XR7-4.6's disjointed Build Thread, now a 4V snob - Page 3 - TCCoA Forums

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post #61 of 659 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Oh shut up, you know in my head I already have a T56, I just treated head removal as such

Anyway, got one head fully on last night, today the garage was too hot to do the other so I'm waiting for night.

Otherwise I spent most of today cleaning the messes and fitting the -6AN power steering adapters. I had to get creative with teflon tape and M14 washers at the pump since the factory line isn't seated the same way. The AN adapters have O rings with a straight flange whereas the stock fitting has a slightly shorter tapered flange and no O ring, so I had to space it up using the washer so the flange will roughly end where the factory one does, plus the washer should help seal it(I'm also using teflon tape on the threads).






-Matt
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post #62 of 659 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 03:45 AM Thread Starter
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Coming together...



I thought this head would be easier than the pass side but I was a tad wrong...

First, I could not figure out a good way to maneuver the head over the fender and into the car, it took dozens of attempts and I either couldn't place it over the block if I got into the bay with it(like I did with the pass side) or I couldn't get it to reach the block by lifting it over the fender, in the end I did a little of both and have lots of new cuts and bruises

Second, the dipstick tube SUCKED going in! I knew I jinxed myself when I said how easy it came out. I had to leave the head slightly loose wedge a crowbar against the block to push the tube while pushing up on the manifold/head to get the 1/8" or so give I needed. When I helped with Jeremiahs (machausta) headswap we put the head in with the dipstick tube unattached and it was a royal pita to get it in, so I made sure to have mine attached (which also contributed to my maneuverability problems I mentioned) and somehow it turned out to be equally difficult.

-Matt

Last edited by XR7-4.6; 07-18-2011 at 04:17 AM.
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post #63 of 659 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 09:40 PM
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I recommend the lokar braided oil dipstick tube. Make it go where you want afterwords....however I did manage to reuse my dohc dipstick tube by installing the head and tube onto the block and the manifold afterwords, but that was on a stand. In car the factory tubes always fight me. It's worth the lokar price for personal convenience. I also like the look. I'm sure your going to enjoy the fruits of your labor when it's all done. What's the purpose on the braided powersteering line? Avoiding potential leaks? Trying to prolong the inevitable strut rod bushings?

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post #64 of 659 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Yes and yes, plus the stock line was seeping from the crimps. Less than a foot of braided line vs. the four feet of stock is very nice as well.

I definitely should have gone with the lokar tube, I remember reading about it years ago when I was first researching the swap, If I would have remembered I would have ordered it with my AN stuff

-Matt
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post #65 of 659 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Kinda dragged my feet on updates since, well, I dragged my feet with the swap over the last week lol

I started it up for the first time saturday night, started and ran with no drama. Unfortunately my 02 water pump I swapped my leaky stock one for turned out to be even leakier so I'll have to fix that sometime this week (I have one ordered) and my lh valve cover seems to have a hairline crack towards the back and is dripping oil on the manifold flange and making a smokey mess. On the theme of smokey messes and exhaust manifolds, 500* clearcoat? Not the best choice it turns out

Anyway, lots of pictures since the last update:

Timed


02-04 valve covers VS. 91-01

Gasket/grommet differences




Baffle differences



I had to enlarge the hole for the early style PCV valve and grommet (the new style is a twist-lock O ring setup)





Power steering line



Trans cooler install







Wiring




More to come once the camera batteries are charged

-Matt
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post #66 of 659 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 03:40 PM
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Looking good Matt! I'm going to go have a cold one in your honor today.

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post #67 of 659 (permalink) Old 08-03-2011, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Jeremiah! The drink in my honor must have helped, all the issues I mentioned earlier went away after I took the maiden voyage today

I think I overtightened one or eleven of the valve cover bolts and caused it to lift slightly at the corner I had the leak. I took it off, cleaned up the gasket and surface, retightened it in a better sequence and presto, no smokey mess. Even the water pump hasn't been weeping, which is a bit irritating with my new pump on the way.

Drives really nice now, all the misc things I did while I was there probably overwhelmed the actual benefits of doing the headswap Though I didn't get a chance to truly flog it yet

-Matt
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post #68 of 659 (permalink) Old 08-03-2011, 06:38 PM
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ugh...looks like I'm gonna end up doing the high-pressure side of the PS pump-to-rack in AN. This old fitting just doesn't sit well with me. Make a thread in General Tech with all the part #s and everything and I'll sticky it.

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post #69 of 659 (permalink) Old 08-03-2011, 11:47 PM
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X2 about the PS stuff.

Only other thing is the fitting you used for the EGR. What is it (bung in the manifold).

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #70 of 659 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
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Here you go guys Converting the high pressure power steering line to -AN

Though I couldn't tell you what the fitting size or thread pitch is is for the EGR, I just used the stock stuff.

-Matt
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post #71 of 659 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Figured I'd dump this little project from last night in here...




What did I do you ask? I grafted my stock MN12 fan motor and blade into the 03 Mustang shroud!

Immediately after I swapped in the Mustang fan, I was getting some alarming voltage drops when the fan was engaged, especially at idle. Why? The low speed dropping resistor was toast so I temporarily jumped it (thus running on high all the time).

Last week I texted my buddy to see what a new resistor will run me, turned out to be 40 bucks! That's more than I paid for the fan, and half the price for a new motor! My frugal nature wouldn't have any of that, so I cued the A-Team music and combined 2 fans into one!

The 2004 Mustang shrouds appear to use the same core Siemens motor the MN12/FN10 uses rather than the smaller Bosch motor that was originally in this fan, so that's the next step and openes up the door to use a more powerful mark VIII motor down the road. The blade was a direct fit as well

-Matt
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post #72 of 659 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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I had to fix the odometer gear that broke over the weekend and figured while I was there...





W5W bulbs and scott's added lighting mod above the speedo. EVERY 89-96 owner should do this!

And don't mind the hacked grey bezel, I was just experimenting with something. The black one is perfectly in tact.

-Matt
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post #73 of 659 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 01:19 AM
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Damn you did alot of good work to that cat, Kudos to you Bud!
Keep up the good work

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post #74 of 659 (permalink) Old 10-01-2011, 06:21 PM
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where can i find a link to scott's added lighting mod? I need to do that.
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post #75 of 659 (permalink) Old 10-01-2011, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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http://www.customgaugefaces.com/Inst...structions.htm

I used the socket and leads from an auto shifter light to mount the bulb, but otherwise it's the same. 1 194 above the speedo, 5 W5W/2825s in the factory sockets.

BTW O'Reilly carries those bulbs, I had a really difficult time finding them at autozone, napa, advance, carquest, ect. around here.

-Matt
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post #76 of 659 (permalink) Old 10-01-2011, 10:46 PM
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Wow, I am liking the PS hose idea. I have always thought it was ridiculously long and I think I have replaced it at least once on every MN12 I have ever drove for years. The one on the 96 is leaking. I also love the light above the speedo idea. I havent seen these yet

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post #77 of 659 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 10:38 AM
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Wow, I am liking the PS hose idea. I have always thought it was ridiculously long and I think I have replaced it at least once on every MN12 I have ever drove for years. The one on the 96 is leaking. I also love the light above the speedo idea. I havent seen these yet
Yeah i need to do both of these mods my self.
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post #78 of 659 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Well my winter thrasher 06 V6 wheels have been slowly losing their luster due to their strict winter only use and my lack of cleaning off the chemical nastyness from it




Plus the silver finish doesn't do anything for me (since I find it really cheap and cookie cutter looking these days, and lets not even get into the irony of the wheel itself actually resembling a literal cookie cutter lol), so after a few hours of thinking, sanding, cleaning, masking, priming, painting, staring, drooling ect. I've left off with this...

No flash


Flash



The color is RustOleum "Black night metallic"

I'll post more pics here or in the wheel thread when I actually install them next month. First I need to figure out my teeny tiny issue I have with front brake clearance

-Matt
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post #79 of 659 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 09:32 AM
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i think its time you get a winter beater and keep that car as nice as it is

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post #80 of 659 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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I just need to permanently get out of this climate! lol

But I have been heavily considering finding a 3 month til death car to get through the winter this year. My biggest motivation for refinishing the wheels was to use them as a big/little track setup afterall

-Matt
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post #81 of 659 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
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I just need to permanently get out of this climate! lol

But I have been heavily considering finding a 3 month til death car to get through the winter this year. My biggest motivation for refinishing the wheels was to use them as a big/little track setup afterall
But yOu added all kinda of weight to them with that paint LOL. Jajaja.

Move to AZ. I did from gurnee and let me tell you it was a huge change, I lived in northern IL my whole life until here. I mean literally night and day. No humidity, next to no mosquitoes, very different. Yeah its hot but wtf you can just sit in he shade and chill, vs IL winter you can turn up the heat and pretend you just didnt walk through arctic temps. Many of the parts I pulled and sold here was done in 110 heat. I can take a few hours of 110 heat, yeah it can be sweaty but you'll sweat off the pounds too. Its basically 3 months of really hot weather so you cant just do anything out there as long as you want in the middle of the day. However at night you can expect the weather to be very tolerable. The winters here rock, maybe 3 chilly ass days out of the year, 1 week tops. Also you'll be tempted to buy some obscure car as you'll see things onthe road youd never seen before.

JUst move already its easy if you're single with no kids.


I couldnt find where the lighting mod was from the scotts link you gave and I blind or what? Also from the pictures it just looks like you added one extra bulb and swapped the stock bulbs for other bulbs. THats pretty much the gist right?

Spinning pies like wheels.

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Now with new ball joints...again

Last edited by Splattered; 10-23-2011 at 03:40 PM.
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post #82 of 659 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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It's in the first link halfway down http://www.customgaugefaces.com/Inst...stallation.pdf

But yeah that's the gist of it.

AZ is on the list, as are a few other western states. My main goal is Florida though, I like having a large body of water nearby.

-Matt
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post #83 of 659 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 08:13 PM
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Im planning on moving to AZ in june. We will see how that goes

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post #84 of 659 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
It's in the first link halfway down http://www.customgaugefaces.com/Inst...stallation.pdf

But yeah that's the gist of it.

AZ is on the list, as are a few other western states. My main goal is Florida though, I like having a large body of water nearby.
Florida has a good scene. Lots of good shops/tuners in Florida. As well as SCT headquarters, which is where you really want to work...
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post #85 of 659 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 01:28 PM
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Wow...I just had an appifany about how to make my EB dash lighs work...well, really well.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #86 of 659 (permalink) Old 10-28-2011, 05:21 PM
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Looking sweet!

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post #87 of 659 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 09:01 PM
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Any updates? I saw the picture of the new engine bay, super clean. Did you also delete the A/C?

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post #88 of 659 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I haven't been doing much other than change a few details, most of the big updates are still in my head at the moment

Yeah A/C is deleted, been so since 2008 or so, but I've been slowly putting new parts back to someday have it again. I'm planning on using different lines to keep it fairly clean looking.

-Matt
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post #89 of 659 (permalink) Old 11-17-2011, 02:35 PM
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Thanks! I haven't been doing much other than change a few details, most of the big updates are still in my head at the moment

Yeah A/C is deleted, been so since 2008 or so, but I've been slowly putting new parts back to someday have it again. I'm planning on using different lines to keep it fairly clean looking.
Yeah I was looking at the bulky obtrusive stock AC lines and wondered if that could be condensed somehow with a slicker line routing. Its too hot here to go without AC though. Without the PS pressure line and trans cooler lines in the bay in the way it looks a lot less crowded, you can see more. Plus the big drainage lip gets cleared up. If you redid you return line to the rack with some hose out of the way you can have that lip clear. SO when you spill fluids on it you can actually clean it up completely. I always hated how I built up crap there.

Find a trans cooler from an E150/E250 to serve as a better powersteering cooler and relocate/remove the stock stuff. If I wanted to throw a fan on the trans cooler that needs to be relocated. People have told me many times the stock one is tiny so it barely does much. Even one user has it by passed and DDs it a lot. No issue came of it.
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Now with new ball joints...again
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post #90 of 659 (permalink) Old 11-17-2011, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Heh, For the first time since I've owned the car there hasn't been any 1/4" layer of gunk build up on that lip. That alone was worth it!

I'm definitely going to do the PS return side eventually, in fact I initially was going to do it with the pressure side until the load(and cost) of the whole headswap project overwhelmed me. I was going to do the return side in standard AN with the stock cooler relocated just above the left most slot on the bottom of the bumper cover.

If I can get the AC lines to hug the shock tower and tuck below the intake tube I'd be happy. Not only are the stock lines obtrusive, they actually don't fit around my intake tube due to the pass side oil fill pushing it away lol

-Matt
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