Mn12 4.6 2v race weight - TCCoA Forums

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Mn12 4.6 2v race weight

Hi I was wondering what some of you have got a 4.6 tbird down to weighing for racing. I have a 94 4.6 terminator shortblock npi heads, custom 225/230 .550 cams, headers 410s and 100 shot so far no et yet, can I get it to around 3300lbs? Thanks Brandon
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 04:06 PM
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You can probably hit that target if you gut the interior, delete A/C, use a small battery, use Aluminum block, diff and rear LCAs, light wheel/tire combo and whatnot

When you say terminator shortblock, you're using the stock block crank rods and pistons from a 03-04 Cobra? If so with NPI heads your compression will be extremely low(NPI pistons are nearly flat top, Cobra are heavily dished for boost) Also what intake are you using? Stock 94?
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 06:00 PM
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I'd start here:

Slimming your car down

Then there's here:

More weight removal.

Those are Stickys in "General Tech".

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 06:01 PM
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3300 lbs race weight with driver is a steep target. With a diet you can probably hit 3600 lbs but another 300 lbs is going to require some serious gutting... Check out the old thread from _95badbird. It's weight reduction to the extreme but sadly he never finished, so we'll never know the actual benefit from all his work.

Edit ^^ Grog beat me to it.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 06:37 PM
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oh yeah I didn't even factor in with driver, you'd need _95badbird levels of gutting. He was right around 3000-3100lbs before the build thread took it to new extremes and that was basically body and engine.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 08:22 PM
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... and _95badbird isn't a very big guy. Think horse jockey.

Another club member that falls into that category is AndyR.

Do all that and hire one of these jockeys to drive your car or drop some weight yourself and you might get there to optimize your quarter mile time.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Yes I think 8 something to 1 but plan to turbo later on.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the information guys, Brandon
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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. I am currently running a pi victor jr with cnl plenum 75mm Tb, but have a set of pi heads I could put on to raise comp. but I'm thinking of going with a turbo after I get all done. Thanks Brandon
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
oh yeah I didn't even factor in with driver, you'd need _95badbird levels of gutting. He was right around 3000-3100lbs before the build thread took it to new extremes and that was basically body and engine.
Assuming the driver is 150Lbs, a 3150LB tbird is possible but nothing you'd want to drive on the street.
From experience, I don't think you'd be able to keep your stock side/rear glass and doors and hit this race weight.
-g
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't even think about me in it lol, so I weight 160lb. think it be hard to get 3400-3450 with me in it? Iv already stripped trunk, spare and mufflers and going remove power seats. Just for limited street use anyway. Thanks Brandon
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 02:01 PM
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Keep us posted on your build. I was able to get a 97 Mark VIII down to 3,220 pounds, but that was a pretty extreme gut with no carpet, hvac, rear and quarter glass, or dash except for the structure that held the steering wheel up.

I also remember running into a website recently that was still selling the fiberglass door shells for our cars. That would be a pretty radical step, but there is a lot of weight in the stock doors.

Also, if you plan on doing a turbo later, you may want look at doing a 6 point roll bar now. Making the car stiff with the cage will allow you to cut out other factory bracing that you would leave in otherwise. And a proper 6 point bar (technically 5 point) is required when running quarter mile passes between 11.49 and 9.99 seconds.

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks I believe it's hairy glass with the doors. I will try to keep posted on the build how can I post pics here?
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teal94thunderbird View Post
Thanks I believe it's hairy glass with the doors. I will try to keep posted on the build how can I post pics here?
My car:
- 302 w/ M5R2
- no glass except front windshield
- no side mirrors
- no interior except corbeau seat
- No dash except small dash frame section to hold steering wheel
- Skinned doors with window surround cut out (just a shell)
- Skinned rear interior & parcel shelf
- All excess wiring removed back to the harness plugs (~80lbs worth IIRC)
- No carpet & all sound deadening scrapped up and removed
- Fiberglass skin instead of trunklid
- Second wiper arm removed (cut down wiper assembly)
- Windshield washer pump removed
- EVAP canister/emissions stuff removed
- exhaust modified (single 3" pipe going back w/ 1 cherry bomb and 1 flowmaster for mufflers. no cats)
- cruise control removed
- All HVAC stuff removed
- No spare tire well (26ga steel sheet cover)
- skinned hood (no subframe bracing)
- Full 6pt lemons cage. (~200LB) http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/image...eMons-Tech.pdf

When the car had a 3.8L N/A, I corner weighed the car and got exactly 3000LBs.
The engine added another 150LB to 3150LB total.
My subframe braces might have added a few LBs but the radiator swap (stock to griffin), the oil cooler, the hoses, and the accusump shouldn't have added more than 10LBs total.

Net result is NOT a streetable car.
Even if you swap out the hood and doors for fiberglass counterparts, the best you save is 10s of Lbs compared to the skinned ones I have now. Even lightweight wheels, an AJE subframe, and a MKVIII rear end won't save you more than a few more 10s of LBs. Perhaps the biggest savings would be to put in a small (like 1gallon) fuel cell but the net result would be a single purpose car (living your life 1 qtr mi run at a time between refills). If you went all out and went all aluminum on the engine, you could probably break under 3000Lbs but I doubt you will be able to get farther below that w/ a V8.

Bottom Line: this is a fat car. If you want to go light with a Ford V8 in a cheap RWD car with IRS, think SBF swap into a 1st gen RX7 or 240ZX or even a turbobrick Volvo 240DL. All those cars start at 2400-2800LBs and can go down from there.

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that information I think I will just get as light as possible and put a cage in and just add more power. Do y'all think I could make it run low 7's in the 1/8 with the terminator shortblock ported npi or pi heads 225/230 .550 cams, victor jr cnl plenum 75mm, headers, 410's drag radials already in have a dry zex kit at 100 and a 4150 plate also for maybe aaround 75 or so before I go to turbo setup thanks for all the help guys- Brandon
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