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post #271 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 03:59 PM
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Does anyone know what this part is?



I'm guessing it doesn't have to be used and instead you can tap the opposite side 3 prong connector to the cars low, high and ground wires. Is that correct?
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post #272 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 04:13 PM
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I do not know what that is, mine doesn't have that. Mine had the 9007 harness plug which signals the control module for lights on low and lights on high beam, there's the ground wire, the +12V wire, leads for angel eyes, and lead to the angel eyes/high beam solenoid.

I've got a pic in post 79 on page 3.

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post #273 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 04:34 PM
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This little box goes from blue, white and brown on one side to 2 pos and neg white wires for low beam and 2 pos and neg blue wires for high beam. It must be something specific to the 9005/9006 kit I bought. I'll just cut the 9005/9006 connector off my blue, white and brown signal wires and tap them into the headlight harness. No big deal.

I would also suggest putting lots of dielectric grease on all the connectors and mount the ballasts so the wires face down.

I don't remember seeing it in any pics, but I'm guessing you guys cut a little notch where the projector mounts to run the ccfl and solenoid wires, right? That seems to be the easist solution along with siliconing them up.
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post #274 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 06:29 PM
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I've got a few pics of what I did in post 55, page 2. I had the back of the projector as high in the hole as I could get it to have the beam pointed down as far as possible before adjustment. I didn't have to cut any notches or anything; YMMV.

-Brandon
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post #275 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 11:45 PM
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I got both my harnesses installed today. I mounted the ballasts right behind the top crossmember, in front of the battery and airbox. The controllers are on the front side of the crossmember right behind the headlights. I just need a classy way to wire the positive cables. I'd like to run them into the fuse box some how.
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post #276 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-10-2010, 10:06 AM
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We will see how well their customer service is. I have almost three days of them working and then last night, no light on the passenger side. Not wet, no rain, power everywhere except to the light....ANGRY...ANGRY...ANGRY....

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #277 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-10-2010, 10:20 AM
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My guess is bad ballast. I had one go on me shortly after installation. Initial symptoms were bulb flickering, going out at random, then not coming on at all.

-Brandon
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post #278 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-10-2010, 10:23 AM
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How did you get a new one? I just e-mailed them through e-bay because I deleted the rest of them after I got the package.

BTW, did anyone else get 3 packs of LED dash lights with their package?

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #279 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-10-2010, 10:28 AM
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lol, yeah, I got LED dash lights with mine too, no idea what they were thrown in there for.

When my ballast died I inferred "shipping to China will be at least ten bucks" so I said "screw it" and just bought a new one for $20 from a US seller. YMMV...

-Brandon
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post #280 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-10-2010, 10:35 AM
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Got a link? I am going to make them pay for this because they were on for 3 days prior to it breaking. 3 DAYS? C'mon.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #281 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-10-2010, 10:59 AM
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Not the same seller, but it should work:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-R...item2eacb5dd8f

-Brandon
97 Laser Red Thunderbird LX 156k, Stage 2 4.6L 2v N/A | 300 BHP (255 RWHP, 290 RWTQ) | 13.95 @ 97.58 | Build details | Pics at the Lorain Assembly plant
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post #282 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 05:01 PM
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Arrggg! I can't get my headlights open! I heated them pretty good in the oven, but the glue was still gripping. Any suggestions before I cut them open?
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post #283 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 05:06 PM
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just keep trying to heat. i wouldnt cut them
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post #284 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 07:25 PM
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I've got a gas oven so it's hard to say how hot it actually is. I'll try setting the temp a tad higher.
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post #285 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 08:30 PM
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Ahhh, I finally got it. The oven heat allowed me to get one corner pried up and from there it was 2 screwdrivers and a heatgun. . That's the baddest sealant I've EVER seen.
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post #286 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 03:17 AM
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I popped the clips off my driver side headlight and the lens just fell off.

Needs more stall.
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post #287 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 10:18 AM
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Yeah, I did not even use heat for mine and they came off. Just pried them and off they came. I was going to have pix of my work up, but the ballast in one side is bad. I may just have the pix of the halos on soon.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #288 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-13-2010, 11:28 PM
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I'M gonna do a full writeup soon and try to hit a few points I haven't seen yet.

So far I've found a few weaknesses in these G1 kits.

First is that the red wire taps that come in the kit are not very good. I've had 2 of them come apart already and lose the electrical signal. I'm gonna replace all of them with either butt splices or better taps.

The kits white is low beam and blue is high beam.
The cars red is low beam and green is high beam.
So you want white to red and green to blue. Then grounds are the black and brown.


Second is that I found the black screws inside the projectors to be lose or very weak. These hold the metal shield/solenoid onto the reflector housing. I found some #4 sized bolts which are a tiny bit bigger in diameter and I'm tapping them into the holes so that they will tighten up and stay in place. And because Murphys Law is always hanging around, the bigger head on these screws require you to grind down the metal protrusions in the head of the projector so they will fit right. Why can't things be simpler? Uggg!



Note the grinding on the left and right side.

Last edited by JasonWW; 05-14-2010 at 12:50 AM.
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post #289 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 01:00 AM
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I used a flap disc on an angle grinder to flatten this bottom edge where it was touching the reflector housing.





This dropped the projector down a little making the housing fit more easily and it helps hold the projector into place more firmly.
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post #290 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 11:04 AM
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If that is the same kit I am dealing with, I am not happy with mine. I am still waiting for them to send me a replacement ballast. They wanted me to pay for shipping. They wanted a pic. They said I had to leave feedback to start my warranty. And the wiring in all of my connectors is falling out.

My reply was along the lines of this. 'I am not paying for shipping for something that is well within the warranty you have posted on your site. You can send me another ballast. I sent you a link showing the part that was bad. I am not leaving any feedback until this issue is reslolved'. I am not happy at all with this stuff. If I could find it in AT LEAST north america, I would have it over this chineese crap.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #291 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seawalkersee View Post
If that is the same kit I am dealing with, I am not happy with mine. I am still waiting for them to send me a replacement ballast. They wanted me to pay for shipping. They wanted a pic. They said I had to leave feedback to start my warranty. And the wiring in all of my connectors is falling out.

My reply was along the lines of this. 'I am not paying for shipping for something that is well within the warranty you have posted on your site. You can send me another ballast. I sent you a link showing the part that was bad. I am not leaving any feedback until this issue is reslolved'. I am not happy at all with this stuff. If I could find it in AT LEAST north america, I would have it over this chineese crap.

SWS
I want to grab a set of headlights from a 99+ cougar and pull the projectors out of them and see if I can fit them in these housings.

I also just picked up a cheap set of projector foglights that I'm gonna do my best to try and stuff into the inner-most light housings. they almost fit but it sure as hell won't be going back to stock.

If I can get them in there, I can buy some halos separately, and then a set of these projectors and put them in the main headlight housings.

Dual projectors

Rest In Peace Mom.
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post #292 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 07:27 PM
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If I could find it in AT LEAST north america, I would have it over this chineese crap.
I know it doesn't help you now, but I bought my Chinese G1 kit locally in Houston under the eBay seller Opera98. He had the kit without ballasts for $115. He carried 3 different ballasts as well. I asked him to give me the most reliable and he did for $30pr. Their full size, as the slim ballasts just aren't that good.

All of my electrical connectors seem to be good quality and work well, it's just the red taps that seem problematic.
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post #293 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 09:46 AM
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Still dealing with the company and an about at my limits. I have sent a ton of e-mails and the biggest problem is the lack of communication I think (hope). I could not understand why they wanted a pic of the bad part, and then wanted me to cut the wires on it. After several e-mails, I understood they wanted me to render it usless...so I did. That one went out this morning so I guess we shall see what next week (yet another with only one headlight) will bring.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #294 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 09:47 AM
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Anyone know where we can get replacement bulbs as I am SURE that will be my next feat to overcome.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #295 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 10:39 AM
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I've been in touch with the manufacturer since I bought my kit about bulbs and they keep telling me they're out of stock.

Did you say your kit was a 9006 kit? I ask because they say they are out of the 9007 bulbs, but I suspect the bulbs are identical with the only difference being the shape/size of that rubber boot thing.

-Brandon
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post #296 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 07:44 PM
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That one went out this morning so I guess we shall see what next week (yet another with only one headlight) will bring.

SWS
Are you really going around with one headlight? Why not spend $15 and get a new ballast locally and keep the warranty one as a spare.
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I've been in touch with the manufacturer since I bought my kit about bulbs and they keep telling me they're out of stock.

Did you say your kit was a 9006 kit? I ask because they say they are out of the 9007 bulbs, but I suspect the bulbs are identical with the only difference being the shape/size of that rubber boot thing.
The bulbs in the projectors are all the same shape. It's just differences in the wire harness that make one kit a 9006 and another kit a 9007, etc...

Last edited by JasonWW; 05-15-2010 at 07:49 PM.
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post #297 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 08:04 PM
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Well yes, but the bulbs receive an identical signal. From the ballasts to the bulbs the wiring would be identical. It's the interfacing of the control module and harnesses that distinguishes these between styles.

-Brandon
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post #298 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 04:11 AM
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Well yes, but the bulbs receive an identical signal. From the ballasts to the bulbs the wiring would be identical. It's the interfacing of the control module and harnesses that distinguishes these between styles.
Of course the bulbs get the same 30,000 volts AC or whatever it is. That's what is required for them to work. Even the control modules are the same. It's a universal kit only requiring a high, low and ground signal.

If they had required wire taps for the 3 signals, they could have made one kit with only the bulb temperature being the only option.

My 9005/9006 kit didn't even come with that sized bulb connector. It came with an old style 3 spade connector as seen in post 271 above.

I don't think it matters what bulb kit you buy, just get the bulb temperature you want and just cut off the connector on the blue, white and brown wires.

As a side note, my 6000 kit looks very white. I don't see any blue at all. I like it.

Last edited by JasonWW; 05-16-2010 at 04:41 AM.
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post #299 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 06:25 PM
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I know with the 91-95 Cougars you could use Grand Marquis housings, but is there any way yet to make the older Tbird lights projector friendly?

Needs more stall.
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post #300 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-17-2010, 02:38 AM
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... I suppose if worse comes to worst you could always sand down the spot where the beam punches through. Obviously it'd be irreversible though.

-Brandon
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