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post #31 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 04:18 PM
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post #32 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 04:30 PM
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Moar?
As in "My stang needz to be moar stif cause wit my new CAI I'm makin make moar powah."

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post #33 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 06:19 PM
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Moar?
That's the interwebz way of saying "more".

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post #34 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 06:45 PM
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Ah, thanks guys.

I thought I was up to speed on all the Interwebz slang but that's a new one on me.
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Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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post #35 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Found the Vogtland 1.6 inch drops #953058 for 217 on Amazon.

Just playing the waiting game now. I know I need rear springs isolators, I was thinking of using the stock used ones but I'd be stupid to since they're probably old and deformed and since I'm take the old springs out I might as well change those out too. I know some suggest the fancy Prothane stuff but I feel like a simple rubber isolator would do since it has no actual function besides for NVH correct?

Also any other knick knacks that I'd need for this job? New hardware? Quirks? Tips and tricks?
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post #36 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 11:53 AM
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Why not just get the MK8 LCAs and get the spring isolators for those like I've done since you seem to be getting yourself deeper into this?

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post #37 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Why not just get the MK8 LCAs and get the spring isolators for those like I've done since you seem to be getting yourself deeper into this?
Have some LCAs for sale cause I'd be willing to!
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post #38 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 11:18 AM
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I myself do not, but they are plentiful. I see people parting out MK8s all day long on the FB MN12-FN10 for sale page. You can probably get them for around $100+ shipping, maybe less?

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post #39 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Yikes. Was quoted 10 hours of labor for front? control arms, and putting in my new springs/shocks/struts. 820 dollars. That's way too high. I think I'll do it myself. If I'm going to put in nearly a 1000 dollars into labor I'd rather buy a car lift so I don't have to spend a penny on labor for my 3 other cars.

Tell me, is that reasonable? $820 for labor, when parts are being provided?
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post #40 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 06:25 PM
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Yikes. Was quoted 10 hours of labor for front? control arms, and putting in my new springs/shocks/struts. 820 dollars. That's way too high. I think I'll do it myself. If I'm going to put in nearly a 1000 dollars into labor I'd rather buy a car lift so I don't have to spend a penny on labor for my 3 other cars.

Tell me, is that reasonable? $820 for labor, when parts are being provided?
I got both front control arms, the rear knuckles, Axles, and Front and rear shocks put on for ~$400, by providing complete parts and assemblies.

That included a 4 wheel alignment.

It took them 4 hours, including the alignment.

I spent about an hour during the quote; I had him throw it up on the lift, and showed him and his main mechanic all the tricks on these cars.

All those parts have to be unbolted to do the front or rear suspensions; done in the right way, you simply unbolt everything and then reassemble it.

The tip on the 18mm ratcheting wrench saved a bunch over the factory process.



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post #41 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ikutoisahobo View Post
Yikes. Was quoted 10 hours of labor for front? control arms, and putting in my new springs/shocks/struts. 820 dollars. That's way too high. I think I'll do it myself. If I'm going to put in nearly a 1000 dollars into labor I'd rather buy a car lift so I don't have to spend a penny on labor for my 3 other cars.

Tell me, is that reasonable? $820 for labor, when parts are being provided?
I got both front control arms, the rear knuckles, Axles, and Front and rear shocks put on for ~$400, by providing complete parts and assemblies.

That included a 4 wheel alignment.

It took them 4 hours, including the alignment.

I spent about an hour during the quote; I had him throw it up on the lift, and showed him and his main mechanic all the tricks on these cars.

All those parts have to be unbolted to do the front or rear suspensions; done in the right way, you simply unbolt everything and then reassemble it.

The tip on the 18mm ratcheting wrench saved a bunch over the factory process.



Walter is missed dearly everyday. RIP, dude.
Heck, half this stuff seems really straight forward. I don't see why 1100 was quoted then I had an approximate $300 "discount". Honestly, the second I heard that I knew it was a crock of shit. Asked for my keys and went back home. "We'll pretty much be doing a full suspension overhaul" my ass.

Got another quote from a mobile mechanic (ASE certified) for 340. I could probably get that down to 300.

Also could you let me in on these tips and tricks? I think I'll help my mechanic out.
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post #42 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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I need rear spring isolators, I don't care if they are OEM, Poly or whatever. I just can't find them on rockauto and the ones at AutoZone and Oreillys are generic parts. Will they still fit/work?

Also the swaybar bushings I want to get are the Moog K90402, dunno what size rear swaybar comes on a 97 V8 regular LX.

Let me know ASAP.
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post #43 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 09:21 AM
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Are you using the stock LCAs or did you get the MK8 LCAs? If the MK8 LCAs, it's the Prothane 6-1709 isolators.

https://www.amazon.com/Prothane-6-17...8EEE15RTYKRCPC

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post #44 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Stock LCAs, what's the isolators for the stock LCA?

Also the Tech Article on rear swaybar sizes doesn't make sense. Rockauto has rear swaybar bushings for all sizes but that 24mm that's supposedly on a V8 TBird.
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post #45 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 04:34 PM
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Same. Only problem with them in stock LCAs is the polys will jack the rear up slightly, with them on the Mark VIII arms with their deeper cups they'll be about level without need for perches.

They are 99-04 Mustang Cobra LCA side(NOT the upper perch) isolators, so whatever works with those will work on these.

-Matt
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post #46 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 05:11 PM
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On one of my Cougars with Mark viii arms I bought some delrin isolator so from someone here it jacked up the rear a little bit higher.
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post #47 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input guys. Also on the swaybar question I had. The tech article on swaybar sizes says a 97 4.6 would have a .96 inch swaybar which translates to 24.38mm. Every rear bushing I see on Rockauto is either 26mm or 27mm or 28mm. I don't want a whole two millimeters of wiggle in my bushing lol...
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post #48 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 02:43 PM
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Get yourself a $9.99 digital caliper from harbor freight and measure the bar. I wouldn't trust that chart.

Energy suspension has a better selection of their poly bushings, you need to make some metal extensions for the rear bolts but they work great

-Matt
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post #49 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 03:33 PM
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Get yourself a $9.99 digital caliper from harbor freight and measure the bar. I wouldn't trust that chart.

Energy suspension has a better selection of their poly bushings, you need to make some metal extensions for the rear bolts but they work great

1) Totally agree on the HF caliper. It's a "good enough" tool and mine has stayed alive for 6-7 years now.

2) You do? For I just reused my stock bushing brackets w/ the energy suspension bushings for both my 0.91" and 0.94" OD rear swaybar as the ES supplied bushing doesn't have the tab to latch onto the rear subframe -- just a bolt hole which I assume you mean to suggest adding a nut on the other side. Reusing the stock bushing brackets means you lose the neat grease fitting but it's easy enough to undo the bracket and squirt more grease into it without uninstalling the entire bar in the future (FWIW, entire bar removal isn't hard, either).

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post #50 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I've needed a digital caliper for other things before....I guess I'll get one now, I see coupons on it all the time on the HF website. I don't trust the article either. I'll look into the ES bushings. Can I just use a washer and a nut on the frame side instead of a bracket?
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post #51 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 06:35 PM
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I didn't think the stock bracket would fit the bushings. Definitely a good option, and I agree zerks there are unnecessary, they're more convenient in the front

Plates should prevent the new brackets from smooshing into the wide slot when you tighten it down. A washer and nut would work on the top. This is what Racecougar did, very simple



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post #52 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 12:33 AM
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ES Sizes
energysuspension.com | Sway Bar & End Link Bushings

For my 0.91" bar I bought 95159G (23mm)
For my 0.94" rear bar I bought 95160G (24mm)

Rockauto carries them (just search by part #) but I think I bought one set from eBay because I got a slightly cheaper price (maybe on a day that they offered 8% back in eBayBucks or had a paypal coupon. I forget).
-g
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post #53 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
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Okay, so instead of buying the original endlinks I purchased the Energy Suspension ones. I understand they don't have the swivel joint thing. Any problems I'll run into? Is 9.8125 the correct size? So many questions on this swaybar stuff.

Also Moog K90402 apparently for a 27mm rear bar. Nothing makes sense compared to the tech article but I'll assume they're the right size bushings. If someone knows the size of bushing they run or part number for rear swaybar on a 97 V8 please let me know until I can buy a digital caliper.
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post #54 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 05:50 AM
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The ADDCO bars come with end links. - At least the rear one does. - At least the one I ordered years ago came with end links.

Have you already order your bar? Has it arrived? Did it not come with end links?

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Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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That's something you'll need to measure as well, if you drop the car an inch you need about 1" shorter endlinks. The bar should be perfectly flat with the suspension at rest.

-Matt
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post #56 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Fudge. At this point I feel like buying a whole different swaybar since I'm at it....Addco part number and suggested size of swaybar.
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post #57 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 01:07 PM
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Fudge. At this point I feel like buying a whole different swaybar since I'm at it....Addco part number and suggested size of swaybar.
Well, you know, a ruler and a piece of string, and you can measure the current bar.

Wrap the string around the bar, mark where it overlaps.

Measure the distance between the two marks.

Divide by 3.14 .

That's your diameter.

RwP
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post #58 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey View Post
The ADDCO bars come with end links. - At least the rear one does. - At least the one I ordered years ago came with end links.

Have you already order your bar? Has it arrived? Did it not come with end links?

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Mine didn't, but I didn't write a check for a brand new bar

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post #59 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 05:15 PM
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Mine didn't, but I didn't write a check for a brand new bar
Therein lies your problem. When you write the check you get all the parts.

You don't write the check you have to make more than one payment, possibly to more than one source, by the payment means of your choice.

Anyway, glad to see you got a new(er) bar and good to read your thoughts on it.

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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post #60 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Posted a wanted thread for an Addco 1 1/4. But I'll probably end up buying one from SCP.

Note to everyone. The tech article on rear swaybar sizes is correct for the 97 Thunderbird 4.6. .96 inches or 24.5mm. I checked with the digital caliper I bought just a few hours ago. Don't know why all listed rear swaybar bushings for a TBird are ~27mm. Which is way too big, almost worse than having a worn out bushing on there lol

Also a little progress shot. Got the spring and shock in at one side. The old spring was a b**** to take out with even a compressor, I could only get one compressor on anyways since there's no room to put another one and actually tighten it. Putting the Vogtland was easy without a compressor. I reused the isolator, seemed good enough to me. Noticed the rear toe compensator bushing is squuezing out, it's worn out, but looks like a b**** to take out.
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