Check out some of the quotes about this "product"
I recently bought one of these chips and I made the mistake of looking at the reviews after I bought it, I popped open the "module" and all that's in there is a half ass glue job and a piece of metal, no software at all.
1) It only looks like there are two wires coming out of this module in the picture. Logically speaking, the only way that a single signal could significantly affect the tune in any way that could be potentially positive (other examples would be to cut spark or cut the fuel pump -- neither of which would have the desired boost of more powah), would be to trick the MAF into underreporting the airflow going into the engine and therefore "leaning" out the engine. A resistor could do that by lowering the voltage the ECU reads from the MAF for a given airflow. Running more lean = more powah and better fuel economy but going Too lean = detonation. Not so good.
- This is much like how the MAF "re-calibration" tubes are supposed to adjust and compensate for bigger injectors. It might work for some (even maybe most) of the airflow curve but it's not going to be as exact as actually modifying the fuel/air tables in a "proper" tune.
- IIRC, except for the 3.8SC no tbird engine has a knock sensor that the ECU uses to retard ignition timing is knock is detected.. Therefore, running leaner than stock esp with a glued together chip is in no way a good idea with one of these engines since how would it know you are experiencing engine knock?
2) Realistically speaking ANY proper tune on a N/A engine will only get you 10% if the baseline ECU can still run the current setup (you WILL need a tune if you upgrade the injectors but if you do basic exhaust upgrades or even a mild cam/replacement heads as examples your stock ECU will be able to handle the new setup). You should automatically mistrust anyone who offers you more than that.
BOTTOM LINE/TLDR advice:
PLEASE buy this chip. Things have been quiet around here recently so we could all use a good laugh.
More Useful Advice: the best bang/buck for these cars performance wise are shorter rear gears. Used 3.73:1 gears can be had for $30-60 locally and while it can be a bit messy setting up a rear diff is fairly straightforward work (although a press is needed).
You can also remove the diff, farm the rebuuild work out fairly inexpensively ($200 or less in labor), and then reinstall it yourself.