So last year after I got an alignment after doing tie rods, the shop (morons) overtightened the lug nuts on one side and it warped the rotor pretty badly. I've also had a sneaking suspicion that the used 15" PBRs I got close to 7 or 8 years ago weren't releasing well causing drag too, and with the 17" wheels I've had for years now I've been on-and-off wanting to do the 13" brake upgrade.
The perfect opportunity has presented itself as a result of procrastination!
I've collected all the parts in my RockAuto cart - reman OEM calipers with brackets for a 99 Mach 1 from Cardone without any graphics or writing, and Raybestos's "Advanced Technology" non drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads. One thing I haven't really seen covered however is the topic of replacing the splash shields.
I don't really drive the car in ANY conditions other than dry and sunny anymore, so it's not a terribly major oversight if I skip it entirely. However, last year the bottom half of the shield on one side broke off and I've neglected to reattach it or repair it due to ... procrastination. So here again, good opportunity to address that with new parts.
I see these larger splash shields available for sale, but has anyone tried making one fit on our spindles, or know if it'd likely work with either no or minor modifications?
I guess he wanted bullets because they won't have cobra on them. When I ordered cobra I got one with cobra on it and the other didn't so I had to grind cobra off the other one to match
Hm. Arrighty, I'll get the stuff ordered (once the wife unit gives the green light) and see how it works out. Maybe I'll try and braze the busted off bottom half of the busted off part of the old splash shield back together. Assuming it's not too rusted out.
You're much better of without it then with it repaired. If your repair breaks, and the piece comes loose it could cut the brake lne, damage the tire. etc. All being bad things especially at speed. The pounding and vibration that those unsprung items take is crazy.
Always best to put it back the way it came, so I'd try to find a used one and put it on asap, but I definitely stress again not to try a fix.
I just hate bolts that have to be Wrenched All the Way out.
And the heads are Just Exactly where you can't get a swivel or pivot on them; and were a bit much for the 1/4" driver... So I ended up using a L-key and a cheater. :facepalm:
Remember, I have Rust-Free Southern Cars; If I need a prybar, you guys usually need torches.
Mine weren't very corroded, but my car is very clean for the region and I'm happy to say, knock on wood, I've never used a torch on a single bolt or nut, and I've done all but 4 of them(I think you can guess what they are). The ones I hate wrenching are ones like the drivers UCA where you make tedius 1/8th turns of a nyloc nut for 20 minutes, the good part about the backing plate bolts in that regard is they aren't at all recessed so you can at least get a good half turn in for all the effort you put in.
Yeah, all of y'all's cars are way better taken care of than average, and not driven in crap weather; but few of us bought our cars new, with a plan to keep them.
I just seem to remember this "Paint Job" as one of the more PITA jobs I've done yet; and the whole time you're thinking "Why do these bolts need to be 3/4" long, when 3/8" would have been just fine with that locktite?"
Same thing on the front bolt(s); If that attachment you're working thru's mounting point was just a Bit further over, you could get another click; but Noooo.
They could have moved the boss until you could get a swivel on it, but Noooo. (Channeling Steve Martin, if anyone remembers that far back...)
Mine's not awful, but it did get driven in winters-only for a number of years. I'm astonished it's not worse than it is. It needs more going over (just something I don't have the time, resources, or money to have done) to really de-rust it properly...
And yeah, those four bolts Matt mentions... they scare me too lol.
I tried to return and order another the idiot at the parts store refused, he said he can't guarantee the new will have cobra on it.
And wouldn't return just because it didn't have lettering on it.
With shipping, core charges and the 5% rockauto discount, it cost me $390. I don't know if they'll accept a different part (e.g. the 15" GT PBRs) as a core return - but if they do, I'll get $67 back (less return shipping) which would drop the total cost down to probably $340ish. I'm going to try and drill the rotors myself.
Edit: Nevermind, I almost forgot the PBRs have been ground down to allow using the stock MN12 front brake lines. No core returns on those!!
I don't know what yous guys' problem is with those IRS bolts..... :wink2: If you need a set, let me know.
On topic: I love my Cobra front/rear setup. I can feel a large improvement over the PBR front/stock rear. Stock dust shield will work on both 13"/11.65" front/rear rotors without issue.
That would be my suggestion, actually just ground off (without the paint)
I'm soooo over painted calipers..
When I placed my order for these..
I ordered the Raybestos Pro Caliper Assembly, which included the Caliper,Caliper Bracket,Bleeder Valve Screw and Clevis Pin..
The only thing that wasn't in the box was a Banjo Bolt..
Oh yeah, and they both came without the "Cobra" lettering on them..
In case anyone's interested, here's the part numbers:
Raybestos Pro Caliper Assembly [Driver Side] FRC10604
Raybestos Pro Caliper Assembly [Passenger Side] FRC10603
Someday, I'll actually get these installed..
Rayo..
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