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post #121 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 10:06 AM
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Ford claims they aren't reusable because one end crushes over the other, but with some careful grinding, that lip can be removed in a condition that they can be reused. The more likely issue that prevents reusing them though is that the inner and outer sleeves typically rust together to the point where you can't separate them without destroying both. In AZ, or CA, if you are careful, there is a chance you could remove them without destroying them. In NJ or IL, it's just not going to happen.

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post #122 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 10:27 AM
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If that's the case, when I get to my sleeves and bushings, I'll take them apart and use a caliper to get measurements so that Jay or someone else can manufacture the washers for us. That will leave just the thermosplastic bushings as the last thing that none of us here are capable of making.

Not sure when I'd get to that stage, but it looks like @ikutoisahobo will be there before me at this point and also has a rust free car that will be able to make this happen.

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post #123 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
Ford claims they aren't reusable because one end crushes over the other, but with some careful grinding, that lip can be removed in a condition that they can be reused. The more likely issue that prevents reusing them though is that the inner and outer sleeves typically rust together to the point where you can't separate them without destroying both. In AZ, or CA, if you are careful, there is a chance you could remove them without destroying them. In NJ or IL, it's just not going to happen.
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If that's the case, when I get to my sleeves and bushings, I'll take them apart and use a caliper to get measurements so that Jay or someone else can manufacture the washers for us. That will leave just the thermosplastic bushings as the last thing that none of us here are capable of making.

Not sure when I'd get to that stage, but it looks like @ikutoisahobo will be there before me at this point and also has a rust free car that will be able to make this happen.
I think I'll go with the 180 dollar TBSC option with the stainless sleeves, but I'll try to salvage the old bushings and get the sleeve OD and ID and try to salvage the washers and everything. It's quite possible I might be able to find some cup like washers like that at some specialty hardware store. I'll look.
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post #124 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 01:50 PM
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You won't have a problem saving the washers. The problem is the factory sleeves, like Mikey said they rust together to the point that you can't use them again.

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post #125 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ikutoisahobo View Post
I think I'll go with the 180 dollar TBSC option with the stainless sleeves, but I'll try to salvage the old bushings and get the sleeve OD and ID and try to salvage the washers and everything. It's quite possible I might be able to find some cup like washers like that at some specialty hardware store. I'll look.
You can save a few bucks by buying just the sleeves and the OEM ford bushings from a different source.
Just search on google shopping for the part numbers and find the cheapest ford dealership offering them with cheap shipping to you (some offer 5%, some 10%, etc off MSRP).
I think 2 of them were $10-12/ea and the other two were like $5-6.
all in that's $36 + $99 vs $180

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post #126 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikutoisahobo View Post
I think I'll go with the 180 dollar TBSC option with the stainless sleeves, but I'll try to salvage the old bushings and get the sleeve OD and ID and try to salvage the washers and everything. It's quite possible I might be able to find some cup like washers like that at some specialty hardware store. I'll look.
You can save a few bucks by buying just the sleeves and the OEM ford bushings from a different source.
Just search on google shopping for the part numbers and find the cheapest ford dealership offering them with cheap shipping to you (some offer 5%, some 10%, etc off MSRP).
I think 2 of them were $10-12/ea and the other two were like $5-6.
all in that's $36 + $99 vs $180

-g
I'd be more than willing to do this instead. Just can't find in stock parts anywhere. If you guys could do the dirty work and share some links to where I can find these parts that would be great. But I have had bad luck finding anything. Is there a new part number for these bushings, and stuff or what?
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post #127 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ikutoisahobo View Post
I'd be more than willing to do this instead. Just can't find in stock parts anywhere. If you guys could do the dirty work and share some links to where I can find these parts that would be great. But I have had bad luck finding anything. Is there a new part number for these bushings, and stuff or what?
Best Suspension Package
Did you even look at the message your quoted?
Those letters and numbers are part#

Or use search on tccoa and see what other people have found
Front Strut Support Rod Bushing availability

Or just do this
LMGTFY

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post #128 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, and yeah I did look at what I quoted. Okay, I found:

Front:
2 of F7SZ-3A225-AA Bushing - $18
2 of E9SZ-3B271-A Bushing - $30
*2 of E9SZ-EB282-B Sleeve - ~$25
*2 of E9SZ-EB282-A Sleeve - ~$25
Total: ~ $98.00

Rear
2 of E9SZ-3A140-A Bushing - $34
*2 of E9SZ-3A140-B Bushing - ~$35
Total: ~ $69.00

* is what I could not find a source for, and the prices are assumptions based off the other parts.

TBSC front of strut ??rod option with new washers and sleeves is $180, or double the cost of buying the parts (excluding washers) separately.

Rear of strut rod is a tough one since I don't even know of a source to get that one bushing that I can't seem to find. Don't know if the Moog ones are sufficient for the rear of the rod.
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post #129 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 10:36 PM
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The aftermarket bushings are fine at the control arm side.

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post #130 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
The aftermarket bushings are fine at the control arm side.
Thanks, that's what I thought.


I ordered ACDelco 45G25054 Professional for the arm to rod bushings, just to stay away from Moog....dunno if these are thermoplastic or rubber, but they're black bushings, no fancy colors or anything. ACDelco has always made a quality part and I replaced all the parts on my GM van with those since they're OE.

Has anyone used ACDelco for strut rod bushings at either side (frame or arm)?
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post #131 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 05:00 PM
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The Moogs thermos work just fine for arm bushings, mine are at least 12 years old and they still look and feel new. I'd dare argue thermoplastic is BETTER than rubber in the arm side, since the original rubbers in my car didn't last that long in that position.

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post #132 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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The Moogs thermos work just fine for arm bushings, mine are at least 12 years old and they still look and feel new. I'd dare argue thermoplastic is BETTER than rubber in the arm side, since the original rubbers in my car didn't last that long in that position.
Oh man, lol. I cancelled my ACDelco order and just ordered the Moogs for the strut to arm bushings. K8680.
dunno just wanna stay to the tried and true method lol, I contacted ACDelco to see what their bushings are made out of...so hopefully I'll know soon.

Any one know of a sleeve size that works for the frame to rod side, since I have a source for the bushings just not the sleeves.
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post #133 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-08-2017, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone have an idea on the sleeve sizes? Are the sleeves that come with the Moog bushings the same size?
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post #134 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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My Moog K8680 came incomplete. 3 bushings, 1 sleeve, and 3 washers. Sent it back for a replacement.

Note: Sleeve that comes with the front control arm to strut rod bushings (K8680) is 23mm in outer diameter, and 18mm in inner diameter. Not sure if relevant but just had my caliper in hand.
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post #135 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 05:12 PM
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Whatever you do, never throw away any of the old washers or metal cups from the OG suspension; they're hard to find when you need them again.

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post #136 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Well. Looks like our only option is TBSC and the stainless sleeves unless we're daring enough to salvage the sleeves. So I went and ordered it. 180 dollar hit to the wallet but at this stage it's the only option.

I will try to salvage the old hardware and sleeves and make a kit and sell that or keep it. But I doubt I'll ever do the strut rod bushings again in the lifetime of the car. So I'll probably end up selling the sleeves and washers and what not to someone that needs it.
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post #137 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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I received the TBSC stainless sleeves and OEM bushings today. Took some measurements of the sleeves today, in case someone wants to make one on their lathe or maybe offer us a cheaper option!

http://imgur.com/a/UNmfX
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post #138 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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The Bird is at the mechanic with the new OEM strut rod bushings, stainless sleeves, MOOG strut to arm bushings, new lower control arms, Tokico front struts and Vogtland springs.

Let's hope no one screws anything up. I printed out the pages from the tech manual relating to the strut rod bushings and how to install them. Just in case they f it up.
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post #139 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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NEED INPUT ASAP:

These are strut rod to frame bushings with the stainless sleeves they are on incorrectly, right?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20170520_194551_1495335206890.jpg (3.61 MB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20170520_194533_1495335307681.jpg (499.6 KB, 7 views)
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post #140 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ikutoisahobo View Post
NEED INPUT ASAP:

These are strut rod to frame bushings with the stainless sleeves they are on incorrectly, right?
That looks correct.

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post #141 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 10:01 PM
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Those look correct to me, what makes you think incorrect?

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post #142 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Those look correct to me, what makes you think incorrect?
The tech manual says "cup side to face away from insulator"

Now this also seems a little off, the washer doesn't seem centered? Maybe the smaller and bigger sleeve got mixed up? I don't know I'm frikking stressed out right now....

Here's an image dump: http://imgur.com/a/aJYb0
Tell me if anything looks even slightly wrong. Car is still at the mechanics.
Attached Images
File Type: png strutrodtech.PNG (35.7 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20170520_194445.jpg (3.73 MB, 4 views)

Last edited by ikutoisahobo; 05-20-2017 at 11:14 PM.
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post #143 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Also, there is a clunk, clunk, clunk when the car is moving and the wheel is in full LEFT position, in full RIGHT it does NOT do any clunking. Lower Control Arms, Swaybar frame bushings, strut/spring was replaced and the strut rod bushings. What could it be?
Image Dump: http://imgur.com/a/aJYb0

Only in FULL left steering.

Last edited by ikutoisahobo; 05-20-2017 at 11:21 PM.
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post #144 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ikutoisahobo View Post
Also, there is a clunk, clunk, clunk when the car is moving and the wheel is in full LEFT position, in full RIGHT it does NOT do any clunking. Lower Control Arms, Swaybar frame bushings, strut/spring was replaced and the strut rod bushings. What could it be?

Only in FULL left steering.
swaybar end link.

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post #145 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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swaybar end link.
Okay, I'll have that checked by him. It makes a rhythmic clunk on full-lock LEFT, and it feels like you can feel it through the steering, just slightly, the sound isn't too loud but it's a clunk and it's there.


Thanks so much for the quick replies guys. Could someone PLEASE slide under their car and snap a few good pics of how their strut rod bushings are installed.

Last edited by ikutoisahobo; 05-20-2017 at 11:45 PM.
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post #146 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 11:51 PM
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Mine are installed that way, never touched the frame sides on mine

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post #147 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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Mine are installed that way, never touched the frame sides on mine
Okay, either the tech article is wrong or they didn't care at the factory...because I saw in another post that is how they were installed. http://s1006.photobucket.com/user/di...dDown.jpg.html
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post #148 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 05:59 AM
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Okay, either the tech article is wrong or they didn't care at the factory...because I saw in another post that is how they were installed. NutBackedDown.jpg Photo by dickbragg | Photobucket
You're confusing yourself. The diagram you posted is pertaining to the outside end of the strut rod (toward the center line of the car) and the picture you posted is on outside of the frame rail (towards the wheel). Your picture is correct. I assume the other side matches the diagram.
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post #149 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. Yeah I was confusing myself.


Also any other input on the full-lock LEFT turn clunk, subtle clunk, while car is moving (say U-turn). Not in right turn.

It almost feels like the steering turns more to the left than it does to the right...could it be because of no alignment that two parts may be binding? Etc.
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post #150 of 180 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 06:49 PM
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