it where all the paint is gone. I got the car like that, and then the replacement (used) broke within a month.. Really within 2 weeks of normal usage.

Left the dead platform for good. It's nice finally having a car you can buy stuff for!
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-24-2009, 09:41 AM
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Broken handle also

My driver side door handle has just started to break. It is off the hinge pin at the front . I can still use it for now.

Is there an easier fix for this? What parts would I need?
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 07:39 PM
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You mean the 96 & 97s are different from 95 back cars in this area?

A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 08:52 PM
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my old t-bird had this problem, i just put a piece of wire coat hangar in there.
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 03:22 PM
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ok what if say the outside handle is fine, but the inside handle sometimes doesnt wanna open the door?

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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 05:34 PM
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Pull the door panel and have a look to make sure the linking mechanisms are all tight, and go from there.

-Brandon
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 09:06 PM
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ill do that tomorrow after work. its not so bad where i have to dukes of hazard getting out, just sometimes when i pull the handle i have to yank it like 3 times, and i really dont wanna break it haha

97 green, 4.6L sport package. k&n cold air from an 01gt. so far my best at the strip was 15.808 @ 89mph at new england dragway.
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 01:38 AM
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I've also seen and had them break at the pivot due to idiots pulling the weight of the fing door by the handle only. Ever since my local idiot repair shop broke it and replaced it I lift the handle gently and grab the door by the lip behind the lock area. Opening the door this way will severly reduce the risk of it happening again, of course your still likely to have an idiot date or other idiot passenger yank on the handle while the car is locked or pull the whole door open by the handle but that is inevitable.

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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-03-2011, 09:14 PM
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Well mines a little late for this DIY..but def. a great idea for the future..My plastic peice where the pin goes through on the front side of the handle is broke. Nothing to attach the pin to. Gotta put a new handle on it. Does anyone make a aftermarket one or is Ford the only place to get a new one?
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 05:08 AM
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From what I recall they are discontinued. You'll need to pull a good one from a same color car, or pull a good one in the wrong color and have it painted.

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 09:27 PM
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Thats what I was told, but the localFord house said they could get one for me...I found me a donor car for more parts so I will prolly just snatch them off it..
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-03-2012, 01:16 PM
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My passenger door handle just stopped working turns out its the same problem, where the rod attaches to the exterior handle decided to break....

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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-03-2012, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalPistol View Post
You mean the 96 & 97s are different from 95 back cars in this area?
Yes, I personally feel the 94/95 style is FAR SUPERIOR to the 96/97 style.

People like the 96/97 style because it's flatter/sleeker and painted to the body color.

I like the 94/95 style because they never break and they have little lights by the keyhole (nice, neat little touch).

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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-03-2012, 02:22 PM
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I'm tempted to swap to 94-95 handles...

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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NetKeym View Post
I like the 94/95 style because they never break and they have little lights by the keyhole (nice, neat little touch).
Not all of the 94/95's did it was part of the lighting package. There were also light-up ones for 96/97 but I haven't seen those for ages.

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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 09:26 PM
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Not all of the 94/95's did it was part of the lighting package. There were also light-up ones for 96/97 but I haven't seen those for ages.
there where? I always thought people swapped 95 lock cylinders into 96+ handles, but that wasn't the case?

I ordered the very last brand new pacific green passenger side handle today

As for 89-95 handles, there are quite a few drivers side handles available new, absolutely NO passenger side handles...if there where I'd "downgrade" to them

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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earl View Post
there where? I always thought people swapped 95 lock cylinders into 96+ handles, but that wasn't the case?

I ordered the very last brand new pacific green passenger side handle today

As for 89-95 handles, there are quite a few drivers side handles available new, absolutely NO passenger side handles...if there where I'd "downgrade" to them
Yeah, back when I swapped my 94-95 to the 96-97 style our original TCCoA parts dealer had listing for "lighted" and "unlighted" but he didn't know if he could get a hold of any more lighted versions and they were double the cost so I just went with unlighted.

The lock cylinders are different. The part that lights up is flat on the 94-95 and all curved on the 96-97

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1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6 AED 349.27RWHP/391.29RWTQ Engine Build Exterior shots
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 10:20 PM
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interesting...I'll look up the lock cylinders and see if there are two versions...even if it's all gone and there are none left, it will still show up as having existed at one time...

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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 10:43 PM
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I have way too many posts to try and use the search feature to look back to find the thread. lol

Here ya go. Note "Illum Entry" vs this one without

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R.I.P. Johnny Langton 1975-2011

1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6 AED 349.27RWHP/391.29RWTQ Engine Build Exterior shots
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Last edited by ShadowDragon; 03-09-2012 at 10:58 PM.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowDragon View Post
I have way too many posts to try and use the search feature to look back to find the thread. lol
You guys were at it back then too... lol post circa 2005 regarding lighted locks:
single key conversion

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 11:01 PM
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You guys were at it back then too... lol post circa 2005 regarding lighted locks:
single key conversion
LOL, indeed we were.

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R.I.P. Johnny Langton 1975-2011

1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6 AED 349.27RWHP/391.29RWTQ Engine Build Exterior shots
2002 Thunderbird Premium Triple Black 3.9
2013 Fusion Hybrid
*SCRAPPED* 1994 LX 4.6 NA 13.6@100mph 236.07RWHP/286.26RWTQ
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2012, 10:07 PM
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I used a stanless steel rod i had laying around measurd the distance i needed cut a notch in it slid it into the door side "side toward the back of the car" and slide it into place with the spring then used a c clip to hold it into place hence the notch. Havent had to touch it other than doing the same thing to th other side without removing the handles

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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ummduh View Post
1/8" thick by 2" wide or so strip of steel from any home/hardware store.


Remove the handle pin that the handle pivots on. I had to slightly grind down a peened over section to be able to pull it out. I used a dremel with a high speed cutter bit to get in there.
Long and skinny needle nose pliers and a pair of linesman pliers helped here.




Trace hook end onto steel. Making sure to also scribe hole for the trip rod.




Cut out the outline.



And drill out the hole for the trip rod. 11/32" I believe.



Cut off old plastic hook. I just hacked it off with a 1/8" cutoff wheel on my grinder. Precision wasn't a big deal.

You have to cut into the blocked off end of the handle so you can insert the new steel hook.




I decided to also have the pivot rod run through the new steel insert. Just trace the hole using the pick or an owl.



Then I installed the new insert, lined up the holes using the pivot rod to keep it in alignment, and drilled 2 more holes so I can put in some reinforcement pins.




I used a couple small nails I had laying around, and drilled the holes to fit. Then I used some plastic epoxy inside the handle and on the new insert for extra help.

Put it all back together, cut off all but 1/8" or so of the nails. Put the handle in a vice and crimped the nails down to hold everything in place. Make sure you only catch the nails..

Reassemble the handle, reinstall in to the door with new rivets..



And you should never have to deal with this $!##$^%@# door handle breaking again! (this was #2 for me!)

BTW, this little tool here has become invaluable for working inside these doors and quite a bit else on these cars.




Took about 45 minutes to do. I've gotten good at working inside the doors..
I need to do this for my 97... anyway to revive the pictures???

My t-bird is fun to me... thats all that matters.
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 07:00 PM
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I need to do this for my 97... anyway to revive the pictures???
Original poster hasn't logged on for over 4 years.

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