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post #91 of 176 (permalink) Old 02-18-2007, 02:42 PM
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ok.......problem solved...........new amps...........2ohm stable...........

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K&N Intake and Flowmaster Exhaust
1995 Lincoln Mark VIII
hollow front cats, 3rd cat still there, no resonator, replaced by a single 40 series flowmaster, 2 3"x18" tips out back. screamin demon coil packs, mallory pro wires, motorcraft platinum plugs. intake resonator delete.
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post #92 of 176 (permalink) Old 02-24-2007, 06:00 PM
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this is it.....sounds great. who says alpine type s isn't good???

1994 Chevrolet Camaro Z28
LT1 350
K&N Intake and Flowmaster Exhaust
1995 Lincoln Mark VIII
hollow front cats, 3rd cat still there, no resonator, replaced by a single 40 series flowmaster, 2 3"x18" tips out back. screamin demon coil packs, mallory pro wires, motorcraft platinum plugs. intake resonator delete.
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post #93 of 176 (permalink) Old 03-10-2007, 03:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnYrMrk View Post
Personally, I would use the amp on the components up front, and use the head unit to power the rear speakers. You only want rear speakers for fill anyway, unless you plan on jamming at full volume at all times, but even then, put the more powerful amp on the front stage and leave the lower power to the rear speakers.

Think of a concert...your music is in front of you, not behind you. So keep that with the same idea and use it in the car. Hope that helps.

Joe
well its easier to do the opposite so i am running 1 of my pyramid amps w/ the alpine 5x7's in back...... sounds great.....these crap amps are good for something!!!

1994 Chevrolet Camaro Z28
LT1 350
K&N Intake and Flowmaster Exhaust
1995 Lincoln Mark VIII
hollow front cats, 3rd cat still there, no resonator, replaced by a single 40 series flowmaster, 2 3"x18" tips out back. screamin demon coil packs, mallory pro wires, motorcraft platinum plugs. intake resonator delete.
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post #94 of 176 (permalink) Old 10-04-2007, 12:39 PM
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Ha Ha too funny........ some ppl should never give advice...lmao..........
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post #95 of 176 (permalink) Old 10-04-2007, 01:57 PM
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haha, he's since changed his system.

BTW... Type X FTW!!

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post #96 of 176 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 02:28 PM
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type arrrrrrrggggg ftw too!!!!! but 2nd to the x's........ftl......
right now the set up is 1 type r 12 on an alpine 400w mono amp @ 2ohms in a slot ported box.
the system in pic above sounded incredible though.......now 2 of the type s 12"s are pounding in my house.

1994 Chevrolet Camaro Z28
LT1 350
K&N Intake and Flowmaster Exhaust
1995 Lincoln Mark VIII
hollow front cats, 3rd cat still there, no resonator, replaced by a single 40 series flowmaster, 2 3"x18" tips out back. screamin demon coil packs, mallory pro wires, motorcraft platinum plugs. intake resonator delete.
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post #97 of 176 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mybird_91 View Post
type arrrrrrrggggg ftw too!!!!! but 2nd to the x's........ftl......
right now the set up is 1 type r 12 on an alpine 400w mono amp @ 2ohms in a slot ported box.
the system in pic above sounded incredible though.......now 2 of the type s 12"s are pounding in my house.

kicker solo x 18s
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post #98 of 176 (permalink) Old 11-22-2007, 10:02 PM
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wow, this was very entertaining! Systems come down to one thing, sound. If you like the sound you are getting, then thats all you need. I myself am running a 15" Memphis M3 in a vented box, with a 100x2 (rms rating) Street Edge(memphis low end) amp. Last i had it mic'd. it was at 142 DB's. Im not even at half power. Memphis is good stuff, but there are lots of other good brands out there. A friend of mine has a 91 Grand am 2 door, back seat was took out, wall built. houses 8 Diamond Audio D6 10s, the amp he uses is a Memphis, 4000 watts RMS if i remember correctly. That thing absolutley pounds. And to the guy who said someone was complaining about their CD player skippin with to JL W7s, sounds like it was a crappy install, or a sh!t cd player, my friends system, will outdo that by far, and has no problems with his cd player skiping, nor do i at 142 DBs, its about quality, not quanity. But as i stated before, if you like what your gettin go with it, but dont be like my audiobahns are bad@ss, or any other of those crap companies, if you have something respectful, brag, if not, keep your mouth shut.
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post #99 of 176 (permalink) Old 11-23-2007, 02:05 AM
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i got 2 xxx 15s in my bird with a 10 cu ft^3 box @32hz with the spare tire well glassed and 130 sq in of port area powered by an orion 2500d at half ohm, weights in at about 420lbs added to the rear end, i'll be yanking it out soon and if anyone wants i'll sell the spare tire fiberglass mold for $300 shipped. Its 7 layers thick solid black, LMK via PM if anyones interested or email me

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post #100 of 176 (permalink) Old 11-23-2007, 07:55 AM
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i got 2 xxx 15s in my bird with a 10 cu ft^3 box @32hz with the spare tire well glassed and 130 sq in of port area powered by an orion 2500d at half ohm, weights in at about 420lbs added to the rear end, i'll be yanking it out soon and if anyone wants i'll sell the spare tire fiberglass mold for $300 shipped. Its 7 layers thick solid black, LMK via PM if anyones interested or email me
i'd like to see some pics of this man, been thinkin 2 15's wouldnt fit...

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post #101 of 176 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 11:11 AM
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update..........
2 type r 1242d's and mrp m450
1 type r 1242d waiting to go in when i get a 3 sub box and lanzar opti2000d.

[edit:system in now is 2 type r 1242d's on a sundown audio saz 1500d @ 1 ohm.]

1994 Chevrolet Camaro Z28
LT1 350
K&N Intake and Flowmaster Exhaust
1995 Lincoln Mark VIII
hollow front cats, 3rd cat still there, no resonator, replaced by a single 40 series flowmaster, 2 3"x18" tips out back. screamin demon coil packs, mallory pro wires, motorcraft platinum plugs. intake resonator delete.

Last edited by mybird_91; 01-26-2008 at 11:43 PM.
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post #102 of 176 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 10:36 AM
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so here it is......... 2 swr1242d's, saz 1500d, 1/0 power/ground, 1.49 cu. ft. per chamber vented box.


1994 Chevrolet Camaro Z28
LT1 350
K&N Intake and Flowmaster Exhaust
1995 Lincoln Mark VIII
hollow front cats, 3rd cat still there, no resonator, replaced by a single 40 series flowmaster, 2 3"x18" tips out back. screamin demon coil packs, mallory pro wires, motorcraft platinum plugs. intake resonator delete.
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post #103 of 176 (permalink) Old 04-28-2008, 08:59 PM
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Now that first sub is freakin crazy, but the RE xxx I have seen them do way more we had 12 in a hummer h1 at Shades in Hewitt and well lets just say they hit hard any way they 4 caught on fire 8 months later the owner laughed and was ready to have more put in. We had to run 3 alternators on this bad boy wow. Any way that was cool I like that first one alot. But for our cars that is way too much in my honest and professional opinion 12s are too much for are cars I am going back to tens soon I have to little trunk space.


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LMAO

wont blow away THIS ONE

or THIS ONE

or THIS ONE


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post #104 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 08:31 AM
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I was just reading some of the posts in this thread I cannot believe the stuff I am reading Pyramid, lol that is horrible your better off using a head unit to power your mids and highs, now for subs as long as your using pyramid products your gonna hit hard if you match it correctly but you have horrible sound quality, and frequency response. They are junk, when we get those from people and even some pioneers, sonys, fosgate and cheaper subs. Me and my buddy take them and hook them up to an a/c wall plug and watch em blow. It normally doesnt last more than 3-8 seconds and if you think about that, that is distortion at the max. We had a surround come off of an L-7 so before it got sent off to kicker we killed it good, it took almost 2 minutes, a treo 18" took 4 minutes and a mtx 9500 took 4 1/2 minutes. You need to be looking at quality not quantity. You can still buy cheap and get quality, also Pioneer premier is great just over priced, but legacy rockwood and pyramid lol what a joke. My friend was trying to run his door speakers on a pyramid 4 channel and my pioneer radio made my type R 6x8s sound way better than his mb quarts, when he finally realized I knew what I was talking about he bought a memphis 4 channel and was very impressed, now of course I only run memphis in my cars for amps. I have 2 memphis belles with the 4 channel and a 1000d sub amp in it well guess what I paid less than 500 for both shipped to the house they work perfectly and I have been jamming them for a year now. If you look around you can get quality for less. I also have higher amperage alternators on both amps optima batteries. I also run 1 farad cap and I have line drivers that boost the signal from 4 volts to 9 volts I have the wonderful bass cube from Phoenix gold and that is sweet makes a noticeable difference. Quit junking up your cars with cheap junk you will be replacing in less than a year get quality and be happy with it for more than a year you will save money in the long run. Think of it like this when buying the cheap stuff its like going to ebay and buy the so called chip that gives you 15 hp and its just a 10 cent resistor, or the junk ass electric fan that is supposed to "supercharge" your car. If that stuff came to me and you bragged to me or any of my installers that I worked like you have been doing in these threads we would congratulate you if it sounded decent, but if it was trash we would laugh at you in your face and turn one of our systems on and make you cry, in fact my wifes system would make most of your systems run and hide but if mine doesnt hit hard enough, my best friend has 2 treo 18s on 2400 watts and guess what uh oh uh oh its not sony or pyramid lol its run by a real amp U.S. amps check it out they are mainly made custom, if thats too much I have 2 other friends right in between mine and the treos using mtx elite and kicker sx not zx. Any way quit wasting your money buy something quality so you can be happy and quit buying more subs to fill in the gaps.

Got the only bird with Lambo Doors in Texas!
Thanks Luke!
97 Thunderbird 4.6
1992 Merc. Cougar 5.0
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post #105 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 01:19 PM
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Let me add this its sound like I am being really cocky and mean I just want to clarify that if you like your system and are happy with it good I am glad you do but seriously do the research I am not saying my system is the best way to go or anything like that because there is stuff that is even way better than the products I have talked about. I just focus on that because it is affordable and great quality, now with pyramid that stuff is pretty low end it get the job done but for how long. Sony is great stuff for starters and if put together right sounds awesome. Pioneer puts some good low end mids and highs, awesome headunits but some of the worst subs and amps come from pioneer, pioneers premier series is good stuff though. I just wanted to clarify all of this so you didnt think I was just bashing every brand and say my stuff rules all because that RE XXX is way better than what I got.


Quote:
Originally Posted by sloth92 View Post
I was just reading some of the posts in this thread I cannot believe the stuff I am reading Pyramid, lol that is horrible your better off using a head unit to power your mids and highs, now for subs as long as your using pyramid products your gonna hit hard if you match it correctly but you have horrible sound quality, and frequency response. They are junk, when we get those from people and even some pioneers, sonys, fosgate and cheaper subs. Me and my buddy take them and hook them up to an a/c wall plug and watch em blow. It normally doesnt last more than 3-8 seconds and if you think about that, that is distortion at the max. We had a surround come off of an L-7 so before it got sent off to kicker we killed it good, it took almost 2 minutes, a treo 18" took 4 minutes and a mtx 9500 took 4 1/2 minutes. You need to be looking at quality not quantity. You can still buy cheap and get quality, also Pioneer premier is great just over priced, but legacy rockwood and pyramid lol what a joke. My friend was trying to run his door speakers on a pyramid 4 channel and my pioneer radio made my type R 6x8s sound way better than his mb quarts, when he finally realized I knew what I was talking about he bought a memphis 4 channel and was very impressed, now of course I only run memphis in my cars for amps. I have 2 memphis belles with the 4 channel and a 1000d sub amp in it well guess what I paid less than 500 for both shipped to the house they work perfectly and I have been jamming them for a year now. If you look around you can get quality for less. I also have higher amperage alternators on both amps optima batteries. I also run 1 farad cap and I have line drivers that boost the signal from 4 volts to 9 volts I have the wonderful bass cube from Phoenix gold and that is sweet makes a noticeable difference. Quit junking up your cars with cheap junk you will be replacing in less than a year get quality and be happy with it for more than a year you will save money in the long run. Think of it like this when buying the cheap stuff its like going to ebay and buy the so called chip that gives you 15 hp and its just a 10 cent resistor, or the junk ass electric fan that is supposed to "supercharge" your car. If that stuff came to me and you bragged to me or any of my installers that I worked like you have been doing in these threads we would congratulate you if it sounded decent, but if it was trash we would laugh at you in your face and turn one of our systems on and make you cry, in fact my wifes system would make most of your systems run and hide but if mine doesnt hit hard enough, my best friend has 2 treo 18s on 2400 watts and guess what uh oh uh oh its not sony or pyramid lol its run by a real amp U.S. amps check it out they are mainly made custom, if thats too much I have 2 other friends right in between mine and the treos using mtx elite and kicker sx not zx. Any way quit wasting your money buy something quality so you can be happy and quit buying more subs to fill in the gaps.

Got the only bird with Lambo Doors in Texas!
Thanks Luke!
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post #106 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 01:39 PM
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why do you have a cap? what do you think it helps with? and what HU do you have to need a line driver?

just curious, not trying to be an ass.

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post #107 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 02:28 PM
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Here is/was my old system.





I know run all the same stuff in my 73 Bird.

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rest in peace JL
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post #108 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 02:30 PM
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i've seen that on here before. very clean install

any pics of it in the '73?

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post #109 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 02:33 PM
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i've seen that on here before. very clean install

any pics of it in the '73?
you know, no...not yet.
If I remember, I'll snap some later today....
Hell, I might take a video of it playing, and see how distorted it sounds......

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post #110 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 02:46 PM
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A cap works as a noise suppressor and a quick release of energy for the low frequency bass notes. A capacitor stores energy needed for stereo systems because the battery cannot release the power quick enough for some of the music played through the subs. It also helps take some strain from your alternator but not alot. Mainly it allows your subs to hit longer and lower notes.

The line drivers just jump the voltage from your rca outputs any where from 1volt to 10volts some will do 12volts. This allows you to split rcas for multiple amps, it also helps keep distortion out of your system the higher the voltage the less distortion. These also allow your amp to run more efficiently you dont have to turn the gain up as much so thats why less distortion. It actually does the boosting for the amp. I love them and the next on my list to get is a good sound processor.


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why do you have a cap? what do you think it helps with? and what HU do you have to need a line driver?

just curious, not trying to be an ass.

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post #111 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 02:47 PM
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i had a 78 before the 94. had 2 kenwood 15" house subs in it on a old school 300w pyramid. it was ****ty but it hit hard

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post #112 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-05-2008, 09:34 PM
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I hope that nobody thinks that I really like rockford fosgate because I recommend them but in reality I don't. I just like to use the cheapest of the punch series because when paired with a low wattage amp they actually hit pretty hard and still sound clean. When on a tight budget I prefer to spend $60-90 on a 15" and then spend some real money on a kicker amp. Then when its affordable buy a kicker sub. I may sound like a kicker fanboy but I just like how they are probably the cheapest of the higher quality brands. When money allows I could recommend brands that I'm sure 99% of people here have never heard of. Brands that would knock your socks off after the price knocks them off first.

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post #113 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-06-2008, 10:07 AM
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I hope that nobody thinks that I really like rockford fosgate because I recommend them but in reality I don't. I just like to use the cheapest of the punch series because when paired with a low wattage amp they actually hit pretty hard and still sound clean. When on a tight budget I prefer to spend $60-90 on a 15" and then spend some real money on a kicker amp. Then when its affordable buy a kicker sub. I may sound like a kicker fanboy but I just like how they are probably the cheapest of the higher quality brands. When money allows I could recommend brands that I'm sure 99% of people here have never heard of. Brands that would knock your socks off after the price knocks them off first.
feel free to name the one's ive never heard of. i bet i have

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post #114 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-06-2008, 11:31 PM
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feel free to name the one's ive never heard of. i bet i have
You, my friend, is part of that 1%! I'm sure you can name a few I haven't heard of but that's because I've been out of the game for a few years.

-Randy-
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post #115 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-23-2008, 05:44 PM
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i got to kicker cvr 12s and they hold 1100 watts apeace and a boss 3000 watt amp and i was wodering what would the specs be for a 3rd 12 same kind i want to build a box 4 3 of them to fit in my 96 cougar once i get it bck up and running
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post #116 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-23-2008, 08:42 PM
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b_caulk....try English. It works wonders in helping people understand you. Don't use internet chat abbreviations.

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post #117 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 12:16 AM
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b_caulk....try English. It works wonders in helping people understand you. Don't use internet chat abbreviations.
will do
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post #118 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 02:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sloth92 View Post
A cap works as a noise suppressor and a quick release of energy for the low frequency bass notes. A capacitor stores energy needed for stereo systems because the battery cannot release the power quick enough for some of the music played through the subs. It also helps take some strain from your alternator but not alot. Mainly it allows your subs to hit longer and lower notes.

The line drivers just jump the voltage from your rca outputs any where from 1volt to 10volts some will do 12volts. This allows you to split rcas for multiple amps, it also helps keep distortion out of your system the higher the voltage the less distortion. These also allow your amp to run more efficiently you dont have to turn the gain up as much so thats why less distortion. It actually does the boosting for the amp. I love them and the next on my list to get is a good sound processor.
guess again Einstein
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post #119 of 176 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 09:18 AM
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guess again Einstein
well, a cap can release energy MUCH faster than a battery. I don't know if a battery is incapable of releasing energy at the speed an amp would require at times though.

to sloth92: a cap adds MORE strain to an alternator. It is one more item for the alt to charge. It can smooth out the strain on the alt though, which is why many see an improvement. (I think, correct me if I'm wrong.) Most of the time though, more improvement would be seen with a bigger alt, rather than a cap or second battery.


also what does everyone think of the 10" MTX Thunder 4500s (http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...hunder4500.cfm , T4510-04)

that's what I have in my car, and it sounds great to me! I just wanna know what everyone else thinks. FYI, they're powered by a Phoenix Gold Xenon 400.1 Amp (the older, higher quality line, not the newer crap they make)

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Posts: 11,922
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while it is true that a cap can discharge much faster than the battery, what almost everyone fails to realize is that the cap is in parallel with the alternator and the battery, and regardless if you see 14.x volts at the battery, the actual voltage stored IN the battery is still 12.6V....it will not and cannot discharge before the alternator has completely thrown in the white towel..........the 14.x volts you see, is coming strictly from the alternator....and power ALWAYS comes from the source of highest potential, until either the steady-state or instantaneous current supply becomes depleted

a cap can only really help when the instantaneous current demand exceeds the alternator's transient capability, and even then immediately afterwards it becomes an additional load on the charging system.....and even then, this is at the mercy of the cap's internal ESR......even the best caps can only discharge 12.5% of the total Joules stored in them, regardless of what capacitance rating they are!......why only 12.5%????.....well take the 14.4V that the cap is at before a musical transient, and subtract 12.5%....you get what, 12.6V ......just so happens the battery is just sitting there at 12.6V with tons of amperage just waiting to discharge.........so now that the voltage has dipped to 12.6V because the alternator cannot supply enough instantaneous current, power has to either come from the battery, capacitor, or both.....well a cap can discharge faster than a battery right, so it has to come from the cap......not always!....now it becomes a fight between the cap and the battery, and more power will start to flow into the circuit from the one with the lower ESR, because this is not a straight short from a positive-to-negative terminal.......so even if you have a 5 gigafarad capacitor, and it can discharge on its own in a microsecond, too high of an ESR will render it useless once you get down into the sub-12.6V range, because a good quality battery will be more than happy to supply lots of amperage at a lower ESR than your 5 gigafarad Ebay cap

thanks kids...that will be all...enjoy your summer now that school is out

Last edited by guitar maestro; 05-26-2008 at 07:37 PM.
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