Thinking about buying 91 sc - Page 2 - TCCoA Forums

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post #31 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-17-2016, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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Here is the bottom of the car.
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post #32 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-18-2016, 02:36 AM Thread Starter
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I found what looks like a small leak coming from that white cap thing.
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post #33 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-18-2016, 03:14 PM
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congrats on the new car Kevin.

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post #34 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-18-2016, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Gunn, your new look on your car is awesome.I almost passed smog if this pcv hose was connected. The smog shop workers couldn't find it.

The PVC starts from the drivers side valve cover the plugs into a metal pipe across the engine then leads to a hose that's disconnected. Hopefully I can find where it goes so I can get my certificate. Becides that the car seemed to good with everything else.
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post #35 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-18-2016, 05:43 PM
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PCV has a metal tube that connects behind the throttle body .. that may be the line that goes to the EVAP metal line near the air filter, check for that metal tube behind the TB and you should be able to plug that line in.
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post #36 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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I found a broken line on the fire wall behind the engine. It's the same size as the vacuum line.
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post #37 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
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I looked around the air filter below the head light and it plugged into some plastic canister thing. The line ran through the fender and I think it came back around and was already plugged into something else.


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post #38 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 09:13 AM
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Around the headlight should be the EVAP system components.

Al

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post #39 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 02:33 PM
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The vacuum and PCV routing should be shown on the sticker under the hood. There are some variations in the later years, but I think this should match what you have:



From Heater and vaccum hose help..

By the way - nice car! It looks very clean. I would say you made a good buy. Rust can lurk inside the rockers under the ground effects ... I would recommend an internal rust protectant spray if you plan on keeping it a while.

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post #40 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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I think the smog workers were wrong the hose starts from there, I don't think that's the pvc valve.

I think that is the PVC
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post #41 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 04:49 PM
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No, the smog workers were right. The first pic is the PCV vent, and the other end of that should go to your intake tube before the throttle body. The 2nd pic is your supercharger bypass valve actuator, and that is hooked up properly. The actual PCV valve is in the passenger side valve cover toward the rear, and there should be a line from that going to the back of the return plenum.

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post #42 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 05:17 PM
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PVC .. Poly Vinyl Chloride. LOL

Now that I have a little more time to look at the pictures ..

PCV is hooked up correctly.

The PCV line that comes off the Drivers side valve cover goes to your Intake Tube like Mikey said. Normally its a hard plastic line that runs under the SC snout .. it can get brittle and break, so if theres a hose on that, it goes to your Intake tube, should have an Elbow fitting on it.

Broken line on the firewall, ... no thats the condensate drain for your HVAC.

Coolant leak, unless it looks like it was running down from under the high point vent, that looks more like a thermostat housing / gasket leak. I mean, unless you see wet coolant there, its an active leak, if its just dry and corroded looking, it hasnt leaked lately. Hard to tell from the picture.
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post #43 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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I hope there will be a way around this and pass smog, I don't have the stock intake tube. If the driver side isn't the real pvc can I explain that to them?
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post #44 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 08:55 AM
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The drivers side is not the PCV valve, but it is part of the PCV system, and also if that is not connected back to the intake tube, then you have unmetered air entering the engine. If there is no port for it on the intake tube, you will have to make one. Go to Home Depot to the plumbing section and find a fitting that is threaded on one side and has a barbed end that is the right diameter on the other side, and drill a hole in your fancy K&N intake tube, and connect it properly.

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post #45 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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I failed the visual test today. They said it was modified.
I a little worried the car might just recently blew a head gasket. It runs a little above half way on the temp gauge and I think it used to be 1/4 on the gauge. It has a aluminum radiator and the reservoir looked low it was at full cold. The reservoir looked kinda dirty.
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post #46 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 09:07 PM
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The stock air box (and maybe the MAF) should be the same on a non-SC Thunderbird or Cougar. (May be easier to find.) But the intake tube is different, because of the different angle of the throttle body. Maybe the shop would let you pass with the K&N tube if you had the rest of it stock. Can you ask them?

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post #47 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-22-2016, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S_Mazza View Post
The stock air box (and maybe the MAF) should be the same on a non-SC Thunderbird or Cougar. (May be easier to find.) But the intake tube is different, because of the different angle of the throttle body. Maybe the shop would let you pass with the K&N tube if you had the rest of it stock. Can you ask them?
It wont pass because its not a factory intake. Anything after the MAF can not be tampered with, unless you have a CARB exemption number, which doesnt exist because nobody makes a smog legal intake tube for the SC or any MN12 for that matter, including K&N - which this is not.
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post #48 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-23-2016, 04:25 PM
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It wont pass because its not a factory intake. Anything after the MAF can not be tampered with, unless you have a CARB exemption number, which doesnt exist because nobody makes a smog legal intake tube for the SC or any MN12 for that matter, including K&N - which this is not.
Technically, yes. Though it seems a little absurd that the shop would run the car through a sniffer, verify that emissions are in spec, and then fail him for substituting one tube for another. If your plastic PCV breather tube snaps, you can't go buy one at the dealer. You buy a functional replacement generic item at AutoZone and you move on. This is a bigger tube, but the situation is not much different in reality.

To me, the bigger issue was the lack of stock airbox and change in MAF position. So I was suggesting that he ask them if he goes back to stock airbox, would they pass it? Thinking, it might be easier to find an airbox locally than the full SC intake system.

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post #49 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-23-2016, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by S_Mazza View Post
Technically, yes. Though it seems a little absurd that the shop would run the car through a sniffer, verify that emissions are in spec, and then fail him for substituting one tube for another. If your plastic PCV breather tube snaps, you can't go buy one at the dealer. You buy a functional replacement generic item at AutoZone and you move on. This is a bigger tube, but the situation is not much different in reality.

To me, the bigger issue was the lack of stock airbox and change in MAF position. So I was suggesting that he ask them if he goes back to stock airbox, would they pass it? Thinking, it might be easier to find an airbox locally than the full SC intake system.
I thought the same thing, why the shop would run the test before the visual inspection. It wasnt that the intake tube was switched, it just had been modified by adding the port for the PCV hose. The hose was not replaced, and it would not be an issue to replace the plastic hard line from the PCV to the intake with a vacuum hose - the issue is that the intake tube itself is not factory - true that it is not much different, but thats the thing about California Smog emissions testing - it will not pass the visual inspection even though technically it does absolutely nothing for the performance of the engine. You dont need a stock air box because its before the MAF - there is nothing wrong with running a cone filter, you need the intake tube to pass. They should not pass it, I would not pass it.
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post #50 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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So right now my 1992 Super Coupe is at Dan's house getting fixed up. But right now I'm still driving my 1989 base model T-bird, it has over 230,000 on the original engine and has lots of oil leaks. I'm not too good on working on engines, and I don't want to put more money into this car.

I was thinking about buying something kinda new in the $4,000-$7,000 range. What would you guys recommend that would be reliable, economical and looks nice? I was also thinking about selling my old T-Bird for around $1,500.
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post #51 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 07:26 PM
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03+ Panther platform, Crown Vic, Grand Marquis, Town Car.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90SC 5-speed, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, soon to be transplanted into...
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-70 Torino GT Fastback project car. Needs EFI and a manual trans, but I'm not sure what motor to go with yet.
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post #52 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Hmm, I need a small car. Those cars are bigger than a T-bird, im sure they are nice on the inside but I need something that can switch between lanes with ease.
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post #53 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 04:33 PM
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