Things to check if you hear clunking from your suspension - Page 3 - TCCoA Forums

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post #61 of 187 (permalink) Old 05-21-2007, 05:42 PM
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Thanks for the detail but I guess I should have been a little more clear. The only parts that I do know are the UCA's and the swaybar endlinks. As stated above I've already replaced both of these parts so I don't know what to check now.
I read something about the 8 bolts that hold the frame to the front frame? Not sure where thoes are.

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post #62 of 187 (permalink) Old 05-22-2007, 12:48 AM
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clunk

The first thing I'd do would be to check the strut rods (about 3/4" diameter and 2 feet long; middle part curves down and is flatted; ends threaded; front end connects to frame crossmember, rear end to LCA, set of bushings & washers at each end)

See if you can move the rods forwards and backwards. They shouldn't move at all, and any play in their bushings will cause a clunk when you apply the brakes.
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post #63 of 187 (permalink) Old 05-25-2007, 02:14 PM
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let's see who can narrow down the source of my rattling in the front.

it, of course, occurs when going over the buttons on the freeway, but speedbumps i dont hear it. it also occurs when im slowing down and it will rattle even on fairly smooth roads. any ideas on what to check?

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post #64 of 187 (permalink) Old 05-26-2007, 01:13 PM
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FWIW, I put mine on the lift, and most of the subframe bolts were about ½ turn loose.

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post #65 of 187 (permalink) Old 05-26-2007, 08:36 PM
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I checked the subframe bolts today and all seemed tight. Problem was that the only socket I had that would fit them was 1/4 drive. I used an adapter to fit it to my 3/8 socket wrench but I twisted off the adapter. I'll get a bigger socket and check them again. Nothing else under the front of the car looks bad.

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post #66 of 187 (permalink) Old 05-30-2007, 09:02 PM
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I was suprised that mine made a difference, but it did.

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post #67 of 187 (permalink) Old 06-13-2007, 10:51 AM
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ttt for my previous post. can anyone diagnose the source of my rattle?

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post #68 of 187 (permalink) Old 06-13-2007, 12:25 PM
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post #69 of 187 (permalink) Old 06-13-2007, 12:55 PM
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post #70 of 187 (permalink) Old 08-22-2007, 11:32 PM
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One more thing to add to the list: Front Camber Bolts.

I had a persistent popping noise even though nothing on the front end was less than 20k miles old. I finally traced it to the camber bolts. I had replaced the stockers with aftermarket ones when I did the lower arms.

I got a set of Ford ones from Jason, installed them, and the popping went away. I had it aligned, and the popping came back. I retorqued them, and it went away. I was surprised to see in my manual that the camber bolts should be torqued to about 105 ft-lbs.

So, if nothing else seems to be the cause, try retorquing the camber bolts.

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post #71 of 187 (permalink) Old 08-24-2007, 10:13 AM
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i couldn't get my 2 1/2 ft long tq wrench under there so i just bowed up on them as much as i could. helped, but not fully fixed. maybe they still arent tight enough

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post #72 of 187 (permalink) Old 08-25-2007, 10:12 PM
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I had an alinment done and 90% of the poping went away.

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post #73 of 187 (permalink) Old 08-26-2007, 02:30 AM
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Quote:
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I had an alinment done and 90% of the poping went away.
Then there's a good chance it was the camber bolts. Re-torque them after 100 miles or so, and see if the rest of the popping goes away.

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post #74 of 187 (permalink) Old 09-01-2007, 01:59 AM
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Ok I have clunking issues, I have a feeling its the subframe bolts from what I read here. I can feel it under my feet when it clunks too. It clunks when I begin to take off, or when making a turn from stop like backing out or driving away with the wheel turned from a stop. Its hopefully going to get it looked at, I know to tell them, the subframe bolts, lower, shock tower bolts. I dont know what else it could be. If they dont have enough time to look at it then I'm screwed til monday, maybe tues.

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post #75 of 187 (permalink) Old 09-01-2007, 03:40 PM
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Clunk

I would torque the subframe bolts first and go from there. You might want to get the special socket and then tighten them yourself. 100 foot pounds will do. If you still have clunks, then the next thing to look at is the stabilizer bar front bushings, then the ball joints and end link swaybar joints. 95% of them will be fixed at this point. Phil

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post #76 of 187 (permalink) Old 09-02-2007, 12:37 PM
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Ok I took my car and dropped it off to have the clunks looked at and they told me the end links were loose and tightened them. But now the clunks are worse when I slam on the brakes, I dont drive usually and brake that hard but just to test it. I dont trust them anymore, and will take it somewhere else. Are these clunks a safety issue? I want to wait until I have a new exhaust put on and have the clunks addressed at the same time at one place for conveniences sake. This may take a while so should I be worried? The car drives right and I dont drive more than 30 miles in a day. I am really pissed this shop let me down, its during the school year and I dont have the time to doing anything meaningful on my own. So the plan is to grab stock manifolds from a junkyard, send them the braincoating, and get them back with all the other needed pieces for the exhaust and give it to one place to true duel it and declunk it. Is this a good idea? I am just not happy with my car right now because after all the new stuff on it, its making more noise than before.

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post #77 of 187 (permalink) Old 09-02-2007, 10:03 PM
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get a torque wrench and do it yourself. why pay someone to do it when you know whats wrong?

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post #78 of 187 (permalink) Old 09-02-2007, 10:34 PM
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[QUOTE=Splattered;1024023]Ok I took my car and dropped it off to have the clunks looked at and they told me the end links were loose and tightened them. But now the clunks are worse when I slam on the brakes, I dont drive usually and brake that hard but just to test it. I dont trust them anymore, and will take it somewhere else. it. Is this a good idea?

No it is a terrible idea. You will be chasing that clunk from one shop to another and spending money for nothing. Take the time to do it yourself just like I told you to start with. What do you expect, that shop didn't even address the subframe bolts. Buy the socket and a torque wrench and do it yourself. You will be surprised how easy it is to fix.

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post #79 of 187 (permalink) Old 09-02-2007, 10:40 PM
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I might be able to do it for you later. I plan to be in Prescott and Williams around September 16th if you want to drive the car over. It would take about 5 minutes.
Phil

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post #80 of 187 (permalink) Old 09-02-2007, 11:48 PM
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yeah I wouldn't mind. Just let me know when you date is firm. I am in college so if it gets in the way of class I can't but I will work around work on the weekends. I am totally happy you suggested that, I will do anything I can to get you the time you need with my car.

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post #81 of 187 (permalink) Old 09-11-2007, 12:43 AM
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Bluebird I had one of those clunks got real loud and so took it to another place since I had a 20% off coupon. It was next to my work. I dropped it off and they found that my brakes were causing the noise. I don't have the time to fix it myself and since I would need extra time to learn as I go, I just paid them for the job. I know it was expensive and its ok because thie first shop may be retarded but they hooked me up saving many 100s. So since I spent 300 on getting basically new brakes in the front and rears adjusted since the shoes are new, I'm fine with that. I wish I knew this on break or else I would have done it myself. And it wasn't the subframe bolts and I asked them twice about it and they said the bolts were tight.
So the brake pads were moving around in the caliper something that holds it in place failed and caused the clunk. Im now clunk free. The only thing left I havent done is wheel hubs, everything else in this thread that needs replacing has been replaced.

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Last edited by Splattered; 09-11-2007 at 12:48 AM.
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post #82 of 187 (permalink) Old 09-11-2007, 09:01 AM
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That's great. Hope this solves it in your case. Phil

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post #83 of 187 (permalink) Old 09-14-2007, 08:10 PM
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Another one for the list..............

Sway Bar Bushings ...these are the ones that mount the sway bar to the subframe. Mine were toast and causing a clunking and rattling noise when going over bumps. If you choose to replace these by splitting the bushing instead of sliding them over the sway bar as the Shop Manual says ONLY split the part to the rear of the bushing when installed. If you split the bushing entirely you have destroyed it. It is better to go through the PITA to slide them over the bar though if able to do that.
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post #84 of 187 (permalink) Old 04-01-2008, 10:40 AM
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I'm getting a clunk on the drivers side when i go over bumps or when i push down on the frontend, im thinking strut mount or sway bar link? anyone else have some input?

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post #85 of 187 (permalink) Old 04-01-2008, 03:11 PM
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Don't forget to check those front sub fame bolts. We are finding a whole lot of 91-97 TBirds & Cougars with these bolts loose. I can almost guarantee that if they have never been retorqued from the factory, they are loose and clunking. Most often when you hit the brakes and/or cornering. ALL of these cars should be checked for these bolts coming loose.

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post #86 of 187 (permalink) Old 06-17-2008, 08:20 AM
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I have clunk noise from the front with bump steer and 70+ vibration. Lower control arms and struts and springs were replaced about a year ago. Anyone have any ideas? Took it to ford because I thought it would be the tie rods but they said they were fine.

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post #87 of 187 (permalink) Old 06-18-2008, 02:42 AM
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front end clunk, bump steer

I'd get the car up on stands and pull the front wheels. First make sure all the subframe bolts are tight. If any of them seems at all loose, you'll need a special (external Torx?) socket, 1/2" drive.

Next check the strut rod bushings where the front ends of the rods connect to the crossmember, and where the back ends connect to the lower control arms (LCA.) When you grab the rod and try to move it along its axis, there should be no play.

If there is, a bushing may have failed. That lets the wheel on that side move all over the place when you apply the brakes or hit a bump. If you need these bushings, buy the Ford ones and not the blue plastic Moogs. They cost a lot more, but they're much better quality. Believe me--they'll save you money and headaches in the long run.

If neither one of these is the problem, try to move each piece to see if there's play where there shouldn't be. Be thorough--a checklist is a good idea. If nothing's obvious, use a good 1/2" torque wrench that will pull at least 150 ft.-lb. and tighten everything you can to specs.

If either of the shock-to LCA bolts or the camber adjustment bolts is loose, don't tighten them until you've replaced the wheels and let the car back down. And always tighten the nut on the adustment bolt, never the head. Good luck!
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post #88 of 187 (permalink) Old 08-21-2008, 10:22 PM
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so heres the deal, 96 cougar, I've done the full poly bushing changeover complete with new front LCA and UCA's. after that, I picked up this clunking in the rear on small pothole ish bumps. The sound seems like what I would expect to hear from very very loose rear upper shock mounting. Some time later my sohc starting going and I replaced it with a dohc and added 1 3/8" bars front and back. same noise in the rear, but now I have a very wicked shake when going over light bumps. RR tracks are my worst nightmare... to the point of being painful. I actually prefer to hit these rough road areas with the suspension loaded to one side or another because its a bit smoother. On smooth road the car is extremely responsive with great turn in, only thing more I want is a set of track tires to see just how much lateral force she'll take before the chassis really starts to twist.

I also get this clunk or slip in the front, usually in parkinglot movement, but now and then I'll get it diving into a tight corner after braking. It feels like... a steering rack skipping a tooth or something. Im just glad these cars are very forgiving when you get out of it.

I know the kmember bolts are tight, the only things i can think of that havent been checked or done are.... new tranny mount, xmember bushings. rear subframe bolts/bushings. subframe connectors (other chassis stiffening) possible mismatch of parts (all the poly and bars mixed with sport springs and mono monroes) and the possibility that the energy suspension lube has very quickly worn off the polys.

edit, also have a bad vibration above 90, comes on really bad above 100. oh and Ive had 2 shops check the suspension and steering step by step with me, all agree that everything is tight and aligned
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post #89 of 187 (permalink) Old 08-22-2008, 04:23 PM
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[ rear subframe bolts/bushings. /QUOTE]


That's what I would check next.

Phil

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post #90 of 187 (permalink) Old 09-29-2008, 12:27 AM
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Hi everyone I just picked up a 95 T-Bird that body wise is in Great shape.

I have a clunking noise coming from what sounds like the pass side. when i grab the drivers side tire and push in and out on it i can see the pass strut move inside the eng comp.

What should i check out and while i'm under there i would like to check the subframe Bolts if one of u fine people would point me in the right direction as to what i would look at so i will know whre they are.
Thanks Lyn
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