Things to check if you hear clunking from your suspension - Page 5 - TCCoA Forums

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post #121 of 181 (permalink) Old 04-07-2011, 05:47 PM
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I just had an alignment done after replacing the LCAs and I was getting an occasional pop on sharp turns or under hard braking. Turns out they didn't torque down the right camber bolt. I'll probably drive it in and make them check the alignment again just to be sure it didn't move.

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post #122 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-02-2011, 12:03 AM
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OK, just read this whole thread as well as others. Damn tired of this minor rattle I hear over on drivers side of the '95 ... sounds like under or maybe just in front of my feet. Tomorrow .... I mean later today after I get up, gonna check those sub frame bolts and pad anti rattlers and sway bar bushings (links are good) and rack mounting and UCA bolts and etc....

My '95 has only 69,000 on it now, drives great, BJs are tight, UCA bushings fuss when cold, but that rattle is getting old.

My '92 is north of 145,000 and has NO rattles. It had squeaky UCA bushings but new UCAs cured that as well as got rid of those loose UBJs.

Edited later ..... It was just driver's side sway bar link. I could not feel any loosness in it, thought OK, went over every nut / bolt today .... all tight.

Then I hit my palm against the sway bar near the center under the motor and heard the vibration rattle over at the left front. Wedged a screw driver batween the saw bar and link to apply a little pressure, smacked it again, quieter then. Not loose, just slop in lower end ball joint of link.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 97TXBIRD View Post
97Bluebird or Tobey, do you know what the special socket is called or size for the frame bolts?
E-18 .... got mine in small set at Northern.

A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!

Last edited by CrystalPistol; 05-03-2011 at 12:04 AM.
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post #123 of 181 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 01:17 PM
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Skimming through, I didn't see this mentioned, so:

Transmission to crossmember mount.

See, for instance, my new one on the left and my old one on the right:



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post #124 of 181 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 02:49 PM
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If you have cobra calipers, make sure your anti rattle clips and retainning pins are present and in good condition, this can cause quite the clatter

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post #125 of 181 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 12:06 AM
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I just changed my original steering rack and I still have a noise when turning out of my driveway. I just put the kmember back in recently and its tight, plus the clunk was happening before I removed the kmember.

I am gonna change tie rod ends and strut rod bushings up front and rear shocks since I need em. All other bushings will be replaced as soon as I can work up the effort to bust out the labor (its not hard i just gotta do it).

Suspension is the easiest, most difficult work I've ever tried. I mean you have to have some ass ready to get on your back, climb under a car, and wrestle with bolts bigger than you have ever wrestled with.

Weirdly enough my tool of choice has become my 6" pipe wrench along with my floor jack handle.

With my pipe wrench+floor jack handle combo im popping 300ft/lbs bolt like it aint nothing. I was pretty sure I'd break my little ass pipe wrench but its a trooper and its staying right here in my tool bag for good.

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post #126 of 181 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 08:05 PM
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Let me ask a question?

Does "stiff" come before "clunk"? My problem is that my '94 LX steering gets stiff when the weather gets colder. It doesn't lock up, but after driving it for a mile or so, the stiffness goes away. I thought it could be a power steering pump issue. I'm also wondering if an upper ball joint could be overtorqued. Any thoughts or tips would be well recieved.



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post #127 of 181 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 10:58 PM
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My transmission mount looked exactly the same as yours, Ralph. I didn't even know it was broken until I pulled the tranny for a torque converter swap.

I was like, wow, will you look at that. I didn't have one handy, so I put it back together with the broken mount until the next day when I could drive to a parts store, buy a new one and replace it!

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post #128 of 181 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 09:40 AM
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I still have a slight rattle coming from my pass. front. Everything is new except the wheel bearing and shock mount. Both are tight and right though

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post #129 of 181 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 01:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NetKeym View Post
My transmission mount looked exactly the same as yours, Ralph. I didn't even know it was broken until I pulled the tranny for a torque converter swap.

I was like, wow, will you look at that. I didn't have one handy, so I put it back together with the broken mount until the next day when I could drive to a parts store, buy a new one and replace it!
When I did my motor swap mine was the same way... I replaced the mount right away. Even so it must have been bad for a while because 2 months later when my transmission went out while inspecting all critical internal parts it was discovered that my tailshaft bushing was worn down past the copper down into the babbitt on one side.

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post #130 of 181 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadrunnner View Post
I still have a slight rattle coming from my pass. front. Everything is new except the wheel bearing and shock mount. Both are tight and right though
Tighten end links are add some washers to them, end links love to rattle.

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #131 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-11-2012, 08:35 AM
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Set Control Arms Ford Thunderbird Cougar 97-89

hay anyone know if this is any good hole set left and right upper and lower SET CONTROL ARMS FORD THUNDERBIRD COUGAR 97-89



http://www.ebay.com/itm/SET-CONTROL-...ht_5099wt_1031
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post #132 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-11-2012, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94_XR7_48K View Post
hay anyone know if this is any good hole set left and right upper and lower SET CONTROL ARMS FORD THUNDERBIRD COUGAR 97-89



http://www.ebay.com/itm/SET-CONTROL-...ht_5099wt_1031
Well, that's about half the price of what the Moogs are at RockAuto.

Overall, the eBay suspension parts tend to be crap. Well, the good ones are crap.

But hey, it's not only your life you risk, it's everyone ELSE'S on the road!

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post #133 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-11-2012, 09:20 AM
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Don't ever buy suspension parts from ebay. They'll last you 6 months, tops - if you're lucky.

-Brandon
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post #134 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 05:49 PM
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I have a "vibration" coming through the steering wheel at highway speed.

When hitting a bump in the road you will feel the bump through the suspension as you would expect, then, you get what I could almost describe as a secondary bump in the steering wheel. One jolt on the road equals one additional bump in the wheel. I can't hear anything clunkwise, this is all feel. I had this checked at a shop and was told everything was fine. I have had this 95 bird since 96 and it did not previously do this, even with large bumps in the road.

Anybody have any ideas where to look for an answer to this symptom?

Any ideas greatly appreciated
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post #135 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleybuc View Post
I have a "vibration" coming through the steering wheel at highway speed.

When hitting a bump in the road you will feel the bump through the suspension as you would expect, then, you get what I could almost describe as a secondary bump in the steering wheel. One jolt on the road equals one additional bump in the wheel. I can't hear anything clunkwise, this is all feel. I had this checked at a shop and was told everything was fine. I have had this 95 bird since 96 and it did not previously do this, even with large bumps in the road.

Anybody have any ideas where to look for an answer to this symptom?

Any ideas greatly appreciated
I would guess the bushings that mount the ring and pinion to the crossmember are shot. I would look for polyurethane ones if possible. Oil has probably attacked the stock bushings.

Phil Swanson

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post #136 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich95XR7 View Post
Well, after reading at least 2 posts per day about clunking, I've made this sticky. I will list common things that "clunk" on the MN12 chassis here, and if you can think of any more not listed, add them on, and I'll consolidate the list. I hope this will help people out, and maybe cut down on repetitive posts.

1. Upper Ball Joints
2. Lower Ball Joints
3. Swaybar endlink bushings
4. Brake Calipers
5. strut rod bushings
6. Lower Control Arm shock mount bushing
7. Loose upper shock mount/subframe bolts
8. Tie Rods
9. Broken Spring
10. Loose lower shock mounting bolt
11. Steering Rack
I started the original post. You have combined the main one which causes this and was on my original post. You have it in #7 but it should be emphasized by itself and it should be number 1. The large internal reverse torx head subframe bolts were not always tightened at the factory and loosen over time. They should be checked at every oil change. They require 100 ft. lbs. and are often loose allowing the whole front end to shift, especially when hitting the brake. This condition is the reason I started the thread. #3 is very common also. I would also recommend you list them in order of frequency.

Phil Swanson

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post #137 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-14-2012, 10:59 AM
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I just replaced UCA, LCA, strut rod bushings, upper strut mount and the rattling is still there. Tie rods and struts are good so I didn`t replace them, looks like they were done before. It`s at the alignment shop right now. I hope when it comes back the rattle would be gone
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post #138 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-14-2012, 11:00 AM
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That pretty much leaves the K member bolts (the eight E-18 head bolts).

That, or maybe motor mounts.

'Course, it COULD be something like a ratchet wrench in the K-member ...

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post #139 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-14-2012, 11:03 AM
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Sway bar end links?

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post #140 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-14-2012, 12:09 PM
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You can push the car down while in park not running and you can hear it. It sounds hollow like it`s the body.

Last edited by lou; 07-14-2012 at 12:27 PM.
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post #141 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-14-2012, 12:18 PM
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+1 on sway bar endlinks.

-Brandon
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post #142 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-14-2012, 05:15 PM
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Alignment came out good but I still hear the rattle. I`m thinking it`s a upper strut cover. When the strut was off the car it can be moved up and down about .5 inch.
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post #143 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-14-2012, 05:31 PM
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No struts on MN12s. They're shocks.

Once again, check the sway bar endlinks.

-Brandon
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post #144 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-15-2012, 07:26 PM
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What size are the subframe torx bolts?

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post #145 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-15-2012, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
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What size are the subframe torx bolts?
The heads or the bolts themselves?

The heads are E18 torx.

The bolts are M12 x 1.75

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post #146 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-15-2012, 09:51 PM
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I changed my sway bar end link's yesterday, the car feels a ton tighter and it doesn't feel like the wheel is gonna fall off now.

My ball joint's are bad too (they squeak while turning), but the main issue was the end link's.

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post #147 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-16-2012, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLF View Post
The heads or the bolts themselves?

The heads are E18 torx.

The bolts are M12 x 1.75
It's raining here and I don't want to crawl back under the car? Is that a female socket?

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post #148 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-16-2012, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Torinocator View Post
It's raining here and I don't want to crawl back under the car? Is that a female socket?
*dry* Most sockets are female, most bits are male. */dry*

Yes, it's a female socket.

Think of the female to a Torx(tm) bit.

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post #149 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich95XR7 View Post
Well, after reading at least 2 posts per day about clunking, I've made this sticky. I will list common things that "clunk" on the MN12 chassis here, and if you can think of any more not listed, add them on, and I'll consolidate the list. I hope this will help people out, and maybe cut down on repetitive posts.

1. Upper Ball Joints
2. Lower Ball Joints
3. Swaybar endlink bushings
4. Brake Calipers
5. strut rod bushings
6. Lower Control Arm shock mount bushing
7. Loose upper shock mount/subframe bolts
8. Tie Rods
9. Broken Spring
10. Loose lower shock mounting bolt
11. Steering Rack
I did my suspension and have clunking all over.

1. I loosened the pinch bolt and separated the upper from lower, but its tight.
2. didn't mess with it
3. yes this may be one thing I think causing my issue, got new ones for both sides, I know I didn't tighten them that tight because I put it together of the ground and didn't want to tighten it to tight like that, I will tighten tomorrow is there such a thing as too tight?
4 Didn't mess with any of them
5. Shock bottom bolt on front could be tightened more but I put tokicos in and when I was tightening it There was some slack between where it mounts and I tightened it enough to make it take up the slack and touch like the old one did. Shock bolt on the back is tight as it can be, the top on the rear seems tight also seems like its spinning and can't get tighter, i had a friend hold the bottom bushing on the outside to keep from spinning while I tightened the bolt inside. I put Bilisteins in the rear and can count 6 threads, can't get it any tighter. Is there something better to hold to keep it from spinning?
6. It didn't knock before... didn't damage anything
7. they are tight
8. Didn't mess with those no noise before
9. new springs Vogtland 1"
10. see 5
11. Didn't mess with it no noise before

Any one have any thought from personal experience, with similar set up?
I reused all hardware is there any one time use hardware?
used new shock mounts.
I'm going to find the specs seen it here some where and double check everything tomorrow.
Alignment seems good too
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post #150 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-31-2013, 02:44 AM
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It doesn't sound like you torqued everything to specs, it could explain your clunking. Torque everything down before you damage something!

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