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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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New suspension

Replaced pretty much everything. Upper and lower control arms with ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar end links, strut rod bushings, struts..... New rotors waiting to go on this week...
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Last edited by SHADOW; 05-09-2017 at 04:04 PM.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 04:20 PM
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Looking good!

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It's not a 97 Sport, it just looks like one!

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 06:24 PM
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Nice. Nothing like a good suspension refresh (short of a motor refresh)

Which shocks are those?

Tell us about the new rotors...

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 06:40 PM
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Your brake caliper is more effective placed on the other side

-Matt
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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the brake caliper is kinda useless without the rotor.........lol

rotors are the drilled and slotted rock auto ones I mentioned in another post...that im drilling out.....

struts are nothing special, rockauto monroes, about 40 each, with my eibach springs

would love to complete my new motor but still have no clue how to bring it home from Prestons.......working on it


13.66 @ 100.4 mph
1.94 60' time


"If you stick with the basics, you never have to go back to them"
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 06:32 PM
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How easy is it to remove the shock/spring combo? I know they sell pre-assembled kits. I'm thinking of swapping mine out with new ones....

Thanks!
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 06:45 PM
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Not too bad, if I can do it anyone can!

Do a quick search, I think it was laid out recently. Hardest part can be the lower shock bolt on the control arm, over time the bolt can become seized to the bushing. Don't want to add a new control arm to the job!

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 06:59 PM
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I smear the lower shock bolt in antisieze to prevent that. I've never been beaten by a siezed one though, I break off the lock tab from the bolt head and can usually spin it free whilst hammering on the other end.

-Matt
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 07:01 PM
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I'm thinking the ones on mine are OLD.. there's a lot of impact harshness and I'm wondering if that might be a culprit.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHADOW View Post
the brake caliper is kinda useless without the rotor.........lol

rotors are the drilled and slotted rock auto ones I mentioned in another post...that I'm drilling out.....

struts are nothing special, rock-auto Monroes, about 40 each, with my Eibach springs

would love to complete my new motor but still have no clue how to bring it home from Prestons.......working on it
Wow! Didn't know you had a motor sitting at Preston's. Yea, that's a problem. Best wishes getting it back to the Carolina's.

What's the story with that engine?

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 07:01 AM
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So you painted those monroes? Never saw a red one lol. I can't wait to do mine also. I'm going eibach on kybs up front. Yours looks very nice.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natesriv View Post
How easy is it to remove the shock/spring combo?
It's not easy by any means, you have to disconnect the LCA to get it out of there. It is a job that's best to be combined with a total suspension overhaul. Then it's easy!

Al

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 68k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 Crown Vic Police Interceptor - Brenda's car
Previous cars:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years
96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years
88 T-Bird 3.8 - first T-Bird, owned 5 years
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 07:53 AM
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When my Tbird had the old OEM struts a few years ago it was very floaty, and bouncy feeling. I don't recall it having impact harshness. It was overall was a huge improvement when I put the new sensatracs on it.

I didn't have to remove the LCA to replace the front shock assembly. IIRC its a bit tight but you should have enough room to take it out if you remove the brakes and disconnect sway bar links.

When I did them I replaced just replaced the struts to save some money. Won't be doing that again; it was a lot of work to in the end reuse the old springs. You are better off just getting a new assembly and saving a lot of time. Now if you have the JJJJ sport springs and you want to reuse them it's probably worth it then. But then you get into actually finding shocks that work well with the sport springs....

96 Cougar Sport
96 Tbird LX
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 08:53 AM
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I'm thinking my shocks/springs are either OEM or OLD!!! Not sure how age affects them, but they can really pound hard on certain surfaces. The Cooper Cobra's probably aren't the softest tires either though
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T6Rocket View Post
It's not easy by any means, you have to disconnect the LCA to get it out of there. It is a job that's best to be combined with a total suspension overhaul. Then it's easy!

Al
It's not hard by any means either. All you do is unbolt the UCA from the spindle, unbolt the sway bar link(only necessary on one side), unbolt the shock from the LCA and tower, push down on the spindle and guide the assembly out behind the arm.

-Matt
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 01:48 PM
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I just remember I had to unbolt "something".

When my shocks were bad on my old '95 (and Brenda's old '96), the cars hit the bumps HARD, made a pretty loud noise. Then I put some Sensatracs on, and it fixed that, but became "floaty". Those shocks are the worst, for MN-12's anyway. Unless you like to feel like the captain of a small ship.

Al

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 68k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 Crown Vic Police Interceptor - Brenda's car
Previous cars:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years
96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years
88 T-Bird 3.8 - first T-Bird, owned 5 years
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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The motor is an all aluminum 4.6, nothing radical.....I have stage 2 crower cams, 24 lb injectors, add my current xcal2, nitrous, MAC cold air tube....... Rear end is a mk vlll aluminum with a new posi internal with 3.73 gears

the timing chain cover is black, cant find the pic right now...

all of these were powder coated by Preston Smith......
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 46_ensemble_red.jpg (68.7 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg kensintake sm.JPG (25.9 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg kens_pumpkin sm.JPG (29.9 KB, 22 views)


13.66 @ 100.4 mph
1.94 60' time


"If you stick with the basics, you never have to go back to them"

Last edited by SHADOW; 05-12-2017 at 04:32 PM.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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if you are doing struts, upper and lower control arms are less then a hundred at rockauto... I recommend you just replace every thing.....inner and our tie rods and sway bar end links minimal cost too......dont forget your strut rod bushings....I went poly


13.66 @ 100.4 mph
1.94 60' time


"If you stick with the basics, you never have to go back to them"
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