Mustang PBR Calipers to Thunderbird Conversion and problems - Page 3 - TCCoA Forums

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post #61 of 130 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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About time this article was copied here. However it's 99-04 calipers/pads to get/look for, not just 99-01.
I thought so, but this guy had 01, so I left it. It's been fixed!

A guy just bought a set of PBR brakes off me and had some questions - I had this article saved on my HD in Word, so I copied it here and just sent him a link.

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post #62 of 130 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 06:57 PM
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your awesome rick!!! thanks brotha

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post #63 of 130 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 07:25 PM
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I thought you needed to get mustang rotors redrilled to work with PBR's

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

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post #64 of 130 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 07:43 PM
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Nope, PBRs use the same diameter rotors.

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post #65 of 130 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 07:56 PM
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Will those work with my larger sport rotors? Ive been thinki ng about this alot latly

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post #66 of 130 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 07:57 PM
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No, only the 10.87" rotors. With the PBR brackets and pads, you can ditch the 11.6" rotors and get the smaller ones and pick up a bit of braking performance.

-Brandon
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post #67 of 130 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996Project-bird View Post
I thought you needed to get mustang rotors redrilled to work with PBR's
Cobra PBRs yes, GT/V6 PBRs no.

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post #68 of 130 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 04:32 PM
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Great write up, thanks for posting!

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post #69 of 130 (permalink) Old 03-17-2012, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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No, only the 10.87" rotors. With the PBR brackets and pads, you can ditch the 11.6" rotors and get the smaller ones and pick up a bit of braking performance.
Do you have numbers for this? Seems though I read about it awhile back, but I can't remember. I know you lose some braking because of the smaller diameter, but you pick up more because of the pressure area of two pistons...

I would like to put better brakes on the Mark, but I don't want to go to a smaller rotor, either.

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post #70 of 130 (permalink) Old 03-17-2012, 04:43 PM
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http://www.tccoa.com/articles/brakes/rotors.html



The numbers seem a little off, but until someone goes out there and does some testing, it's about all we have to go by.

-Brandon
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post #71 of 130 (permalink) Old 03-17-2012, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/brakes/rotors.html



The numbers seem a little off, but until someone goes out there and does some testing, it's about all we have to go by.
They look WAY off. You are going to tell me that an 11.6" single piston brake system has only 3% better braking power than the 10.8"? I find that hard to believe.....

If you put a 10.8" brake PAD against the 11.6" PAD, the larger pad is MUCH bigger than 3%!

Here is a pic of the larger brake pads that someone put on the Sport 'Bird (correct pads) with the smaller non-sport 10.8" rotor (incorrect rotor for application). Does that unworn area look like only 3% of the pad? More like 15% or thereabouts (I may go measure and compute it!) Ok, I computed it and it comes to about 16.4%


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post #72 of 130 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 03:42 AM
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by any chance what are the part number for the calipers and the brackets by any chance?
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post #73 of 130 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 07:30 AM
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by any chance what are the part number for the calipers and the brackets by any chance?
Depends on the vendor.

You can buy them from RockAuto by specifying a 2004 Mustang 3.8L V6 .

They'll have bare, stuffed, etc.

Do be aware you may not have core to return to suit them. Plus, some of the loaded ones are $10 core, and it'll cost THAT much to ship back!

They'll also have several choices of brake pads. I'm using Wagner ThermoQuiet myself, and am happy with their braking performance.

Don't forget to get banjo bolts and washers! By using 2003/2004 you can reuse the Thunderbird ones, but still, new may not be a bad investment.

Also, consider ordering stainless flex hoses from, say, SpinningWheelsSC so that you can avoid ONE of the grinding steps.

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post #74 of 130 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 08:15 PM
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hmmm. I like the dual pbr non cobra. cheaper than the cobra it looks like and i wont have to get the new rotors redrilled.

hmmm. I just cannot see there only being a 6% difference between the cobra and normal. dual pistons and 2" larger disc have got to be better braking.

nm, other than the cost of machining the difference is 40 bucks... have to see about machining the rotors first though. (bet thats not cheap)

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post #75 of 130 (permalink) Old 01-13-2013, 03:28 AM
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o dp have a question the caliper braket will bolt to the location with the srock single piston caliper braket?
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post #76 of 130 (permalink) Old 01-13-2013, 11:12 AM
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Yes, the 94-04 Mustang caliper and bracket assembly has the same mounting hole dimensions as the 93-97 MN-12. In fact the 94-98 Mustang GT and V6 front calipers and brackets were 93 MN-12 part numbers.


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post #77 of 130 (permalink) Old 01-13-2013, 12:57 PM
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What's the advantage of the different piston materials?

Phenolic is typically a higher temperature material, but IDK about this application...

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post #78 of 130 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 12:01 AM
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Question... cant seem to find the answer searching but would crown vic or GM or town car front caliper work for this type of swap? Much more specifically would front brakes from a 2000 town car work?

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #79 of 130 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 12:16 AM
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Nope

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post #80 of 130 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 12:37 AM
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Nope
Son of a batch! Back to the yard! Looks like Ill be listing them on ebay LOL.

Spinning pies like wheels.

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post #81 of 130 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 08:28 AM
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Are they dual piston? I just got a 95 Marquis... (also have an extra 3 PBR spares )

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post #82 of 130 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 08:21 PM
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Are they dual piston? I just got a 95 Marquis... (also have an extra 3 PBR spares )
Yes they are... care to trade? They come with brackets and banjo bolts and nice looking boots. I found complete pbrs on ebay for $40 per side. PM me if you have a deal in mind. Mind you I need brackets and the banjo bolts.

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post #83 of 130 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 08:46 PM
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The dual caliper upgrade on the Panther is pretty close to the Cobra upgrade on the MN12/FN10. I worthy upgrade and fairly easy on a 95. I really am not sure why you have to replace the hubs. When I did the swap it was on a 92 and alot of things need swapped.
http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/suspens...gbrakeupgrade/

This is the 13 inch Cobra rotor with the 98-02 Panther rotor (cobra is bottom, stock Panther is top)


Cobra left, Panther right


Cobra left, Panther right


Calipers:

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post #84 of 130 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 08:16 AM
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So you're saying I won't need hubs, just calipers/hoses/rotors/16" wheels? Sorry to turn this into a panther discussion.

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post #85 of 130 (permalink) Old 05-26-2013, 06:19 PM
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OK I have been working on a brake swap. Ive managed to paint a set of mark8 rear calipers and a set of unknown year PBRs. They are hanging right now in the garage curing. Unfortunately I tore a tiny hole in a boot in the cleaning process. So my problem is the rears have a tiny hole in one of the boots...and upon close inspection so do the PBRs. So basically Im stuck with shiny clean brakes but with less than perfect boots. This is for my daily driver. Ive been looking at rock auto and they have rebuild kits which vary in price and brands. Can anyone offer any tips on how to best do this or at least which brands to avoid. Just buying rebuilt units isnt one of my choices so please dont respond with that. This doesnt seem beyond my skills it seems like its almost too easy so I dont want to miss out on some helpful tips.

Examples of boot kits offered

Cant find something better like raybestos pro grade but rockauto has brands like centric, carlson, dorman to repair the fronts

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...026&cc=1415089

Raybestos pro grade repair for the rears sourced from a mark8

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...444&cc=1430243

Also I these brakes were done on a trade with another member and I infact got 2 different kinds of banjo bolts. Both look the same when screwed in only 1 is longer by a little bit past the threads with a smooth rounded tip. How do I tell if I need the short or long bolts?

THere was a really wrecked gt stang at the bone yard where the front wheels were bent up really good and long story short couldnt pull the PBRs from it but got all the hardware like spindle to caliper bolts and the banjos and the bleeders. So is there a way to tell if the longer bolts arent going to work for me because thats what I have on hand?

Thanks for any help TCCoA. Ill post casting numbers from the calipers if that will help.

Spinning pies like wheels.

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Now with new ball joints...again
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post #86 of 130 (permalink) Old 05-26-2013, 06:48 PM
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I don't remember which ones I got to rebuild my PBRs, but I know it wasn't the Dorman kit. I had a little problem getting one piston out of one side, one piston came out easy but then there wasn't a way to build up pressure to get the other out.

As far as banjo bolts, I think there is one year that uses a different one, it is the difference in pitch of the threads. 2003.

I got 03 PBRs (and Cobra PBRs) and had to use different banjo bolts than what my car had.

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post #87 of 130 (permalink) Old 05-26-2013, 07:06 PM
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I don't remember which ones I got to rebuild my PBRs, but I know it wasn't the Dorman kit. I had a little problem getting one piston out of one side, one piston came out easy but then there wasn't a way to build up pressure to get the other out.

As far as banjo bolts, I think there is one year that uses a different one, it is the difference in pitch of the threads. 2003.

I got 03 PBRs (and Cobra PBRs) and had to use different banjo bolts than what my car had.
Ok I just threaded the banjos I have into the calipers and they went in just perfect. So they are good.

Im guessing you did the air compressor method of popping the pistons out. Couldnt you just hold one piston barely tight in the bore to get pressure to push the other one out?

BTW casting number is K247 - 047C

That 2 buck per piston Centric Kit for the fronts is looking mighty fine on rockauto

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post #88 of 130 (permalink) Old 05-28-2013, 10:51 AM
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When doing the pbr fronts do you still have to grind the tab for the block if you get the stainless lines from spinning wheels site ?

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post #89 of 130 (permalink) Old 05-28-2013, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
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Also I these brakes were done on a trade with another member and I infact got 2 different kinds of banjo bolts. Both look the same when screwed in only 1 is longer by a little bit past the threads with a smooth rounded tip. How do I tell if I need the short or long bolts?

THere was a really wrecked gt stang at the bone yard where the front wheels were bent up really good and long story short couldnt pull the PBRs from it but got all the hardware like spindle to caliper bolts and the banjos and the bleeders. So is there a way to tell if the longer bolts arent going to work for me because thats what I have on hand?

Thanks for any help TCCoA. Ill post casting numbers from the calipers if that will help.
Sorry for the trouble you're having. The banjos that were included were the ones OEM for those calipers. I can't say they were the same year as I went through and got a bunch of brakes at once, but I pulled each and put it's banjo back so they wouldn't get confused. I hope you get it worked out.

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post #90 of 130 (permalink) Old 05-28-2013, 04:13 PM
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When doing the pbr fronts do you still have to grind the tab for the block if you get the stainless lines from spinning wheels site ?
No, the lines from Spinning Wheels should work just fine. I ground mine because I didn't see a need to change my lines.

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