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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Broken Clothes Washer

My washer is not spinning on the spin cycle and when the pump is emptying the water it seems there is new louder buzzing. I will be trying to fix this myself.

What's broken?

How do you fix it?

I seem to remember many repairs require removing the top of the washer.
Will this repair require removing the top?

I think there is a pin on the rotating center piece that I bought to replace a long time ago.

1992 Tbird LX 5.0, 3.73 gears, 1995 Cobra intake, deleted air silencer, 2.5" mandrel bent dual exhaust, SCP shorty headers. Updated four-hole fuel injectors. SK shift kit in AOD. Vogtland 0.9" springs, Tokico and Bilstein shocks.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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There's some good stuff on ytube and it looks like it was the gear that drives the tranny from the motor. They have a sacrificial plastic gear and rubber bushing that goes out. I think I already have the parts.

It's a big job that might cost $400 for a repairman to do but if I have the parts and no income due to unemployment I'll be trying the fix it first. I might even have instructions buried in my pc for the work from when I bought the parts several years ago.

I got a good video link to refresh my memory on another forum. I think I originally found technician videos several years ago but haven't had time to do the research yet.

Thanks for the input.

stay tuned for video of shooting unrepaired washer and search for a good new one.

1992 Tbird LX 5.0, 3.73 gears, 1995 Cobra intake, deleted air silencer, 2.5" mandrel bent dual exhaust, SCP shorty headers. Updated four-hole fuel injectors. SK shift kit in AOD. Vogtland 0.9" springs, Tokico and Bilstein shocks.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 08:04 AM
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The only thing I know about washers is there are these plastic "dog ears" under the agitator, that if broken, the agitator won't hardly do anything. They keep the agitator turning in one direction only. If you can turn it either way by hand, they're broken.

It is a common thing, they are cheap. If you have to take the agitator off, might as well replace them.

Al

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 68k miles
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Previous cars:
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96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 10:13 AM
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It's probably the clutch if it's not a really old washer. None of mine had belts, and they all use the same parts. Mine were direct drive with the motor mounted to a transmission with the clutch in between. I've replaced a few over the years. It's pretty cheap and simple. There are good videos on YouTube. You can google your washer's model number and find exact fit parts and common issues.

1994 Thunderbird - 2000 4.2L M5R2 now on the road!!

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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I found some good vids but the shortcut using just tilting the washer back didn't work. I struggled a bit getting the second clamp for the motor on but was able to get through that with some channel lock pliers. I had to put the front exterior on about three times before getting it right.

Now I'm a stud that has pulled a motor and I have clean undies too. Sorry no shooting video with an AK.

1992 Tbird LX 5.0, 3.73 gears, 1995 Cobra intake, deleted air silencer, 2.5" mandrel bent dual exhaust, SCP shorty headers. Updated four-hole fuel injectors. SK shift kit in AOD. Vogtland 0.9" springs, Tokico and Bilstein shocks.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 07:15 AM
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I'd recommend getting a new model. they are more water efficient and will save you some $$ over time.
Down side, they lock when running so you can't pop them open to add/fix the spin off balanced cycle.

IMHO
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