Coyote 5.0 Engine Swap - Page 3 - TCCoA Forums

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post #61 of 237 (permalink) Old 01-16-2016, 09:54 AM
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Well the 97/98 MarkVIII oil pickup is a larger diameter than the Tbird one, so probably the best way to do that would be to cut up the Coyote pickup and the 97/98 MarkVIII pickup, and weld the 2 together in the straight section, so you have the proper attachment to the Coyote oil pump, and the proper pickup location for the Tbird/MarkVIII pan, and a consistent diameter tube the whole way.

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post #62 of 237 (permalink) Old 01-16-2016, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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You got it man! Are you pulling the trigger too?

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post #63 of 237 (permalink) Old 01-16-2016, 11:02 AM
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No, not yet anyway. The thought has occurred to me to pull the 4.6DOHC and procharger out of my MarkVIII and drop a Coyote in its place, but I don't have the time or money for that project right now, so for now I will just leave well enough alone. I just like to accumulate all this info so if/when the time does come, I will know what I need to make it work.
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-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90SC 5-speed, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, soon to be transplanted into...
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-70 Torino GT Fastback project car. Needs EFI and a manual trans, but I'm not sure what motor to go with yet.
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post #64 of 237 (permalink) Old 01-19-2016, 03:05 AM
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Thanks for the information Josh. I'll be moving into a house soon, and working on the bird more. I think the AJE subframe is my next step for several reasons. The pictures are very helpful. So as far as motor mounts go are the AJE mounts required or will the turbo chuck mounts transfer?

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post #65 of 237 (permalink) Old 01-19-2016, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information Josh. I'll be moving into a house soon, and working on the bird more. I think the AJE subframe is my next step for several reasons. The pictures are very helpful. So as far as motor mounts go are the AJE mounts required or will the turbo chuck mounts transfer?
The AJE mounts come with the purchase of the K member. They will fit the 4.6 modular engines and the coyote 5.0

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post #66 of 237 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Like a glove! This was a test fit to make sure the oil pan measurements and headers are going to fit. And they do. Kooks headers will clear the K member. Just put my order in for the oil pan. Should be here in 5 weeks.




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post #67 of 237 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 04:52 PM
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post #68 of 237 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 05:28 PM
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Like a glove! This was a test fit to make sure the oil pan measurements and headers are going to fit. And they do. Kooks headers will clear the K member. Just put my order in for the oil pan. Should be here in 5 weeks.

...
Wow man, you're going to have so much fun this summer.

Put some GOOD tires on it and hold on. 400+ HP is no joke. I could really feel the difference after switching to the TF Heads and E85. No doubt you'll be in for a similar treat.
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post #69 of 237 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 09:28 PM
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Wow I'm jealous..
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post #70 of 237 (permalink) Old 01-23-2016, 03:40 PM
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Hey Josh,
I'm always looking for your latest post, especially on this project. Great job, keep'em coming.
Read ya later, Nick
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post #71 of 237 (permalink) Old 01-23-2016, 03:43 PM
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I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you

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post #72 of 237 (permalink) Old 01-23-2016, 06:12 PM
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Wow I'm jealous..
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I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you I hate you
My inner demons are alternating between these two levels, lol.

I'm happy to see it happening!!

But I wish it was me, same as all those porno movies, right?

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post #73 of 237 (permalink) Old 01-23-2016, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Don't hate, don't be jelly!

I remember when a guy on here (Don't feel like doing a search) did a 03-04 Cobra swap in his black 94-95 Supercoupe. He lives in Washington State somewhere. When he was doing that swap I was like, "Man I wish I could do that!" I was a kid working as a security guard making $11 an hour living in a one bedroom apartment. I have to thank the Air National Guard for most of my benefits and opportunities for advancement in employment as a firefighter, but I've worked my tail off and saved up some money for the past few years. But I'm not rich or anything like that, I'm middle class like most of you on here.

I'll share a secret with you guys. Most of my funds have been sales through eBay. Sounds stupid but it works. This time last year I bought a salvage totaled 2003 Mustang GT. I was hoping to use the drive-train and other parts for a Factory Five Cobra kit car. When I found out that project was going to cost way too much I ditched the idea and just parted out the whole car for cash. I bought the car for over $2000 and to this date I've probably made over $8000 after fees and taxes with a lot of parts still left over. Buyers on eBay will buy and pay good money if you list your ad appropriately. Have a good description, lots of pictures and free shipping will go a long way as well. Even when I was saving up for my Tork Tech kit and built 2V motor selling parts, junk around the house--- I was able to raise the money. Took some time and energy but it worked. I'm telling you guys....EBAY!!!

P.S. Another trick, find stuff on Craigslist without getting killed and re-sell it on eBay. Last year I found a 2013 Ford Edge Chrome Grille on Craigslist for $10. The guy bought a blacked out grille and just wanted to get rid of the stock grille. I listed it on eBay and sold it for $250. I made $220ish (minus shipping cost) in a couple days.
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post #74 of 237 (permalink) Old 01-24-2016, 06:13 PM
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Don't hate, don't be jelly!

I remember when a guy on here (Don't feel like doing a search) did a 03-04 Cobra swap in his black 94-95 Supercoupe. He lives in Washington State somewhere. When he was doing that swap I was like, "Man I wish I could do that!" I was a kid working as a security guard making $11 an hour living in a one bedroom apartment. I have to thank the Air National Guard for most of my benefits and opportunities for advancement in employment as a firefighter, but I've worked my tail off and saved up some money for the past few years. But I'm not rich or anything like that, I'm middle class like most of you on here.

I'll share a secret with you guys. Most of my funds have been sales through eBay. Sounds stupid but it works. This time last year I bought a salvage totaled 2003 Mustang GT. I was hoping to use the drive-train and other parts for a Factory Five Cobra kit car. When I found out that project was going to cost way too much I ditched the idea and just parted out the whole car for cash. I bought the car for over $2000 and to this date I've probably made over $8000 after fees and taxes with a lot of parts still left over. Buyers on eBay will buy and pay good money if you list your ad appropriately. Have a good description, lots of pictures and free shipping will go a long way as well. Even when I was saving up for my Tork Tech kit and built 2V motor selling parts, junk around the house--- I was able to raise the money. Took some time and energy but it worked. I'm telling you guys....EBAY!!!

P.S. Another trick, find stuff on Craigslist without getting killed and re-sell it on eBay. Last year I found a 2013 Ford Edge Chrome Grille on Craigslist for $10. The guy bought a blacked out grille and just wanted to get rid of the stock grille. I listed it on eBay and sold it for $250. I made $220ish (minus shipping cost) in a couple days.
I did find eBay a useful way to unload tbird parts that were worth shipping but I couldn't sell to enthusiasts via TCCOA & SCCOA BUT it IMO honestly helps to have a significantly lower cost basis to acquire items.
When you add up all the eBay fees, paypal+eBay take ~20%!
It still peeves me that eBay now takes a fee on both the $$ cost of the item as well as on top of shipping -- so any heavy item w/o much value becomes non-cost effective to sell on eBay unless you can ship it in a flat rate pkg.

Given this much of a haircut that is taken by the "market maker", I find it amazing that some items sell for as cheap as they do on eBay (basically anything <$5 with shipping from HK/CN, or liquid flux from eastern europe, or an item that sells for significantly less in your home market and you can ship for very cheap -- ex: biore strips out of Taiwan). In your example, sure you can make money selling parts for $250 provided you can get a source of them for $10.

I remember being in my early 20s when I was living in a different state from my GF and had plenty of time on my hands -- I could buy things at the local Office Depot or Target on clearance and flip them on eBay for good money. I could make a pretty decent profit buying something for 50% of retail and selling it for 80% of retail on eBay (what I found people willing to pay inc shipping). IMO, given the $$$ fees, you cannot do that anymore unless you have the time/willingness to do serious volume (wherein you become a business and will be subject to IRS reporting) or are just able to find the niche (i.e.: collectibles).

Nowadays, the only things I'd consider selling on eBay would be niche items (collectibles, etc).

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post #75 of 237 (permalink) Old 02-01-2016, 04:32 PM
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I was able to drop the stock K member today and do a test fit and she fits. There have been a few guys wondering about fitment issues. There was none. The only thing that will not fit is the stock oil pan. I will need to buy a Canton low profile that is used in the Factory Five Cobras. If my measurements are correct it will fit perfectly. I was also able to weigh both K members and get a difference between the them, the mounts, arms and bolts. The difference is almost 30 pounds.
I got 2 things i got to ask you, will this be a Track car or you drive this one on the street?
How will the alignment be with these control arms,looks like you have to take them out of the seat every time you need to turn the rod end.
Is there a chance to send me some more pics of the whole K member and control arms ,i*m thinking about to get one of these K members myself for my tbird ,i would appreciate that.
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post #76 of 237 (permalink) Old 02-01-2016, 04:41 PM
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Keep in mind past experiences with that AJE K member kit have been dicey. Many issues have been massaged out as they appeared - gross misalignment(supposedly the original jig was built around a wrecked tbird), control arms bending from the weight of the shocks and the threads pulling out of them for the joints, and failed welds as I recall. Hopefully Josh has good luck with his, but I personally am leery still. If it's now robust you have a few T/SCCoA members to thank for being unwilling beta testers.
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post #77 of 237 (permalink) Old 02-01-2016, 06:02 PM
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When you add up all the eBay fees, paypal+eBay take ~20%!
It still peeves me that eBay now takes a fee on both the $$ cost of the item as well as on top of shipping -- so any heavy item w/o much value becomes non-cost effective to sell on eBay unless you can ship it in a flat rate pkg.
Yep, that's why I call it feebay now. Although it's not exactly 20% - eBay takes 10% of your gross, PayPal takes another 2.9% + $.35 of the gross. So it's 12.9% + $.35, then whatever you pay to ship it. I actually wrote a basic C++ to do the math for me whenever I was curious to know my net - or to calculate a sale price for a given net. "Stores" get a discount as do the power sellers... but for the rest of us who only sell occasionally - it is just too much unless you deal with small, light, high value items often.

Consider the price of a 1st class stamp of $.49 - you'd need to price your item at $.91 to net $0 becuase of fees. For a package, that goes to $3.26 due to the first class parcel rate starting at $2.54 - then fees.

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post #78 of 237 (permalink) Old 02-01-2016, 10:49 PM
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Keep in mind past experiences with that AJE K member kit have been dicey. Many issues have been massaged out as they appeared - gross misalignment(supposedly the original jig was built around a wrecked tbird), control arms bending from the weight of the shocks and the threads pulling out of them for the joints, and failed welds as I recall. Hopefully Josh has good luck with his, but I personally am leery still. If it's now robust you have a few T/SCCoA members to thank for being unwilling beta testers.
With my car being a track and garage queen it's easily justifiable for me to take the risk, but I would hesitate if it was a daily driver. I'm also looking at it as a replacement that will give ease of service to header installation and maintenance. Just upgraded my tow rig, moving into a house, and then moving onto upgrades on the t-bird again. I'm with you though, I wouldn't recommend this as a go to modification.

Also Josh does this solid mount to the motor or do bushings/mounts isolate vibrations?
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-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
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post #79 of 237 (permalink) Old 02-03-2016, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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I got 2 things i got to ask you, will this be a Track car or you drive this one on the street?
How will the alignment be with these control arms,looks like you have to take them out of the seat every time you need to turn the rod end.
Is there a chance to send me some more pics of the whole K member and control arms ,i*m thinking about to get one of these K members myself for my tbird ,i would appreciate that.
This will be a street car, I want to autocross and drag the car once or twice a year. They are adjustable arms so any alignment shop should be able to perform a routine alignment. Right now I have the engine in the car with the k-member. I'm working on the headers and welding on the coyote flange. I'll have something for you in a couple weeks.

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Also Josh does this solid mount to the motor or do bushings/mounts isolate vibrations?
There is a hard bushing where the mount bolts to the k member, No.
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post #80 of 237 (permalink) Old 02-04-2016, 05:01 PM
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Thank you so much,looking forward to
Thank 's again


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post #81 of 237 (permalink) Old 02-10-2016, 02:24 AM
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Did you order your parts directly from AJE or Jegs or Summit or another vendor? Just curious.

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
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post #82 of 237 (permalink) Old 02-10-2016, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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The order was made directly from AJE

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post #83 of 237 (permalink) Old 02-14-2016, 06:35 AM
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Thanks for the info

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
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post #84 of 237 (permalink) Old 03-05-2016, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Updates...

The headers.

So I bought turbo exhaust flanges from JEGS and the diameter of the port holes were 1.75". My MN12 Kooks headers have the 1.50" primary. I bought a steel tube from a welding shop with an OD of 1.75" and an ID of 1.50" perfect, only $5, they were going to scrap it. I cut the steel tube into 8 rings to have welded in the flange so I could match the 1.50" primary. I than had the headers welded on top of the flange. I just got them back this week and did a test fit, they are golden. The driver side is a little tight but it will work. I also had a extra O2 bung welded in for my wideband. So they are done for the most part, I just got them back from the machine shop. After all the welding, the heat will warp the flange, so I had them flatten the mounting side. Next week I'm having them ceramic coated.



















The oil pan.

I have not done a test fit yet, I have to take the engine out and make sure the pick-up and oil pan for sure fit. Then I will drop the engine in again for good to make sure the oil pan is good.








Brakes and suspension.


I replaced my old Ed brackets with Dave's CNC brackets, they are really nice. These are for Cobra rotors in the rear. I also did a Mustang 4.50 hub swap and bought new UHMW knuckle and lower arm bushings for the rear. New Cobra rotors and pads, braided brakes lines, Reman Corvette calipers, Reman rear T-Bird calipers and wheel spacers for Mustang rims.










SpeedHut gauges


Man these are cool! Can't wait to have these in. The speedo is GPS, no VSS to plug into. Turn signal and flash built in. Made in the USA.







Lastly, things are going pretty smooth. I'm running out of money and excuses for the wife to buy car parts with the credit card. I'm currently looking for another Mustang GT to part out or flip to help finish this project. I'm hoping to be done by May 1st. That is the plan for now. But we all know that doesn't happen so for right now, wishful thinking.

Thanks for looking!

Josh

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post #85 of 237 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 04:08 AM
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Thanks for the update Josh, it's really coming along now!

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post #86 of 237 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 11:01 AM
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Nice work on the headers. What'd it run to get them surfaced? bout $100?
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post #87 of 237 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 02:32 PM
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can't wait to see this in action, everything's looking fantastic. Although you need to get Zod to use his laser eyes and whip up a nicer gauge bezel

-Matt
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post #88 of 237 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys! It was 170 to surface the headers. Yea I could use a chrome moly gauge bezel.

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post #89 of 237 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 09:50 PM
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To divert a little attention away from this amazing build do the AJE K's have the option to run any of the oem control arms suspension on just the k, or no. The for sale on Jegs seems a bit vague. Also to comment, I have heard chatter of a person running around northern MD with a coyote bird. I will have to track him down, maybe he is on here.

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post #90 of 237 (permalink) Old 03-07-2016, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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No oem arms. Would have been better if they made it that way. You have to buy their arms.

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