Coyote 5.0 Engine Swap - Page 5 - TCCoA Forums

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post #121 of 237 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 09:51 PM
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Looking good. I can't wait to hear the start up.

Looking through your pictures I'm curious why you didn't clean this rust up while you had access to these locations?

Also, I'd replace the brake lines in the last photo if I were you. Now's the time to do it while you've got everything apart.

Just some suggestions. I'm not trying to nit-pick your build, I only wish that I could do the kind of work you're doing on my own car. Best wishes!






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See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 05-28-2016 at 10:01 PM.
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post #122 of 237 (permalink) Old 05-29-2016, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not worried by the surface rust on the underbody, there is very little to worry about it. When I get a car lift next winter I'll lift the body off the k-member and rear subframe and take care of the areas that need it. The body is very clean, I think the picture is exaggerating the rust, I added a little contrast to the picture.

As far as the brake lines I'll be replacing them before the car hits the road. Already bought the replacement lines.

It's ok nit-pick away. Anyone who has questions please ask me, I'm not going to hide this build or keep it secret. Hope to see more Coyote MN12-FN10's builds in the future.
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post #123 of 237 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 07:48 AM
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Cool build!
I probably missed it, but I'm sure your reasoning for using the tubular k-member was sound..

Basically, what I'm asking is..Without the use of the tubular k-member, would the Coyote swap be possible?

Looking at these pics:




Things look incredibly tight in there..

It looks like the back of the oil pan sits pretty low..Will the car be sitting at stock height?





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post #124 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-02-2016, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Basically, what I'm asking is..Without the use of the tubular k-member, would the Coyote swap be possible?
You can cut into the stock k member and make it work. My main reason for the k member is to gain access to the headers, power steering rack, oil filter, starter, etc. Second, the weight savings.

Quote:
Things look incredibly tight in there..

It looks like the back of the oil pan sits pretty low..Will the car be sitting at stock height?
There is 1/2 inch clearance between the oil pan and the k member. I have eibach springs.

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post #125 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-02-2016, 07:16 PM
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Thanks, and Good Luck!







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post #126 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-02-2016, 08:39 PM
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What is the weight savings between the two K members?

Edit: N/M I found it ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by OxmanWI View Post
I was able to drop the stock K member today and do a test fit and she fits. There have been a few guys wondering about fitment issues. There was none. The only thing that will not fit is the stock oil pan. I will need to buy a Canton low profile that is used in the Factory Five Cobras. If my measurements are correct it will fit perfectly. I was also able to weigh both K members and get a difference between the them, the mounts, arms and bolts. The difference is almost 30 pounds.

...

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 06-02-2016 at 08:44 PM.
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post #127 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-02-2016, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Update:

Made some progress on the gauge bezel. The radiator is in along with the alternator. I replaced my KYB stuff with tokico's in the front and cobra bilstein's in the rear. The front suspension is torqued to spec. Just need to do the rear. I'll do a DIY alignment before I take it to Firestone. Painting the brake calipers, brake lines and starting on the wiring. Someone requested a picture up top. The clearance is very tight on both sides of the towers. Slowly but surely, military training and overtime at work is keeping me from finishing this thing anytime soon.









Room between the engine and radiator.

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post #128 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OxmanWI View Post
Update:

Made some progress on the gauge bezel. The radiator is in along with the alternator. I replaced my KYB stuff with tokico's in the front and cobra bilstein's in the rear. The front suspension is torqued to spec. Just need to do the rear. I'll do a DIY alignment before I take it to Firestone. Painting the brake calipers, brake lines and starting on the wiring. Someone requested a picture up top. The clearance is very tight on both sides of the towers. Slowly but surely, military training and overtime at work is keeping me from finishing this thing anytime soon.




I'm very interested in this part. How did you go about making the bezel?

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post #129 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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I'm very interested in this part. How did you go about making the bezel?
I bought a piece of aluminum 1/4" plate from a welding shop near me. bought a metal cutting 2-1/16" hole saw and 3". Measured 20 times for the spacing and fitting the bezel over the stock gauges.

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post #130 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by OxmanWI View Post
I bought a piece of aluminum 1/4" plate from a welding shop near me. bought a metal cutting 2-1/16" hole saw and 3". Measured 20 times for the spacing and fitting the bezel over the stock gauges.
How did you manage to get the overall shape of the plate to be correct and what did you use to cut it?

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
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Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
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Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
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post #131 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Sharpie marker, hand held cutting wheel, grinder, files, and eye-ballin it.
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post #132 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 06:06 PM
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Sharpie marker, hand held cutting wheel, grinder, files, and eye-ballin it.
Some of the best tools in any machine shop
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post #133 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-04-2016, 05:04 AM
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Awesome! On behalf of well, everyone...thanx for this great write up, step by step details with pics & sharing of the minut details. Share the knowledge, knowledge is POWER.
To make the ic panel/bezel, could you have just used the stock one & outlined it on the aluminum plate to get the shape?
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post #134 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-04-2016, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome! On behalf of well, everyone...thanx for this great write up, step by step details with pics & sharing of the minut details. Share the knowledge, knowledge is POWER.
To make the ic panel/bezel, could you have just used the stock one & outlined it on the aluminum plate to get the shape?
Something like that, the stock bezel cover is (I think...) 4 inches by 8 inches on the bottom? I bought a aluminum 1/4 thick plate from a welding shop near me and eye-balled it on the sides and bottom to match the stock bezel face. I wont use the clear window, just bolt the aluminum bezel on top and run long bolts though the back to sandwich the whole thing together so I can have a stock look with the cluster dash.
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post #135 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a picture of the cold air intake system. The housing is from a 2012 GT500, I replaced the paper filter with a K&N. Getting the bottom coolant hoses put in. Should be hitting it hard this weekend! More updates to follow!





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post #136 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 09:16 PM
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Here is a picture of the cold air intake system. The housing is from a 2012 GT500, I replaced the paper filter with a K&N. Getting the bottom coolant hoses put in. Should be hitting is hard this weekend! More updates to follow!
...
Video or it didn't happen ....

Congrats Josh! I bet you can't stand the anticipation.

Be careful with it !!!!!

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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post #137 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 09:22 PM
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Looking forward to seeing that air box install, those look sweet.

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post #138 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 01:55 PM
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post #139 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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So close, but working overtime at work. Just want to finish.

And the air box fits like shit, had to cut it up

Finished the pedal mounting plate, air tube and filter are in, coolant top and bottom hose are in, heater hose connected and working on the battery box in the trunk. I made a list of things that need to get done and that's not even cutting into it.

After work and dinner tonight I'm going to drink beer and stay up until 2 AM just to knock some of the wiring and little tedious crap on my list.

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post #140 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 03:38 PM
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I was going to ask, where were you going to mount the airbox? Driver side like the factory Shelbys?

-Matt

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post #141 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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I thought the Shelby had the air box on the driver side? The GT500 anyways. The air box will go on the driver side and the PCM and PDB on the passenger side where the stock air box once was.

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post #142 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 04:36 PM
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Sorry, I meant driver side . I was speculating that part of the poor fitment may have been coming from trying to mount it in the factory (MN12) location. I see now it's probably that the intake comes to it at an angle rather than to the side as Coyotes require

There reason you chose to mount the PCM there? I'm used to our olde tyme 104 pin connector setups which are definitely not weatherproof

-Matt

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post #143 of 237 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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It's all good!

In the FRPP instructions it wants you to either put it in the passenger side fender or in the glove box. There is no way I'd be able to make the glove box work. In the 11-14 Mustangs they are all in the engine bay exposed to the elements. I'll make some sort of sheet metal enclosure like Rod (Racecouger) did for his 32V swap. And the wheel well cover and lower bumper should be good for the bottom part. Just keep heat away from it, is the important part from what I gather. The PCM looks weather tight anyways.

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post #144 of 237 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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post #145 of 237 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 01:32 PM
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post #146 of 237 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 05:10 PM
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Runs pretty smooth. Now to dial it it. Sounds great too!

Oh so close to finishing!

Congrats again. I so wish I had the space, the time and the skills to do my own work.

Nice video & great audio. Did you shoot it with your 70D? Which picture style?

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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post #147 of 237 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 05:51 PM
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That is amazing. So good to see a project in progress and finally the video with the engine running.


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post #148 of 237 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Runs pretty smooth. Now to dial it it. Sounds great too!

Oh so close to finishing!

Congrats again. I so wish I had the space, the time and the skills to do my own work.

Nice video & great audio. Did you shoot it with your 70D? Which picture style?
Thanks Ron! I did use the 70D, H.264, 1080, 30 fps. I should have used my Rode Mic to capture better sound, but is was just a quick video.
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post #149 of 237 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 11:24 PM
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post #150 of 237 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 11:55 PM
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Great job Ox! Awesome to see this project come out successful. Way to stay dedicated!
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