Power Window Issue, Jammed closed, possibly track issue? - TCCoA Forums

 2Likes
  • 1 Post By Woodman
  • 1 Post By T6Rocket
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 18
Power Window Issue, Jammed closed, possibly track issue?

Hi, I got a 95 tbird lx, over the past few months I began noticing a issue rolling the driver side window down, it would start getting stuck coming down about 1/4 of the way, sometimes it would stop completely at that point and I would have to give it a little push down to get it going again, after this started, I would notice when the top of the glass would get to this area on the rollUP it would tilt foward slightly before coming back, like it might be hitting a bump, eventually it would intermittently get worse, one time I couldn't roll it up or down onceit got 1/4 the way down without a huge amount of banging and tugging on the window.

I was going to work on it, but I've been taking care of my very sick grandmother and have barely had time to breath, when the weather warmed up, it seemed to be fine, but last night the whole thing seemed to give up the ghost, it got jammed coming down again, this time it acted like it got hung up on two spots, 1/4 the way down and 3/4 the way down, and would tilt and bump on both spots on the way up, then when it rolled all the way up, I didn't immediately release the button and it made a very loud BRRRRRRRRRRT noise, (now this isn't the same noise as the gearbox going bad, cause I had that happened and replaced the motor about 8 years ago, and my pass side is making the rrrr rrr rrrr noise and not working) I was able to roll it down one more time and when I rolled it back up fully it just stopped, and apparently jammed up, now it's making no noise at all but the motor is pulling current judging by the amp gauge dropping and lights dimming whenever I try to roll it up or down.

Any ideas on what might have happened before I pull the panel again, I don't have much time to work with, but I gotta atleast use this window, signs seem to be pointing to something in the track jamming or broken.

Last edited by DigitalHorizons; 02-11-2017 at 07:49 AM.
DigitalHorizons is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 08:31 AM
3rd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 131
Driver side window lift motor on my 95 LX is acting up again, too. Replaced it two and a half years ago. Similarly, it's like it hits a bald spot on the plastic gear and the window stops halfway up or down and I have to assist it manually. I noticed long time ago that the door sort of flexes when the window hits the all the way up point, I think that's normal.

My guess is that your problem is only with the motor and not with the track, but it won't be evident until the door panel is off.

Until I replace the motor I'll stick my GPS mounting suction cup and bracket on the window to help it move up or down if needed.

Good luck with the repair.
Jim3inVirginia is offline  
post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 18
Thanks for the good luck, the window is completely stuck now tho, no amount of pulling or tugging is getting it to go down, and the window tilting foward and then back never happened till this started, not sure what I should be hopping for, a motor issue, or a track issue. Good luck on your repair when you get to it as well.
DigitalHorizons is offline  
 
post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 08:59 AM
3rd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina
Posts: 193
I've only had 96 & 97's but I assume the regulators are similar if not the same. I'd pull the window motor and then work the window by hand to see if it binds. On the bad of the door there is a section of track that inserts to the top track, this is inside the door from below the window opening to almost the base of the door. I've had the "L" bracket rust. Can't remember for sure, I believe it's riveted to the track and bolted to the inside of the door. I've also had the top of the door window frame bend very slightly and my windows would bind sometimes, I used to spray some clear silicon in the tracks once in a while to smooth things up and used Goo Gone to break up any debris. I think many people push the doors closed toward the top of the window frame, in that black trim area, and over ~20 years it bend enough to create pinch points for the window track. The motors have those plastic pins that are designed to break if a hand gets stuck in the window. Those pinch points would stress the breakaway pins till collapse.

I've used the follow to fix motors before:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/RWM4922283
Kidd-7 is offline  
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 09:59 AM
5th Gear Poster
 
gordonm1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Yakima, WA
Posts: 358
I don't know anything about car windows but one scenario I thought of was one window lifter arm was coming off and then it was binding the window in the track.

Mine are still working and some day I'll have to learn to take the door apart.

1992 Tbird LX 5.0, 3.73 gears, 1995 Cobra intake, deleted air silencer, 2.5" mandrel bent dual exhaust, SCP shorty headers. Updated four-hole fuel injectors. SK shift kit in AOD. Vogtland 0.9" springs, Tokico and Bilstein shocks.
gordonm1 is offline  
post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 11:28 AM
4th Gear Poster
 
Tbird Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 291
As KIDD-7 suggested, spray those tracks liberally with silicone. Before doing so, I blow them clean with air.

Do you realize you were just passed by a NASCAR? I didn't think so.
Tbird Bob is offline  
post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 18
Thanks for the advice, right now I'm trying to figure out why the motor is pulling current when I push the button up or down but it's not budging from being fully rolled up, and there's no noise, when those gears go, the whole thing starts making noise, like my passenger side, and the motor before I replaced the driver side several years ago, haven't been out to pull the door panel yet.
DigitalHorizons is offline  
post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 07:50 PM
3rd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina
Posts: 193
It'd be interesting to know that also. Possibly, the pins failed in such a way that bound up the motor.
Kidd-7 is offline  
post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 08:42 PM
PostWhore
 
Woodman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Duluth, MN
Age: 42
Posts: 1,542
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigitalHorizons View Post
Thanks for the advice, right now I'm trying to figure out why the motor is pulling current when I push the button up or down but it's not budging from being fully rolled up, and there's no noise, when those gears go, the whole thing starts making noise, like my passenger side, and the motor before I replaced the driver side several years ago, haven't been out to pull the door panel yet.
The window regulators (attached to the motor) on these cars have nylon pucks inside that break down over time. Both of mine in my car are failing. It's not horrible to pull them out, and you can get new nylon pucks at your local auto parts store in the HELP section.

There is a mod to use steel rod cut down instead of nylon, but the down side is if anyone sticks their arm/hand/head in the window as it's going up, the pucks will not break and someone will lose a hand/arm/suffocate.

There's a thread in here on rebuilding the regulator. I'd look into that first.
ogbird95 likes this.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
PI Swapped NPI motor with some port work on the heads, PI cams, 80mm MAF, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
Woodman is offline  
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kidd-7 View Post
It'd be interesting to know that also. Possibly, the pins failed in such a way that bound up the motor.
Geez, that was another worry, it's seems like a issue with the window track jamming over the past few months up finally caused the pins to fail and bind the motor. I think I remember it not having any issues at all during warm days, it's been real cold here. God, this is gonna be a mess financially and time wise.
DigitalHorizons is offline  
post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 05:31 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 18
Well, haven't had time to take apart the door yet, when I got in my tbird last night to go to my grandmother's I decided just to try rolling the window down, the day before nothing happened, but earlier in the day it was very warm, probably had nothing to do with this, but the window actually rolled down about 5 of the way and then wouldn't go any further, I then rolled it up and when it closed the motor made that loud BRRRT sound again. I tried rolling it down again, it worked, stop 1/5 the way down. Then I rolled it back up and it closed and didn't make a noise this time, but it wouldn't roll down anymore either, motor still draws current when button is pushed.
Can't wait to see what mess is inside the door when I pull off the panel.
DigitalHorizons is offline  
post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 07:39 AM
PostWhore
 
T6Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,152
It sounds like it's the nylon pucks as described above. They sell them at Advance, very cheap

Word of advice: if the window's all jacked up, STOP rolling it up and down to keep checking it until you have time to work on it! It's not going to suddenly fix itself, but you're going to fix it real good at this rate.

Al
Woodman likes this.

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 66k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 Crown Vic Police Interceptor - Brenda's car
Previous cars:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years
96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years
88 T-Bird 3.8 - first T-Bird, owned 5 years
T6Rocket is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome