Things to check if you hear clunking from your suspension - TCCoA Forums

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post #1 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-22-2004, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Things to check if you hear clunking from your suspension

Well, after reading at least 2 posts per day about clunking, I've made this sticky. I will list common things that "clunk" on the MN12 chassis here, and if you can think of any more not listed, add them on, and I'll consolidate the list. I hope this will help people out, and maybe cut down on repetitive posts.

1. Upper Ball Joints
2. Lower Ball Joints
3. Swaybar endlink bushings
4. Brake Calipers
5. strut rod bushings
6. Lower Control Arm shock mount bushing
7. Loose upper shock mount/subframe bolts
8. Tie Rods
9. Broken Spring
10. Loose lower shock mounting bolt
11. Steering Rack

Last edited by Rich95XR7; 06-23-2004 at 08:03 PM.
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post #2 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-22-2004, 03:38 PM
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Good list.
But I have a concern. I don't know what some of those things are. I'm sure I'll eventually learn them, but with someone that doesn't yet know what all those parts are and where they're located, that could be a bit difficult.

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post #3 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-23-2004, 06:38 PM
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hey, do you mean Front AND rear sway bar endlink bushings?? when i step on gas, i hear a clunk..

changed tranny mount, IRS bushings, and U-joints.. turns out. my right side sway bar endlink bushing is BYE BYE..
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post #4 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-23-2004, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, this is more gears toward front suspension. Rear is pretty easy to diagnose. I had a clunking in my rear end, and it was a loose lower shock bolt. Not loose enough to see it visually, but I just got tired of hearing the clunk, so I started tightening everything, and the rear shock was about 2 turns from being all the way tight.
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post #5 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-23-2004, 07:44 PM
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add Steering rack to the list.....i had a clunk and changed the whole front end:

Upper ball joint x 2
Lower ball joint x 2
Endlinks x 2
Sway Bar bushings x 2
Inner tie rod x 2
Outer Tie Rod x 2
Steering Rack (a1 cardone aka a1 crap)
Pads
Rotors
Strut rod to lower arm bushings
Strut rod to frame bushings
Vogtland Springs
Front Upper Spring Isolators x 2
Shocks


to chase it down (it needed to be done anyways) and it ended up being the rack and pinion. put a motorcraft in there and all is perfect now......

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post #6 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-06-2004, 01:41 PM
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I agree with Allen, somebody should make a diagram or take some pictures, so we can identify the suspension pieces.

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post #7 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-13-2004, 02:18 PM
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Did some searching.
Check out this site. It has a good diagram of a conventional suspension setup. I learned a dozen things from just this picture.
It also has a FWD setup on there too.

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post #8 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-14-2004, 09:06 AM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally posted by Grasshopper
...Check out this site. It has a good diagram of a conventional suspension setup. I learned a dozen things from just this picture...
Great Post Grass! and the parts list was cool too!

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post #9 of 181 (permalink) Old 08-10-2004, 02:59 PM
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I work in the service shop of a Ford delaership and my mentor and I chased a clunking in a 95 T-Bird, and it ended up being the rear shock bushing, we replaced the rear shocks and it was gone.

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post #10 of 181 (permalink) Old 08-12-2004, 11:44 PM
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awesome, thanks for the list. I've had clunking coming from my front end corners going through turns, while speeding up and/or (figure out up AND down out at the same time, I dare you :p) slowing down. I think either bushings, joints, etc. I've got a buddy who'll throw it up on a rack and look at it for me, hopefully he'll find out what's wrong. Again, thanks for a good sticky

+1

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post #11 of 181 (permalink) Old 09-18-2004, 11:58 AM
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Addition to the clunk SOLUTIONs.

I could make it clunk by punching the brake when backing out. I could also hear it on weird driveway approaches.

First, to finally assess it.
I put a long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 3/4" socket on the end and put it on a lug nut. Car is on the ground. I orient it so that I can move the bar laterally parallel to the ground to impart force at the hub. Position myself so I can watch the front strut arm bushing at the K member. Pull hard forward. OMG! Huge deflection. Pushed it rearward ,not much to see. Probably biased to the rear. This is on the driver's side.
Passenger side, barely any deflection at all. Looks like rubber compression more than a displacement.

I removed the front nut on the driver's side, it was tighter than ..... well it was tight.
Got it off and pulled off the sleeve.
Sleeve measures 2-5/8" long. 66mm.
Out comes the chop saw.
I removed 3/16" from the sleeve.
Reassembled, first I moved the rear nut up towards the front about 3/16" to compensate and keep from messing up the alignment too much, reinstalled the hardware and tighened it all up.
Put the car back down, tested again.

VOILA! It only move a bit, like the rubber is compressing.

Now, stabbing the brake, no clunk at all.
This also may explain a high speed vibe that I have tried to get rid of since getting the car. This may have allowed the driver's side front to shimmy since there was play in it.

Updates if I find out more.

UPDATE: Definite improvement on the high speed vibe issue. Also, the car is less prone to rut-steer. Noticed myself bracing the wheel against known ruts and car did not wander near as bad as before.

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Last edited by RichardM; 09-19-2004 at 09:08 PM.
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post #12 of 181 (permalink) Old 10-08-2004, 07:54 PM
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Found and Fixed my clunk, finally. It ended up being the LCA shock bushing, or lack there of. Ordered 2 new ones from RockAuto and Voila' clunk all gone. She rides Awesome now. Alignment is screwed up now, but someone else can fix that. I can do a u-turn without my hands on the wheel......weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

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post #13 of 181 (permalink) Old 10-18-2004, 06:51 PM
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well i came here to see if there was anything on upper control arms ... noticed about 2 hrs ago that both my front upper control arm joints are needing to be changed VERY soon. Can i press out the old ball joint and put in another or will i have to change entire upper control arms?

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post #14 of 181 (permalink) Old 10-18-2004, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by ITT-BIRD
well i came here to see if there was anything on upper control arms ... noticed about 2 hrs ago that both my front upper control arm joints are needing to be changed VERY soon. Can i press out the old ball joint and put in another or will i have to change entire upper control arms?
Most people just get a new control arm assembly.
You should be able to find just the ball joints and press out the old & press in the new. Since you will have the upper control arm out anyway, you might as well replace the bushings. RockAuto has Moog upper control arm bushings for $18.65 a side.
RockAuto also has the Moog upper control arm assemblies for $56.79 each before the 5% discount, which comes with new ball joints & bushings.
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post #15 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-02-2004, 01:58 PM
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If you own a Mark VIII,

rear upper shock mounts(notorious failure)
trunk latch
trunk hinges
small wiring block behind L/R hinge(hits trunk hinge)
rear shock actuators(93-94 only)
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post #16 of 181 (permalink) Old 01-31-2005, 07:31 PM
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re: clunking front end: I added a lock washer to the backend of my left side ( the clunking side) strut bar, in front of that one pound nut. It stopped the clunking and the bushing squeaking on roller coaster roads, too.
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post #17 of 181 (permalink) Old 03-06-2005, 12:03 AM
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Mine makes rattling sounds on anything other than a perfecty smooth road surface. It steers, and tracks fine, the tire-wear is fine. i don't feel it through the wheel. I've had it on a lift, can't detect anything obvious. A drive-on lift so the suspension isn't extended, is the next try. No bad ball-joint boots, or obvious flattened bushings. Sway-bar links look ok. Even had a look at the trans crossmember isolators, All looks fine. But, something ain't. Any guesses?
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post #18 of 181 (permalink) Old 03-23-2005, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Rattling Sucks!!!!!!!!

My last pita rattle was a brake caliper bushings. Brakes felt fine, they just rattled.

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post #19 of 181 (permalink) Old 03-23-2005, 07:47 PM
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Yeah, you can get UCAs w/ balljoint/bushing for the same price at your local O' Reilleys. They are lifetime warranty! If you want to see a pic PM me.

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post #20 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-12-2005, 12:54 PM
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What I like to do is strap my 2 year old under the front bumper as I am driving and let her tell me what is clunking.
Calm down, I'm kidding. Seriously though, I have had a rattle for 2 years now somewhere under my front end, not much, only when I am going over really bad road at slow speeds. I replaced the UCA's last year, and other than the rattle, my suspension is extremely good. I figure one of these days I will get my LCA's and sway bar plus the full front end poly bushing kit , just too much else on my plate right now.

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post #21 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-09-2005, 02:27 AM
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When turning sharply (Like into the driveway) I have a nasty 'clunck'. Also when reversing. Sometimes I can feel it in the wheel. I looked at everything. All suspension is great. Yesterday I noticed the tension strut bushings where they bolt through the frame had disturbed rust. It looks like there is a lot of slop. Dribbled some oil on both of 'em and my clunks were minimized. Just had an alignment and they didn't catch it. Said they heard it but didn't know what the problem was.

Tension strut connects the LCA to the frame.

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post #22 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-15-2005, 09:01 PM
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Loud clunk when going to reverse= Rear Diff bushings

We put my TL rear in late night after all parts places were closed so we had to finish even though we found out the rear diff bushings we tore all to hell...definitely the cause of the loud rear clunk.
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post #23 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-15-2005, 10:36 PM
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Now that's one I gotta see

+1

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post #24 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-17-2005, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich95XR7
Well, after reading at least 2 posts per day about clunking, I've made this sticky. I will list common things that "clunk" on the MN12 chassis here, and if you can think of any more not listed, add them on, and I'll consolidate the list. I hope this will help people out, and maybe cut down on repetitive posts.

...
3. Swaybar endlink bushings
...
Last summer, it was my rear sway bar end link bushings. This summer, it was my front sway bar end links. Oh, and I found out that '94 Cougar front stablizer end links aren't the same as '95 Thunderbird front stabilizer end links. The counter guy kept thinking my car was a Cougar even though I told him it was a TBird at least 7 times plus the four times when I had him write it on receipts. When he called for parts, he still asked for Cougar end links.

Oh, and talk about stealerships...I already knew never to go to SOUTHWAY FORD because of their outrageous prices. However, I didn't know this garage was ordering from there. I thought they were going to O'Reilly's or Full Service.

2 front stabilizer end links @ $59 a piece! Compare that to Dan Newman's $34 a piece + shipping, and the $46 a piece retail.

I come from a dusty place.
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post #25 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-15-2005, 12:56 PM
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Front end right side popping noise

I have a 96 thunderbird with a 4.6L V8, my car has had a popping noise from the passanger side for about a month now. When I go over bumps or when I make a turn to the left like when I go up my driveway at home it makes a popping noise. I have replaced just about everything I thought it could be on both side even though nothing was heard from the drivers side. So far I have replaced the following:

UPPER COTROL ARM ASSEMBLEY WITH BALL JOINTS X2
LOWER BALL JOINTS X2
END LINK KIT X2
STRUTS WITH NEW COIL SPRINGS X2

I have also replaced some other parts that I do not even know what they are called. They said it was the stabalizer bar, the one that comes from the front of the car to the lower control arm. I have also repleace the front brakes (rotors and calipers) because samone had said it could be the brake calipers. I have put well over $1200 in the car and the noise is still there. I dont know what do do anymore, does any one have any suggestions. THANKS
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post #26 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-19-2005, 10:17 PM
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My swaybar end link bushings were non-existent, too, but that was only one rattle I fixed. I also put in poly differential snout bushings and made the rear differential mount solid (hi-res pics available if anyone wants them; just PM me).

My real PITA was another rattle, coming from the right rear over bumps. It turned out to be the plastic guard that covers the fuel filler and vent piping. Took me forever to figure that out. It isn't attached very well, so I'm going to find a way to make it attach a little more solid to the underbody.

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post #27 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-25-2005, 11:31 AM
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Two more things to check if you hear a clunk.

1. Sway bar collar bolts (where the sway bar bolts to the subframe....2 per side). Mine were loose and caused clunking but didn't solve my problem 100%

2. MOOG Strut rod bushings....To ARM. I had a problem that the car would clunk when making turns (usually while slowing down) and when going on uneven pavement. Well it turns out that the strut rod bushings to the lower control arms that i replaced the OEM's with came with a sleeve that's slightly longer than the OEMs. Again, i'm NOT talking about the strut rod to FRAME side which also comes with sleeves that are too long, but rather the one's to the arm. I grabbed the wheel while holding the arm bushings and shook the car back and forth and noticed movement so i cut the sleeve just a tad bit and put it back in and now it's snug as ever and no more clunking....woohoo!
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post #28 of 181 (permalink) Old 07-25-2005, 11:10 PM
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Talking Front end right side popping noise

Well $1200 dollars later and I come to find out my noise was a loose bolt on the lower control arm right side. Oh well, at least I know my front end is pretty much brand new and the ride is awesome. What upset me the most was so many mechanics and no one knew the problem or did they. I guess like they say if you want it done right do it yourself.
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post #29 of 181 (permalink) Old 09-18-2005, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by res
Mine makes rattling sounds on anything other than a perfecty smooth road surface. It steers, and tracks fine, the tire-wear is fine. i don't feel it through the wheel. I've had it on a lift, can't detect anything obvious. A drive-on lift so the suspension isn't extended, is the next try. No bad ball-joint boots, or obvious flattened bushings. Sway-bar links look ok. Even had a look at the trans crossmember isolators, All looks fine. But, something ain't. Any guesses?

Not sure "what done it", but, when my car needed it's transmission rebuilt, (lost OD), I had a trusted friend/shop owner fix what ever he decided needed fixing. New UCA's, sway bar links, tie-rod ends...It's quiet now, all is well....for the moment.
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post #30 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-11-2005, 01:12 PM
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i had a front end clunk that i couldn't find after replacing alot of suspension (needed it anyway). the clunk turned out to be that my hood struts had gone bad, and the hood was clunking.


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