Window Regulator Bushing Replacement/Mod
If you can hear your window motor turning but the window does not move, then you probably need to replace your regulator bushings.
This is my take on using steel rather than plastic for these bushings. The process is the same for any of the options below with the modifications described. I have not had any issues with this, but I am not liable if you damage/destroy yourself or your stuff.
You will need:
This is what bad bushings look like:
You will need to remove the small c-clip on the top of the steel gear. Then pull straight up and remove the steel gear from the plastic gear. Remove the plastic gear from the housing.
Use your patience to remove all of the small bits of plastic and old grease. The plastic pieces can get stuck in the worm-gear so try to get it all out. I decided to pull the motor housing off to get at it better. I recommend you do NOT do that, because it is a HUGE pain to get back together correctly.
You will then need to cut the steel spacer into 3 roughly equal pieces about 1/2" long. I suppose you could just use 3/8"x1/2"x1/2" spacers if you can find them. I didn't explore that.
New plastic bushing versus new steel bushing (for comparison).
Now take your 3 steel bushings and set them in place in the white plastic gear. Then take the steel gear and set it in position in between the bushings. Mine was kinda tight, so I used the channel-locks to work it down until it was fully seated. If you do this, be careful to work it around evenly as to not break the white plastic gear. Take the assembled gears and apply a light coat of grease to the back side of the white gear, front side of the steel gear, and the teeth on both. Now drop them into the housing, making sure the teeth mate with the worm-gear correctly.
Re-install the c-clip on top of the steel gear. Re-install the gear cover and screws. Re-install the regulator into the door and enjoy not having to fix it again next year! :tongue:
If you can hear your window motor turning but the window does not move, then you probably need to replace your regulator bushings.
This is my take on using steel rather than plastic for these bushings. The process is the same for any of the options below with the modifications described. I have not had any issues with this, but I am not liable if you damage/destroy yourself or your stuff.
You will need:
- OEM Option: Dorman p/n# 74410 (1 pk per door)
- Nylon Option: Hillman p/n# 880435 (1/2"x.194"x1/2" nylon spacer) - (3 pc per door)
- Steel Option: Hillman p/n# 880418 (3/8"x1/2"x1-1/2" steel spacer) - (1 pc per door)
- Grinder/Dremel/hack saw (to cut the steel spacer)
- Sharp knife/razor blade (to trim the nylon spacer)
- Small flat screwdriver (to remove c-clip)
- Grease (I used marine wheel bearing grease.)
- Channel-lock
- Patience
This is what bad bushings look like:
You will need to remove the small c-clip on the top of the steel gear. Then pull straight up and remove the steel gear from the plastic gear. Remove the plastic gear from the housing.
Use your patience to remove all of the small bits of plastic and old grease. The plastic pieces can get stuck in the worm-gear so try to get it all out. I decided to pull the motor housing off to get at it better. I recommend you do NOT do that, because it is a HUGE pain to get back together correctly.
You will then need to cut the steel spacer into 3 roughly equal pieces about 1/2" long. I suppose you could just use 3/8"x1/2"x1/2" spacers if you can find them. I didn't explore that.
New plastic bushing versus new steel bushing (for comparison).
Now take your 3 steel bushings and set them in place in the white plastic gear. Then take the steel gear and set it in position in between the bushings. Mine was kinda tight, so I used the channel-locks to work it down until it was fully seated. If you do this, be careful to work it around evenly as to not break the white plastic gear. Take the assembled gears and apply a light coat of grease to the back side of the white gear, front side of the steel gear, and the teeth on both. Now drop them into the housing, making sure the teeth mate with the worm-gear correctly.
Re-install the c-clip on top of the steel gear. Re-install the gear cover and screws. Re-install the regulator into the door and enjoy not having to fix it again next year! :tongue: