The thing that makes the rivet fail is the lock mechanism itself.
All the lube is now crusty, and it isn't helping much, so it's harder to move, stuff breaks.
The only way to really fix it is to remove it and relubricate it.
Washing the old stuff out with WD40, soaking it in motor oil, then taking thin moly grease and working it into the mechanism
Think grease that will still work in 20 more years.
I use a big syringe with a long tip, and go between the plates/openings as deep as I can, and work the mechanism to distribute it.
This same procedure works on the Recline Lever/Mechanism in the seats.
And the seat tracks... And motor/gears... lol.
Public Service Warning:
Don't use brake parts cleaner, or similar, unless you're going to soak it in oil after; all it takes is one spot to start rusting, and it's never in a good place, lol.
I have heard Locally of someone doing this way back in a 70's Camaro by flushing it clean with brake parts cleaner, and spraying it with liquid wrench as a "preservative". (FTTMNK: It's an acid used to remove rusted bolts, not a lube)
They were unable to open the doors after it sat overnight, and they ended up replacing both doors.
I heard a slide hammer was used to remove the door locks from the inside.
Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.
I'm not Human enough to be human; but I'm trying to fit in, and I'm learning to fake it.
"Never said Hibbity..." - Brian Williams