TCCoA Forums - View Single Post - Staggered Wheels, Sway Bars, and Oversteer

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
CDsDontBurn's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Banning, CA
Age: 33
Posts: 1,512
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Actually it's the opposite, narrower front tires and fatter rears induce UNDERsteer. Think about it, you'd have more grip on the drive wheels than the steered wheels. That's a very odd tire staggering, seldom used for handling unless it's an old school Porsche 911 Turbo (a naturally tailhappy design)

Having said that I disagree with the go to answer regardless because sway bars are not the proper answer for heavy handed handling changes because they A. make the suspensions behave more like solid axles the fatter they get and B. equal doesn't equal equal. Everyone simply ASSumes because these cars are biased for understeer stock it must be the sway bars fault.... not really taking into account the 58/42 weight bias, springs and shocks or soft durometer bushings, or the toe compensators - literally there in the words of an MN12 project engineer - to induce understeer!!!
Apologies for my misunderstanding on oversteer / understeer and the narrow-wider tire combo! My curiousity stemmed when I read a post (I forget if it was here on TCCoA or on the TCCoA FB page) about ADDCO having production issues becuase of having moved and only able to supply 1-3/8" FSB at the moment. My thinking was to go with such a setup if at the time that I would have been ready to get the wheel and F/R sway bars they would still have production issues.

I have been planning on F/R 1-1/4" combo for the ADDCO bars.

Originally Posted by Woodman View Post
As said above, the wider the tire, the more traction you get.

Sway bars are, in my opinion, the last thing to "upgrade". Start with something known to be good, such as good rear end bushings, good front end bushings, wider than stock tires, etc to get more traction. Replace all the 20 year old, worn out stuff so that you're starting with everything fresh, then see what needs tweaked.

The 225 series tires will give you better MPG, but be a limiting factor when cornering due to small contact patch. My question is, assuming you have 225 front, 275 rear, is that for better straight line acceleration, or for appearance?

I like having same size all around when possible, since tires aren't cheap, I like to rotate them (front to back for me as mine are directional) to get more life out of them, and you can't do that staggered. I run 255's all around, and with good suspension, she corners very well.

So, long story short, what are your goals?
I very much agree with replacing all the old worn stuff first, but as you know my bird is down and out for two reasons, one of them being all the suspension. I am in the process of buying everything (hopefully that will speed up quickly here in the next month or two), and I mean EVERYTHING, and then moving to do an MT swap immediately after as her failed transmission is the other reason why she's down.

I frankly won't care much about her MPGs as she won't be my DD, that's what my Honda with 302k miles is for. Frankly, the 225 / 275 combo is more for appearance than anything, but on track days, I'm hoping to stuff the biggest wheel and tire combo possible on all four corners without having to roll any fenders.

Long story short, I want my bird to be both a showroom car and be awesome in the canyons, mountains, and Auto-X track.

Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
Who was it here that left them out of their mark arm swap?

I'd wonder how it drives?

It should have way more oversteer under throttle.
I think you're thinking of @jco1385 . I'm following his lead in his suspension thread and getting Poly everything where possible.

'97 Bird, "Pearl": L/R 2.5in Magnaflow Hi-Flow CATs | PI Intake & PI Cams | Suspension Rebuild

'13 Taurus, "The Bull": 3.5L Goodness

'00 2dr v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Greddy SP2 CAT-Back | Eibach ProKit springs | Eibach F/R Sway Bars | KYB-GR2 struts
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