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post #241 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-04-2010, 10:03 AM
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Got mine last week. I will be installing one of them today (I dont have a pass side headlight yet) with my new header panel. What did you guys do for your power to the Halo?

For all of you who doubt, I hooked them up yesterday about noon and they were bright enough that I could see the light on my hood...I was sold as it was clear there, but I could barely see the regular light on my pant leg.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #242 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-04-2010, 11:49 PM
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Got one of them today and even found my other side (had one hiding) since I needed it after hitting a dog. So I have done something....different. I will post pix later.

Now, I have no brights. Had them earlier, but now there is nothing. I don't have the halo's hooked up and don't know if that is what the problem is. They worked earlier, but I can't remember if they were hooked up then.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #243 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 06:56 AM
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Check post 45 for the high beams solution.

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post #244 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 09:30 AM
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What plug are you talking about?. The main light harness? My kit came with only a wiring diagram and no instructions.

DID YOUR BRIGHTS WORK at first? Like when you were doing your tests? Mine worked, and now do not. I was however, unaware that they were side specific and the harness I had on the driver's side was for the pass side light. I swapped the harnesses yesterday and now the problem has started.

I can't think that it is not wired properly if it was working and now neither of them work.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #245 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 09:46 AM
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Initially the high beams were always on, unless I unplugged that small four-pin connector.

The plug that I referred to was the large three pin 9007 connector.

-Brandon
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post #246 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 11:51 AM
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Yeah....after reading it several times, I just went and looked at the connectors that had matching colors.

So, where did you get your power to use the Halos?

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #247 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 11:54 AM
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Me? They're unhooked. I busted the CCFL on one of the projectors while doing some grinding to make it fit which I later found wasn't necessary.

-Brandon
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post #248 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 01:58 PM
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so i know we talked about the whole reflector thing earlier in this thread, but if i understand this right the "r" bulbs are for reflector housings? so what in the housing allows for the sharp cutoff?
Not only do the "R" bulbs have some shielding on the bulb itself, but the reflector housing is designed to much higher tolerances.
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post #249 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 02:11 PM
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I'm thinking that the entire headlight can be tinted black with a small area left lighter around the projector. That would look killer on a black car.





Also, since Ebay links only last 2 or 3 months, can you guys tell us the name of the stores you bought from? I want to make sure I get the ones that will fit nicely. Thanks.

I know bsiebert got his from Auto Sky for $185.
Who got theirs from Kassabian9898 for $145?
Are they the same kit?


One more thing, has anyone compared the low and high beam?

Last edited by JasonWW; 05-05-2010 at 04:35 PM.
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post #250 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 06:28 PM
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What do you guys think about this set?

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...c585dc5f358a22

I was going through the posts and was wondering about these, Though i like the ebay one because of the angel eyes, I was hoping to get a less bulky projector, and from what I have read the Gatling gun shroud covers the entire projector in this set

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post #251 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 07:06 PM
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What do you guys think about this set?

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...c585dc5f358a22

I was going through the posts and was wondering about these, Though i like the ebay one because of the angel eyes, I was hoping to get a less bulky projector, and from what I have read the Gatling gun shroud covers the entire projector in this set
You'll have to cut out the back of the T bird housing to fit it.
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post #252 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 07:09 PM
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Getting back to the chinese units, here is a short vid showing the beam patterns. It looks great.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgLlKLDHTdE
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post #253 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 07:48 PM
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What do you guys think about this set?

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...c585dc5f358a22

I was going through the posts and was wondering about these, Though i like the ebay one because of the angel eyes, I was hoping to get a less bulky projector, and from what I have read the Gatling gun shroud covers the entire projector in this set
you can buy halos seperately I believe.

Rest In Peace Mom.
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post #254 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 09:08 PM
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I got mine from omg_so_cool_car. I paid $145 but they are now going for around $125.

-Brandon
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post #255 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-06-2010, 12:07 AM
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i was looking around to see If i could find some of those ebay ones

and i ran across these Don't think they would fit, I'm not sure it depends on the clearance of the china ones mentioned in this post Demensions of china ones


http://www.retrosolutionsllc.com/ser...HB1-HB5/Detail

The have two types

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post #256 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-06-2010, 12:47 AM
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It is so much better than the factory lights. I have to adjust them again because they were too high. Then, the adjuster pulled through the plastic piece and now the pass side is WAY too high. Have to take them apart again.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #257 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-06-2010, 12:48 AM
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I think I am going to just jump the wires from the inside parking lights an go from there. I have also tinted the lights...blue.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #258 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-06-2010, 07:57 AM
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Zero, the top one you showed a picture of is the type we have been using and the manufacturer refers to it as a "G1" projector. The bottom one is indeed too large; I got some info on that one from them a while back. I think I posted about it in post 159.

The cutoff for the beam pattern from left to right I'm finding more harsh every time I drive the car at night. I'm thinking about taking it out and grinding it down some to reduce the effect somewhat.

Again, the biggest single problem with this setup is the lack of availability of replacement bulbs. I'm still waiting on the manufacturer to contact me when they are "back in stock".

-Brandon
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post #259 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-06-2010, 08:20 AM
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Zero, the top one you showed a picture of is the type we have been using and the manufacturer refers to it as a "G1" projector.

Again, the biggest single problem with this setup is the lack of availability of replacement bulbs.
And the bulbs that come with the kit appear to be quite cheaply made. I found some info on a Toyota FJ website that is 6 to 7 months old and thier G1 bulbs somtimes were different colors or had a slight pinkish or greenish hue to them. Some bulbs even developed small bubbles inside the bulbs "combustion chamber" where the light is formed. (You know) Other bulbs would sometimes not turn on. So the bulbs definetly seem like a problem, but may be somewhat better now.

So I'm thinking about buying this kit myself because you can't get these small projectors anywhere else. I'm gonna test out my bulbs before installing, though. In fact, I may buy the G1 projector without the ballasts for under $100 and then buy new bulbs ($16pr) and ballasts ($34pr) from a more reputable company such as DDM or VVME.

I'll probably take an H1 bulb and modify it so that the light source sits in the same spot as the stock bulb.

Last edited by JasonWW; 05-06-2010 at 09:08 AM.
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post #260 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-06-2010, 09:26 AM
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I know you can modify the bases of other bulbs to fit, which is what I may end up doing. But you are definitely correct, there isn't a great amount of QC for the bulbs. Mine had a slight greenish hue to them initially but it has since mostly worn off. They've lasted me so far (since October)...

-Brandon
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post #261 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-06-2010, 10:31 AM
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Some bulbs even developed small bubbles inside the bulbs "combustion chamber" where the light is formed.
Arc Tube



I want a set of these, but on one hand they look good, and the way they are shaped fits into the housing and flows with it.

The other ones are more bell shaped and are opposite to the fit in the housing.

I'd love to find some way to blend a set of regular projectors into the housing.

Rest In Peace Mom.
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post #262 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-06-2010, 11:48 PM
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My drivers side is not as bright as the passenger side. The halo is also not as bright.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #263 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 01:28 PM
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My drivers side is not as bright as the passenger side. The halo is also not as bright.

SWS
Voltage issue?
Are you using a relay and are your grounds good?
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post #264 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 05:56 PM
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I found a place selling the G1 projector locally here in Houston with ballasts for $130. I'm gonna try and get them mon or tue. I've already polished up my stock lens. :-)

here's a nice video of these projectors in a lifted Tacoma truck. Beam width and cutoff look really good. He even got a blue cutoff line. (Note: You can usually alter the color of the cutoff line by bending the shield forward or backward a tiny bit.)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfIUT...=youtube_gdata


To the guys who have already bought them, was the projector sealed up or did it look like it could be disassembled?
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post #265 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 06:13 PM
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You can disassemble the projectors, they are held together with four torx screws.

-Brandon
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post #266 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 07:26 PM
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You can disassemble the projectors, they are held together with four torx screws.
Cool, I'm guessing no one here looked inside?
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post #267 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 07:28 PM
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I have had them apart a couple times. The front of the lens is pretty much unserviceable. There is a small solenoid hooked up to a lever that attaches to the "flap" that folds 90 degrees to open up the cutoff for high beams, and that's about it.

-Brandon
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post #268 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 09:04 PM
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Any pics?

That sounds a lot like my BMW projectors.


Is there any need for a delay circuit when the lights are set to come on automatically? I'm thinking they might strike up when the key is turned on, power off as the engine is cranking, then strike again once the engine is running. Idk, I'm just guessing.

Last edited by JasonWW; 05-07-2010 at 09:18 PM.
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post #269 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 09:18 PM
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I don't have any pics at the moment, I may grab some in the next few days. Not superbly similar to your picture, but there are some similarities. It's mostly a concave reflector with a steel plate at the front, then the lens bolts on over top.

-Brandon
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post #270 of 428 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010, 01:42 PM
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I picked up mine a couple hours ago. Here's the internal mechanism.



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