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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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Recent Autocross Experience

Today was the day. I finally got to run the car at an autocross event held by the local SCCA chapter.

It was a great day and learning experience. It started off rough with the serpentine belt getting shredded on the way to the track. The stupid power steering pulley (which has been a problem) ended up walking off the pump mostly and that caused the belt to lose alignment and get shredded. I was able to fix it on the side of the road after a quick trip home to retrieve some parts and a spare belt (dumb luck to have one).

I learned how to drive the car a lot better since I've done so many suspension mods. I've learned that in the mid 40's that I have way too much gearing and power overall to expect to be able to get on the throttle in any of the turns. However, I also learned that the Nexen Nfera tires I bought stick like glue as long as I'm off the throttle. I managed to be faster than all of the modern Mustangs by a couple of seconds (44-45 seconds vs. their 47-48 seconds). The car is an absolute beast for sure though. Unfortunately it's a bit too much of a beast for autocross but it's still some of the most fun you can have on four wheels.

Here's a grainy video of one of the runs:
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"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
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dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
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No times under new system.......yet.
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Last edited by MaddMartigan; 04-02-2017 at 05:04 AM.
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 09:12 PM
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Hey Randy,

Looks like you had alot of fun today..
The car looks and sounds great!

How many runs did you make?

Congrats,

Tim
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 04:58 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TBirdTim View Post
Hey Randy,

Looks like you had alot of fun today..
The car looks and sounds great!

How many runs did you make?

Congrats,

Tim
It was a test and tune event and it was also cold so there wasn't a huge crowd. That equated to a total of 7 runs. I think that if it had warmed up a little more in the afternoon that we might have gotten more runs in but it stayed right around 43-45F all day.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
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Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 03:41 PM
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Where exactly was the event located? Car looks good rolling tho!

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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TwoHaggard View Post
Where exactly was the event located? Car looks good rolling tho!
The event was held at National Trail Raceway in Hebron, Ohio. It sounds like that's going to be the course they use for Ohio Valley Racing (OVR) this year. The parking lot is a little rough but the whole thing is gigantic and wide open.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
OMGHI2U

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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 02:09 AM
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It looks like your Bird wants to fly.

Be careful.
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 07:08 AM
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Looks good, and sounds good!

Al
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 10:45 AM
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Iv been there before but never for auto cross. Drag week and import face off. I'd love to do some auto cross tho!

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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoHaggard View Post
Iv been there before but never for auto cross. Drag week and import face off. I'd love to do some auto cross tho!
Yep, they do it in the giant parking lot at the site. The lot is a little rough but it's nice with no obstructions. You can see the schedule for this season here: Autocross - Ohio Valley Region of SCCA

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 12:58 PM
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I was chatting last night with my machinist buddy who has been racing in Lemons for quite a few more years/track-hours than me.
I explained exactly where I had spun out at Sears Point and what i was felt trying to catch the slide twice before doing a 180.
Since you and I have similar suspension setups now, these tidbits might help you:

He says that it's not surprising what had happened given the track conditions and he believes it's because we stiffened up the rear a hair too much.
By doing so, as our car went through the carousel, it's going down hill at a fast clip and weighs down the car (down to the bumpstops).
Then, as you transition to the "drag strip" (which is really where the drag strip surface is at Sears Point), weight on the car shifts forward and cars with a light rear end (I think my tbird is probably more 60/40 now ) frind their back end breaking free and the whole thing destabilizes. If this happens in traffic ass puckering ensues.
Example: I think I lost it maybe 50 yards after this car as I was a littler wider at the point where he lost it.


Mike's First Suggestion:
* Soften the rear dampener slightly by going to a lighter weight oil. - Not worth it since the Bilstein's aren't easily drainable/refillable.
* Next Suggestion: If I move to a fuel cell, I'll mount it in the trunk so the weight distribution will shift rearwards and the CG will go slightly higher. While raising CG is not optimal, the wonkiness of the fuel shifting should help us reign things in before things break abruptly. IIRC, that's how the car felt before when it was much more "tossable."

* BEST SUGGESTION (esp if we don't go fuel cell): raise the front end slightly -- maybe 3/8" max by putting some rubber between the spring and the perch. That much lift shouldn't be noticable but it will mean the weight will take more time to shift forward. I know with our cut springs we are probably 1/4" too low already since the LCAs are NOT horizontal (heigher on the outside than inside). I've been told that our ackerman angle is probably slightly messed up because of this.

This should also if I understand things stiffen up the front end ever so slightly. See an exxagerated ver of this engr from a bunch of Mazda engr (literally):
FrankenMiata - Handling with a Hacksaw > MotoIQ - Automotive Tech, Project Cars, Performance & Motorsports


Bottom line MaddMartigan: you might want to think about what Mike suggested and it might be worth an experiment. I'll think about materials but I'm sure this could easily be done with everything from rubber to a cutting board.

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Last edited by S4gunn; 04-04-2017 at 03:22 PM.
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
I was chatting last night ......

....Bottom line MaddMartigan: you might want to think about what Mike suggested and it might be worth an experiment. I'll think about materials but I'm sure this could easily be done with everything from rubber to a cutting board.
That's pretty good information but I think the challenge I have is slightly different. Basically, I could take just about any of the turns at significant speed without any slip/slide at all. It was only when I gave the car significant throttle that I had the rear end break lose. I think that it was a combination of the temperature and humidity and my power combination. The one problem that one of the Mustang guys mentioned is that since I'm running a 3000rpm non-locking converter that I would end up having more power available to me than I had traction to put down on the course. While this may not hurt me on a longer road course, it will definitely hurt under the conditions I was in for the day.

I went into most of the turns with as much speed as I could get but I had to be careful on the exit because too much throttle caused me to lose grip. In fact, my usage of brakes was actually fairly limited for the day.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
OMGHI2U

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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by MaddMartigan View Post
That's pretty good information but I think the challenge I have is slightly different. Basically, I could take just about any of the turns at significant speed without any slip/slide at all. It was only when I gave the car significant throttle that I had the rear end break lose. I think that it was a combination of the temperature and humidity and my power combination. The one problem that one of the Mustang guys mentioned is that since I'm running a 3000rpm non-locking converter that I would end up having more power available to me than I had traction to put down on the course. While this may not hurt me on a longer road course, it will definitely hurt under the conditions I was in for the day.

I went into most of the turns with as much speed as I could get but I had to be careful on the exit because too much throttle caused me to lose grip. In fact, my usage of brakes was actually fairly limited for the day.
I think we are on the same page here -- how do you continue accelerate out of a turn without breaking the rear end loose?
* I haven't dyno'd our tbird but it probably makes an honest 250HP now and a good deal of torque.
* In 3rd gear on a damp surface, you would have to be extra careful around a corner (aka: gently roll onto the throttle vs. just stabbing down like we used to do with the poor v6) or the back end would break free in almost every corner. I believe we are going a bit faster than you through our corners since it's a road course vs autocross but it seems like in the short clip you did a bit of unexpected throttle steering through some of these turns, right?

Q: What kind of gearing do you have in this car and what RPMs does your engine seem to make the most power? Also, on this autocross course, what gear was your car mostly in?

For our car, we have slightly shorter than 3.73:1 gearing b/c of the slightly smaller OD rear tires.
This makes 1st and pretty much 2nd gear fairly useless on the track; Sears Point is quite twisty and we spend most of the time in 3-4-5 (you could drive most of the course in 4th with only a few forays into 5th and a few into 3rd to really launch out of a corner -- when dry)..

Our 302 really seems to pull hardest from 3K-5K RPM. You don't really need to go higher than 5.5K RPM unless you are trying to wring the most out of the gear before the next turn.


-g

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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 05:05 PM
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Are both of you running trac-loc, diffs?

Do you think a geared diff would help?

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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
I think we are on the same page here -- how do you continue accelerate out of a turn without breaking the rear end loose?
* I haven't dyno'd our tbird but it probably makes an honest 250HP now and a good deal of torque.
* In 3rd gear on a damp surface, you would have to be extra careful around a corner (aka: gently roll onto the throttle vs. just stabbing down like we used to do with the poor v6) or the back end would break free in almost every corner. I believe we are going a bit faster than you through our corners since it's a road course vs autocross but it seems like in the short clip you did a bit of unexpected throttle steering through some of these turns, right?
Maybe we're seeing something similar. I'm running an engine setup that is probably in the neighborhood of 360rwhp and 400rwtq. I'm also running a AOD with the 4R70W gearset, 3000 stall non-locking converter and a 3.73 rear end that's an honest 3.73 due to correct tire size. Not much throttle steering through the corners that I could tell. Just too much power in the temperatures is what it felt like. Others were having similar problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
Q: What kind of gearing do you have in this car and what RPMs does your engine seem to make the most power? Also, on this autocross course, what gear was your car mostly in?

For our car, we have slightly shorter than 3.73:1 gearing b/c of the slightly smaller OD rear tires.
This makes 1st and pretty much 2nd gear fairly useless on the track; Sears Point is quite twisty and we spend most of the time in 3-4-5 (you could drive most of the course in 4th with only a few forays into 5th and a few into 3rd to really launch out of a corner -- when dry)..

Our 302 really seems to pull hardest from 3K-5K RPM. You don't really need to go higher than 5.5K RPM unless you are trying to wring the most out of the gear before the next turn.


-g
My torque peak is between 3500 and 4000 rpm with HP peak being around 5200-5400rpm. I have an automatic and I stayed in second gear for the most part. The first time I ran and spun out was partly because I kept the car in first gear. I rarely got up to the 5000+rpm range as far as I recall. In fairness, I didn't do much looking at the gauges because I was focused on driving the course.
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"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Are both of you running trac-loc, diffs?

Do you think a geared diff would help?
Mine is definitely a trac-loc. If anything, I have too much gear for this setup but I'm not worried about it just yet.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
OMGHI2U

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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 06:10 PM
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Now THIS! THIS is the kind of driving / setup I want to do in my T-Bird!!! In time, in time.

How many runs did you do?

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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Now THIS! THIS is the kind of driving / setup I want to do in my T-Bird!!! In time, in time.

How many runs did you do?
Since it was test and tune I got a total of 7 runs in. It sounds like it will be more like 6 runs for a normal SCCA day.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
OMGHI2U

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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 06:52 PM
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When I said Geared Diff, I meant like a Eaton Truetrac, or similar.

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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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When I said Geared Diff, I meant like a Eaton Truetrac, or similar.

Detroit Trutrac Differential, Helical Gear Limited Slip Differential - Vehicle - Eaton
OK, I see. I'm not 100% certain but I don't think my traction is an issue of the differential. I think it's more of a case where I have too much torque and not enough rubber on the pavement in cool temperatures. There was no ability to "pre-heat" the tires before the run so I had to run with 200TW tires in 45F. I'm going to go again on the 15th this month so we'll see if the situation changes with warmer weather (I hope).

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
OMGHI2U

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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 09:15 PM
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I'm going to go again on the 15th this month so we'll see if the situation changes with warmer weather (I hope).
April in Ohio? You know better.

Pretty neat stuff! Great to see all the work you've done finally paying off in the wild.

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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by MaddMartigan View Post
Mine is definitely a trac-loc. If anything, I have too much gear for this setup but I'm not worried about it just yet.
Mine is also a TL. It was a fresh rebuild oh, 3-5 races ago and has a slight whine now but with all the other noises I hear from this car (note: we have holes in the floor to help with drainage when racing in the rain), I'm not really worried about it.

If anything, going to our backup diff which is an OPEN diff with 3.73 gears for truly rainy conditions would actually help. With an open diff, the wheels can spin at different speeds so the loss of traction with one wheel won't force the other wheel to spin at the same speed..
Open Differential vs Locking Differential


Swapping diffs is easy enough and something we might consider if the conditions become truly wet at our next race (not just damp).
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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 06:56 AM
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I wouldn't advise running an open diff. While it is true that it is less likely to go sideways on you, it can still happen, and when it does, it is far less predictable and therefore basically impossible to control the slide.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
I wouldn't advise running an open diff. While it is true that it is less likely to go sideways on you, it can still happen, and when it does, it is far less predictable and therefore basically impossible to control the slide.
My teammate Brett agrees with you.

Here's more of his feedback (sorry to continue hijacking your thread Randy but I think some of it may be useful for you):

Our biggest issue, even under this weekend's best conditions which were no match for past years, we had trouble getting anywhere near the throttle coming out of turns. Maybe more tire, maybe suspension changes. really not sure on that one but it seemed to be worse than years past. perhaps more power?
It also felt like anything dramatic might make the rear go as opposed to being a more neutral car. Like coming into the straight from the S-turns I can't just lean into the cars lateral G's like I used to be able to since it feels like the rear may go. maybe we should have tried the other sway



Clearly Brett is joking on the more powah but he might have a point on the sway bar.
In previous races, we ran with a 0.91" solid rear swaybar.

This past race, I had swapped in a 0.94" solid rear swaybar. Since a larger swaybar means that more of the compressed side spring force is transferred to the outside suspension, maybe going a little softer may help with stability in the corners.

For me, the cost to switch back and keep all variables the same is a set of poly bushings for the 0.91" bar. Or free, if I just reuse my stock bushings.

Randy - if you have a spare rear bar of a different size, rebalancing your front/rear swaybar ratio to remove some stiffness in the rear might be something to try.
-g

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Last edited by S4gunn; 04-10-2017 at 09:25 AM.
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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
My teammate Brett agrees with you.

......

Randy - if you have a spare rear bar of a different size, rebalancing your front/rear swaybar ratio to remove some stiffness in the rear might be
-g
I still have my old bar. However, my old bar is a solid SC bar that is right around an inch in diameter. I'm going to run another autocross event this Saturday and the weather is supposed to be warmer so we'll see if things are better then. If not then I'll have to get some greasable collars for the bushings so that I can put it back on.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
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-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBirdTim
Looks like you had alot of fun today..
The car looks and sounds great!
X2

Looks like fun!


Quote:
Originally Posted by MaddMartigan
I'm running an engine setup that is probably in the neighborhood of 360rwhp and 400rwtq.





Rayo..

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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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It was a very nice day to race this past Sunday. I've either got to get a lighter car or become a better driver or both. I can't decide if I need a better valve body or if I just have too much power at the wrong point but getting traction anywhere but after the end of the turns just results in no traction. It just kills my times.

Anyway, here's my fastest for the latest event and sorry for the shaky cam action:

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
OMGHI2U

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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 03:52 PM
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To get the best performance in an Auto car, you need to do 2-foot driving; one on the gas, and one on the brake.

Cars Stock tunes are set up so that with the throttle or RPMS over a certain point: the TC won't lock so it keeps the torque multiplication on all the time, and it keeps all the clutches/play tight, so there's no slop in the drivetrain.

If you know an older State Trooper, ask him to show you how; they taught it as a pursuit technique until a few years ago.

It gives you a big advantage over someone who doesn't know how... especially if you're trying to pit their sorry ass, lol. (My Dad was a Cop, I am not.)

Don't do it for long without a BIG cooler.

I doubt you could use it much in a Lemons race; shit would melt; it does anyway, fwih.

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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MaddMartigan View Post
Mine is definitely a trac-loc. If anything, I have too much gear for this setup but I'm not worried about it just yet.
Refresh my memory. What gear are you running?

I'm going to step mine back from 4.10 to a more highway friendly 3.73.

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
To get the best performance in an Auto car, you need to do 2-foot driving; one on the gas, and one on the brake.

Cars Stock tunes are set up so that with the throttle or RPMS over a certain point: the TC won't lock so it keeps the torque multiplication on all the time, and it keeps all the clutches/play tight, so there's no slop in the drivetrain.

If you know an older State Trooper, ask him to show you how; they taught it as a pursuit technique until a few years ago.

It gives you a big advantage over someone who doesn't know how... especially if you're trying to pit their sorry ass, lol. (My Dad was a Cop, I am not.)

Don't do it for long without a BIG cooler.

I doubt you could use it much in a Lemons race; shit would melt; it does anyway, fwih.
Two foot driving isn't my norm but I'm going to have to learn. I wear a size 14 so it's not a natural position for sure.

I'm running a 46,000GVW cooler so that should help with trans temps.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
OMGHI2U

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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey View Post
Refresh my memory. What gear are you running?

I'm going to step mine back from 4.10 to a more highway friendly 3.73.
I'm running 3.73's with my AOD with a 4R70W gear set. I think first gear is mainly for pulling stumps.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
OMGHI2U

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