Finally biting the bullet. Er, cobra... - Page 2 - TCCoA Forums

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post #31 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Eh. I'll just grind it off and paint it.

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post #32 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 09:55 PM
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Blasphemy!

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post #33 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-04-2017, 07:21 AM
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Of course, they show up and one side has COBRA and the other side doesn't.
I told you this would happen. It happens every time
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post #34 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-04-2017, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
Eh. I'll just grind it off and paint it.
That would be my suggestion, actually just ground off (without the paint)

I'm soooo over painted calipers..


When I placed my order for these..
I ordered the Raybestos Pro Caliper Assembly, which included the Caliper,Caliper Bracket,Bleeder Valve Screw and Clevis Pin..
The only thing that wasn't in the box was a Banjo Bolt..

Oh yeah, and they both came without the "Cobra" lettering on them..

In case anyone's interested, here's the part numbers:

Raybestos Pro Caliper Assembly [Driver Side] FRC10604
Raybestos Pro Caliper Assembly [Passenger Side] FRC10603

Someday, I'll actually get these installed..






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post #35 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-04-2017, 12:31 PM
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Problem is when you leave them bare you're opening them up to grime and corrosion, cast aluminum ends up looking crappy even in mild environments. I'm over painting them in rainbow colors, but definitely not over painting them. Same with rotor hats/vents for that matter.

-Matt
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post #36 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-04-2017, 01:01 PM
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Eastwood makes some good products, especially with bare metal in mind..

This stuff could be the ticket for bare parts, you just want to protect-->>Eastwood ExoArmour

Look at the temperature resistance!
Quote:
Wipe on, spray or dip to protect bare metal, paint, fiberglass and more.

•Easy to apply - Wipe on, spray on, or dip
•Protects bare metal, plastic, fiberglass, ceramic and painted surfaces
•Tested to 2000F degree for temperature resistance
•Passed 4000 hour salt spray test
•Unaffected by MEK and other solvents

This easy to apply clear coating will protect almost anything from corrosion, UV damage, and more.
Originally developed for military and aviation applications.
This tough flexible coating has been tested for 2000 F degree temperature, and 4000 hours of salt spray resistance.
It won’t yellow, crack or peel, and isn’t affected by solvents or chemicals. Great for keeping polished aluminum at its mirror finish best.
Use it to protect metal brake and fuel lines, as well as other under car parts. Protects without adding a glossy finish.




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post #37 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-04-2017, 02:05 PM
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As great as eastwood products are, they're way overkill for what are wear items, VHT or duplicolor high temp do just fine in this application

-Matt
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post #38 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-04-2017, 04:50 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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I painted the alternator I rebuilt with the duplicolor chrome paint, and it looks great; it's not gloss chrome, but it's nice looking, and it's a hi-temp paint to boot.

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post #39 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-04-2017, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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There was some roughness where I ground down the letters, so some paint to help conceal that was definitely in order.

I was on the fence between silvery-gray and red... but I figured red would be fairly convincing since that's the color of the car. If I hate it, I can paint them again.

-Brandon
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post #40 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 11:35 PM
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Flashback Drivers UCA

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Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Mine weren't very corroded, but my car is very clean for the region and I'm happy to say, knock on wood, I've never used a torch on a single bolt or nut, and I've done all but 4 of them(I think you can guess what they are). The ones I hate wrenching are ones like the drivers UCA where you make tedius 1/8th turns of a nyloc nut for 20 minutes, the good part about the backing plate bolts in that regard is they aren't at all recessed so you can at least get a good half turn in for all the effort you put in.
That UCA bolt is one of the worst ever. slow to remove, just as slow to install. i almost removed my master cylinder to get more room. there is barely enough space to even get one click on my ratcheting wrenches. I'd rather replace my blend door motor.

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post #41 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 11:54 PM
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Ugh, tell me about it! I still have yet to reinstall the driver side UCA in mine after cleaning up the inner shock towers last month. And I don't even have ratcheting wrenches, just combos where I turn, flip, turn, flip, turn, flip, turn, flip, turn.... about a million times

-Matt
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post #42 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 12:01 AM
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With the stainless lines, do you still need to do grinding to fit the brake hose?

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post #43 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 12:05 AM
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Ieven tried my Snap On multi angle wrenches to get more per stroke. I don't think 1/8 is even close. Ibet its more like 1/32.

I used a gearwrench ratcheting wrench. i think the whole set of @20 pieces - 10 metric, 10 sae, cost $50. i actually made a mistake and bought two sets, so Imight have an extra set, but i bet it would be cheaper to buy direct from sears and get free shipping.

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post #44 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 12:20 AM
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Do NOTtry to repair the shield

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Hm. Arrighty, I'll get the stuff ordered (once the wife unit gives the green light) and see how it works out. Maybe I'll try and braze the busted off bottom half of the busted off part of the old splash shield back together. Assuming it's not too rusted out.

You're much better of without it then with it repaired. If your repair breaks, and the piece comes loose it could cut the brake lne, damage the tire. etc. All being bad things especially at speed. The pounding and vibration that those unsprung items take is crazy.

Always best to put it back the way it came, so I'd try to find a used one and put it on asap, but I definitely stress again not to try a fix.

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post #45 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Fair enough. Suits my extreme laziness tendencies.

I got the driver's side together and started trying to bleed it a week or so ago, but it wasn't passing any fluid and the fluid level in the reservoir wasn't going down. I originally (accidentally) tried to put the hose on upside-down at the caliper but figured that out quickly, but with the apparent line block somewhere I need to spend some time to see what the heck I messed up (or is otherwise wrong) so I can wrap this little project up. Warm weather finally should make that a little more feasible this weekend...

And no, no grinding with the SS lines, my old PBRs' banjo bolts even fit too.

-Brandon
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post #46 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 09:47 AM
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If the system was opened for a while and leaked all the fluid out, then the master cylinder will be dry, and you won't be able to bleed the brakes by gravity or by the conventional pump-hold-open method because the air gets bound up in the master. At this point, you will have to either bench bleed the master cylinder, or what I do for this is get a long clear vacuum hose that will fit snugly on the bleeder, about 2ft long, and an empty clear bottle, like a Snapple or Gatorade bottle. Fill the reservoir, and fill the bottle about 1/3 up with fresh brake fluid, put one end of the hose into the bottle and the other end on the bleeder, and then make sure the bottom of the bottle is above the bleeder and below the master cylinder. Now open the bleeder, go inside the car, and pump the pedal slowly. This way as the air comes out, it sucks fluid back in instead of air. Using the clear tube and bottle will allow you to see any air bubbles in the system, and when there are no more air bubbles coming out, you are good. With the dry master cylinder, you may have to do each wheel twice to get everything out, but that is a way of bleeding the brakes by yourself. As always, just make sure the reservoir never goes dry during this process, or you will be right back where you started.

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post #47 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Ugh, tell me about it! I still have yet to reinstall the driver side UCA in mine after cleaning up the inner shock towers last month. And I don't even have ratcheting wrenches, just combos where I turn, flip, turn, flip, turn, flip, turn, flip, turn.... about a million times
Dude, just go to your local hardware store and buy one for 18mm for $10. You'll be slapping yourself for not doing it sooner.

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post #48 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 11:53 AM
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Nah.

-Matt
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post #49 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
If the system was opened for a while and leaked all the fluid out, then the master cylinder will be dry, and you won't be able to bleed the brakes by gravity or by the conventional pump-hold-open method because the air gets bound up in the master. At this point, you will have to either bench bleed the master cylinder, or what I do for this is get a long clear vacuum hose that will fit snugly on the bleeder, about 2ft long, and an empty clear bottle, like a Snapple or Gatorade bottle. Fill the reservoir, and fill the bottle about 1/3 up with fresh brake fluid, put one end of the hose into the bottle and the other end on the bleeder, and then make sure the bottom of the bottle is above the bleeder and below the master cylinder. Now open the bleeder, go inside the car, and pump the pedal slowly. This way as the air comes out, it sucks fluid back in instead of air. Using the clear tube and bottle will allow you to see any air bubbles in the system, and when there are no more air bubbles coming out, you are good. With the dry master cylinder, you may have to do each wheel twice to get everything out, but that is a way of bleeding the brakes by yourself. As always, just make sure the reservoir never goes dry during this process, or you will be right back where you started.
Strangely enough, all I did was loosen the banjo bolt at the caliper, and the caliper filled up with fluid after that, and it bled normally from there. The other side did the same thing too. Reservoir never went less than 1/2 full either.

In any case, it's back together now. Just need to finish bedding in the rotors and pads.

From this:


In progress... (yes, I had to use an oxy-mapp torch to free the brake line from the nut to avoid kinking it as I removed it...)


To this.
Grog6 and CDsDontBurn like this.

-Brandon
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96 Ivory Mark VIII 233k, stock 4.6 32v on coils; New engine at 185k
Gone but not forgotten: 94 Cougar XR7, 93 Mark VIII

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Once you have tasted flight, you will walk the world with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return. -Leonardo da Vinci

Last edited by theterminator93; 03-24-2017 at 05:50 PM.
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post #50 of 50 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 07:22 AM
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Looking good Brandon..

Those platters fill up your 17" wheels nicely..

I wonder how small they would look in relation to an 18" wheel..







Rayo..

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