XR7-4.6's disjointed Build Thread, now a 4V snob - Page 22 - TCCoA Forums

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post #631 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 05:13 PM
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I don't know how OEM it looks but Im happy with mine. No where close to done yet though.
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post #632 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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Alcantara? Looks sweet! I wouldn't have minded deviating from stock looking there if it weren't for the seat belt covers, which were pain to get raw material to wrap around when I tried.

-Matt
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post #633 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Alcantara? Looks sweet! I wouldn't have minded deviating from stock looking there if it weren't for the seat belt covers, which were pain to get raw material to wrap around when I tried.
Thank you! I used suede cause it looks pretty similar to that and its cheaper . I plan on wrapping the rear belt covers at some point and using them to hold tweeters since I don't plan on putting the back seat in again. I still need to replace my seat belts, carpet, headliner, and seats before it starts to take shape. Currently waiting on a door panel from tbscshop because mine is warped.

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post #634 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Alcantara is basically a fancy pants snob word for ultra-suede, close enough

I had to get new door panels as well, the 96 ones I put in a few years ago (to better match my old tweed seats) are all warpy on the tops too, I wonder if that's a common defect, as I never see that on 94/5s.

-Matt
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post #635 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 04:16 PM
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Only my passenger side is warped, and I think its because of the constant sun reflection it got off the side view mirror day in and day out for the 12 years the car sat dormant. I tried to heat it and stretch it back but it was useless.

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post #636 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
And this is why I'm never changing my interior color.

... That and I'm already content with (aka overly invested in) its current configuration.

You do the illuminated headlight trim mod yet?
No. You get the outside temp to display automatically yet?

I was invested in the grey configuration- Tweed seats, Mark VIII visors and headliner trim, door panels, seat belts and buckles, console, etc. I converted it all over to full 96-97 medium graphite, with exception of the sail panels. Familiarity breeds contempt

Besides, I never cared for the two tone Tbird layout with the black bezels, which I only initially succumbed to match the cup holder console top, and later the SC handbrake setup and FR500 wheel, the latter which never looked right around the monochromatic Cougar parts when I tried it a few years ago, possibly buried in this very thread. Plus white on black looks awesome, plus all the factory black parts I've aquired are in better condition than some of the grey stuff it's replacing.

-Matt

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post #637 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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So how am I spending this unseasonably warm weekend? Doing nothing productive, of course!


Before




After

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post #638 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 11:33 PM
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What cleaning product(s) did you use?

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post #639 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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None, this was old undercoating removal, so not technically "cleaning". Plastic scrapers, some home made for the tighter areas, did most of the work, while STRYPEEZE paint stripper and paper towels were used to clean up the more stubborn chunks that wouldn't chip away - I dabbed the stripper on one paper towel, gently wiped an area, and immediately wiped the residue away with another clean towel. Didn't let it sit on the surface long enough to eat the factory paint, it melts the undercoat instantly.

-Matt
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post #640 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 04:24 AM
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Did you use it on the liners too Matt? Looks good!

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post #641 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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No, but the liners aren't the originals, I just replaced them.

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post #642 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 10:01 AM
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Replaced them with clean originals, or is someone re-manufacturing them?

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post #643 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Clean originals out of a junkyard.

-Matt
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post #644 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayo View Post
As nice as that SEM Landau Black looks..
I want to see some pics of what it looks like up against an 89-93 MN12 factory black plastic interior piece..

Basically if the color change is going to require the factory black pieces to be painted as well, just to match..

Maybe when you get further along, you can show some side by side comparison pics of that..

Rayo..
Here you go sir.

Factory black on left, SEM on the right. I am spraying everything with the SEM but the kicks and sills are OEM black so if they scratch it won't be as noticeable.
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post #645 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 11:30 AM
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Thanks Jco!






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post #646 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-22-2017, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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My final act for the heatwave. Buh bye ricer red






Should have done this in the first place, Duplicolor's cast iron engine paint is IDENTICAL to the factory finish used on these calipers new



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post #647 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-22-2017, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Buh bye ricer red
but I like my red calipers...

Anyway, really like what you did with the shock towers. Lord knows I need to do mine, maybe this week end if the weather holds up.

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post #648 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-22-2017, 10:16 PM
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Have you finished your battery relocation wiring yet?

1995 T-Bird. PI 4.6. Bullitt intake. Big MHS cams. 4,200 Dirty Dogg converter. Kooks headers. Full exhaust. 4" Drive Shaft. 4:10s.
Waiting on a tune.

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post #649 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wile E. Coyote Jr. View Post
but I like my red
Anyway, really like what you did with the shock towers. Lord knows I need to do mine, maybe this week end if the weather holds up.
I'm pretty well in the minority with my dislike for calipers painted any color in the rainbow, so don't take it personally. I don't even like it on Ferrari and Porsche. I just regretted red from day 1, and wished I could find that original grey color in a high temp variety even at the time - the closest I found to my needs on the shelfs at the time was semi-gloss black, which I tried, didn't like, and stripped off to do the red, since at least that was a factory combo(a theme in my build).



Before you start stripping undercoating from yours be sure that the undercoating is willing to come off like it was on mine, assuming not all applications are created equal(depends on dealership/shop who applied it in the first place, when it was applied and what they used), mine would chip away in chunks if I accidentally bumped it with my ratchet handle over the years, and had it been bedliner solid I wouldn't have even attempted this. Even going into it on Saturday my initial plan was to simply attempt making what's there more clean and uniform... chipping away at the "loose" areas, and painting over the remaining area with black paint. As it turned out 90% of it were loose areas and the paint underneath was perfect.

The tricky part, I found, is that the factory paint color coverage turns into light overspray the closer you get to the upper control arm/spring perch area, especially the driver side in my case, so the undercoating seemed to bond a lot better to the grey sealer the factory paint is applied over, than the paint itself, where it just chipped/scraped away with no chemical assistance for the majority of the project. It took me maybe 6-7 hours total to do the passenger side, and that's including the trial and error approaches, and expected maybe half that time would be taken to do the driver side, and indeed, I had the lower frame rail area fully stripped within an hour, but the stubbornness of the coating in the upper areas probably exceeded the time spent on the other side.


Quote:
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Have you finished your battery relocation wiring yet?
I'll post pics when it's done, I jump between tasks like whack a mole, so don't expect linear updates in this thread
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post #650 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 05:04 PM
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This is why I want to repaint mine
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post #651 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
My final act for the heatwave. Buh bye ricer red






Should have done this in the first place, Duplicolor's cast iron engine paint is IDENTICAL to the factory finish used on these calipers new



Hey Matt. Did you spray paint over your powder coated calipers or did you buy another set in raw metal? If so how did you prep them for paint.
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post #652 of 659 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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They were never powdercoated, the red was duplicolor caliper paint over the bare aluminum. I rust roughed it up cleaned them up and sprayed right over.
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post #653 of 659 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Most of this happened over the last few months since the last update. I've been lax on updates, but living up to the thread title a lot of these projects I'd start, move onto another and come around again to finish, which I can't imagine is satisfying to those of you reading through all of this expecting satisfactory conclusions lol

So to start in no particular order, I posted a teaser way the hell back showing my steering rack removed. Well, I had no particular idea what I was going to do there, I actually came very close to doing manual steering, but common sense told me otherwise and I decided to pursue one of my fantasy swaps



I'm not sure how many of you know the significance of SPR ZM but this is a take-off low mile 03-04 Cobra Rack, the second best (first being 00 Cobra R) rack designed for SN95s, with a much stiffer torsion bar and better internal valving. A stiffer torsion bar in the pinion naturally reduces Assist by requiring more steering input to provide assist to the rack, and being a firmer link between the pinion and U joint provides more road feel. Neither of these benefits are possible by simply depowering the stock rack, whether it be by EVO or pump deletion.



These racks are a bit hit or miss when it comes to remans depending on who you talk to. Cardone lists a SPR ZM rack at Rockauto, but you may get a rack with the correct body with the code, but the guts inside can be from any number of SN95 Mustangs. All Cardone promises you are the rack limiters that 03-04 Cobras have(not necessary for us, see below). I rolled the dice and went used for about the same cost just to be 100% sure. All I needed to do to mate it to the MN12 was change the bushings/sleeves to the MN12/Pinto style and use the MN12 tie rod ends - inners are exactly the same, MOOG EV127 - and the steering coupler is different - triangle shaped rather than splined (I will be posting a future update showing my changes there)

These are the rack limiters. They're simply slipped over the rack gear and stop the tie rod ends from hitting the main stops integral to the rack housing.





Installed



Ooh, what is that shiny object lurking in the background? Perhaps another view is in order.



Oh yes, some of my finest sculpture to date, I don't mind saying. So I had this wild desire to use a Mustang midpipe assembly, because everyone says they don't fit. Well they don't, but it nearly does! And as you can guess the nearly is the factory stamped transmission crossmember. After thinking up all sorts of ways to modify it, I started googling looking for ideas and found this:



X factor by American Powertrain, which are made for muscle cars with modern transmissions. I saw that they were made out of T6061 T6 aluminum, and then it occurred to me "hey I used that stuff for my K member spacers, I can make that!" And make it I did



I basically made a cardboard template traced onto paper set up to hug the floor and mount directly to the frame without bushings(which killed two birds with one stone, my old ones were dry rotted). I forget the exact measurements but I used 1/2" T6061 T6, which seems to be thicker than the X factor but I'm not an engineer so overkill is the name of the game!









Suffice to say proper tools(a mill and/or a CNC machine) would have been a tad easier and maybe less messy, but I made due.

Since both sides are identical in dimension I bolted them together during the process



Once cut out came smoothing with my grinder(s)



Checking it lines up in the car



Next is the channel aluminum(also 6061 T6, 1/4" wall)



Going together like a beefy erector set



All this work to clear this damn pipe!




Painted and assembled with grade 8 hardware.





But wait there's more!

I had a good amount of scraps leftover, and to kill two birds with one stone I decided to make me a pair of rear caliper relocation brackets to finally use the Cobra Rotors I've had sitting around for several years.





While I was working on the back of the car taking dimensions for these I came to the quick realization that this 100K mile IRS was shot, toe comp boots were gone, UCAs had no resistance in them etc. I've been waiting for an opportunity to install my Mark VIII LCAs as well so, "when in Rome".

I finally practiced what I preached, going with Prothane LCA bushings and energy suspension knuckle bushings, and deleting the toe compensators.

Started with the knuckles, I wanted to add grease fittings and felt I should document it since there a few hacks worth sharing.



I use pieces of my harmonic balancer puller for everything, bushing removal is one of them. The energy suspension lower bushings are one piece and need assistance to install, so I put them in the same way. Slowly squeeze until the tip fully penetrates.



Btw I left the tap in the hole so the bushing won't squeeze through and tear when it passes by.

Once it eventually bottomed out on my puller, so to get it the rest of the way I used a C clamp and an old pulley on the other end.



Now with all the good suggestions to add grease fittings to these, grease distribution is often ignored. The bushings all have horizontal slats cut in already, but there's no way to distribute it. So what I did was cut a channel below the fitting into the sleeves with my expensive lathe



Same with the control arms, I cut wider deeper channels in these since the sleeves are much thicker, I don't want to cut so much material that they squash when torqued.



LCA and spindle bushing removal I used the balancer puller with 2-1/4" and 2-1/2" exhaust pipe sections. This is my legitimate pick for favorite tool, because it's been more useful for the dollar than anything else I own.





Grease holes being drilled and tapped



Bushings ready to go. The washers are to fill the gaps in the subframe when installed since the sleeves are longer than the bushings

Done




Ok, not done done Updates aplenty to come!

-Matt
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post #654 of 659 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 11:13 AM
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That crossmember is way better than the item that inspired it, lol.

Any chance you'll post the plans for those?

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post #655 of 659 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Heh, it's definitely beefier than theirs, in the end it weighs almost exactly as much as the stamped steel factory one, so it's not a lightweight upgrade I had hoped

And no, no plans. It's a pretty simple design, I cut out cardboard to get it as tight to the floor possible and traced it onto paper, and the center section is basically a tracing of the stock crossmember. I also lowered the Trans ~3/16" since the 3/4" K member shims moved the pinion up, putting the driveshaft scary close to the tunnel reinforcement with the stock crossmember.

-Matt
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post #656 of 659 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
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Slowly squeeze until the tip fully penetrates.
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post #657 of 659 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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I couldn't come up with a better way to word it


Speaking of shafts, here's mine...




So here's the thing with the Mustang Rack, the U joint can only be clocked in one direction, it's a triangle shape rather than spline. My initial steering shaft mod with a center U joint offsets the DD shafts on each end 90* from each other, which I was easily able to compensate for by turning the universal spline end at the rack 90* - Not happining with the Mustang rack and u joint.

So my solution was to buy a second 3/4 DD to 3/4 36 spline U joint(the black one) for the column end and use a splined shaft in between to completely replace the factory one, which will now allow for infinite adjustability



Factory SN95 shaft/rag assembly on the left



So in summary

-3/4 DD to 3/4 36 spline U joint x2 (the engine compartment one is stainless)
-Borgeson stainless steel shaft, 3/4" 36 spline x 13"
-Unisteer stainless steel DD to Ford Triangle joint

The collapsible DD shafts between the rack joint and pivot joint are recycled from the factory shaft.

-Matt
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post #658 of 659 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 06:10 PM
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Lookin good Matt

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post #659 of 659 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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First time in months my steering wheel has been connected to the steered wheels!





Rear UCAs rebuilt with the correct style bushings





Rear LCAs installed









Once again, big thanks to jco1835 for the rust free bolts. My stock ones came out like this



Knuckles back on. I originally thought to just scrap the dust shields but decided to use them as they cleaned up pretty well. I did however cut off a good inch of threads from their notoriously PITA mounting bolts



And 11.65" rotors



So much prettier





Also started working on the inevitable airbox fitment issues. Believe it or not Lincoln Mark VIIIs have different core supports and aprons, earning their FN10 designation, so things are a wee bit tight when using their airbox in a MN12.



Gotta go what you gotta do



I'm going to need to embiggen the intake hole in the apron obviously, but oddly enough the speed nut mounting location actually lines right up.

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Last edited by XR7-4.6; 05-26-2017 at 06:51 PM.
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