Power Window Issue, Jammed closed, possibly track issue? - TCCoA Forums

 3Likes
  • 1 Post By Woodman
  • 1 Post By T6Rocket
  • 1 Post By DigitalHorizons
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 24
Power Window Issue, Jammed closed, possibly track issue?

Hi, I got a 95 tbird lx, over the past few months I began noticing a issue rolling the driver side window down, it would start getting stuck coming down about 1/4 of the way, sometimes it would stop completely at that point and I would have to give it a little push down to get it going again, after this started, I would notice when the top of the glass would get to this area on the rollUP it would tilt foward slightly before coming back, like it might be hitting a bump, eventually it would intermittently get worse, one time I couldn't roll it up or down onceit got 1/4 the way down without a huge amount of banging and tugging on the window.

I was going to work on it, but I've been taking care of my very sick grandmother and have barely had time to breath, when the weather warmed up, it seemed to be fine, but last night the whole thing seemed to give up the ghost, it got jammed coming down again, this time it acted like it got hung up on two spots, 1/4 the way down and 3/4 the way down, and would tilt and bump on both spots on the way up, then when it rolled all the way up, I didn't immediately release the button and it made a very loud BRRRRRRRRRRT noise, (now this isn't the same noise as the gearbox going bad, cause I had that happened and replaced the motor about 8 years ago, and my pass side is making the rrrr rrr rrrr noise and not working) I was able to roll it down one more time and when I rolled it back up fully it just stopped, and apparently jammed up, now it's making no noise at all but the motor is pulling current judging by the amp gauge dropping and lights dimming whenever I try to roll it up or down.

Any ideas on what might have happened before I pull the panel again, I don't have much time to work with, but I gotta atleast use this window, signs seem to be pointing to something in the track jamming or broken.

Last edited by DigitalHorizons; 02-11-2017 at 07:49 AM.
DigitalHorizons is offline  
post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 08:31 AM
3rd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 142
Driver side window lift motor on my 95 LX is acting up again, too. Replaced it two and a half years ago. Similarly, it's like it hits a bald spot on the plastic gear and the window stops halfway up or down and I have to assist it manually. I noticed long time ago that the door sort of flexes when the window hits the all the way up point, I think that's normal.

My guess is that your problem is only with the motor and not with the track, but it won't be evident until the door panel is off.

Until I replace the motor I'll stick my GPS mounting suction cup and bracket on the window to help it move up or down if needed.

Good luck with the repair.
Jim3inVirginia is offline  
post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 24
Thanks for the good luck, the window is completely stuck now tho, no amount of pulling or tugging is getting it to go down, and the window tilting foward and then back never happened till this started, not sure what I should be hopping for, a motor issue, or a track issue. Good luck on your repair when you get to it as well.
DigitalHorizons is offline  
post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 08:59 AM
4th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina
Posts: 208
I've only had 96 & 97's but I assume the regulators are similar if not the same. I'd pull the window motor and then work the window by hand to see if it binds. On the bad of the door there is a section of track that inserts to the top track, this is inside the door from below the window opening to almost the base of the door. I've had the "L" bracket rust. Can't remember for sure, I believe it's riveted to the track and bolted to the inside of the door. I've also had the top of the door window frame bend very slightly and my windows would bind sometimes, I used to spray some clear silicon in the tracks once in a while to smooth things up and used Goo Gone to break up any debris. I think many people push the doors closed toward the top of the window frame, in that black trim area, and over ~20 years it bend enough to create pinch points for the window track. The motors have those plastic pins that are designed to break if a hand gets stuck in the window. Those pinch points would stress the breakaway pins till collapse.

I've used the follow to fix motors before:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/RWM4922283
Kidd-7 is offline  
post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 09:59 AM
5th Gear Poster
 
gordonm1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Yakima, WA
Posts: 377
I don't know anything about car windows but one scenario I thought of was one window lifter arm was coming off and then it was binding the window in the track.

Mine are still working and some day I'll have to learn to take the door apart.

1992 Tbird LX 5.0, 3.73 gears, 1995 Cobra intake, deleted air silencer, 2.5" mandrel bent dual exhaust, SCP shorty headers. Updated four-hole fuel injectors. SK shift kit in AOD. Vogtland 0.9" springs, Tokico and Bilstein shocks.
gordonm1 is offline  
post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 11:28 AM
4th Gear Poster
 
Tbird Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 298
As KIDD-7 suggested, spray those tracks liberally with silicone. Before doing so, I blow them clean with air.

Do you realize you were just passed by a NASCAR? I didn't think so.
Tbird Bob is offline  
post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 24
Thanks for the advice, right now I'm trying to figure out why the motor is pulling current when I push the button up or down but it's not budging from being fully rolled up, and there's no noise, when those gears go, the whole thing starts making noise, like my passenger side, and the motor before I replaced the driver side several years ago, haven't been out to pull the door panel yet.
DigitalHorizons is offline  
post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 07:50 PM
4th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina
Posts: 208
It'd be interesting to know that also. Possibly, the pins failed in such a way that bound up the motor.
Kidd-7 is offline  
post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 08:42 PM
PostWhore
 
Woodman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Duluth, MN
Age: 42
Posts: 1,610
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigitalHorizons View Post
Thanks for the advice, right now I'm trying to figure out why the motor is pulling current when I push the button up or down but it's not budging from being fully rolled up, and there's no noise, when those gears go, the whole thing starts making noise, like my passenger side, and the motor before I replaced the driver side several years ago, haven't been out to pull the door panel yet.
The window regulators (attached to the motor) on these cars have nylon pucks inside that break down over time. Both of mine in my car are failing. It's not horrible to pull them out, and you can get new nylon pucks at your local auto parts store in the HELP section.

There is a mod to use steel rod cut down instead of nylon, but the down side is if anyone sticks their arm/hand/head in the window as it's going up, the pucks will not break and someone will lose a hand/arm/suffocate.

There's a thread in here on rebuilding the regulator. I'd look into that first.
ogbird95 likes this.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
Woodman is offline  
post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kidd-7 View Post
It'd be interesting to know that also. Possibly, the pins failed in such a way that bound up the motor.
Geez, that was another worry, it's seems like a issue with the window track jamming over the past few months up finally caused the pins to fail and bind the motor. I think I remember it not having any issues at all during warm days, it's been real cold here. God, this is gonna be a mess financially and time wise.
DigitalHorizons is offline  
post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 05:31 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 24
Well, haven't had time to take apart the door yet, when I got in my tbird last night to go to my grandmother's I decided just to try rolling the window down, the day before nothing happened, but earlier in the day it was very warm, probably had nothing to do with this, but the window actually rolled down about 5 of the way and then wouldn't go any further, I then rolled it up and when it closed the motor made that loud BRRRT sound again. I tried rolling it down again, it worked, stop 1/5 the way down. Then I rolled it back up and it closed and didn't make a noise this time, but it wouldn't roll down anymore either, motor still draws current when button is pushed.
Can't wait to see what mess is inside the door when I pull off the panel.
DigitalHorizons is offline  
post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 07:39 AM
PostWhore
 
T6Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,192
It sounds like it's the nylon pucks as described above. They sell them at Advance, very cheap

Word of advice: if the window's all jacked up, STOP rolling it up and down to keep checking it until you have time to work on it! It's not going to suddenly fix itself, but you're going to fix it real good at this rate.

Al
Woodman likes this.

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 68k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 Crown Vic Police Interceptor - Brenda's car
Previous cars:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years
96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years
88 T-Bird 3.8 - first T-Bird, owned 5 years
T6Rocket is offline  
post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 24
I'm back!

It's been a while, taking care of my disabled mom and grandmother has been a full time thing for months now. But I got a bit of a break, and I need to fix these power windows. I'm considering new window motors by AC Delco from RockAuto, because I have no interest or time to take apart the regulator and replace the pucks and I'll probably have to repair or clean at least one of the window's tracks. I'll just keep the broken ones to repair it. Is there any reason why I should go with Cardone or Dorman instead of AC Delco? I see remaned official Ford ones, but I'm not sure they are worth the extra money.
I was also wondering just how hard it would be to clean the tracks on the window mechanism if it's just really dirty with grit and not broken? I hadn't washed my baby in years, until summer of last year. Yes, I know it's terrible, but that's when the driver's window acted like it was getting jammed, like something I scrubbed out of the window weather stripping got into the tracks. I was planning on fully greasing the whole thing down with moly grease, something that would have a hard time washing out at least.
I'm gonna go about search for videos on how to repair and clean the window tracks and gliders, but if anyone has a YouTube url at their fingertips I'll take that as well. Hopefully I can breath some new life back into my Bird, it's gonna take a lot of time and effort tho. Wish me luck.

Last edited by Rodeo Joe; 04-29-2017 at 10:16 AM.
DigitalHorizons is offline  
post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 10:44 AM
3rd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 142
Last couple times I replaced motors I've used ACI brand from Advance. I use Rockauto for many parts but on this I didn't want to buy what I needed until I knew what was wrong. Once I bought a Motorcraft window lift motor from Rockauto and the wiring was reversed... pressing the button up made the window go down. Returned it and the replacement had the same problem. So went to my local parts store and bought store brand parts. I haven't found that name brand matters on window lift motors.

If it was me I would open up the door verify what's broken before ordering parts. Then go local or use expedited shipping if time is an issue. Probably both options are in the same price range.
Jim3inVirginia is offline  
post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 09:34 AM
PostWhore
 
T6Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,192
As far as lubing the tracks up, just roll down the window and spray the slot by the edge of the door that the window with silicone spray. Then roll the window up and down a few times. But that's not your problem, and is just a maintenance thing once you're done replacing the motors.

It's a shame you don't have time to take the motors apart and just replace the pucks. It adds like an hour or so to each side, plus the pucks cost like 5 bucks!

Make sure the motors are a good brand, I would get Motorcraft. Don't put an AC Delco part on a Ford!

Al

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 68k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 Crown Vic Police Interceptor - Brenda's car
Previous cars:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years
96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years
88 T-Bird 3.8 - first T-Bird, owned 5 years
T6Rocket is offline  
post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 24
I was considering going one step further and using moly grease instead of silicone spray, and I heard AC delco rebuilds motorcraft builds, I can only find rebuild official motorcraft parts and they're pretty pricey, now I'm not sure what to get cause I'm geting conflicting views, I know I'm not getting dorman and that's all the local part stores carry, the gearbox is nylon, the ones I see that are actual metal are motorcraft and acdelcos :/
Tbird Bob likes this.
DigitalHorizons is offline  
post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 01:31 AM
4th Gear Poster
 
Tbird Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 298
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigitalHorizons View Post
I was considering going one step further and using moly grease instead of silicone spray, and I heard AC delco rebuilds motorcraft builds, I can only find rebuild official motorcraft parts and they're pretty pricey, now I'm not sure what to get cause I'm geting conflicting views, I know I'm not getting dorman and that's all the local part stores carry, the gearbox is nylon, the ones I see that are actual metal are motorcraft and acdelcos :/
Good idea using the moly grease. My trusted ace mechanic said he heard using silicone spray will cause the lining in the window tracks to breakdown.

Do you realize you were just passed by a NASCAR? I didn't think so.
Tbird Bob is offline  
post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbird Bob View Post
Good idea using the moly grease. My trusted ace mechanic said he heard using silicone spray will cause the lining in the window tracks to breakdown.
There's a lining in the tracks? I just thought they were metal and the sliders were a type of durable plastic and then greased up.
DigitalHorizons is offline  
post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 07:46 AM
PostWhore
 
T6Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,192
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigitalHorizons View Post
I was considering going one step further and using moly grease instead of silicone spray, and I heard AC delco rebuilds motorcraft builds, I can only find rebuild official motorcraft parts and they're pretty pricey, now I'm not sure what to get cause I'm geting conflicting views, I know I'm not getting dorman and that's all the local part stores carry, the gearbox is nylon, the ones I see that are actual metal are motorcraft and acdelcos :/
WAY overthinking this, silicone is perfectly fine for the rubber slot that the window rides on. You also have two threads running on the same subject.

You can't keep asking a bunch of different mechanics about the same thing. You either need to trust us (we know these cars inside and out), or a mechanic with general knowledge about many cars.

Al

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 68k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 Crown Vic Police Interceptor - Brenda's car
Previous cars:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years
96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years
88 T-Bird 3.8 - first T-Bird, owned 5 years
T6Rocket is offline  
post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 08:28 AM
3rd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 142
I can appreciate procrastinating, I've done it before on big jobs and am currently doing it on an oil pan gasket job. But window motors are easy. If you are too apprehensive about doing the job yourself I bet there are well-qualified people at your local Ford dealership that could do the job for you.

Later,
Jim
Jim3inVirginia is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome