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post #31 of 104 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 11:13 AM
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well hopefully i can find a set then. think a ford dismantler will have those sleeves? if not think i can by the ford bushings and use the sleeves off of a set like the moogs.?

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post #32 of 104 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 11:38 AM
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well hopefully i can find a set then. think a ford dismantler will have those sleeves? if not think i can by the ford bushings and use the sleeves off of a set like the moogs.?
well i think is better if you get the dlf sleeves o go to the junkyard and find the originals from a rust free car

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post #33 of 104 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 12:41 PM
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well hopefully i can find a set then. think a ford dismantler will have those sleeves? if not think i can by the ford bushings and use the sleeves off of a set like the moogs.?
... I might have a set of sleeves brand new never been used ... I have a few of these kind of parts in storage.

The moogs are very different. I dont think a dismantler would bother to take the time to seperate the bushings from the subframe either and save the sleeves in re-useable condition.

Last edited by dDUBb; 04-11-2012 at 12:50 PM.
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post #34 of 104 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 03:25 PM
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... I might have a set of sleeves brand new never been used ... I have a few of these kind of parts in storage.

The moogs are very different. I dont think a dismantler would bother to take the time to seperate the bushings from the subframe either and save the sleeves in re-useable condition.
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post #35 of 104 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 03:27 PM
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well hopefully i can find a set then. think a ford dismantler will have those sleeves? if not think i can by the ford bushings and use the sleeves off of a set like the moogs.?
Your choices are threefold at this point.

1) Go to a Pick-A-Part or U-Pull-It type yard and pull them yourself.

2) Get someone else on the forum to send you a serviceable set.

3) Buy a set of DLF's stainless bushings. You may still need the washers off the Ford set, however.

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post #36 of 104 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 03:34 PM
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3) Buy a set of DLF's stainless sleeves.

RwP
Fixed that for you.

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post #37 of 104 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 03:48 PM
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SS bushings sure would stiffen things up lol

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post #38 of 104 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 09:22 PM
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I work for Advance Auto so if there are any bushings ya'll want me to look into just let me know and I'll see what I can find out. We carry the Driveworks/TRW/and the Moog.
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post #39 of 104 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 08:24 AM
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The Moog strut rod bushing kits K8680 and K8659 that I got from RockAuto a few days ago came without any instructions whatsoever in the boxes. I called Moog’s ProblemSolver tech support line yesterday and here’s what the guy told me.
  • The Moog and OEM bushings are two different animals and the most common reason for the thermoplastic bushings failing is over-tightening. The TP bushings, by design, do not compress like the rubber ones, and therefore don’t require near the torque of the OEM bushings.
  • Moog recommends snugging the bushings down and then no more than 2-3 full turns after that. There’s not a rule of thumb for X% of factory torque specs or anything like that.
  • Even things up and then get a proper alignment.
  • Don't let the suspension get out of balance. Replace/adjust components as soon as they start to go bad to avoid putting excessive stress on the bushings. Avoid chronic excessive suspension travel.

This definitely goes against the service manual’s direction to measure the open thread lengths on the rods and apply the appropriate torque on them. Trying to match the old and new thread lengths would be a problem, too. A brief instruction sheet from Moog would definitely clear up the confusion.

The TP bushings seem to be used in dozens of applications now. Moog seems to be shooting themselves in the foot with these TP bushings by not including proper instructions.

The TP bushings themselves feel like a small baseball. Until I talked to the Moog guy, I thought the problem was either overtightening or the included sleeves being too long.

I am new to both MN12s and suspensions and by no means a scholar on the subject. There are plenty of guys here with more experience on the subject. It seems like it would be pretty easy for someone to unknowingly perform an incorrect installation of these bushings.

Just throwing this out there for discussion.

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Last edited by Torinocator; 06-06-2012 at 08:31 AM.
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post #40 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-07-2012, 10:00 AM
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I just finished mine this morning. I used the original sleeves, Mood bushings, original washers, and I snugged the nut NOT over tightening. We`ll see what happens ina few weeks. I drive 30 miles a day with very few bumps and rough roads so it`ll take a while for damage
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post #41 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-07-2012, 10:10 AM
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The torque specs on the strut rod nuts are 83-113 Lb-Ft on both ends.

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post #42 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 06:23 AM
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Just to give a little update. The strut rod bushing kits to frame from Driveworks do not have split sleeves anymore. Theyre solid.

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post #43 of 104 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 09:37 PM
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Found this on ebay

i would be intrested bt he only accepts paypal. So for you that do that sort of thing and need the parts. Here you go 1 kit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Thunder...8dadad&vxp=mtr
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post #44 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-24-2013, 10:45 PM
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MOOG Control Arm Bushing to Frame









Sorry for the stupid question but where does this go? I am compiling the parts I need to freshen up the front end, but I cant find any references to this. Is it included with the control arm when getting a new control arm? The cost is darn near the price of either the upper or lower Moog control arm.


Thanks
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post #45 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-25-2013, 12:16 AM
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Sorry for the stupid question but where does this go? I am compiling the parts I need to freshen up the front end, but I cant find any references to this. Is it included with the control arm when getting a new control arm? The cost is darn near the price of either the upper or lower Moog control arm.


Thanks
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...365&cc=1140534

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post #46 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-25-2013, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by harleybuc View Post
Sorry for the stupid question but where does this go? I am compiling the parts I need to freshen up the front end, but I cant find any references to this. Is it included with the control arm when getting a new control arm? The cost is darn near the price of either the upper or lower Moog control arm.


Thanks
That is the lower control arm to frame bushing, yes it comes installed in new lower control arms. That part is for the person who just wants to replace the bushing instead of the whole arm. Typically it is more cost effective to replace the whole arm.

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post #47 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-25-2013, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris_Murder View Post
That is the lower control arm to frame bushing, yes it comes installed in new lower control arms. That part is for the person who just wants to replace the bushing instead of the whole arm. Typically it is more cost effective to replace the whole arm.
That answered my question, I have new control arms on the way.

Thanks
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post #48 of 104 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 02:16 PM
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does anyone know where i can get a replacement nut for the control arm side, it fell off and I couldnt find it so im looking for another one.

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post #49 of 104 (permalink) Old 10-25-2013, 04:36 PM
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actually how bout the entire strut rod, i robbed the nuts from a car at the junkyard but they wont screw on the end cuz my threads are messed u.

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post #50 of 104 (permalink) Old 10-25-2013, 11:58 PM
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actually how bout the entire strut rod, i robbed the nuts from a car at the junkyard but they wont screw on the end cuz my threads are messed u.
Go back to that junkyard and grab the strut rods out of it?

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post #51 of 104 (permalink) Old 11-08-2013, 07:22 AM
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yea, thanks turns out the threads are diffrent and I didnt notice at first I guess the supercoupe has bigger rods than a taurus, couger, mark 8 and continental. i needed to hook up a impala and tow straps to get that rod back into the hole. its ok though, i bought larger grade 8 nuts screwed em on as tight as I could and welded the MFers. If I need to take it back apart Im just going to cut them and find newisher ones.

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post #52 of 104 (permalink) Old 11-04-2014, 08:46 AM
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I need to do these on my 96 Cougar. Does anyone have experience with the srbs that SCP sells? They claim to be oem quality and design. Any input would be appreciated.
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post #53 of 104 (permalink) Old 11-04-2014, 08:59 AM
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Should have asked this in my previous post. Are the stainless sleeves still available frol DLF? If so, how do I get a set.
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post #54 of 104 (permalink) Old 11-04-2014, 03:52 PM
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Should have asked this in my previous post. Are the stainless sleeves still available frol DLF? If so, how do I get a set.
No, but since his death, Jay Richmond ( (98Mark8LSC on this forum ) has taken over making them.

(Don't sweat, how would you know about DLF's passing?)

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post #55 of 104 (permalink) Old 11-04-2014, 03:57 PM
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OEM quality and design = aftermarket junk. You'd just be paying SCP more money for the same junky bushings you get at Napa

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post #56 of 104 (permalink) Old 11-04-2014, 05:31 PM
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The Ferd bushing supply has dried up.So now what do we do?My Cougar will need new ones when I drag it out of hibernation.They have dry rotted and fell out.

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post #57 of 104 (permalink) Old 11-04-2014, 06:49 PM
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The bushings, or the bushing sets?

Sets are gone. The rubber bushings, however, were still available.

RwP

Fuelly
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post #58 of 104 (permalink) Old 11-05-2014, 02:47 PM
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The bushings, or the bushing sets?

Sets are gone. The rubber bushings, however, were still available.

RwP
My Ferd dealer say they're unavailable.

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post #59 of 104 (permalink) Old 11-05-2014, 06:22 PM
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Houston, I think we have a problem!

After seeing the post ben2go made yesterday, I placed an order with Tasca on the front and rear bushings and got an email today. E9SZ-3A140-B is now obsolete, discontinued from Ford.

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post #60 of 104 (permalink) Old 11-05-2014, 08:17 PM
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So now what do we do?There is so much suspension work that needs to be done to my car and so much unavailable quality parts that I am considering scraping the car.Plus my car is the basic of base models.It is a rare Blue Max edition but that don't mean anything,if I can't get the car driving again.Is there a company or fabricator that can make lower A arms to replace the control arm and strut rod set up?

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