XR7-4.6's disjointed Build Thread, now a 4V snob - Page 5 - TCCoA Forums

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post #121 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-03-2012, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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No updates on the headlight switch yet but in the mean time I decided to try taking the thunder out of the cat...



I found a MINT 96 SE Cougar at the yard and grabbed the dash/console surrounds and armrest (the first one I've ever had that isn't warped btw).

I only really went with the black because I inevitably wanted the SC console and FR500 steering wheel, and of course both were only made black. But the wheel looks good in contrast with it it turns out and I have the technology to make my spare SC top match.

Did I mention the pieces are mint?




Oh how I missed this combo When I last had it I had the stock cluster, stock 3 knob climate control, cassette player, ect.

-Matt
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post #122 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-03-2012, 09:32 AM
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Very nice! Congrats on a great find!

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post #123 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-03-2012, 09:45 AM
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Wow that looks new

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post #124 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-03-2012, 09:54 AM
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Wow that looks new
Hey dude, I just tried to call you.

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post #125 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-03-2012, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by XR7-4.6
I found a MINT 96 SE Cougar at the yard and grabbed the dash/console surrounds and armrest (the first one I've ever had that isn't warped btw).

I only really went with the black because I inevitably wanted the SC console and FR500 steering wheel, and of course both were only made black. But the wheel looks good in contrast with it it turns out and I have the technology to make my spare SC top match.

Did I mention the pieces are mint?

Oh how I missed this combo When I last had it I had the stock cluster, stock 3 knob climate control, cassette player, ect.
Just goes to show...How far you've come with your Interior Mods..

IIRC my old 96 XR7 Cougar had that color of dash/console surrounds on it?..It's been awhile..

Is that color of dash/console surrounds only available on a certain year Cougar?

Are you using the Boost Gauge as a Volt Meter?


I thought your dash/console surround looked good in either color..





Rayo..

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post #126 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-03-2012, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Boost gauge is hooked up to vacuum, makes for a decent MPG gauge with the possibly for a power adder later

The color keyed surrounds were on all 94-97 Cougars, I like both too but I think this fits the look I want better

-Matt
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post #127 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 12:04 AM
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Glad to see you finally got a boost gauge!

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post #128 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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And bezel! I won't have to hound you for yours anymore

-Matt
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post #129 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 12:43 AM
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Sticking with black leather shifter and handbrake? Maybe rewrapping to look like the frpp leather would be so slick. I dont know if you ever want to go that far to look different but its just a thought.

Youre car looks really good all color matched and you appear to have the fully loaded options groups. I like your approach and the downfall of no rust is no good interior plastics.

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #130 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 02:12 PM
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Sticking with black leather shifter and handbrake? Maybe rewrapping to look like the frpp leather would be so slick. I dont know if you ever want to go that far to look different but its just a thought.

Youre car looks really good all color matched and you appear to have the fully loaded options groups. I like your approach and the downfall of no rust is no good interior plastics.
Now THAT is an awesome idea! I vote yes! If you want to do that of course

My cougar is finally getting some much needed love after my caprice got into a horrible accident

So I made her semi-presentable and am looking forward to getting to know her better through this wonderful forum!

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Hopeful mods: Tints, cougar 7 spokes and fold down seat!
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post #131 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 06:55 PM
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I think they'll look great wapped in the frpp leather too.. Itll look so clean


Ide kill to have Matts interior I want one of those anni steering wheels so bad lol

1995 Tbird ~ 02 explorer SVO 4.6 Sold
1986 built/restored notch body mustang ~ appears as a 91+ built 5.0 gt40p, Ud pullies, ss headers, msd everything, arp head bolts, 1.7 crane roller rockers, B303 cam, Holley carb, high rise intake,5 speed, steeda everything. Sold
2001 GT BULLITT #00762 stock
2000 GT ~ 310 rwhp on mustang dyno. 08 2v, super low miles, comp 262 cams, bbk ud pullies, ported bullitt intake/accufab TB, 24# injectors, dyno tuned, 3inch pypes catless x pipe system, cobra brakes, coated cross & drilled rotors, Cobra r hood, 99-01 cobra front bumper, & 01-04 side scoops, dropped
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post #132 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-05-2012, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Well let's just say I'm not NOT considering something like that, I need to improve my sewing skills first. My first attempt to my old handbrake lever didn't go well

Jamie, my steering wheel is the FR500. The anniversary steering wheel uses thinner padding like a GT wheel but has carbon fiber(simulated) thumbgrips.

-Matt
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post #133 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Well I'm officially insane, I actually modded my seat belt buckles









Just the fact that I'd actually make the effort to get the color matched buckles from the junkyard and install them probably puts me in OCD territory, but when I go through this to install them...









...I might have a problem lol



Basically, these buckles were only available in 96/7 in the lighter medium graphite grey I wanted. Every car I found them in though had the red buttons faded to pinkish white(Ford/TRW seemed to dye them rather than mold them red in these years). Solution? Swap buttons!

And that's not the best part!

The rear buckles, as 96/7 owners might know, were only made in black(95 was the only year where they all matched). This is compounded by the fact that I have a backseat from a 1991 where they're fed through the top/bottom seam rather than slits in the bottom. So I had to improvise...









Totally worth it!

-Matt
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post #134 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 06:30 PM
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...I might have a problem lol
I agree! You're building the Cougar that Mercury didn't!

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post #135 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 07:11 PM
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Looks like you did the same thing as I did, and eliminated the rear middle seat belt? I like that look, much, much cleaner....

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post #136 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I ditched the middle belt a while ago, I hated how it looked. Besides which, personal luxury/pony cars are inherently supposed to be 2+2s.

-Matt
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post #137 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 08:06 PM
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Hmmm that's not a bad idea. Never really like the middle beat anyways. In fact, I can't remember the last time I had three people in the back seat. Long time ago I guess. Looks good Matt!

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post #138 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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It's just a lap belt anyway. In the unlikely event that I'd stuff 3 people back there, the middle passenger will get a head full of console in an the event of an accident. I'd be pissed if their head broke my SC console

-Matt
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post #139 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-08-2012, 04:54 AM
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I got your premise and applaud your efforts there its nice when you see the parts you want to use but not together....yet. Unfortunately interiors here are usually destroyed by the sun so swap in newer looking 20 year parts is a wasted effort here. Its all the sun and heat. Anytime I saw a nice back up green buckle I grabbed it so I have backs on back ups. But the console plastics are usually tore up and not worth taking like the gems youve found. Any other parts of the interior bugging you lately?

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #140 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-08-2012, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Well I'm also lucky since greys and tans aren't as susceptible to sun damage compared to the darker colors that came in these cars, hence the red buckle buttons being faded but not the grey casing around them. Greens, blues, black or any other dark interiors, even here, are usually badly faded and cracked. Plus cold winters tend to make mounting tabs brittle.

The black radio bezel I have for example(the one I just swapped out) is spotless externally. None of the rubber coating is faded or peeling and it doesn't even have any rub marks BUT not one mount tab is in tact, even the clock I had to epoxy on to the back.

Door panels are next. I'll be swapping to the lighter medium graphite grey 96/7 door panels and dying the sail panels to match. There's a few other treats I'll be doing in the process of course

-Matt
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post #141 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-24-2012, 11:28 PM
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I had to fix the odometer gear that broke over the weekend and figured while I was there...



W5W bulbs and scott's added lighting mod above the speedo. EVERY 89-96 owner should do this!

And don't mind the hacked grey bezel, I was just experimenting with something. The black one is perfectly in tact.
It seems like a Yes to me, but do you think it would be possible and/or beneficial to add TWO auto shifter bezel lights to the top of the cluster, one above the speedo, like you did, but also one above the tach?

also, did you solder the wires directly to the bulb holder?

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post #142 of 659 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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Nah the whole issue that prompts the modification is the bulkiness of the odometer mechanism blocking the light. The tach is plenty bright and even in comparison.

I didn't do any soldering to the holder or the bulb like Scotts article has you do. I stripped about 3/8" of sheilding off each wire, twisted and tinned the ends, and pounded them flat with a hammer. That way they slip into the holder between it's contacts and the bulb without being permanent.

-Matt
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post #143 of 659 (permalink) Old 08-10-2012, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Alrighty, next round of engine bay cleanup has started!

Remember how I moved the EGPR to the back of the LH cylinder head? well I cheated and pretty much just carelessly jammed the stock (97) vacuum harness in place like so...



Time to fix that with a few hours, careful use of a torch, burnt fingertips and some careful measuring ...




Green line in this case is for the FPR as I didn't have any red lines long enough for my routing plan. This line served to be my main guide for the rest.




Here, as you can see, are the new rubber connectors I got. Those took some digging at the junkyards to find.

Also shown is the newly bent EGPR feed line.










This is the basic routing. The lines come out the factory(97) vacuum tap up front, goes under and around the plenum, hugging the base, and makes a turn near the EGR tube all the way to the EGPR.

The 4th pic shows the routing of the FPR line from the EGPR area. Yeah. It's a very long convoluted path for it but I wanted it all tucked...



Of course I could have just Teed it here!














After I got all the fitting done I grabbed some convoluted tubing and taped it up.


Things are still a bit messy as there are are two bigger projects under way under the hood but this really makes a welcome difference from what had previously been there, let alone stock!

-Matt
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post #144 of 659 (permalink) Old 08-10-2012, 01:09 AM
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Nice work! Have a picture of the whole engine bay?

I've done the COP conversion, and when I do my intake and cams I plan on rerouting the vacuum lines. I might even clean up the wire harness.

My wife thinks I'm crazy but it'll be worth it
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post #145 of 659 (permalink) Old 08-10-2012, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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<--There's pics of it in my gallery.

It hasn't changed much up until now besides this vac harness and the new style small DPFE sensor(which I still need to properly integrate the pigtail into the wiring harness). Stay tuned over the next few weeks, there will be a few noticable changes and I'll be taking some nice quality pics when I'm finished.

Everyone thinks I'm crazy

-Matt

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post #146 of 659 (permalink) Old 08-10-2012, 03:50 PM
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<--There's pics of it in my gallery.

It hasn't changed much up until now besides this vac harness and the new style small DPFE sensor(which I still need to properly integrate the pigtail into the wiring harness). Stay tuned over the next few weeks, there will be a few noticable changes and I'll be taking some nice quality pics when I'm finished.

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post #147 of 659 (permalink) Old 08-25-2012, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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Ramping up project "make summer driving less awful" without making the engine bay look cluttered...






Got my new accumulator, compressor, pressure/muffler line all painted high temp silver and ready to go. The condenser is brand new but was already installed when I put in the Cobra Radiator last year



In the above pic you can see a few issues with the stock 94 suction line.

It has actually been a thorn in my side since forever. When I originally had AC in this car it leaked slowly from the service valve(now redundant since the accumulator has one) which, at the time, deleting everything was more appealing than fixing it, and now it doesn't come close to clearing the current 02 GT intake tube and pass side oil fill setup. (In the above pic you can see even without AC lines the tube broke the filler neck's seal and soaked the area with oil vapor). So I had to improvise a bit.

What I ended up settling on was a line from from a GEN II Mark VIII, which kicks out towards the fender like a 96/7 one does but is even more radical. It actually almost completely fits the intake setup with these valve covers. Only downside is I can't run SC ARC covers anymore. But eh, dead weight anyway lol


(BTW that's the old accumulator. So no, I didn't ruin the new one to mock up the lines lol)


The liquid/orifice line out the condenser I decided to order a V6 one that runs beside the shock tower rather than over it as per the factory V8 ones do. This will give me the needed clearance and look much cleaner as a side benefit. This pic is from Lil Mikey's Terminator swapped SC, but the line is the same and as I have yet to receive it, it works as an example...




Stay tuned

-Matt
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post #148 of 659 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 08:44 PM
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Any updates with your A/C Matt?

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post #149 of 659 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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I'm getting a pair of valve covers from Rob(rmfk13) tomorrow, I'll be able to install the AC stuff once I get them on.

-Matt
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post #150 of 659 (permalink) Old 10-15-2012, 04:27 AM Thread Starter
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ALPS window/lock switch conversion

Part 1.


Mostly since I haven't had a chance to play with my new soldering gun yet and wanted to try something different, I figured why not switch the switches?



Here's the basic differences, The stock (EATON) is from the 20th century, the new hotness(ALPS) is from the 21st century

Before anyone asks or critiques, there are horizontal lock switches available in this style. Unfortunately I had to settle temporarily because the vehicles I can source them from always have their door panel assemblies MIA. But the pinout is the same when I do find a pair and I still think it looks better, sideways or not.



I started with the window switch. Nothing too fancy, I just used in line splices from the pigtails and redid my horrid amateurish soldering job I did way back when I first installed the autodowns (2006!!!). All the splices are under the bundle, insulated with two layers of cloth friction tape and electrical tape.

Pinned the motor backwards accidentally at first (up was down, down was up) but in my defense, I didn't have an EVTM for these new switches, so I still call it an instant success and it took literally 30 seconds to fix.



As you can see, I moved right on to the lock switch pigtail.

Can you see the inline splice?






Of course you can't. It's at the terminal!

Been wanting to try this forever since individual terminals for specialty connectors like this are virtually unobtainable, I figured soldering the wire directly to the old ones would work perfect so long as it still fit the connector body.



Wires all done. No drama. No flipped wires. No gremlins at all.



Of course there was the matter of mounting the switches to the base. I ground down their stock clips and secured them with pieces of ABS and the original hold down screws.





Most work for the most subtle change I've ever done? Not even close, sadly lol

There's a certain extra quality to the look and even the feel/sound these make when you press them so I'll enjoy them and call it worthwhile. Little bs things like this I tend to like more than some of the big things I've done.


Part II (driver side) tomorrow.

-Matt
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