Wondering what part(s) to look at to help with power steering play - TCCoA Forums

 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Wondering what part(s) to look at to help with power steering play

The rack I think is fine. It holds the alignment from the shop, but potholes and irregularities in the road transmit to the wheel. I'm wondering what suspension piece(s) might be contributing to that? I've replaced the upper control arms/ball joints, I know I need to do the driver's side sway bar bushing (the one under the oil filter, it's torn, probably from being soaked in oil every oil change).. but are there other components I should be looking at?

Thanks Amigos!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 10:16 AM
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There will be some of that due to being rack and pinion - R&P has a low "irreversability" to it compared to the recirculating ball (Saginaw) design.

Also, if your toe isn't right, it can be grabby. Same for caster - positive caster will get the car going straight after a turn; negative will make it turn on every bump. Toe also affects steering the same way; toe out will make it dance like a cat on a hot tin roof.

As to "what parts worn" - dang near any of them. Sway bar not so much; that comes into play when the car is turning and transferring weight from one side to the other. But a worn ball joint (upper or lower), worn tie rod ends, worn shocks, over or under inflated tires, worn bushings - all of that can contribute by not keeping the front end in one "piece" during bumps (i.e., bushing shifts, angles shift, that shifts toe and/or camber and/or caster, car changes direction. Repeat for almost any other part.)

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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New front shocks are on the agenda.. The alignment guy didn't note any issues with play...
I'll do the shocks then see how that works.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 01:16 PM
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Since it's easier to pull the shocks with the LCA out, I'd also do the LCAs, and get it realigned.

It's old enough that the LCAs, if still factory, are WAY suspect.

RwP

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Easy DIY ?
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 08:31 AM
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Very easy, I did all that a few months ago in the driveway with hand tools. Just take it all apart and put it back together in reverse. A torque wrench is advisable, you can look up all the specs in a haynes manual, or just browse the forum here and it'll pop up.

Replace what you can while you're in there. I did shocks, strut rod bushing, and upper control arms when I did it. Recently my stabilizer bar linkage got shitty on me so I had to go in there and do that....... stupidly I should have done those when I was in there the first time. Also, hit every bolt and nut with pb blaster the day before you start, it'll make it much easier.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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She's going to the mechanic for some work tomorrow, after that... the fun begins.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 02:57 PM
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If the front shocks are bad/ blown out, I could see that sort of thing happening when you hit "road irregularities"..
I would also take a look at the steering Rag Joint, just to see what kind of shape that's in..






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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natesriv View Post
Easy DIY ?
It depends on how experienced you are and how many tools you have. I would not do the job without air tools.

I started a front shock job on my old '95, but put it back together and took it to a shop. I ended up breaking a weld off one of the alignment guides by using inadequate methods of part removal. And I didn't have air tools at the time.

Now I have air tools, and did the suspension on two MN12's. Suspension is heavy duty work.

Al

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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No air tools, but do have a breaker bar! yeah before I go too deep I'll have to have a good look.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 10:40 AM
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If you broke the alignment guides that means you were trying to loosen via the bolt head, which is fused to the cam. The amount of force to break the tabs by twisting on those with a breaker bar far exeeds the force necessary to loosen the NUT properly. I've never needed air tools on my car.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, I was being funny. I'm not using a breaker bar on anything. If I can't get it off with my tools, someone who has the right tools can.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 01:58 PM
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I used my deWALT brushless impact driver to loosen up the rear suspension. Made easy work of it, just one hit with the impact wrench and off it came, but then again this is a rust free 62k mile car so siezed up bolts nuts aren't expected. My springs that I took off from the rear still have the factory plastic/paper tag that says the manufacturing date and stuff.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natesriv View Post
Oh, I was being funny. I'm not using a breaker bar on anything. If I can't get it off with my tools, someone who has the right tools can.
I was referring to T6Rocket's post.


Nothing wrong with a breaker bar, some of us don't live and die by impact wrenches, and many times they're mishandled by so called professionals.

-Matt
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