Rough estimate for complete suspension overhaul with labor? - TCCoA Forums

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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Rough estimate for complete suspension overhaul with labor?

What is rough estimate on having suspension redone front and back with labor? Everything on my bird appears original minus shocks and springs, so minus that.

Black '96 TBird - Dynotech 3.5" MMX DS, SCP mounts and brackets, Art Carr 4R70W transmission, DirtyDog 2800 stall TC, true dual exhaust w/FlowMonster mufflers, 3.73 gears
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 05:36 PM
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Call up your local ford dealer, they should be able to give you an exact answer.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 08:42 PM
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Forget the stealerships!

Basic Shocks: $300
Front Swaybar end links: $100
Front Upper control Arms: $200
Lower Control Arms: $200

Alignment: $100

Should be able to get this done for $1000 or less - Labor included. Probably less than that. I'e got a spreadsheet of what I spent on mine. I'll look it up later.

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Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

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See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-22-2017, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey View Post
Forget the stealerships!

Basic Shocks: $300
Front Swaybar end links: $100
Front Upper control Arms: $200
Lower Control Arms: $200

Alignment: $100

Should be able to get this done for $1000 or less - Labor included. Probably less than that. I'e got a spreadsheet of what I spent on mine. I'll look it up later.
If you've got a spreadsheet that would be great! Is that factoring in all the bushings, etc.?

Black '96 TBird - Dynotech 3.5" MMX DS, SCP mounts and brackets, Art Carr 4R70W transmission, DirtyDog 2800 stall TC, true dual exhaust w/FlowMonster mufflers, 3.73 gears
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-22-2017, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lurch View Post
If you've got a spreadsheet that would be great! Is that factoring in all the bushings, etc.?
There's actually a sticky; you can use the part numbers there against RockAuto, JCWhitney, Advance, AutoZone, et al.

A few items are not just orderable, however; Jay Richmond ( 98Mark8LSC here, but he responds quicker on Facebook) makes the steel portion of the strut rod to frame bushings, for instance. He also has stock on the front bushing rubbers. But everything else just about is orderable from "The Usual Suspects."

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-22-2017, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey View Post
Forget the stealerships!

Basic Shocks: $300
Front Swaybar end links: $100
Front Upper control Arms: $200
Lower Control Arms: $200

Alignment: $100

Should be able to get this done for $1000 or less - Labor included. Probably less than that. I'e got a spreadsheet of what I spent on mine. I'll look it up later.
Wow, I spent like 1/4 that..I got a whole front end kit and rear end kit for under 300$ . I can't vouch for quality as I only drove the car for 2 years after but it was on rails until I sold it..
You could take this opportunity to upgrade to mark8 rears, in willing to bet someone on here has a set to sell.
And man, one these mn12s get steering rebuilt, imo for what they are they handle awesome.

I WANT TO TRADE a 75mm throttlebody and exremly ported vic plenum and a set of 24lb injectors FOR a pi intake and alternator bracket and hopefully valleytube and nipple, pm me!!!
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-22-2017, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lurch View Post
What is rough estimate on having suspension redone front and back with labor? Everything on my bird appears original minus shocks and springs, so minus that.
How handy are you with a wrench, and how much time do you have?

It's a weekend job to do the upper control arms, lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods. Not sure about strut rods, I haven't had to do them yet. An 18mm Ratcheting wrench is your friend on the upper control arms, all the parts are readily available, and you can do the work yourself, learn a thing or two, and save a ton of money.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-22-2017, 01:30 PM
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$1000, lol! I don't see how you're getting out of a shop for less than $1200-1300. And even then, that may include sub-par parts.

The only way you can guarantee good parts that will last is to buy them yourself.

Al
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-22-2017, 03:25 PM
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If you do everything (upper and lower control arms, strut rod bushings (I know, don't use the ones listed below, use the good ones our members make, they're in here just for comparison) including the hubs and tie rod ends, you're looking at just north of $500 in parts.

Then, the labor involved will be very expensive.

Do it yourself, it's really not so bad. I did the uppers on my first one in a dirt driveway over the course of a weekend.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Front Suspension 1.pdf (173.4 KB, 7 views)
File Type: pdf Front Suspension 2.pdf (156.6 KB, 4 views)
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 09:13 PM
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Do all you can then pay to have done what you can't..I've been there a few times.
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I WANT TO TRADE a 75mm throttlebody and exremly ported vic plenum and a set of 24lb injectors FOR a pi intake and alternator bracket and hopefully valleytube and nipple, pm me!!!
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 94badbird View Post
Wow, I spent like 1/4 that..I got a whole front end kit and rear end kit for under 300$ . I can't vouch for quality as I only drove the car for 2 years after but it was on rails until I sold it..
You could take this opportunity to upgrade to mark8 rears, in willing to bet someone on here has a set to sell.
And man, one these mn12s get steering rebuilt, imo for what they are they handle awesome.
Those are rough estimates and I factored labor into the totals. Yes, of course the parts alone can be had for less (you get what you pay for thought) and labor costs can vary.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lurch View Post
If you've got a spreadsheet that would be great! Is that factoring in all the bushings, etc.?
Sorry, you'll have to wait until I get home in a few days. I don't have it with me right now.

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 02-23-2017 at 10:28 PM. Reason: Merge posts
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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If I want to get 1.6 lowering springs what do I need (or should) replace in front & back? I've read shorter end links in rear, but not sure which to go with. AND, should I be replacing the sway bar(s) while I'm doing this or are stock OK as-is?

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 11:51 PM
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Stock is fine. If you want to beef up the anti-sway bar system get the one and a quarter (1-1/4") bar for the back and call it good. I think I've got some shorter end links for the back anti-swaybar in the garage that I could sell you. When I get home I'll look.

You'll also want to replace the rear spring cups. Laurel Mountain Mustang used to sell them but I think they're out of business.

You can get them here for a good price. http://www.lethalperformance.com/max...isolators.html

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 12:54 AM
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Autozones usually carry an assortment of energy suspension endlink kits on the shelves, just measure the distance between the control arm and the sway bar in the flat position to determine the length you need. I could be wrong but I think Addco comes with a set if you go that route, I know for sure they have their own kits but it's the same design as the ES stuff.

-Matt
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 02:36 AM
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That's right. Addco supplies a set with their bar. That's why I've got an extra set in the garage. It's been so long since I bought mine I forgot about that.

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 10:01 AM
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Beating TM on this one! I'm in the slooooowwwww process of parts gathering for suspension myself right now, and here's my list. As far as I know, it's complete, but the pros like TM may have some additional input. Mind you, I'm looking to make my car handle my style of driving as well as future track days. Also, my $2,350 cost does not include shipping costs, so if you factor that in, it'll probably be more like $2,600 or maybe more. And of course, this is just a parts list so shop costs will need to be included on top of all this for any work that you don't do yourself, that is, if you do any of it yourself.



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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Autozones usually carry an assortment of energy suspension endlink kits on the shelves, just measure the distance between the control arm and the sway bar in the flat position to determine the length you need. I could be wrong but I think Addco comes with a set if you go that route, I know for sure they have their own kits but it's the same design as the ES stuff.
That's right. Addco supplies a set with their bar. That's why I've got an extra set in the garage. It's been so long since I bought mine I forgot about that.
So there's no need in purchasing end links with the ADDCO bars? Is this true for front / back bars?
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 05:36 PM
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Good spreadsheet there CDs.

I can only speak for the rear ADDCO bar - I didn't replace the front. But, yes. The rear bar comes with a set of end links.
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Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 10:30 PM
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The front bar will not come with a set of end links.
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
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Good spreadsheet there CDs.

I can only speak for the rear ADDCO bar - I didn't replace the front. But, yes. The rear bar comes with a set of end links.
The front bar will not come with a set of end links.
Thanks guys about the info on end links. Let me know if there's anything I'm missing for a full and complete build sheet. I now know that I won't need the end links for the rear but I will for the front, so I've updated my list on that. For example, I'm curious to know about bump stops. Will those be included with the Tokicos when I buy them, or will I have to purchase them separately? If I purchase them separately, what would be the best ones to get?

Any other little details that I'm missing on my build sheet? Like, I'm looking to do a complete R&R of everything suspension related. She needs to be able to handle pretty much right out of the alignment gate (see what I did there).

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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 05:51 PM
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Both Tokicos and Konis came with bump stops; not to say yours will, but they should.
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post #21 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 09:19 AM
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Ok, I made it home yesterday so here's my suspension spreadsheet, with the bonus of what I spent on my Cobra brakes. I installed the UCAs, rear anti-swaybar, shocks and springs myself. Rob installed the brakes and front and rear LCAs.

I took the front shocks to a local Goodyear shop to have the springs compressed onto the shocks before I installed the assembly.

These numbers are a few years old but the amounts shouldn't be too far off.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Suspension.jpg (151.1 KB, 3 views)

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 02-28-2017 at 09:27 AM.
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