Finally biting the bullet. Er, cobra... - TCCoA Forums

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post #1 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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Finally biting the bullet. Er, cobra...

So last year after I got an alignment after doing tie rods, the shop (morons) overtightened the lug nuts on one side and it warped the rotor pretty badly. I've also had a sneaking suspicion that the used 15" PBRs I got close to 7 or 8 years ago weren't releasing well causing drag too, and with the 17" wheels I've had for years now I've been on-and-off wanting to do the 13" brake upgrade.

The perfect opportunity has presented itself as a result of procrastination!

I've collected all the parts in my RockAuto cart - reman OEM calipers with brackets for a 99 Mach 1 from Cardone without any graphics or writing, and Raybestos's "Advanced Technology" non drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads. One thing I haven't really seen covered however is the topic of replacing the splash shields.

I don't really drive the car in ANY conditions other than dry and sunny anymore, so it's not a terribly major oversight if I skip it entirely. However, last year the bottom half of the shield on one side broke off and I've neglected to reattach it or repair it due to ... procrastination. So here again, good opportunity to address that with new parts.

I see these larger splash shields available for sale, but has anyone tried making one fit on our spindles, or know if it'd likely work with either no or minor modifications?

-Brandon
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post #2 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 10:13 AM
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Bullitt calipers are Cobra calipers too

The stock splash shields are oversized enough to cover 13" rotors just fine, and since your car isn't being winter driven they really aren't necessary

-Matt
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post #3 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 11:16 AM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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The splash shields are tough to remove, unless the hub is out of the way.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #4 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 11:34 AM
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Not really, all three rivets are outside the perimeter of the hub on the front. The rear is worse but you still can access the bolts with a wrench.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0622.JPG (1.67 MB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0623.JPG (1.76 MB, 5 views)

-Matt
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post #5 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 11:47 AM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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The rear ones are locktited in, and taking them out with a wrench is a drag; you'll see what I mean.

The second one I waited until I pulled the hub apart to remove, scrub, and paint.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #6 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Hm. Arrighty, I'll get the stuff ordered (once the wife unit gives the green light) and see how it works out. Maybe I'll try and braze the busted off bottom half of the busted off part of the old splash shield back together. Assuming it's not too rusted out.

-Brandon
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post #7 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 12:00 PM
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I did the rears when I did the hub swap 10 years ago, they suck but I've dealt with way worse on this platform

-Matt
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post #8 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 12:10 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Yeah; Me too.

I just hate bolts that have to be Wrenched All the Way out.

And the heads are Just Exactly where you can't get a swivel or pivot on them; and were a bit much for the 1/4" driver... So I ended up using a L-key and a cheater.

Remember, I have Rust-Free Southern Cars; If I need a prybar, you guys usually need torches.

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post #9 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 12:50 PM
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Mine weren't very corroded, but my car is very clean for the region and I'm happy to say, knock on wood, I've never used a torch on a single bolt or nut, and I've done all but 4 of them(I think you can guess what they are). The ones I hate wrenching are ones like the drivers UCA where you make tedius 1/8th turns of a nyloc nut for 20 minutes, the good part about the backing plate bolts in that regard is they aren't at all recessed so you can at least get a good half turn in for all the effort you put in.
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-Matt
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post #10 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 01:51 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Mine weren't very corroded, but my car is very clean for the region and I'm happy to say, knock on wood, I've never used a torch on a single bolt or nut, and I've done all but 4 of them(I think you can guess what they are). The ones I hate wrenching are ones like the drivers UCA where you make tedius 1/8th turns of a nyloc nut for 20 minutes, the good part about the backing plate bolts in that regard is they aren't at all recessed so you can at least get a good half turn in for all the effort you put in.
Yeah, all of y'all's cars are way better taken care of than average, and not driven in crap weather; but few of us bought our cars new, with a plan to keep them.

I just seem to remember this "Paint Job" as one of the more PITA jobs I've done yet; and the whole time you're thinking "Why do these bolts need to be 3/4" long, when 3/8" would have been just fine with that locktite?"

Same thing on the front bolt(s); If that attachment you're working thru's mounting point was just a Bit further over, you could get another click; but Noooo.

They could have moved the boss until you could get a swivel on it, but Noooo. (Channeling Steve Martin, if anyone remembers that far back...)

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #11 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Mine's not awful, but it did get driven in winters-only for a number of years. I'm astonished it's not worse than it is. It needs more going over (just something I don't have the time, resources, or money to have done) to really de-rust it properly...

And yeah, those four bolts Matt mentions... they scare me too lol.

-Brandon
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post #12 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 06:25 PM
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You'll love the Cobra ... er Bullitt calipers. They're a great upgrade over stock. I was very impressed with the difference after switching mine.

Don't forget the Banjo bolts!

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

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post #13 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Are they the same as the 15" PBRs?

-Brandon
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post #14 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Bullitt calipers are Cobra calipers too

The stock splash shields are oversized enough to cover 13" rotors just fine, and since your car isn't being winter driven they really aren't necessary
I guess he wanted bullets because they won't have cobra on them. When I ordered cobra I got one with cobra on it and the other didn't so I had to grind cobra off the other one to match
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post #15 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 07:24 PM
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I'd have sent the other one back. How dare you grind COBRA off of a brake caliper!

Now, on the other hand, Darren got a set with Mustangs on them and he ground the Mustangs off. Which is completely acceptable.

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

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post #16 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 07:28 PM
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Yeah I love the Cobra lettering, I purposely got mine used and rebuilt them just to have it

-Matt
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post #17 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 04:53 PM
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I'd want the Cobra stuff, just 'cuz, right?

4 bolts; Are we talking about the 4 IRS bolts, or what?

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #18 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 05:08 PM
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Ding! Ding Ding!

I'll hit them one of these days and deal with the hell, but not until I find a southern car IRS cradle to swap in

-Matt
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post #19 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 07:12 PM
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I'd have sent the other one back. How dare you grind COBRA off of a brake caliper!

Now, on the other hand, Darren got a set with Mustangs on them and he ground the Mustangs off. Which is completely acceptable.
I tried to return and order another the idiot at the parts store refused, he said he can't guarantee the new will have cobra on it.
And wouldn't return just because it didn't have lettering on it.
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post #20 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 03:55 PM
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Just wondering, since you have everything ready to order how much is it running you?
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post #21 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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With shipping, core charges and the 5% rockauto discount, it cost me $390. I don't know if they'll accept a different part (e.g. the 15" GT PBRs) as a core return - but if they do, I'll get $67 back (less return shipping) which would drop the total cost down to probably $340ish. I'm going to try and drill the rotors myself.

Edit: Nevermind, I almost forgot the PBRs have been ground down to allow using the stock MN12 front brake lines. No core returns on those!!

-Brandon
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post #22 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 04:28 PM
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you should have ground the brake line block rather than the caliper, then you'd be able to plug and play with the Cobras too.

-Matt
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post #23 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 05:27 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Buy Stainless steel lines; they are easier to install, and work very well.

I'm running these:

SpinningWheels-SC - > Brakes

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.

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post #24 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I already have those SS lines... those are going on with the calipers.

I started putting them on last winter but lost motivation after doing one of the rears.

-Brandon
97 Laser Red Thunderbird LX 156k, Stage 2 4.6L 2v N/A | 300 BHP (255 RWHP, 290 RWTQ) | 13.95 @ 97.58 | Build details | Pics at the Lorain Assembly plant
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post #25 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-01-2017, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1995 cougar xr7 View Post
I tried to return and order another the idiot at the parts store refused, he said he can't guarantee the new will have cobra on it.
And wouldn't return just because it didn't have lettering on it.
I would have returned it 10x if I had to, unless I was too excited or 'had to' replace my brakes,
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post #26 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-01-2017, 09:06 AM
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I don't know what yous guys' problem is with those IRS bolts..... If you need a set, let me know.

On topic: I love my Cobra front/rear setup. I can feel a large improvement over the PBR front/stock rear. Stock dust shield will work on both 13"/11.65" front/rear rotors without issue.
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post #27 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-01-2017, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
With shipping, core charges and the 5% rockauto discount, it cost me $390. I don't know if they'll accept a different part (e.g. the 15" GT PBRs) as a core return - but if they do, I'll get $67 back (less return shipping) which would drop the total cost down to probably $340ish. I'm going to try and drill the rotors myself.

Edit: Nevermind, I almost forgot the PBRs have been ground down to allow using the stock MN12 front brake lines. No core returns on those!!
Does that mean your PBRs will be sold after you're done with the install? It's possible I might buy them if that's the case.
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post #28 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-01-2017, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Sure, I'd rather have them go to someone who'd use than than scrap them. Send me a PM and we can discuss details...

-Brandon
97 Laser Red Thunderbird LX 156k, Stage 2 4.6L 2v N/A | 300 BHP (255 RWHP, 290 RWTQ) | 13.95 @ 97.58 | Build details | Pics at the Lorain Assembly plant
96 Ivory Mark VIII 235k, stock 4.6 32v on coils; New engine at 185k
Gone but not forgotten: 94 Cougar XR7, 93 Mark VIII

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Once you have tasted flight, you will walk the world with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return. -Leonardo da Vinci
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post #29 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Of course, they show up and one side has COBRA and the other side doesn't.

-Brandon
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Once you have tasted flight, you will walk the world with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return. -Leonardo da Vinci
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post #30 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 06:41 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Banning, CA
Age: 33
Posts: 1,505
Sounds like another RockAuto saga is about to begin....

'97 Bird, "Pearl": L/R 2.5in Magnaflow Hi-Flow CATs | PI Intake & PI Cams | Suspension Rebuild

'13 Taurus, "The Bull": 3.5L Goodness

'00 2dr v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Greddy SP2 CAT-Back | Eibach ProKit springs | Eibach F/R Sway Bars | KYB-GR2 struts
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