Parking brake adjustment - TCCoA Forums

 
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-31-2005, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
JNT
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Parking brake adjustment

Can someone explain how to adjust the parking brake. It wasn't obvious to me by looking at it and I couldn't find anything by searching. This is on my 97 with rear disc brakes.

Thanks,
Joe

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-31-2005, 11:34 PM
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in the manual it says something about the tensioner just behind the pumpkin with the spring stuff. step and release the parking brake pedal 2 or 3 time, then release it and then

"grasp tensioner around housing. using a tool similar(looks like j shape) like shown, hook the end into the rounded end of clip and housing. unlock clip by pulling downward with the tool and support tensioner, lock the clip by pushing up on bottom of clip. if clip does not slide up, move assembly slightly to align closest groove on adjustor rod to the clip."

quote from the factory helms manual.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
in the manual it says something about the tensioner just behind the pumpkin with the spring stuff. step and release the parking brake pedal 2 or 3 time, then release it and then

"grasp tensioner around housing. using a tool similar(looks like j shape) like shown, hook the end into the rounded end of clip and housing. unlock clip by pulling downward with the tool and support tensioner, lock the clip by pushing up on bottom of clip. if clip does not slide up, move assembly slightly to align closest groove on adjustor rod to the clip."

quote from the factory helms manual.
Sorry to bring back this thread but this makes no sense---can anyone explain this in plain english?

Thanks,


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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 12:17 PM
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Hello

I live in Sweden so my English is perhaps not the best, but hopfully you probably will understand. Anyway this is how to do it. I have to do it each year in order to fulfil the Swedish car control. I have a 94 with disc. There is a scruw in the brake piston. That scruw is for the machanical brake, the parking brake, and then you have the hydraulic, which is for the normal brake. You will not see the scruw, because it is inside the caliper and attached to the arm via a small rod that twist.

Lift up the rear of the car and take of the rear wheel. Not necessary, but it makes it much more easy. Make sure you have some support under the car so it does not fall over you.

Push and release the Parking brake pedal. Go back to each rear brake caliper and take a big scruwdriver or something like that and push the arm that have the cable attached to it as much back as you can. It does not go that easy the first time. Go back and push and release the parking brake pedal again. Back to the rear wheels and push the arm of each caliper back. You have to do this a cupple of times. You will now notice that the arm goes better and better each time. When you have the car up make sure that all the wire goes as they should. Just behind the diff is the coupling from the cable that goes to the front and the cbles that goes to each wheel. When you have the caliper running as they should then you adjust the length of the cable. It is a clip that hold the wire connection. Push it down adjust and pull it back.

Try to make sure that the parking brake pedal goes as it should and have enough of travel distance etc. Hard to describe, but you can feel it when you sit in the driver place.

The reason of why you have to do it several times is that the scruw will sometimes not adjust as it should and the arm can have some rust so it does not go that easy. You really have to push the arm back hard the first times. There is some oil is spray cans that help loosen rust. Spray on the arm while you do this. It is in more or less all gas stations etc. do not cost much. Use it and use it several times on the arm when you adjust the parking brake. You will see what I have dscribed when you stand att the rear brake. It is very easy to do it.

If you have someone in the car while you push the arm at the brake caliper this should not take tonger than approx 20 - 30 min from when you start to lift up the car until it is back on its wheels again.

Good Luck

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berth View Post
. Just behind the diff is the coupling from the cable that goes to the front and the cbles that goes to each wheel. When you have the caliper running as they should then you adjust the length of the cable. It is a clip that hold the wire connection. Push it down adjust and pull it back.
Hi and thanks for the reply,

The "Push down adust and pull it back is what I am stuck on. Do you push down to the ground? If I do that it makes the cable even have more slack. Can you be more specific. This could not be that difficult but it appears to be.


Anyone else car to chime in? We all have parking brakes and in some states like mine---it needs to work to pass the yearly inspection?--Any help would be appreciated?


Thanks,

Chapman
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 01:37 PM
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post

Great Photo--thanks-! So you pull down on that clip and then the slack automatically gets taken up?
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 01:44 PM
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Yep. The spring tension will pull the cable with the grooved rod taught, then just push the clip back up. The clip will now hold in a different groove which will be the new adjusted position.

-Matt
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Yep. The spring tension will pull the cable with the grooved rod taught, then just push the clip back up. The clip will now hold in a different groove which will be the new adjusted position.
Thanks XR7--I am going to go out and give it a try now--let you know how I make out.


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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Yep. The spring tension will pull the cable with the grooved rod taught, then just push the clip back up. The clip will now hold in a different groove which will be the new adjusted position.
XR7---

Worked like a charm and took all but 5 minutes---I greatly appreciate your time and effort.

Thanks,

Chapman
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 04:42 PM
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Lol, I keep trying this and yet nothing moves! It's about time I sprayed it with PB Blaster!

-Randy-
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 05:26 PM
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Lol, I keep trying this and yet nothing moves! It's about time I sprayed it with PB Blaster!
Are you pulling the clip down low enough so some of the spring coil loads back? Then you put the clip up so it clips in at a different length?
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-26-2013, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
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Are you pulling the clip down low enough so some of the spring coil loads back? Then you put the clip up so it clips in at a different length?
I guess that's what is supposed to happen but nothing happens when I pull my clip all the way down. I've mangled my clip trying to spread it open the last time I tried to force the rod through. Maybe after the spray soaks in everything will release or I'll push on the other end by the calipers.

-Randy-
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 12:39 PM
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Bump.

Hate bumping an old thread, but didn't want to start a new one.

I'm trying to tighten the parking brake cable on my 93 MK8, the clip pulls down, but it won't move over the notches at all. The rear calipers are free, and the cables aren't rusty. Am I doing something wrong here?

The parking brake will hold the car in drive, but won't hold a steep hill.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 07:42 AM
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I have the same issue with my 1992 Tbird.

Rear drums wont have enough stopping power with parking brake.
I checked also every component assosiated with the parking brake. Cables do not bind. Foot lever is ok. Rear drum brake shoes link is not binding.

If I do the process what this thread is saying and release the U-clip, pump the foot lever couple of times and re-set the U-clip back to locked position, the foot lever is so tight, that I cannot get it to lock.

I do know the rear drum brake shoes are worn. Are they too worn in this case. Almost to the rivets. Maybe a 1-2mm brake matter surface left. I have ordered a new set of rear brake shoes.

Thanks!

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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 04:43 PM
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This adjustment merely removes any slack in the cable. If the cable is already taut, you won't net any increased holding capability.

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