Correct Way To Install Coil Springs - TCCoA Forums

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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
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Correct Way To Install Coil Springs

Which Way Do My Coil Springs Go??

We've all been there..You get it apart, and forgot how it goes back together..

I put together some pictures and information to help anyone who has ever been confused about that..

I hope this helps everyone..





Proper (Stock) Front Coil Spring Orientation..




Proper (Stock) Rear Coil Spring Orientation..





1989-1997 Thunderbirds/Cougars came from the factory with Progressive Rate Coil Springs..

Progressive Rate Coil Springs do intentionally touch one or more coils to reduce the number of active coils and increase the rate..

Progressive Rate Coil Springs deflect at different amounts per inch. An example would be: 300 lbs. = 1 inch deflection, 700 lbs. = 2 inch deflection, 1100 lbs. = 3 inch deflection, and so on.

Progressive Rate Coil Springs have a soft initial spring rate, and a much firmer spring rate to handle more weight, decrease sway, and improve handling.



All Progressive Rate Coil Springs...Factory(stock) or aftermarket will always be installed with the "tighter coils" on the top..


Some aftermarket lowering springs are installed differently..

Please contact the Manufacturer of those aftermarket lowering springs..If you are unsure about which way they should be installed..








Rayo..
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 04:55 AM
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Way to spring into action..........Oh that was bad

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 08:09 AM
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Way to spring into action..........Oh that was bad
Well, I guess sporting that new "flat top", he feels more spring in his step!

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 05:17 PM
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Great info to a never ending question rayo! Way to get a leg up! Lol

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-01-2013, 01:47 PM
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Good post, good to see this in pix.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 10:17 PM
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weird. Mine were installed upside down in the rears.

not like it makes a difference anyways

Last edited by guitar maestro; 02-07-2013 at 10:36 PM.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitar maestro View Post
weird. Mine were installed upside down in the rears.

not like it makes a difference anyways
Funny you mention that. When I pulled my sport springs, I also got the factory isolators. The bottom isolators rest in the LCA and there is a hole that gets impressed into the isolator. When I installed them, I looked and they were 'upside down' from the factory on the donor car. I already had them installed when I looked at this thread and had to dig them out and turn them over. I wonder how accurate this is for the rear springs? Does it really not matter? I have thought about turning them back the way they were ('upside down').

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 10:48 AM
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I didn't notice a top or bottom on my rear springs.
They "looked" identical.

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 10:54 AM
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I didn't notice a top or bottom on my rear springs.
They "looked" identical.
Then they were linears, and as long as both ends are the same diameter and shape, you're good.

SOME cars the two ends are different for different pocketing.

Otherwise, it really doesn't matter, although technically the deeper pockets on the bottom may cause binding with the tight coils at the bottom not the top. Don't think that actually happens on the TBirds/Cougars, but eh.

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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
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Then they were linears, and as long as both ends are the same diameter and shape, you're good.

SOME cars the two ends are different for different pocketing.

Otherwise, it really doesn't matter, although technically the deeper pockets on the bottom may cause binding with the tight coils at the bottom not the top. Don't think that actually happens on the TBirds/Cougars, but eh.

RwP
gotcha, thanks for clearing that up....I didn't even think about them being linear.

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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jco1385 View Post
Funny you mention that. When I pulled my sport springs, I also got the factory isolators. The bottom isolators rest in the LCA and there is a hole that gets impressed into the isolator. When I installed them, I looked and they were 'upside down' from the factory on the donor car. I already had them installed when I looked at this thread and had to dig them out and turn them over. I wonder how accurate this is for the rear springs? Does it really not matter? I have thought about turning them back the way they were ('upside down').
It doesn't matter what so ever.

Imagine a tiny tiny progressive coil spring 1" long that fits between your thumb and index finger and easily compressible. Say you compress it between your fingers. It doesn't matter whether the coil is up, or down, or any which possible orientation you can think of in 3D space---the "softer" coils will compress "more" than the rest; that is the whole premise behind it being a progressive spring in the first place.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by guitar maestro View Post
It doesn't matter what so ever.

Imagine a tiny tiny progressive coil spring 1" long that fits between your thumb and index finger and easily compressible. Say you compress it between your fingers. It doesn't matter whether the coil is up, or down, or any which possible orientation you can think of in 3D space---the "softer" coils will compress "more" than the rest; that is the whole premise behind it being a progressive spring in the first place.
Minor correction, which probably doesn't apply to OUR cars, but sure did back in my old 1963 Chevy days!

The bottom pocket was smaller than the top pocket - so yes, it did make a difference.

I do know the lower control arm has a pocket that the upper frame end doesn't have, but I don't know if it's possible to bind the tight springs in the LCA or not.

However, that's why the tight ones are supposed to go to the top ...

PRACTICALLY, it probably doesn't matter.

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 08:19 PM
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Makes no difference on these. The fronts are the only place where orientation matters.

-Matt
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-14-2013, 02:26 PM
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would this apply to aftermarket lowering springs? I don't have them in hand yet

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-14-2013, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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would this apply to aftermarket lowering springs? I don't have them in hand yet
Yes..If they are Progressive Rate Coil Springs they will always be installed with the "tighter coils" on the top..

Just remember though..On your (Front) aftermarket coil springs if one side is ground flat..The "flat part" of the spring will always be installed pointing up..



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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-14-2013, 04:11 PM
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Not that it matters, but the reason tighter coils are typically installed against the body is to reduce "unsprung" weight.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2013, 06:13 PM
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Didn't pay attention to the coils themselves, but when I installed my Eibachs I figured it would be a good idea to install them with the powdercoated "Eibach" logo right side up. Reasoned that if I were running a company manufacturing springs, I'd have the logo printed so it would be more easily readable...


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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2013, 07:51 PM
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Didn't pay attention to the coils themselves, but when I installed my Eibachs I figured it would be a good idea to install them with the powdercoated "Eibach" logo right side up. Reasoned that if I were running a company manufacturing springs, I'd have the logo printed so it would be more easily readable...
I have a set of Eibach's on the shelf here, and with the coils tighter at the top, the logo and printing are right side up. I would hope to assume it would be safe to use this logic, however I have personally installed a couple other brand sets of springs with the logo upside down to maintain the correct orientation.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-16-2013, 04:21 PM
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makes perfect sense to me!

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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-05-2014, 04:10 PM
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I purchased some spring compressors to find out that they will not work. They are too big and just will not fit.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ol-spring7.jpg



So which spring compressor will work for the rear springs?

Last edited by Jon Hall; 05-05-2014 at 08:18 PM.
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-05-2014, 05:03 PM
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Are you trying to get the rear springs out? Take a look here!

Joe

It's not a 97 Sport, it just looks like one!

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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-05-2014, 05:21 PM
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Are you trying to get the rear springs out? Take a look here!

Joe
I am trying to get the rear springs out, but in the junk yard there is no floor jack. Is it possible to compress the rear springs when they are in the car? I am trying to take out a LCA off a Mark VIII that had springs installed. Part of me wants to just undo the shock bolt and let if fly, but I know that's less than ideal.

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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-05-2014, 05:55 PM
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Can you bring your own jack? Is it off the ground? If it is, you should be able to get away with just unbolting the arm from the knuckle and then unbolt the sway bar link. Then climb into the trunk and unbolt the top shock nut.......you're out of the way if the spring flies!

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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-05-2014, 07:51 PM
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Can you bring your own jack? Is it off the ground? If it is, you should be able to get away with just unbolting the arm from the knuckle and then unbolt the sway bar link. Then climb into the trunk and unbolt the top shock nut.......you're out of the way if the spring flies!

Joe
Yeah probably will do that. However the trunk is closed and there is no battery to use the in car trunk release and no keys in sight.
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-05-2014, 08:09 PM
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Unbolt the rear seat and worm your way through there.

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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 08:42 AM
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What I always do in this situation is unbolt the UCA-splindle, take the top nut off of the swaybar link, and take off the nut on the lower shock bolt. It is loaded so be careful! Then I use my BFH to tap the shock bolt backwards out of the shock. Then use the same BFH to smack the shock forward off of the end of the bolt. It's a junkyard shock, it's likely bad anyways. Watch your feet! The spring shouldn't shoot out, but the LCA will swing down with force. YMMV

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