Mustang PBR Calipers to Thunderbird Conversion and problems - Page 2 - TCCoA Forums

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post #31 of 130 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 07:35 AM
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Another Banjo bolt option

I ordered my cobra calipers and banjo bolts through Steeda. The banjo bolts that they provide are a GM part #10286122. Since they only sent one, I happen to know that you can buy them through a dealer for 4.25, instead of the 29 bucks a Ford dealer wanted for the PBR bolts. Note, this is the fine thread bolt and will not fit the anniversary calipers.
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post #32 of 130 (permalink) Old 04-11-2007, 07:46 PM
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My pbr calipers drag slightly after a stop. Once rolled a few times the slight drag stops. The pedal also seems very slightly lower. The old calipers would immediately completely release. The braking power is definitely increased. Both pbr's with brackets weigh about the same as one iron caliper and bracket.

I bought 2 calipers loaded with brackets, bolts and barely used factory pads. Cost $40.00. The used pads will work until the rotors seat into the larger pad. Used pads also helped determine how much to grind from the caliper and spindle. ONLY ONE CALIPER NEEDS GRINDING FOR THE HOSE FITTING CLEARANCE- NOT BOTH. Unfortunately I assumed both needed grinding so one could rotate if bumped. Screw the instructions! Use common sense and measure before cutting! I twisted the fitting counter-clockwise before hammering it tight. That way any rotation would only tighten the fitting more.

Still contemplating a 4.5" hub swap so decent 15" wheels can be obtained. Problem being the calipers are so close to the stock wheel that aftermarket wheels may rub. I might just get some 16's and forget about lightweight wheels.
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post #33 of 130 (permalink) Old 09-10-2007, 08:44 AM
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Here is another update on the Mustang pbr's. I just bought a set for my '95 Mustang. The ones I bought for the tbird had phenolic pistons with a metal coating. This new set has solid stainless STEEL pistons and a shorter banjo bolt with a thinner brake hose fitting. This banjo bolt might not work with the tbird brake hose. I'm not sure what year or model Mustang these came from.

Phenolic pistons SUCK! They absorb moisture and swell eventually, causing the brakes to drag. Make sure you have the aluminum pistons.

Last edited by icantdrive55; 09-10-2007 at 07:16 PM. Reason: i mistakenly said the pistons were aluminum
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post #34 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 12:50 PM
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It seems like only half of my my driver's side rotor is getting pad contact on the outside. This started happening after I removed, cleaned, and relubed the slides. I did spray the calipers with brake parts cleaner when I went to do the slides since it was so dusty from when it was sticking. Whats' going on?



Before I relubed the slides, pad contact was even on the outside. The other side of this rotor is still getting even contact with the inner pad, from what I can see. Maybe there is dirt around the pistons now, causing them to not come out straight? Any ideas are appreciated.

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Last edited by Mgino96tbird46; 08-02-2011 at 12:58 PM.
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post #35 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 01:16 PM
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Ummm.. sorry, looking at that pic, especially the definition between contact and rusty area, I have to say that's impossible.

Whether for it to happen ...or that you cant easily see why.. impossible, nonetheless.

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post #36 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 01:32 PM
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Ummm.. sorry, looking at that pic, especially the definition between contact and rusty area, I have to say that's impossible.

Whether for it to happen ...or that you cant easily see why.. impossible, nonetheless.
That's what I was thinking at first, but apparently, it's happening. It started right after me cleaning and lubricating the slide pins. It has me stumped. I'm going to disassemble everything, clean, and put it back together and see if that somehow makes a difference. I'm looking at cause and effect here and nothing is making sense.

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post #37 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-16-2011, 07:37 PM
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Well, anyone else have any ideas as to what is happening with my Left Front brake? Pics two posts above are what's happening. It only started happening after cleaning and lubricating the caliper slides.

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1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

1998 Mustang GT premium. Auto, stock, and slow. Daily beater.
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post #38 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-16-2011, 08:52 PM
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Did you reverse the inner and outer pad? There are little dimples that need to sit right of they won't be even. You can also crack the pistons getting them reversed.



They will drag when you try to spin the wheel after you pump them up.

Ask me how I know.

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Last edited by Dusty; 08-16-2011 at 09:14 PM.
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post #39 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-17-2011, 01:19 AM
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I may have when I initially installed the pads, I didn't know there was an inner and outer pad. Oops. I was getting really heavy brake dust on that one wheel. Right now, I have the pad with the flat back on the piston side of the caliper. That would make sense as to why the bottom of that one pad was worn more than the top and the other pad. I guess I'm lucky since my pistons didn't crack. I guess I ruined a set of pads.

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post #40 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-17-2011, 08:08 AM
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I just looked at the pads I took off. I didn't correctly install mine either, one side I had the pins against the pistons, one side I had the pins outboard.

Both sides wore evenly. SLIGHTLY more worn was the one with the pins against the piston, but it was even wear from top to bottom, it was the one that wore down to metal first (on the leading edge), but the others were within .1mm of the same wear, just not quite to the metal.

I will have to dig in and take a look at the pads I put on it.

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post #41 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-17-2011, 10:34 AM
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I'm thinking when I re installed the pads, I put them in the right way, but because half of the "outer" pad was significantly worn than the rest of the pad, only half of the pad is getting positive contact with the rotor. I ordered a new set of pads this morning. Hopefully since I have not put many miles on with the pads installed wrong, my rotors will accept the new pads with no issues.

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post #42 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-17-2011, 08:38 PM
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Kind of a dumb design if you ask me. The 2 pins on the outer pad don't do anything and the center pin on the inner pad hits the center part of the outer bracket if installed backwards causing the pad to not sit flush. Other than that they are interchangeable.

I pulled mine off to change the inner tie rod ends and thought I placed one inside the wheel under the car and the other outside. Some how they got changed up and were reversed on one side when I put them back on. I wasn't paying attention other than that. I drove it thinking the would free up since I pumped them up to bleed them and cracked a piston. These pistons are very hard to find and after I got a rebuilt caliper I saw them somewhere.

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post #43 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 12:50 AM
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Yup! That's all it was. I installed the new set of pads today and the rotors are wearing evenly now. For future reference, the pads with the metal pegs go on the outside, not on the inside where the pistons are.

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post #44 of 130 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 11:38 PM
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Wow this is a great thread. I thought i was done with my Cobra brake install and I see I need to go do a little grinding on my caliper to so I don't have interference. I am glad the pics are still up after all this time. They were very helpful.
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post #45 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 10:18 PM
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Okay, so now when braking, after the brakes have warmed up, the car pulls to the right. Both calipers are thoroughly bled. I have to steer slightly to keep from veering off the the right. What's up now?

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post #46 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 06:15 PM
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I had this problem and it ended up being my strut rod bushings, i believe.
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post #47 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 09:54 PM
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I was possibly thinking it may be because of my right ball joint being worn. I'm having new lower control arms installed when I have the shocks and springs installed too.

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post #48 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 03:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgino96tbird46 View Post
I'm having new lower control arms installed when I have the shocks and springs installed too.
This would be the best time to change those bushings.

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post #49 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 10:39 PM
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This would be the best time to change those bushings.

Joe
"Those bushings" meaning strut rod bushings? If so, who makes the best strut rod bushings that I can readily buy?

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1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

1998 Mustang GT premium. Auto, stock, and slow. Daily beater.
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post #50 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 10:40 PM
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Ford.

See the strut rod thread, a sticky in the "Suspension" subforum.

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post #51 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 10:45 PM
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Ford.

See the strut rod thread, a sticky in the "Suspension" subforum.

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Are they still available through Ford though?

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1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

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post #52 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 11:27 PM
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The bushings? As of a month ago, yes.

The FERRULES or the kits? No.

Now, DLF makes a stainless replacement ferrule if yours aren't in good enough shape. Or I can grab some from our local boneyards - amazing how good a shape they're in down here in the South

DLF's are the better choice, though.

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post #53 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 11:39 PM
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The bushings? As of a month ago, yes.

The FERRULES or the kits? No.

Now, DLF makes a stainless replacement ferrule if yours aren't in good enough shape. Or I can grab some from our local boneyards - amazing how good a shape they're in down here in the South

DLF's are the better choice, though.

RwP
Hopefully mine are still decent. My car has always been here in the south...somewhat, if you can call where I live "the south". I'm blowing through some dough for this whole suspension revamp. I have shocks coming here on Halloween. I have a set of SC springs sitting in my living room at the moment. LCA's waiting in boxes. A brace here, a brace there, etc. Should be awesome when it's all done.

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1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

1998 Mustang GT premium. Auto, stock, and slow. Daily beater.
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post #54 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 09:30 AM
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Yah, I know that during the unCivil War, you were considered "Southern". From Louisiana, you're all look like a bunch of Northerners with your snow and your salt

(It's the salt that makes the difference, I think.)

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post #55 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 09:56 AM
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They lay a salt brine and/ or sand on the roads here, but it rarely snows here since I'm so close to the coast. I called up my local Ford dealership. The kit that comes with the ferrules is obsolete, but they can get it for me from a dealership out of state. The bushings, I can still get. The parts lady liked that I had all the part numbers, ready to go. That, in it self, must be a rare occurrence. lol

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1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

1998 Mustang GT premium. Auto, stock, and slow. Daily beater.
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post #56 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 11:02 AM
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Get the kit, but SAVE YOUR OLD FERRULES!

If you have the funds, I'd order a spare set of bushings, and pack them away for when you need them later (say, 20 years or so.)

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post #57 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 11:36 AM
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Get the kit, but SAVE YOUR OLD FERRULES!

If you have the funds, I'd order a spare set of bushings, and pack them away for when you need them later (say, 20 years or so.)

RwP
I'm considering that. The bushings are not really all that expensive. I just wish I could buy two sets of everything else on the car.

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1996 Thunderbird LX. Gone, but not forgotten Oct 1995-March 24 2016

1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

1998 Mustang GT premium. Auto, stock, and slow. Daily beater.
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post #58 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 11:54 AM
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*nods* Now's not a bad time to do that if possible.

Part discontinuance is going to keep getting more and more common - witness the factory LCA bushings for a Mark VIII now!

RwP
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post #59 of 130 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 03:21 PM
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Well, I got the bushings today. Didn't get the "kit" though. Was too expensive for me to take right now. I think I'll just get the ferrules from DLF if mine need to be replaced. I'm hoping my current ferrules are just fine.

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1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

1998 Mustang GT premium. Auto, stock, and slow. Daily beater.
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post #60 of 130 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 06:52 AM
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About time this article was copied here. However it's 99-04 calipers/pads to get/look for, not just 99-01.

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