Headlight colors and the Kelvin Scale - TCCoA Forums

 
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Headlight colors and the Kelvin Scale

Quote:
Originally Posted by 96Darkstar4.6 View Post
My first two mods were: Knock off cobra wheels, hid kit 8000k
And when you get tired of not really being able to see at night, you'll fix those lights

Welcome!

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
And when you get tired of not really being able to see at night, you'll fix those lights

Welcome!

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uhh ok? i see fine with these hids? sooo tell me why i would need them fixed?

Taking time to build it right...
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 96Darkstar4.6 View Post
uhh ok? i see fine with these hids? sooo tell me why i would need them fixed?
8000K is rather high for human eyes.

4300K would be a better choice - you're paying for light you can't see at 8000K.

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012, 07:05 PM
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Exactly. 6000k is what I have in the T-bird's projectors and if ever I decide to replace them I'm going 4300k - which is what I put into the Mark VIII.

Quote:
Originally Posted by http://lumenshid.com/oe.html
Color Temperatures (K - Kelvins)

There is a general misconception that a higher K rating provides more light than a lower K rating with Xenon HID lights. The brightest light is actually at a pure white light without any additional colors. With Lumens Xenon HIDs, you would see pure white at 6000K. OE manufacturers choose a light at 4300K rather than 6000K. 4300K has a slight yellowish color (like the color halogen bulbs have). This is not the brightest color band for a clear night; 6000K would provide more visibility in this case. Unfortunately, pure white light does have its downfalls. Because of its intensity, white light (6000K) also refracts back at the driver the most when there are particles in the air (ie. rain, snow, and fog). A less refractive light would be more useful in these conditions; we find yellow (3000K) to be the most effective in these situations. For OE manufacturers, they try to give the medium which would be between the white and the yellow for overall driving conditions.

For HID conversions on vehicles for daily driving (especially vehicles with projectors), we recommend the colors between 4300K - 6000K. Any colors below or above this range will result in loss of light (amount of light lost will vary depending on the housing / projector). For fog light applications, we recommend 3000K for performance in rain, snow, and fog.

-Brandon
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-29-2012, 07:41 PM
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Anything beyond 6k is straight up obnoxious

89 Cougar XR-7...slightly modded, 240 rwhp / 340 rwtq, Best time as of 4/22/12 = 13.11 @ 103.82, 1.78 60'
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 12:54 AM
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I like the 8000k's I have in my s14. I can see better than the stockers, signs still reflect very nicely and I dig the blueish color (not too blue). I did have 6000k's when I bought the car. I prefer the 8's.

With any car... My first mod is a good alarm.

After alarm, the next major thing I do is suspension. Small mods I begin with include stereo, HID's, tint... But I always do suspension before adding power.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conversion02 View Post
Anything beyond 6k is straight up obnoxious
This.

-Matt
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Coleosis View Post
I like the 8000k's I have in my s14. I can see better than the stockers, signs still reflect very nicely and I dig the blueish color (not too blue). I did have 6000k's when I bought the car. I prefer the 8's.

With any car... My first mod is a good alarm.

After alarm, the next major thing I do is suspension. Small mods I begin with include stereo, HID's, tint... But I always do suspension before adding power.
Bluish. You ARE aware - oh, no, I bet you're not! - that BLUE is a BAD color for distinguishing things, right? The human eye isn't very efficient at blue.

Also, the blue rods are completely separate from the red and green rods in spectral sensitivity - but there's shades that hit both red and green (amazingly, 4300K is in the middle of the overlap ... Fancy that! Able to use 2/3 of the eye, not just 1/3, to see!)

But eh. "Looks good, don't care if I can see good" best describes folks who run 8000K lights.

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 07:29 AM
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I thought the lower the number, the more blue it was. 10000k is like super white, correct? So I seriously would be better off with a pair of 4300k bulbs?

-Rob
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 09:03 AM
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The higher the K, the bluer and eventually purple it gets.

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 09:18 AM
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Daylight (True white) is between 4000 and 6500K. With 5500K known as “high noon daylight.”

My headlights are 5,800K.

And yes, I'd also have to agree with the following statement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by conversion02 View Post
Anything beyond 6k is straight up obnoxious
Here's a color chart for visual reference.


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Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

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See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 07-30-2012 at 09:55 AM.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 09:54 AM
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Does anyone aim thrie headlights aftre putting in those dreaded blue lights?
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 10:10 AM
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I would hope that they would aim their headlights but I doubt they do. Simply changing bulbs shouldn't require re-aiming the lights because they should be aimed properly to begin with.

Here's a how-to article that Porkchop wrote about how to aim the headlights if you're interested.

How to adjust your headlights:

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 11:44 PM
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I have 5k and they're too blue for me. I think ANY shade of blue is stupid. As previously stated, blue is no good. Change all the light bulbs in your house to blue and tell me how much easier you can find things in the dark...

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

My T-bird is like George Jetson's wife, you try to give her a little money, she takes the whole wallet.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-31-2012, 05:37 AM
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I'll add that in 1996 the design of the headlights/header panel changed slightly but the 4mm socket/ratchet still applies for adjusting headlights.

And YES! Align your headlights, please!

There are fewer things I hate when driving down the road at night than people who blind me needlessly due to ignorance of having misaligned headlights -OR- headlights not aligned after a retrofit. Especially when driving in bad/rainy weather when it's hard enough for me to see without oncoming traffic.

-Brandon
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-18-2012, 07:31 PM
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The chart from Trunk Monkey also applies to photography...most digital cameras will adjust for the color of light automatically, but they usually have the ability to be adjusted for special situations or color effects. KF4sign (Warren)
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-18-2012, 11:40 PM
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I had 6000k HID headlights and fogs in my bird and refraction was never an issue and I could see about a mile away from my front end, oh how I miss them. But that's another upgrade on my list for my sc

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2012, 01:47 PM
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not to mention HID ballast's all can generate a BIT of a different color to the bulb.. I know the bulb has the color and all but I just witnessed this now that my headlights are both a shade off after I had a ballast go out... I went from a big metal box type to the thin plastic slim ballast on just one bulb. It know looks more blue than the other and I have 6000k

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 03:37 PM
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So this could be a dumb question. I am looking to do a light upgrade to my bird. How much better can you see with HIDs than an upgraded regular bulb like a silverstar ultra?A s always , thanks for your help.
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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So this could be a dumb question. I am looking to do a light upgrade to my bird. How much better can you see with HIDs than an upgraded regular bulb like a silverstar ultra?A s always , thanks for your help.
It depends.

If you just shove a HID bulb in and connect the ballast, a set of OSRAM SilverStar Ultras would do you better, since it matches the reflectors.

Of course, this DOES presume you've either replaced the headlights, or at least had them polished clear.

If not, DO THAT FIRST.

Make sure your headlights are clear.

Polish them and clear them up.

Did I mention, it's silly to try to boost the light output when your headlights are fogged over?

After that, try new OEM grade bulbs (GOOD ones, not the cheapass crap Harbor Freight sells - get good OSRAM bulbs if possible, Philips also, don't buy any house brand bulbs ... Hella makes some good ones also).

Also, before you do much else, try adding a nice relay harness to beef up the current / voltage to the bulbs. They aren't cheap, but they do pay back well on how much more light you can get out of factory bulbs.

A little observed fact is that halogen bulbs get dimmer with age - most bulbs are rated as 'dead' at the 50% output level. Just putting new quality OEM halogens in will help quite a bit, and if you polish and add a relay harness - you may get the best of both worlds!

THAT said - what year is your 'Bird? If it has the 9005/9006 headlights (Gen1), then you can also go for HIR bulbs. It's what I have for low beams on my Cougar with the GM headlamps, and I can see a mile marker 1 mile down the road (i.e., if I'm passing Mile Marker 28, I can see Mile Marker 29 - or at least, something there which turns out to be MM29 when I get close enough to read it!) That's worth considering.

You can find out more about HIRs at http://hirheadlights.com/ . Do check eBay and Amazon (especially Amazon!) for alternative vendors, though.

Due to how they work, there will never be a HIR for a dual-filament bulb like the 9007 later TBirds and 91+ Cougars have.

RwP
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 02:17 PM
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thanks for the info. my bird is a 94. i have new lenses, but hadnt thought of a relay harness , where might i get this?
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 03:21 PM
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Competition Limited sells them. That's where I got mine.

http://competitionlimited.com/

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 07:12 PM
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Competition Limited sells them. That's where I got mine.

http://competitionlimited.com/
thank you sir.
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-23-2014, 09:46 PM
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I polish the lenses when needed and I have been replacing halogen bulbs with Sylvania Xtra Vision bulbs when needed, in pairs keeping the remaining good one wrapped as a emergency spare. I know they aren't "blue" .... I absolutely despise the blue head light craze myself .... it's a gimmick. I also have no desire to blind on coming drivers or to have blindingly white light reflected back in the fogs we have. I also like to maintain some respectable service life.

A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 10:36 AM
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New idea for restoring headlights

This actually works, guys.


The sign painter's clear coat is fairly indestructible, and hasn't yellowed even now, and that's been almost a year.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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