Front UCA Forging, swappable? - TCCoA Forums

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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Front UCA Forging, swappable?

Some of you may know already about my unfortunate driver side front UCA saga, which to summarize, since my birthday back in October, I've been getting the wrong part inside a box labeled for what I've been ordering, the ACDelco 45D1001. This unit is the front driver side UCA.

I am now on my 7th unit, and the issue, I've determined, is with ACDelco and not with the vendors. I've purchased from RockAuto, Amazon, and Summit all with the same issue; a box labeled ACDelco 45D1001 but something entirely different is in the box. Well, on this 7th unit I received I actually received a 45D1002, the front passenger side UCA. Everything else up until this one has been something else entirely from Mevotech, ACDelco value series, etc. I've already submitted a return request with RockAuto on this latest unit (where I ordered from again) and they've also accepted to refund the original passenger UCA 45D1002 from back in October.

This said, I've noticed that the 45D1001 and 45D1002 are basically the same hardware in terms of the arm and ball joint with the only difference is the orientation of the ball joint. If I were to have this ball joint on this 45D1002 I just received pressed out, flipped over, and pressed back in, this UCA will essentially be the 45D1001 I've been trying to order all this time. After talking to a friend of mine who owns a shop, he has has offered to press out / press in the ball joint for me if I can verify that the arm itself is otherwise identical, which to me appears to be so (I don't have them in front of me, but based on the pictures I've seen, this is what it looks like to me). This is where my questions comes in....

Are the left / right side UCAs identical in build with the orientation of the ball joint the only determining factor as to which side the UCA goes on? If so, would you guys go ahead and have my friend do this job for me or go with the refund of the ACDelco UCAs and get a different product all together?

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 06:44 AM
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Sorry man, they aren't the same. To do what you're saying they would essentially be shaped like an equilateral triangle. Unfortunately they are closer to the idea of a right triangle.

Regarding pressing them out; I've tried that too. I didn't have any luck with my 20 ton press. I admit that I didn't try very hard but it sure didn't seem like it was moving at the least.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDsDontBurn
If so, would you guys go ahead and have my friend do this job for me or go with the refund of the ACDelco UCAs and get a different product all together?
IMO..I would just return the ACDelco UCAs for a refund..Not worth the aggravation..

Ford (Front Upper Control Arms) are still available new, so that would by my suggestion..
Takes out all the guesswork of finding a matching set of UCAs, or trying to press ball joints/bushings out/in..

PartsGeek.com is great when it comes to TRW/Ford parts for our cars..TRW being the OEM for Ford..

Here's a link to the TRW Front Upper Control Arms:

TRW Front Upper Control Arm (Left)
TRW Front Upper Control Arm (Right)





Rayo..

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayo View Post
IMO..I would just return the ACDelco UCAs for a refund..Not worth the aggravation..

Ford (Front Upper Control Arms) are still available new, so that would by my suggestion..
Takes out all the guesswork of finding a matching set of UCAs, or trying to press ball joints/bushings out/in..

PartsGeek.com is great when it comes to TRW/Ford parts for our cars..TRW being the OEM for Ford..

Here's a link to the TRW Front Upper Control Arms:

TRW Front Upper Control Arm (Left)
TRW Front Upper Control Arm (Right)





Rayo..
Really, the only advantage of the AC Delco units is the greasable joint. Considering that the OEM units last 100,000 miles typically, and it's not an expensive part, and really only time consuming on the old pain in the butt to change meter, is it worth two whole months of dealing with AC Delco's crap?

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 10:32 PM
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IME the factory sealed uppers are good for 70K at best, if they hold up to 100K they probably have 50K of debris lodged under the long gone boots(in contrast my lowers are still stock tight and sealed at 100k+ miles). I can never keep track of who makes the fat arms with the universal ball joint(they were raybestos pro but they changed the hierarchy) but if those are what the AC delcos are now then the ball joint should be pressable, which is a minor advantage. None of the other OEM style designs can have the joints pressed out

-Matt
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 02:07 PM
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As said on the FB page, I'd just order the better-grade Mevotech units and be done with it.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaddMartigan View Post
Sorry man, they aren't the same. To do what you're saying they would essentially be shaped like an equilateral triangle. Unfortunately they are closer to the idea of a right triangle.

Regarding pressing them out; I've tried that too. I didn't have any luck with my 20 ton press. I admit that I didn't try very hard but it sure didn't seem like it was moving at the least.
45D1001 - Driver Side



45D1002 - Passenger Side



Left and right look entirely identical except that the casting is flipped. That said. Who can tell which one was flipped?



My cost to have this done was just $10. All the pics I see of all the other driver vs passenger side UCAs appear to have the same casting. With the ball joint orientation being the only determining factor of which side these are installed to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodman View Post
Really, the only advantage of the AC Delco units is the greasable joint. Considering that the OEM units last 100,000 miles typically, and it's not an expensive part, and really only time consuming on the old pain in the butt to change meter, is it worth two whole months of dealing with AC Delco's crap?
If my above solution doesn't work out, I'll just eat the cost toss these entirely and get a new set of Mevotech or TRW / FoMoCo units as others have stated. If I end up eating the cost, It'll be one of those "learned the hard way" type of lessons for me. It's what I get for being persistent! :p

Quote:
Originally Posted by racecougar View Post
As said on the FB page, I'd just order the better-grade Mevotech units and be done with it.
I know. But I was also getting tired of having to ship stuff back and forth. Since I got the part from the manufacturer of the same series but wrong side, and the ball joint was pressable, I ended up just doing that so I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 03:37 PM
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Long story short; as-is they aren't flippable. If you can remove the ball joint and reinstall it then they are obviously flippable.

I actually managed to get the AC Delco ones correctly so, when/if the time comes, I should hopefully be able to get ball joints and press in new ones.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 08:26 PM
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I looked at my front UCAs and on my driver side, it looks like the grease fitting was busted off at some point (I had slapped a piece of duct tape on top to prevent crap from getting in).

Since I'm planning to buy a grease gun in the next few days and grease up everything (it's amazing how many of my bits have grease fittings that I've just ignored, I'm thinking about replacing this fitting.

I could take off the driver side UCA but before I do so (since I don't think removing it will be necessary to replace this fitting unless I'm drilling it out...

Q: does anyone have any idea of the typical size of these grease fittings on front UCAs?

Two popular threadings available in the US are 1/4"-28 or 1/8" NPT.
I suspect it's 1/8" NPT since it looks smaller than the fitting on by brake but it could also be M6-1.0 as well (another fitting available from Rockauto).

Regards,
-g

UPDATE: nevermind. I got bored enough tonight that I loosened the nuts on the UCA and took a look myself. I measured a hole of .19" which means I can probably clean it up with a 1/4"-28 tap and screw that fitting right on.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 11:04 AM
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Nice observation on the arms. I was able to get two passenger side acdelco's on Amazon for $18. Flipped one and installed this weekend, worked perfectly.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
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Nice observation on the arms. I was able to get two passenger side acdelco's on Amazon for $18. Flipped one and installed this weekend, worked perfectly.
Did you press the ball joint out? Pictures?

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 03:47 PM
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I didn't take any pictures before I put it on. I pulled off the boot and snap ring. Then i used a hydraulic press to pushed it out, fipped it over and put it back together. I layed the old over the new and there was no difference that I could see. Bolted right back into place.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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The ACDelco Pro ball joints are available on RockAuto.

More Information for ACDELCO 45D0114

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 01:28 PM
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The ACDelco Pro ball joints are available on RockAuto.

More Information for ACDELCO 45D0114
The are also available on Amazon and are cheaper. Amazon ACDelco Pro ball joints

Also, great catch.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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For that price though, you might as well buy the whole control arm. Though, one would be risking the whole fiasco I came across of having to do 7 RMAs and 2 months time in order to get something "somewhat" correct in order to correct the manufacturer's mistake....

ACDelco 45D1001 Professional Front Driver Side Upper Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly

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