Which rear lca to frame bushings? - TCCoA Forums

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
Rob
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Which rear lca to frame bushings?

I know this has probably been discussed, but I've had a little trouble finding a specific thread on this subject.

I have a full set of moog rear lower inner bushings, along with two moog toe compensator links. I also have a poly set can't remember the brand right now. I am going poly on the knuckle bushings for budget sake. I have also heard you don't need toe compensators with poly (or was that Delrin?)

Which set do y'all think I should use on the rear lower inners and why? I'm really worried about poly squeak. If I went poly I would probably use grease zerks and dielectric grease or ptfe grease to lubricate them. Let me know what y'all think
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 08:20 PM
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With poly or delrin on the frame ends you don't need toe comps, you need to keep the toe comps with rubber inboard regardless of whether or not you use poly on the knuckles only. Yes use zerks if you use poly.
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-Matt
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Which bushings would give a longer service life?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 06:48 AM
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Delrin will. It's much harder. I'll be going to Delrin as soon as money allows to try to kill the wheel hop on my Bird. I made a thread about how to run poly and delete the toe comps if you wanted to see how it was done.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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Seems like you would need a spacer of sorts to delete the compensators. I would def be interested in seeing the thread. I'll try to find it.

I am still on the fence about poly vs rubber. I drive this thing almost every day very hard and I don't want to have to do the bushings again in a short amount of time. I don't think Delrin is in the budget unless it lasts forever lol
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 10:58 AM
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You can sacrifice an old toe compensator to create the spacer, the pivots will come out with a BFH

Rubber in the right conditions can outlast poly(obviously there are decades old cars with stock rubber somewhere in places), poly doesn't dry rot but it can deform and crack when enough pressure is applied, which is why it's really bad in strut rod applications, and even sway bar endlinks(my energy suspension ones were destroyed after ~7 years), but the same applies over time with pivot bushings. That's where delrin shines, it holds it's shape, doesn't rot and is stiff, but for a price. Poly can be cheaper than OEM rubber, more available and in some areas last just as long. If you have new rubber bushings and toe comps on hand already I'd probably just run them.

-Matt

Last edited by XR7-4.6; 04-21-2017 at 11:05 AM.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 07:06 PM
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This thread was early:

Rear Suspension Rebuild

This is now:

NEW! Polyurethane Rear Control Arm Bushings!

As you can see, I'm running these.

I kept the Toe compensators, and made perches, cheap...

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.

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