Recommended Suspension Bushings for MN12's and FN10's - Page 2 - TCCoA Forums

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post #31 of 65 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not certain what you mean by OEM specs and sizing. These are bolt on parts, but it's visually obvious that they are not exactly the same as stock. The aftermarket diff covers will work with the stock or alternative rear mount, but they negate both the necessity and the ability to use a diff cover brace.
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post #32 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-14-2014, 03:54 PM
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Quick question. I ordered the moog k8562 rear uca bushings which are the not so good to use bushings. Ford doesnt offer the originals anymore and i need to get this car moved. I have the eibach pro kit on it and the good side was adjusted all the way out at the top. The other side was pretty much ruined. If i install those moog bushings both all the way out when put them on the car considering the drop do you think they will be ok if they need very minor adjustment? Thanks!

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post #33 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-14-2014, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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The design flaw in those inner rear UCA bushings has nothing to do with adjustment. They don't allow movement of the UCA without windup. I would recommend returning them and purchasing a set of the correct design. Regardless, you will need an alignment after touching the inner UCA bolt.

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post #34 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-14-2014, 04:50 PM
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Ok gotcha. Thanks!

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post #35 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-14-2014, 09:51 PM
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Is there a specific way to contact Bill at SCP or is there a part number for the factory bushings? Thanks!

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post #36 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-16-2014, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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You should be able to contact Bill through his site. RockAuto is another source, as it seems everyone has had good luck with the Raybestos version. Others have gone the local auto parts store route, opening the boxes before purchase to confirm that they're buying the correct design.
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post #37 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 06:22 PM
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You the man rod! 15 dollars for the correct bushing and we want 56 dollars for the not so correct bushing. Thanks!

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post #38 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Who's selling them for $15? That's awfully cheap for those bushings.

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post #39 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racecougar View Post
Who's selling them for $15? That's awfully cheap for those bushings.

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post #40 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-19-2014, 05:44 PM
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Had them on Rockauto for that under the Raybestos and the picture matched the design. That was without shipping of course.

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post #41 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-19-2014, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLINTHUNDER View Post
Had them on Rockauto for that under the Raybestos and the picture matched the design. That was without shipping of course.
Only $15 rear bushing I saw was the rear upper control arm to knuckle. The $56 bushing appears to be the correct rear upper arm to frame side bushing. Hoping you didn't order the wrong one by mistake.

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post #42 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-19-2014, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLINTHUNDER View Post
Had them on Rockauto for that under the Raybestos and the picture matched the design. That was without shipping of course.
What part number did you purchase? It should be 5701001. The Raybestos bushings listed on RockAuto in the $15 range are all for locations other than the rear inner UCA.

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post #43 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-20-2014, 02:59 PM
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May have looked at the wrong one. Will look again once I get home. If so I apologize. Didn't want to get anyones hopes up. May not have to worry about it if I can't figure out what to do about my rear shock towers rusting out. Its not the mounts, just the metal they're attached to. But that's another topic.

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post #44 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-20-2014, 07:27 PM
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How much of a PITA is it to swap the inner rear UCA bushings out?

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post #45 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-20-2014, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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It isn't difficult. Press the center out, then cave the shell in with a chisel and it drops out. The new bushings press right in place.

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post #46 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-21-2014, 02:46 PM
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Dont know if this will be of any use to anyone but..... I ordered two IRS bushing sets for an 03 IRS Cobra because our computers here at Advance Auto didnt give a clear description between the two. Energy suspension numbers 4.4116R IRS subframe set is what it is labeled and 4.3161R IRS bushing set is the other. Neither of which fits the Mark VIII knuckles.

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post #47 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-28-2014, 08:53 AM
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Is there anything else needed to know when installing the zerk fittings in these knuckles? Just drill the hole, thread it the size of the fitting? was wondering how the grease would get all the way round the bushings.

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post #48 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-28-2014, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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What bushings are you working with? The Delrin knuckle bushings shown in this writeup were designed to be greasable, as they left a small grease passage between the bushing halves along with grease grooves in the I.D.

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post #49 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-29-2014, 06:42 PM
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Ive got a question:
Where did you put the zerk fittings? I'm talking Angle to the flat part, I know where the grease goes.

It above better than below, or neither, or is there a "Best Spot"?

I am currently modding a set of knuckles and mark rear arms; Poly and delrin.

OT: RaceCougar, you ever make aluminum mark spring mounts?
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post #50 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-29-2014, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Ive got a question:
Where did you put the zerk fittings? I'm talking Angle to the flat part, I know where the grease goes.

It above better than below, or neither, or is there a "Best Spot"?

I am currently modding a set of knuckles and mark rear arms; Poly and delrin.

OT: RaceCougar, you ever make aluminum mark spring mounts?
Really, as long as they're accessible, you're set. You can see where I placed them on my car in the pics below. I placed them in the same spots on Neibert's '91 SC, as well.




I have, but I don't intend to in the future.
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post #51 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-29-2014, 08:45 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Man, Rod; Your car is so beautiful

I understand about the perches.

I'm sure I've already told you that if you make another set of that bracing, I want a set.

I hate that I couldn't afford to buy two last time.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
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post #52 of 65 (permalink) Old 10-30-2014, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you very much.

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post #53 of 65 (permalink) Old 11-02-2014, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
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OT: RaceCougar, you ever make aluminum mark spring mounts?
just order some Delrin ones from Jay. Does nice work, and incredibly fast considering he has a newborn in the family.
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post #54 of 65 (permalink) Old 11-25-2014, 02:01 PM
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Finally got all my bushings together. Two questions. First, the upper inner control arm bushing faces which direction or does it matter? Second. My Energy Suspension knuckle kit has 3 different size bushings in it. It has a 2 piece bushing im thinking goes at the top. The 2 bottom ones, one is bigger than the other. Does the bigger of the 2 goes towards the rear of the car? They will all fit the spindles. The parts that are sticking out once you put them in is what im talking about being different sizes. Thanks!

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post #55 of 65 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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The upper inner rear control arm bushings press into the control arms from one direction. The bushing flange should mate up to the flat side of the control arm, not the side with the lip.

Please post pictures of the knuckle bushings you're working with to illustrate the issue.
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post #56 of 65 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 09:48 PM
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I never have figured out how to post pictures but the part number is 4.3163G. Hope that helps.Just didn't want to stick them in the wrong locations then tear them up getting them back out. Thanks!

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post #57 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-07-2014, 04:45 PM
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Front sway bar

Do you still need to use the spacer that addco provides if you use the energy suspensions bushing and clamp
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post #58 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-07-2014, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Not with the 1-1/4" front bar. If you're running the 1-3/8" bar, you may need to use one spacer to get the split-lock collars to clear the K-member.

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94 LX w/Splitport 3.8L from 2000 Mustang - SOLD
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post #59 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015, 03:11 PM
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for the rear sway bar bushings, what size bolts should I use for the mounting bracket?

The front Energy Suspension bushing kit (9.5169) just bolts in, right? No other stuff needed? I'm redoing all of my sway bar bushings and retaining my stock bars.

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post #60 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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I used two of the stock rear mount bolts on each side. I'd have to pull one to tell you what thread and length they are.

Yes, 9.5169 will bolt directly in if you're running a 1-1/16" front sway bar.

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90 XR7-The Meth Addict-KB SC'd 5.0L DOHC Stroker
2004 Mustang GT-The Driver-Intake/Exhaust/3.73's
1995 F150 4x4-The Mud Toy-5.0L/4R70W/33's/Warn 8274 Winch
94 LX w/Splitport 3.8L from 2000 Mustang - SOLD
2 - 90 35th Anny Ed SC's
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