XR7-4.6's disjointed Build Thread, now a 4V snob - Page 7 - TCCoA Forums

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post #181 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Picked up another piece to the puzzle. What's the fun of a 4V if I can't bang through the gears?

Picked up this honey up from rmfk13 last weekend and borrowed some tools from my friend and former TCCoAer jk89cat to start yanking it apart.

001

For the most part the 5th and reverse assemblies retain the main and countershafts in the main trans case. For the most part, everything up to here is cake; unbolt the housing, punch out a roll pin here, spread a snap ring here, and done.

004

A closer view below. I should have used a bearing splitter here but, again, limited resources lol.

You may notice the odd finned hinges in the previous pic, those are some home made extensions I had to rig up for the jaws to reach. Anyone recognize what I made them out of?

006

Bearing off...

007

snap ring and thrust washer off...

008

Main reverse gear off...

009

Countershaft Reverse off...

010

Reverse needle bearing off...

011

5th/Reverse fork and collars off...

013

Had to whip out the puller again to to get 5th gear and the hub off. This was an unnerving pain as I was constantly worried about chipping teeth on every turn.

014

016

017

And finally countershaft out!!!

018

Unfortunately I'm stuck here for the day as the Torx bolts retaining the shift rod(and intern the output shaft) keep breaking my damn torx sockets

My overall plans for this are new bearings/races, new carbon fiber syncro rings, billet 3-4 shift fork with brass pads, reverse gear TSB fix and of course an aftermarket shifter.




....And then I need to learn to drive stick lol

-Matt
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post #182 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 01:14 AM
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Looking nice! I am afraid to touch transmissions, I don't know why lol

I do miss driving a manual, but I think I shall stick to my 4R70W for now. It's been behaving for now

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post #183 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
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I'm a cheapskate so DIY trans work is right up my ally I reclutched and modded my current 2000 Mustang 4R70w too. Still a great trans but I'm just bored of the car with it


-Matt
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post #184 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 06:54 AM
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Glad to see she's actually getting used! That tranny looked clean on the inside, as for your puller extensions are those part of your jackstands?

Rob
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post #185 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 08:46 AM
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Use a piece of pipe or something to drive those pressed on parts back onto the shaft. Don't hammer on them direct...ask me how I know. Those trans are actually very simple to tear down and fix, once you get past the mental blocks of your tearing apart a transmission. I've had mine apart a couple of times now because I hammered on stuff I wasnt supposed to, but then again I'm an idiot sometimes.

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post #186 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 10:28 AM
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I have brass punches and a brass hammer if you need them. Still need the pedal set?

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post #187 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah still scouring the yards for pedals

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmfk13 View Post
Glad to see she's actually getting used! That tranny looked clean on the inside, as for your puller extensions are those part of your jackstands?
Nope. They're made from an MN12 part. I suspect I might be one of the few dorks that know where it came from lol

Definitely cleaner than I expected. Just from looking in there now the second gear blocker is the only thing I've seen that looks noticeably worn. The 4th, 5th and reverse blockers still look perfect, though I can't really see 1st and 3rd yet.

Quote:
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Use a piece of pipe or something to drive those pressed on parts back onto the shaft. Don't hammer on them direct...ask me how I know. Those trans are actually very simple to tear down and fix, once you get past the mental blocks of your tearing apart a transmission. I've had mine apart a couple of times now because I hammered on stuff I wasnt supposed to, but then again I'm an idiot sometimes.
Yes, I really was surprised how simple this process was. I expected a lot more difficulty going by some of the things I've read about this trans over the years. I seem to recall some people making the T45 out to be some impenetrable fortress compared to a T5. Why? The lack of top cover? (although the torx bolt retainers are a bit tight)

Did you still use a hammer with the pipe? Or did you use the pipe with a press?

My better judgment(and training) dictate that I should use a press but my inner cynic and cheapskate keep telling me "pfft, a press is just a big hammer with more consistent pressure"

-Matt
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post #188 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6
They're made from an MN12 part. I suspect I might be one of the few dorks that know where it came from lol

Is it part of the seat tracks?



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post #189 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 02:01 PM
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They're for the torsion bars in the trunk that relate to the lid?

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post #190 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayo View Post
Is it part of the seat tracks?



Rayo..
You got it

-Matt
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post #191 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post

Yes, I really was surprised how simple this process was. I expected a lot more difficulty going by some of the things I've read about this trans over the years. I seem to recall some people making the T45 out to be some impenetrable fortress compared to a T5. Why? The lack of top cover? (although the torx bolt retainers are a bit tight)

Did you still use a hammer with the pipe? Or did you use the pipe with a press?

My better judgment(and training) dictate that I should use a press but my inner cynic and cheapskate keep telling me "pfft, a press is just a big hammer with more consistent pressure"
I used a piece of pipe and a hammer and it worked fine. A piece of exhaust pipe if I recall correctly. And its more just for the 5th/reverse syncro than anything else. You rap on that straight with nothing else I rounded some of the teeth over and then it wouldnt go into 5th or reverse very well. I still have issues with it, but it's much better now after some time with a grinder. The only other piece was the bearing if I remember right and as long as your easy with that its no big deal.

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post #192 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 07:48 PM
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Really surprised nobody has mentioned anything about the purple bell housing Kinda reminds me of someone's pink M5R2... cant wait to see it in the car Matt!

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post #193 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure if you told me why it's purple?

-Matt
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post #194 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 10:29 PM
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You never asked haha....we were testing caliper paint, purple caliper paint for some ****box Toyota haha

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post #195 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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well hopefully it's holding up better on the ****box than this lol

Bellhousing


I got it this far and I haven't even busted out the aircraft stripper yet

-Matt
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post #196 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 10:04 AM
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I know where there is a set I tried getting ahold of you while I was there to see if you still needed them but I couldn't get a response via fb or the forums.

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post #197 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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I just assumed the deal fell through since we discussed it in December. There's not much use messaging me on facebook, I stopped going to that cesspool a looooong time ago.

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post #198 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 01:38 PM
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I would have "impacted" those torx bolts, sandblasted that bell housing, and used the impact to drive the jaw puller as well
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post #199 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Oh wow, the puller too now! Anything to justify your extensive "investment" in all that equipment eh?

-Matt
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post #200 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 09:26 PM
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hell yea!!...when I'm welding and it gets too warm/sweaty/foggy under the helmet, I grab the blower nozzle hooked up to my 6-way air manifold and blast my face with 100psi air blast to cool down....works SUPER FAST like this, and I can get back to welding in 5 seconds.
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post #201 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 09:35 PM
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If you still want them let me know, he still has them. All I have to do is call him and I can go pick them up or have them shipped

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post #202 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 11:09 AM
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Looks good Matt! That’s cool you can rip apart the trans and build it back up yourself. The trans is a different animal I wouldn’t touch. Keep up the good work!

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post #203 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 05:16 PM
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Manual transmission is far easier to rebuild than auto, I personally have never done an auto but I have a manual. You'll do just fine matt

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post #204 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 06:40 PM
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I can't wait to see how creative he get when it comes to putting a clutch in it

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post #205 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 07:08 PM
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I can't wait to see how creative he get when it comes to putting a clutch in it
I can't wait to see how creative he gets when it comes to pushing in (and letting out) the clutch.

Although given his mechanical aptitude he'll probably figure it out OK.

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post #206 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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I'm trying to find another bellhousing but I have an idea or two if I can't.

I've thought about pressing a steel sleeve over the cracked boss, drilling/tapping the hole deeper and using a ball pivot with a longer stud(if I can find one).

Quote:
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Manual transmission is far easier to rebuild than auto, I personally have never done an auto but I have a manual. You'll do just fine matt
Autos aren't bad, it's just less obvious where components go and easier to misinstall something if you're not careful. The actual process of rebuilding one is actually very easy once you know what you're doing though.

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Quote:
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Autos aren't bad, it's just less obvious where components go and easier to misinstall something if you're not careful. The actual process of rebuilding one is actually very easy once you know what you're doing though.
True dat. And if I would've known you needed a splitter, I would've hooked you up. lol

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post #208 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 01:29 AM
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I would tig weld the broken pivot boss smooth it, sleeve it around it, weld the sleeve to the boss, fill it with weld, redrill a slightly smaller hole, tap it with the correct threads, lock it in place with JB Weld just to go over the top, and if all goes well you'll have a stronger than stock repair.

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post #209 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
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Alright, this weekend's progress report:

I managed to get the mainshaft out without removing the ***** Torx retainers

assembly

empty case

Just took a matter of manuvering the shift rod just right so I could pop out the 3/4 syncro hub. It all came out easy at that point.

disassembly

Here you can see the slight wear on the blockers. They aren't really all as worn down as I expected.
1 2 syncro

I suspect this might have caused more of an issue in 1st and second

1 2 3 4 forks

Notice something missing?

1 2 fork missing pads

Good thing I planned to upgrade those pads anyway!

3rd gear and 3/4 synchronizer assembly out. Had to use the 3 jaw again

3rd

5th and 1st
1st

This is where I left off

mainshaft disassembled...mostly

Unfortunately, 1 snap ring to go and this happened

doh!

-Matt
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post #210 of 652 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 05:51 AM
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If you need some tools gimme a call and you can swing by the shop, I've got a few snap ring pliers. Bring the case and ill get the torx bolts out too

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