next on the agenda: project over-drive alternator - Page 2 - TCCoA Forums

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post #31 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-08-2005, 11:55 PM
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unless you can outsource ultra-high-speed bearings like the ones American Armature uses in their alternators for police cars, whose alternators are rated for ultra-high amperage AND very high rotor speeds encountered during turning high RPMs at the crank like during police chases and what not
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post #32 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-09-2005, 12:31 AM
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Doesn't the voltage regulator compensate for too much voltage?

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post #33 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-09-2005, 12:46 AM
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yes it does.....the smaller pulley doesn't make the alternator put out more voltage really.........the voltage wont go up past the limits of the voltage regulator, no matter how fast you spin the alternator......if the alternator is under load, and the voltage is less than 14.7ish volts, it will go up because there is extra amperage capacity.....voltage drop is proportional to the quantity: instantaneous_amperage_draw/instantaneous_amperage available.........provide extra amperage availability, and there will be less voltage drop for a given power consumption.....the total instantaneous voltage drop across the alternator looks something like this:

voltage_drop= [unloaded_voltage - battery_voltage]*[instantaneous_amperage_draw/instantaneous_amperage_available].......if the instantaneous_amperage_draw is greater than the instantaneous_amperage_available, then the formula is not necessarily valid, since current will start to come from the battery sitting at ~12.6V....how much it drops beyond that depends on the current capacity of the battery and it's internal resistance......for continuous current draw situations, instantaneous values may be replaced with steady-state values

this is one reason it is not suggested to use the single-speed high-power Mark VIII fan with standard relay-type switching.....the instantaneous demand of 80+ amps of current at low cruising speeds will surely drain anything and everything the alternator has available, leading to future alternator damage.....yet, once the fan gets to speed, the charging system can keep up with a 30A-40A current draw, and the voltage drop wont be as much as when it initially kicked in

the closer and closer you are to the upper limits of the voltage regulator, the less the "increase" in voltage you will see in the charging system

Last edited by guitar maestro; 11-09-2005 at 01:11 AM.
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post #34 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-09-2005, 01:24 AM
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I told lonnie I had underdrive pulleys when he tuned my chip. Haven't had charging problems since, I think he raised the idle ever so slightly but I could be wrong.

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post #35 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-09-2005, 01:51 AM
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that's a different scenario.....when you put on underdrive pullies, the alternator sometimes doesn't spin fast enough to reach the RPM cut-in speed that the engineers designed it for.......below this speed, the alternator cannot charge......the alternator's charging ability is RPM-dependent.....if an alternator's cut-in speed was reduced to accomodate an underdrive pulley, its entire power-band would be shifted down, and charging capability would be reduced

raising the idle on the tune, simply made sure your alternator is at or above the cut-in speed when the engine is idling in gear, when the engine RPMs are lowest
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post #36 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-01-2006, 02:22 PM
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better late than never here was my overdrive pulley



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post #37 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-17-2006, 04:43 PM
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post #38 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-17-2006, 08:09 PM
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go buy an alternator only threaded nut that is about 1.5" long and put it on a lathe and mill down a "collar" that will fit inside the pulley and wrench it from the ouside in front.

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post #39 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-01-2007, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAGGED89 View Post
go buy an alternator only threaded nut that is about 1.5" long and put it on a lathe and mill down a "collar" that will fit inside the pulley and wrench it from the ouside in front.
how would you ever get it off? the pulley, if you needed to?

has anyone found a direct replacement pully i can just buy and slap on there? i need more juice! i normally push the gas so the idle is 800rpm so the voltage goes up the the M on NORM. i like how the ac pushes harder and i know my bat isnt being drained while at a stoplight, i have subs, ac, lights, electric fan thats alota amps at 600rpm. so i kick it up a knotch, bam.

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post #40 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-08-2007, 10:11 PM
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You know you could go to Excessive Amperage and get a high amp alternator!

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post #41 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 11:26 PM
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the alternator makes plenty of juice, just not at 600rpm
i usually push the gas ever so slightly to about 800rpm so the volt meter goes up a bit to the top of norm again. its not a big deal i would just like to be able to sit at a stop light and have my radio on, headlights, ac, blinker and not have to look at the voltage gauge sit at below norm and just watch as my battery is drained and not recharged (i drive short distances normally)

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post #42 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-05-2009, 01:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnYrMrk View Post
You know you could get a high amp alternator!
Just keep in mind that some high output alternators produce lower output at idle in order to gain higher output at higher rpms. The better companies will dyno their alternators and show you the amps it produces from 600rpm to 3,000+. Different people have different needs.
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post #43 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-05-2009, 04:03 AM
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2.5 year thread revival. Im impressed.

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post #44 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 12:30 PM
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Since it is 2010 and I just noticed this thread, let me mention my overdriving my 200 amp rebuilt alt experience. I ordered a pulley online and installed it with a small washer I made. It was all good. The gauge was more like where I would want it to be. I was running stock pulleys by the way. Then one day out in the middle of nowhere I started smelling burning electronics. I opened the hood and my alt was smoking with black plastic pieces and solder dripping out of it. I unhooked the wires to the alt and luckily had enough juice to start it up and drive 15 miles home. I have been running a 93 Mark alternator ever since. My 200 amp alternator cost me $200 and was just out of warranty Note to self: only use an alternator overdrive pulley on a car that has underdrives.
-Rob

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post #45 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 04:35 PM
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So Rob, how did you connect the overheating to the underdrive pulley? Maybe the alt company used an inferior voltage regulator or rectifier that could barely handle the output and the smaller pulley worked it a bit harder and those inferior parts gave out?

You seem to be into performance with your car. What's the upper rpm range it sees?

Also, how much smaller of a pulley did you use?
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post #46 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-16-2010, 12:38 PM
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Wow time flies. I didnt even know this thread was updated. The pulley I used is close to 1/2" smaller in diameter than the stock pulley. The smaller pulley makes my bearings run at a higher speed all the time. I have still not taken the thing apart, but I know the overdrive pulley is what put the nail in the coffin. You are right though about some parts possibly being inferior. I got it built at a small shop in Waco. My upper RPM limit is probably however much I can get before the computer makes it shift I would guess around 6k crank RPMs.

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