Common MN12 Problems (A buyers Guide) - TCCoA Forums

 2Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 409
Send a message via AIM to steveg1988 Send a message via Skype™ to steveg1988
Common MN12 Problems (A buyers Guide)

1994 through 1995 4.6L Engines will burn oil, it is in their nature. The valve guide seals were a bad design and will wear out before 100,000 miles. Engines will run fine otherwise.

1996 and 1997 4.6L Cars, Look behind the alternator,if you see black plastic directly behind it, you have the original composite intake manifold. you will need to have this replaced since it is a practically guaranteed failure.

All Years: The under hood light will short out on itself, disconnect if you are having door lock issues and a fuse blown, causing no interior lights.

All Years: The doors will eventually sag, this is a normal issue.

All Years: Avoid sunroof cars on the used market unless they are coming from a state that rarely gets sun. B pillar rot will occur due to bad design calls.

All Years: The upper windshield and upper rear glass molding is a no longer ordered part, you will have to do a DIY fix on any that has the rubber peeling

1989-1993 Automatic cars: You have a kick down cable, check for proper tension of it if you are not getting adequate kickdown.

1994 Through 1995 V8: Clean the EGR passage if you are getting inadequate flow OBD-II Codes. These cars are mostly OBD-II compliant, and most code readers will work.

1989-1995 3.8L Non SC: These engines have a bad design for the headgasket, 1998 mustang ones are the best to grab to make sure it won't leak. 1996 and 1997 do not have as big of a problem.

All Years: If the fuel gauge reads way beyond full, there is nothing you can do about it. The gauge will start to read accurate at about 3/4 of a tank.

All Years: Check for Rocker Panel rot, and lower door rot. These are common body rot locations.

1997: The computer in these has been rumored to break.

1992-1997: The LED bulbs will burn out in the trunk panel, complete replacement is the only option for most people without electrical experience, or time.

1994-1996: The cupholders suck, if you want decent ones convert to a 1997 center console surround.

And remember, no matter what year thunderbird you get, it will still be your baby, even if it may not have all the features you want.

The Haynes Manual will be your friend. the Chilton's Covers the fox body as well as the MN12.

Anyone feel free to add to this, these are just things i've observed from the forum when researching my 1996.
steveg1988 is offline  
post #2 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 09:18 AM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tinton Falls, NJ
Age: 34
Posts: 6,963
Garage
Send a message via AIM to MadMikeyL
All years: expect a complete suspension rebuild with new ball joints, strut rod bushings, and sway bar links. For the strut rod to subframe bushings, if they are bad, only replace with OEM bushings, which are becoming harder to locate. The aftermarket thermoplastic ones will fail very quickly.

In regards to 89-95 3.8NA head gaskets failing, the gasket is not as much of a problem as the head design itself. If you are taking it that far apart, 3.8 single port heads are cheap enough that it would be worthwhile to swap them out for a set of SC heads or a set of 96+ castings. Also get ARP head studs, or at the very least new head bolts, otherwise you will be doing this job again.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90SC 5-speed, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, soon to be transplanted into...
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-70 Torino GT Fastback project car. Needs EFI and a manual trans, but I'm not sure what motor to go with yet.
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
MadMikeyL is offline  
post #3 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 10:28 AM
5th Gear Poster
 
Urambo Tauro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 395
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveg1988 View Post
All Years: The doors will eventually sag, this is a normal issue.
The bushings can be replaced. If you catch it early enough, the bushings are the only thing you'll have to replace.

1996 Thunderbird LX (4.6), daily driver
1995 Mustang GT (5.0), alternate daily driver

Last edited by Urambo Tauro; 06-25-2015 at 01:13 PM.
Urambo Tauro is offline  
post #4 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 01:02 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
theterminator93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Avon Lake, Ohio
Age: 29
Posts: 8,676
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveg1988 View Post
All Years: The under hood light will short out on itself, disconnect if you are having door lock issues and a fuse blown, causing no interior lights.
97s didn't get the under hood light. Not all 89-96s had them either.

-Brandon
97 Laser Red Thunderbird LX 156k, Stage 2 4.6L 2v N/A | 300 BHP (255 RWHP, 290 RWTQ) | 13.95 @ 97.58 | Build details | Pics at the Lorain Assembly plant
96 Ivory Mark VIII 235k, stock 4.6 32v on coils; New engine at 185k
Gone but not forgotten: 94 Cougar XR7, 93 Mark VIII

TCCoA's resident pilot since 2014
Once you have tasted flight, you will walk the world with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return. -Leonardo da Vinci
theterminator93 is offline  
post #5 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 01:27 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
S4gunn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: SF, CA
Age: 38
Posts: 2,082
Garage
I would replace the Haynes manual recommendation with the Ford Factory Service Manual and EVTM. Both can be had used for ~$20 on eBay and are FAR more comprehensive than the Haynes/Chilton ones.

-g

My TCCOA iTrader Rating: (44 / 100% w/ 50+ transactions)
S4gunn is offline  
post #6 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 409
Send a message via AIM to steveg1988 Send a message via Skype™ to steveg1988
Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
I would replace the Haynes manual recommendation with the Ford Factory Service Manual and EVTM. Both can be had used for ~$20 on eBay and are FAR more comprehensive than the Haynes/Chilton ones.

-g
True, but the haynes is easy to grab, heck your local library may have it.
steveg1988 is offline  
post #7 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 07:27 PM
̇
 
Rayo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,668
Garage
The Haynes manual while maybe not the most comprehensive guide for our cars does have its good points..

I have all the manuals/guides available for my 91, and I use them all..

The service manual for example has most of the information you need, but the Haynes manual has better pictures of certain parts of the car..

Instead of a diagram you get an actual picture..Which comes in really handy sometimes..

My advise..Buy the Chiltons,Haynes,The Ford Service Manual & EVTM..

If you like to work on your MN12 these will all be useful at some point..







Rayo..

.
.
1991 Ford Thunderbird Sport

"If you don't know where you're going..Any road will take you there."George Harrison
Rayo is offline  
post #8 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 08:16 PM
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
I love the idea of this thread. It should hopefully help anyone smart enough to find the TCCoA and research a little before they buy. Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't the LED panels TBird only. That should be mentioned or updated.

Also perhaps a ballpark figure as far as milage goes for front end wear would be good. I realize that this will vary somewhat by region. But it's somewhat safe to say that somewhere between 100 and 150k regardless of locale the front ends going to simply wear out.

Not deal breaker but it seems that in northern climates the battery tray hold down bolts instantaneously corrode to the tray upon installation. And are so difficult to remove you snap the bolt. Finding the bolts no issue. Finding a tray that's not got the hold down bolt snapped off or the threads in the tray stripped seems to be bit more challenging. Given that batteries some times leak I'd be surprised if it's totally limited to the northern states.

Oil pan sump rust. Again a northern regional thing and it's not limited to just MN12 cars. But..... Replacing the oil pan is no easy task on these cars. I'm going to guess if someone's looking at the lower price ranges these cars are cropping up at that replacing the pan may equal the price of the car.

Racks. They hold up well but if it's leaking it's probably going to cost around 400.00 minimum to have it replaced. It's not a 89.00 rack and a hour in the driveway Saturday morning repair.

I'd like to this eventually written up as a definitive list at some point with all the debate removed. Which I suppose is the point of this thread.

Last edited by 97CatMan; 06-25-2015 at 08:38 PM.
97CatMan is offline  
post #9 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 409
Send a message via AIM to steveg1988 Send a message via Skype™ to steveg1988
All Years: Do not replace just the ball joints, just replace the entire control arm, it is actually cheaper to do.
steveg1988 is offline  
post #10 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 08:53 PM
Slightly Disjointed
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 15,504
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
I disagree with the sunroof statement, first off because the B pillar is completely unaffected by the sunroof or it's drain tubes, and two anywhere where a sunroof car is rotted out is the same place a non sunroof car is rotted out. The whole sunroof rots the car worse than a car without notion is specious at best.

It's a rather insignificant amount of water, relatively fresh water at that, that gets past the seal, gets split into 4 tubes and drained into the rockers and out. That's nothing compared to the underbody brine splash these cars will see from slush and road salt, and all the areas the sunroof channels drain to are just as exposed from the bottom of the car. The real issue with rocker rot, that the sunroofs get the blame for, is leafs and crap build up at the bottoms of the front fenders, get wet, stay wet, and eat the metal around it, including the fender. The sunroof drains may provide a trickle to that slop, but the tire splash is a monsoon.


Also since this is an MN12 buyers guide, not just a Tbird, I have a few other notes

-The windshield/ rear window trim issue isn't an issue on 93-97 Cougars since they share the all aluminum Mark VIII 2 piece windshield trim. they also use some kind of urethane trim for the rear window that doesn't warp or dryrot(not the case with the 89-92s however).

-The trim to watch out for that is fairly Cougar exclusive is the quarter window trim getting baked. Tbirds seem to hold up better here and the whole glass needs to be replaced to fix it

-The 94-97 reverse light lens fading covered in the tech articles

-The chrome trim on the 96-97s in the bumpers/side cladding often delaminates and ends up looking grey and hazy and there isn't a known suitable replacement for that size that I know of

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #11 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 09:16 PM
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
I disagree with the sunroof statement, first off because the B pillar is completely unaffected by the sunroof or it's drain tubes, and two anywhere where a sunroof car is rotted out is the same place a non sunroof car is rotted out. The whole sunroof rots the car worse than a car without notion is specious at best.

It's a rather insignificant amount of water, relatively fresh water at that, that gets past the seal, gets split into 4 tubes and drained into the rockers and out. That's nothing compared to the underbody brine splash these cars will see from slush and road salt, and all the areas the sunroof channels drain to are just as exposed from the bottom of the car. The real issue with rocker rot, that the sunroofs get the blame for, is leafs and crap build up at the bottoms of the front fenders, get wet, stay wet, and eat the metal around it, including the fender. The sunroof drains may provide a trickle to that slop, but the tire splash is a monsoon.


Also since this is an MN12 buyers guide, not just a Tbird, I have a few other notes

-The windshield/ rear window trim issue isn't an issue on 93-97 Cougars since they share the all aluminum Mark VIII 2 piece windshield trim. they also use some kind of urethane trim for the rear window that doesn't warp or dryrot(not the case with the 89-92s however).

-The trim to watch out for that is fairly Cougar exclusive is the quarter window trim getting baked. Tbirds seem to hold up better here and the whole glass needs to be replaced to fix it

-The 94-97 reverse light lens fading covered in the tech articles

-The chrome trim on the 96-97s in the bumpers/side cladding often delaminates and ends up looking grey and hazy and there isn't a known suitable replacement for that size that I know of
Good point on the front fender building up debris. As I recall they also wash down from the cowl area and get lodged there (although I may be thinking of my Ranchero) Pine needles seem to be the worse culprit and they get every where. Lodge exceedingly well and contain a amount of acid that really hastens the rot. This is one area to really keep flushed out.

Trunk leaks?
97CatMan is offline  
post #12 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 09:27 PM
Slightly Disjointed
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 15,504
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
Washing it out won't help, I think every MN12 owner should take the time once or twice a year to remove the bottom fender bolts and splash shield and pull the crap built up in there out manually.

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #13 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 05:58 AM
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Washing it out won't help, I think every MN12 owner should take the time once or twice a year to remove the bottom fender bolts and splash shield and pull the crap built up in there out manually.
New project added to list.
97CatMan is offline  
post #14 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-27-2015, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 409
Send a message via AIM to steveg1988 Send a message via Skype™ to steveg1988
Obvious things to replace too.

Do not ride around with the coolant hoses these cars came with, odds are they are as old as the car is, and may not last much longer, i've had a 20 year old coolant hose break, ruining the 3.8L in a 1992 sable.
steveg1988 is offline  
post #15 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-28-2015, 07:47 AM
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveg1988 View Post
Obvious things to replace too.

Do not ride around with the coolant hoses these cars came with, odds are they are as old as the car is, and may not last much longer, i've had a 20 year old coolant hose break, ruining the 3.8L in a 1992 sable.
This is probably good advice. But I'm not sure that it's a MN12 specific issue per say but one that should apply to any 20 year old car. I will say that the factory hoses in general last much longer these days then they used too. At least up her in the northern climates. But anyone looking at a 20 year old car should be putting on a hoist and looking for leaks in general. Pan rails. Rear main. Trans lines, PS lines. Brake lines and fuel lines. At least up here in the rust belt I've repaired two brake lines, the trans lines and as I recall the PS return hose on my old daily driver. I assume that the cars in warmer climates deteriorate the coolent hoses at a far faster rate due to higher under hood temps and just more stress in general on the cooling system. Be interesting to hear other peoples experiences here.
97CatMan is offline  
post #16 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-28-2015, 08:05 AM
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveg1988 View Post
1994 through 1995 4.6L Engines will burn oil, it is in their nature. The valve guide seals were a bad design and will wear out before 100,000 miles. Engines will run fine otherwise.

1996 and 1997 4.6L Cars, Look behind the alternator,if you see black plastic directly behind it, you have the original composite intake manifold. you will need to have this replaced since it is a practically guaranteed failure.

All Years: The under hood light will short out on itself, disconnect if you are having door lock issues and a fuse blown, causing no interior lights.

All Years: The doors will eventually sag, this is a normal issue.

All Years: Avoid sunroof cars on the used market unless they are coming from a state that rarely gets sun. B pillar rot will occur due to bad design calls.

All Years: The upper windshield and upper rear glass molding is a no longer ordered part, you will have to do a DIY fix on any that has the rubber peeling

1989-1993 Automatic cars: You have a kick down cable, check for proper tension of it if you are not getting adequate kickdown.

1994 Through 1995 V8: Clean the EGR passage if you are getting inadequate flow OBD-II Codes. These cars are mostly OBD-II compliant, and most code readers will work.

1989-1995 3.8L Non SC: These engines have a bad design for the headgasket, 1998 mustang ones are the best to grab to make sure it won't leak. 1996 and 1997 do not have as big of a problem.

All Years: If the fuel gauge reads way beyond full, there is nothing you can do about it. The gauge will start to read accurate at about 3/4 of a tank.

All Years: Check for Rocker Panel rot, and lower door rot. These are common body rot locations.

1997: The computer in these has been rumored to break.

1992-1997: The LED bulbs will burn out in the trunk panel, complete replacement is the only option for most people without electrical experience, or time.

1994-1996: The cupholders suck, if you want decent ones convert to a 1997 center console surround.

And remember, no matter what year thunderbird you get, it will still be your baby, even if it may not have all the features you want.

The Haynes Manual will be your friend. the Chilton's Covers the fox body as well as the MN12.

Anyone feel free to add to this, these are just things i've observed from the forum when researching my 1996.
Add the the propensity of the 1996-97 cars to break the exterior door handles to the list.
97CatMan is offline  
post #17 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-28-2015, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 409
Send a message via AIM to steveg1988 Send a message via Skype™ to steveg1988
One thing that is all cars in general.

What is the proper way to check the cooling system, from the fan to the fluid, to the ability to heat the car or cool the car?
steveg1988 is offline  
post #18 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-28-2015, 04:44 PM
4th Gear Poster
 
Tbird Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveg1988 View Post
One thing that is all cars in general.

What is the proper way to check the cooling system, from the fan to the fluid, to the ability to heat the car or cool the car?
This guy has some very good videos on the subject, starting with this one on checking and testing coolant/antifreeze
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHTM3dvpD1M
Tbird Bob is offline  
post #19 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-28-2015, 05:32 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Chris_Murder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 5,390
Send a message via AIM to Chris_Murder
Having owned 4 different sunroof MN12 cars with moon roofs I will say that the statement made above is a complete joke. All of my cars come from one of the most intense heat climates you'll find and I've never had an issue with rocker rot or dry rot.

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
Amber_Murder's Daily Driver.
-2005 White GMC Sierra 3500 6.6 Duramax, Dually, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG Commercial T/A's, Rancho RS9000XL Shocks, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, Banks Monster Exhaust
Chris_Murder's Daily Driver.
Chris_Murder is offline  
post #20 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-28-2015, 10:11 PM
5th Gear Poster
 
Urambo Tauro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 395
Depends on the locality. Cars in the rust belt are vulnerable to holy rockers.

1996 Thunderbird LX (4.6), daily driver
1995 Mustang GT (5.0), alternate daily driver

Last edited by Urambo Tauro; 06-28-2015 at 10:37 PM.
Urambo Tauro is offline  
post #21 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-28-2015, 11:20 PM
5th Gear Poster
 
ogbird95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Age: 27
Posts: 404
Garage
You can fix B pillar fade with some matte black plasti dip. Did it to mine and looks great.
ogbird95 is offline  
post #22 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 09:40 AM
Lightly Seasoned
 
Mike Shumard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Kingston Tn
Age: 54
Posts: 710
Garage
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used this on my B pillars, worked great as well
Mike Shumard is offline  
post #23 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 05:48 PM
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Add shifter interlock cable woes to the list.

The rather fragile 4mm or so battery bolts like to seize and or rust in the tray and then snap.

Rust belt cars may tend to break springs.
Natesriv likes this.
97CatMan is offline  
post #24 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 409
Send a message via AIM to steveg1988 Send a message via Skype™ to steveg1988
One thing to be on the look out for is fuel pumps, but that goes for any older car.

Use this repair to knock down the price if needed. "well it is a 300 dollar job just in labor"
steveg1988 is offline  
post #25 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 07:13 PM
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveg1988 View Post
One thing to be on the look out for is fuel pumps, but that goes for any older car.

Use this repair to knock down the price if needed. "well it is a 300 dollar job just in labor"
You should update the first post with the relevant new info. The pumps a good point and not MN12 specific. But it would be good to know about what mileage they go bad on average.

If it's not listed I would mention heater core issues and the fact that bad grounds compound the problem.

I'd leave out the window trim bit. It's cosmetic and common on any 18+ year old car. Out of all the things I'd be looking at on a used car the fact that the window trims faded isn't even on the radar.
97CatMan is offline  
post #26 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 08:20 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
theterminator93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Avon Lake, Ohio
Age: 29
Posts: 8,676
Garage
Mileage might not be the best metric for fuel pumps. Letting the tank run low (less than 1/4) consistently probably isn't as good for them as keeping the tank full all the time.

The one on the FIL's 01 GT went bad at like 60k. His T-bird's went bad around 140k. My Mark VIII's died at 195k. I replaced the stocker in my bird before it could die, and the old 94 Cougar I had was still running strong when I sold it north of 150k...

-Brandon
97 Laser Red Thunderbird LX 156k, Stage 2 4.6L 2v N/A | 300 BHP (255 RWHP, 290 RWTQ) | 13.95 @ 97.58 | Build details | Pics at the Lorain Assembly plant
96 Ivory Mark VIII 235k, stock 4.6 32v on coils; New engine at 185k
Gone but not forgotten: 94 Cougar XR7, 93 Mark VIII

TCCoA's resident pilot since 2014
Once you have tasted flight, you will walk the world with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return. -Leonardo da Vinci
theterminator93 is offline  
post #27 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 09:47 PM
Is something burning?..
 
JLangton2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Wildwood, Texas
Age: 20
Posts: 710
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Murder View Post
Having owned 4 different sunroof MN12 cars with moon roofs I will say that the statement made above is a complete joke. All of my cars come from one of the most intense heat climates you'll find and I've never had an issue with rocker rot or dry rot.
400,000 body miles in the texas heat and my T-bird has never had any kind of issue with the moonroof, rocker rotor dry rot.

-Jonathan
The DD:ECOBLEWST:2016 Mustang Ecoboost 2.3-12.46@107
1995 Thunderbird LX
The "High Mileage Thrasher" 1997 JL 4.6 bird!



generated by sloganizer.net
JLangton2 is offline  
post #28 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 09:48 PM
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
Mileage might not be the best metric for fuel pumps. Letting the tank run low (less than 1/4) consistently probably isn't as good for them as keeping the tank full all the time.

The one on the FIL's 01 GT went bad at like 60k. His T-bird's went bad around 140k. My Mark VIII's died at 195k. I replaced the stocker in my bird before it could die, and the old 94 Cougar I had was still running strong when I sold it north of 150k...
My poor old parts car. 178k on the clock. In the last year I rarely put more than 1/2 in it. I always figured it might be the last trip lol. It was below a 1/4 quite a bit. But yeah it's important to keep the pump submerged as the gas acts a source to transfer heat away from the pump.

Some stuff like late 1980s and early nineties FI Escorts seemed to all lose the in tank pumps right at 89-100K regular as clock work. I just thought there might be a similar interval for the MN12. I should say I bought my current parts car with 80k so it's possible it may have been replaced before I bought it. The 100k I put on it was more remarkable for what it didn't need.

Personally I think that if the pumps gotten somewhere north of 200K it's about due. They dont last forever. If I had to replace a pump at 200K I'd strug it off as a normal maintenance expense. It does make me wonder what the upper end of the scale is before they die. 250k? 300K? Some of the southern guys may know. Not much up here I've seen with over 200k.

I do think that totally crappy gas may shorten the life. As will letting the car sit. A buddy did his wife's Mustang GTat 3500 miles. But the car is just not driven all that much. Maybe a tank a year.

If there's some consensus on a average it would be good to know.
97CatMan is offline  
post #29 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 409
Send a message via AIM to steveg1988 Send a message via Skype™ to steveg1988
I think keeping this post as is would be a good idea.

Also can someone make a poll with various intervals, i am not used to this version of the forum software, i'm used to other software/versions.

Options will be

Fuel Pump failure: Miles

Under 100K

100-125K

125-150k

150-175k

175k-200k

200-225k

225-250k

250+
steveg1988 is offline  
post #30 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-22-2015, 07:12 PM
TCCoA Bachelor Club Pres.
 
92CougLS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: WA
Age: 33
Posts: 1,267
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
-The trim to watch out for that is fairly Cougar exclusive is the quarter window trim getting baked. Tbirds seem to hold up better here and the whole glass needs to be replaced to fix it
I had this on my 92, and I have it pretty bad on the driver side, but not so much the passenger. Is there anything to do to slow it down? Besides looking hideous, how bad does it have to get before it actually causes a problem?

-Kurt
1995 Mercury Cougar XR7
4.6L Bone Stock.
Undergoing a light refurbish
92CougLS is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome