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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-20-2014, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Suspension Help

Here are some pics of my car, I want to fix up the suspension. What parts should I order.










Last edited by Rodeo Joe; 01-20-2014 at 05:50 PM. Reason: Added pictures
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-20-2014, 05:24 PM
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Do a few searches for the specifics related to each brand, but in general... avoid "value" brands and product lines such as Dorman and World Suspension. Find Motorcraft, TRW, Moog or Raybestos Professional Grade parts.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-20-2014, 07:13 PM
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See the boots gone on the sway bar end links, and the LBJ (Lower Ball Joint), so likely the UCA is the same.

I am going to say...every suspension and steering component with a bushing, ball joint, or boot. On the front, UCA (Upper Control Arms), LCA (Lower Control Arms), strut rod bushing, swaybar end links, swaybar bushings.

Can't really see the outer tie rod ends, I have never really dealt with bad inner ones.

In the rear at least the swaybar end links.

My 89 was nearly as...grungy and a couple of pressure washes later I no longer get so greasy doing simple things, and i think I fixed the oil leak (cork gaslets on the ends under the lower intake) and it really hate working on greasy cars any more.

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-21-2014, 12:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
Do a few searches for the specifics related to each brand, but in general... avoid "value" brands and product lines such as Dorman and World Suspension. Find Motorcraft, TRW, Moog or Raybestos Professional Grade parts.
While i haven't had problems with my Dorman UCAs, my car only sees track time a few times a year (granted, it's on the track for 7-8hrs/session).

I DO have experience with Raybestos Professional Grade strut assemblies... and it wasn't good. I used them on my 97 honda accord.

After <4 months of daily driving (100mi/day), they started squeaking severely. Raybestos via Rockauto.com did follow-through on the warranty (covering both the replacement part and the labor for replacement) but the replacement parts started squeaking again 3-4 months later. I ended up replacing the strut assemblies with KYB and didn't encounter any problems afterwards.

Bottom Line: I'd go with another brand besides Raybestos PG for strut assemblies.

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-21-2014, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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I dont think the pressure washer at the car wash will be enough to take out the grease. I had some seals replaced so it doesnt leak as bad as it used to. So far I have a UCA, Brake Booster, strut/coil spring mount assembly x2(monroe economy) for the front, shock absobers x2(Monroe). I plan on getting PBR brakes so I need to switch spindels so I am worried about buying the wrong parts.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-21-2014, 07:33 AM
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If your going to swap to the 93+ spindles, you will need different sway bar end links, that is the only difference.

Most car washes here do not allow you to do undercarriages, or even muddy vehicles. They have signs that say 30 dollar environmental fee for excessively dirty or washing anything that leaves grease, oil, or other contaminates. I haven't used a car wash in 20 years.

I have a Harbor Freight electric power washer (the low end one) and it did fine. I did scrape as much as I could so I wouldn't have a greasy mess left on the ground, and sprayed it all down with degreaser, and caught as much of the water as possible to dump elsewhere.

I had the heads off to do head gaskets, and got sick of getting filthy touching them, and pressure washed them. The machine shop I took them to for surfacing and valve seal replacement said that since they have been tanked already they wouldn't do it. I told them I wanted them tanked, as I just sprayed them off with a cheesy pressure washer, and they didn't believe me (it didn't have the dull etched tanked look, but even 90% of the carbon was gone).

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Last edited by Bangster; 01-21-2014 at 07:42 AM.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-21-2014, 02:46 PM
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I used the doorman UCA's on my car - and so far no issues. I bought the LCA's also, but, ended up not using them along.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 08:03 PM
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Just so you all know, Raybestos has changed their naming schemes. What was "Professional Grade" (their top of the line) is now called "Advanced Technology". Their middle line is now called "Professional Grade". I just bought all new suspension stuff for the front from Rock Auto, and elected to get the Pro Grade on the Raybestos parts since I only need it to last me 6mo to 1 yr anyways. Everyone else needs the "Advanced Technology" for longevity.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 08:12 PM
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Wait, what? You're buying suspension components? You actually have an MN12 that you're working on?

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
Wait, what? You're buying suspension components? You actually have an MN12 that you're working on?
not only that, working on lots of other things too It's a necessary evil that will pay great dividends later on.

Speaking of Dorman, some Dorman stuff that is absolutely 100% NOT junk. Front hub nuts. Solid 1pc with crushed threads----no more reusing stockers nor buying 1-time use multi-piece OEM nuts. $8.50ea on Ebay. Rears are also available, but mine came with new halfshafts already.
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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I got a list of stuff that I am going to buy but I just need a opinion on the outer tie rods. Here are some pics I started cleaning the grease off. http://s129.photobucket.com/user/Kev...44976.jpg.html http://s129.photobucket.com/user/Kev...a8090.jpg.html http://s129.photobucket.com/user/Kev...4fab5.jpg.html
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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O yea one more question do I need to buy 4 lower rear control arm bushings, I think thats what I see in the pic.http://s129.photobucket.com/user/Kev...0083e.jpg.html
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 06:46 PM
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O yea one more question do I need to buy 4 lower rear control arm bushings, I think thats what I see in the pic.http://s129.photobucket.com/user/Kev...0083e.jpg.html
On the low side, yes there are 4 bushings but the outside ones at the spindle are different than the inside ones that connect the LCA to the IRS subframe.
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 07:47 PM
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not only that, working on lots of other things too It's a necessary evil that will pay great dividends later on.

Speaking of Dorman, some Dorman stuff that is absolutely 100% NOT junk. Front hub nuts. Solid 1pc with crushed threads----no more reusing stockers nor buying 1-time use multi-piece OEM nuts. $8.50ea on Ebay. Rears are also available, but mine came with new halfshafts already.
Just FYI - A few years ago I posted about the dorman nuts - the threads were crushed so much that they destroyed threads on the spindle. Lucky I was able to file back the threads. Did that nut install ok?
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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I need some advice on replacing some tie rods(inner and outer). Is it a difficult job to do? And what brand should I get?





I think my worn out tie rods is causing my new rack and pinion bushings to wear out. I just want to make sure I get the job done right and get the right parts so I can have better handing.
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 08:04 AM
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not only that, working on lots of other things too It's a necessary evil that will pay great dividends later on.

Speaking of Dorman, some Dorman stuff that is absolutely 100% NOT junk. Front hub nuts. Solid 1pc with crushed threads----no more reusing stockers nor buying 1-time use multi-piece OEM nuts. $8.50ea on Ebay. Rears are also available, but mine came with new halfshafts already.
I recently did front hubs on my car and was sold these Dorman nuts. I returned one and warrantied the other. As noted by someone else, they tear up the threads on the spindle. Also, and more importantly in my mind, I COULD NOT get them to torque properly. As soon as the crushed part of the thread contacted the spindle threads it would take more than 250ft/lb to move, therefore not allowing proper torquing of the nuts once in place.
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-28-2014, 04:51 PM
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Kevin,

I own a Napa Auto Parts store. Let me recommend ordering the factory service manual for your t-bird. Contact Helm Publication. 1(800) 782-4356. They will charge you the same price they charge me. This will help you with all aspects of the car. Also there is a wiring supplimental manual. Get that manual as well.
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-30-2014, 10:03 AM
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-30-2014, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbirdguy View Post
Just FYI - A few years ago I posted about the dorman nuts - the threads were crushed so much that they destroyed threads on the spindle. Lucky I was able to file back the threads. Did that nut install ok?
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Originally Posted by emrldrvn View Post
I recently did front hubs on my car and was sold these Dorman nuts. I returned one and warrantied the other. As noted by someone else, they tear up the threads on the spindle. Also, and more importantly in my mind, I COULD NOT get them to torque properly. As soon as the crushed part of the thread contacted the spindle threads it would take more than 250ft/lb to move, therefore not allowing proper torquing of the nuts once in place.


Sorry, didn't see this reply. I had tried it out, and it worked out good. Break-away torque was roughly 30-40 Ft*lbs once the crushes threads made contact, not certainly not 250 ft*lbs. Threads on my spindle were fine after I removed it.
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-30-2014, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced the tie rods, it wasn't very difficult at all. Now the car steers alot better now.






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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-30-2014, 08:26 PM
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Something I need to do on my rides for sure...

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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
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I think my passenger side spindle needs to be replaced, it was missing the bearing cap. I think it was rusted out along with the original bearing. I drove up my ramps to see if I could see the bearing cap, but its alot more noticeable when the car is up on a lift.

This is the bad side without the cap, I plan on getting my spindle replaced but it seems hard to find the spindle with the cap.

Last edited by KEVIN8989; 03-20-2017 at 01:27 AM.
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 01:29 AM
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Those look like the REAR spindles with the axle through them; they don't have a bearing cap.

Or rather, the factory spindle nut replaces the bearing cap.

I don't think you can find the spindle; however, the bearings, bearing retainer, and hub are all available from RockAuto (and "the other usual suspects".)

Some folks have no problem doing the pressing out and in; I have a local machine shop do mine.

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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 01:45 AM Thread Starter
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I plan on ordering a used spindle off of car-part.com. Its like a craigslist for junkyards listing their parts that they sell. I had the hub and the bearing replaced but still séems to wobble a little bit. Ill also look for a bearing retainer, that should fix it.

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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 02:23 AM Thread Starter
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I just ordered the retainer, thats whats missing on that side. The retainer must have been what behind the spindle shielding the bearing.
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 04:58 AM
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*blink*

No, now you'll need to replace the bearing, and possibly the hub, again.

But the retainer is a small slip that fits in to help hold the bearing into the hub; otherwise, you could stress it right out the back on hard cornering.

Here's what it looks like in the package: http://www.rockauto.com/info/118/RET115-A.jpg

If with new bearings it's still loose, then either it wasn't properly retained with the axle nut, or the hub itself is worn; that's a HUB88, and RockAuto also has those; I just had to replace mine due to the axle nut working loose on the driver's side (!!!)

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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 04:08 PM
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When you replace the bearings, one of the inner races is a slip-fit on the hub, so face it to the inside, by the CV joint.

(The bearings all like that, regardless of MFR, and I've done 6 knuckles so far.)

Torquing the wheel down Properly stuffs the two inner races together, preventing any motion of the inner race.

The only way to go too tight here is by stripping the threads, and I stand on the 35mm x3/4" ratchet to tighten them with no problems.

Like Ralph said, don't leave the retainer out.

As far as I know, there is no bearing cap on the rear; the hub bearings themselves have steel seals on the outsides to keep the grease in.

The front is open, and needs grease in the cup.

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