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post #31 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-08-2008, 11:22 PM
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I finally got five minutes to work on the car from work and stuff dammit Anyways, I unscrewed the off-white box. It is easier to use to turn off the car than fishing with a hook It *does* take some force to push it all the way to start the car. Although I have no idea how hard the pin is supposed to be, one could guess a plastic linkage will give up at some point under this loading. I didn't have time to remove the steering wheel yet, I'll have to fix the linkage pin anyway. But how can I resolve this hardness (for lack of a better word) issue in the off-white box? Several cables come into it and it seems to be permanently pinned to the other half (it looks scary to mess with). If I leave it like that though, the pin in the linkage might break\dislocate again. Is greasing the box an option :p (put the tube of WD40 in and empty the can)? Is there an easy way to take it off to replace? Thanks....
The resistance in the pin isn't abnormal at all. I have a brand new one that is just like that. It is removalable though. You can see that where all the wires enter the ignition switch there is a small bolt right in the middle. Unscrew it and the connector separates.

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post #32 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 12:12 AM
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a remote start will help for the time being

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post #33 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OllyGucci View Post
I finally got five minutes to work on the car from work and stuff dammit Anyways, I unscrewed the off-white box. It is easier to use to turn off the car than fishing with a hook It *does* take some force to push it all the way to start the car. Although I have no idea how hard the pin is supposed to be, one could guess a plastic linkage will give up at some point under this loading. I didn't have time to remove the steering wheel yet, I'll have to fix the linkage pin anyway. But how can I resolve this hardness (for lack of a better word) issue in the off-white box? Several cables come into it and it seems to be permanently pinned to the other half (it looks scary to mess with). If I leave it like that though, the pin in the linkage might break\dislocate again. Is greasing the box an option :p (put the tube of WD40 in and empty the can)? Is there an easy way to take it off to replace? Thanks....
The one that was on my car was ALOT harder to move than the one that came with the junkyard column. I don't know if I still have it, but I didn't feel right about putting it back in the car, didn't want to risk it. I don't know if there is any way to loosen it up.

Drive it like you stole it!
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post #34 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 08:20 PM
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====== finished =======

Finally. I did it alone but an additional pair of hands will help. If you release the steering wheel beforehand, it doesn't spring out when the star bolts are removed. The most painful part was to seat the pin. It is snug fit to one of the linkages, and the steering wheel doesn't move much to give a clear access to the linkage. And the pin falls down and ends up in crazy places. It was one of those "Dear Lord help me!" moments. Anyways, I was able to do it; closed the panels; scratched my hand on the burrs of the panels in the process. Reconnecting\plugging the airbag was stressful (I had removed it to improve access; didn't help much). All was finished, I collected my tools, went to the front of the car to connect the battery. When the cable touched (-) briefly, car honked *Great!* (time 8:30 pm). I kept the battery disconnected, unscrewed the air bag w\o unplugging it. I connected the battery: no honking, great! I started to bolt the airbag again. I tightened the bolt until it started honking, then unscrewed the bolt half a turn. Now I hope, it doesn't start honking at 3:00 am or something. I saved 250$ (my mechanics quote), had some fun, but it was also kinda stressful. Overall it was worth it. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread....
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post #35 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-10-2008, 03:08 AM
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ya but just for fun, pull off the middle wire on your distributer while shes runnin. then you can call me Bin Der Dun Dat.
He doesn't have a distributor.

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post #36 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-10-2008, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by OllyGucci View Post
Finally. I did it alone but an additional pair of hands will help. If you release the steering wheel beforehand, it doesn't spring out when the star bolts are removed. The most painful part was to seat the pin. It is snug fit to one of the linkages, and the steering wheel doesn't move much to give a clear access to the linkage. And the pin falls down and ends up in crazy places. It was one of those "Dear Lord help me!" moments. Anyways, I was able to do it; closed the panels; scratched my hand on the burrs of the panels in the process. Reconnecting\plugging the airbag was stressful (I had removed it to improve access; didn't help much). All was finished, I collected my tools, went to the front of the car to connect the battery. When the cable touched (-) briefly, car honked *Great!* (time 8:30 pm). I kept the battery disconnected, unscrewed the air bag w\o unplugging it. I connected the battery: no honking, great! I started to bolt the airbag again. I tightened the bolt until it started honking, then unscrewed the bolt half a turn. Now I hope, it doesn't start honking at 3:00 am or something. I saved 250$ (my mechanics quote), had some fun, but it was also kinda stressful. Overall it was worth it. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread....
Congratulations. Glad to hear you got it fixed. No need to remove the airbag. Yup, Just like I told DeputyMoniker in posts 16, 18, 23 and 29!

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See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.

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post #37 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-10-2008, 08:43 AM
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when it happend to mine i had to pull the ball + bat and the alt wich killed my fuse link

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post #38 of 66 (permalink) Old 06-18-2008, 02:52 PM
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Piggy backing on this thread.....

My car is having a similar issue, but instead of the car continueing to run, my starter is still kicking over, somewhere along the line the starter is not being told to stop turning. Weather the car is running, or not, the starter still spins. Any idea if using that off white box will work? I don't think it's the contacts in the starter that fused, i have a feeling its the ignition switch or something like it. Any help is appreciated.
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post #39 of 66 (permalink) Old 06-19-2008, 02:51 AM
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First check the starter connections to make sure nothing is wrong. Then I would suspect the ignition switch. You would be able to tell if you disconnect the ignition switch while the starter continues clicking. If it stops, it's the switch. If not, it's the starter.

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post #40 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-06-2008, 10:20 PM
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Hello

My car wouldn't turn off. Turned off ignition, Main power. Still running.

I had to pull the coil wire to get her to stop.

I don't have a fuel shut-off. No ignition switch. well at least not like yours.

Buddy said it was the Diodes in alt.

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post #41 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-09-2009, 10:58 AM
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I agree with "frankkjc" i am doing mine like that right and i guess i better just replace my steering column since that sounds more easier to do. but again i do need some decent weather first, tomorrow is suppose to be 65

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post #42 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-10-2009, 12:18 AM
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Same thing happened to me this afternoon. The car's electricals would not turn off, so the battery had to be disconnected and the fuel pump disconnected. I think I may have turned the key into "Accessory" too hard too many times. The panels around the column are all off and not broken. I can see the end of that "Actuator" thingy through the gap between the two section of the steering column and it looks like the end is broken off. I have one question. Is that actuator a Ford only part?
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post #43 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-23-2009, 02:43 PM
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this same thing just happened to me. i have a 95 cougar xr7 and i brought it to the shop they said everything inside the steering colon was smashed up and i had to get a new one it cost me about 800 cdn. i just plugged the intake to shut off the car.
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post #44 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-23-2009, 03:51 PM
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this same thing just happened to me. i have a 95 cougar XR7 and i brought it to the shop they said everything inside the steering colon was smashed up and i had to get a new one it cost me about 800 cdn. i just plugged the intake to shut off the car.
More than likely it's just that one piece of plastic. No need to replace the entire steering column. That's the shop looking to make a quick buck (cdn) on another unsuspecting customer.

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post #45 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-23-2009, 10:17 PM
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Yeah, I just got mine out of the shop a few days ago. It was the one plastic piece that was replaced. Bought the parts from the closest Ford dealer and had the shop do the repairs. My car was out for a work week, but either did not take very long or cut the price very low. The bill, even when converted to CDN is nowhere near that price. The price of upper and lower actuator pieces--I wanted to be sure, so I got both--included with the labor totalled less than $250 US.

Per previous advice, I took the ignition switch out before going to the shop and greased the slides as it took noticable effort to slide the switch through its positions. It was easier to move the switch afterwards, and I think that was probably half the reason the upper actuator broke in the first place.
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post #46 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 09:51 PM
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Any pics of the part that I need to replace? Mine broke during a right turn (clyde) (sorry for the Any which way but loose comment lol) And now it won't shut off. Key spins freely and if I could get a look at the part I need to replace, I'd be a happy camper.

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post #47 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 10:08 PM
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Read the first page... Trunk Monkey has pics in one of his posts.

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post #48 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 10:13 PM
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Read the first page... Trunk Monkey has pics in one of his posts.
He doesnt highlight anything. I dont know what Im looking for/at.

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post #49 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 10:59 PM
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The small pin between the two plastic rods shown in the first pic by the arrow is the part that TM is referring to. Apparently that pin falls out and the two rods no longer are connected.

-Brandon
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post #50 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 11:32 PM
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Alright. Thanks man.

Edit 1: Any way to Jimmy-rig it? Like with a piece of coat hanger or something? I have access to a 1997 steering column, but I'd like to get mine fixed before I go dropping any money into a 95 to 97 build lol. The cheaper the better..

Edit 2:Ok, got the panel under the steering wheel off, and I see the off white box, Now what? What do I have to do to get it jimmy rigged to work? It is held on by 2 Torx screws? I looked from the top and could NOT see either of the little white levers on the top of the steering column. I'll go back out there and figure it out the best I can.

Edit 3:OK, I unscrewed the white box and that's my temporary fix. What will I need to do step by step to fix that POS plastic piece. What other parts will interchange off of it?

Edit 4: I'm about to take it apart and look for myself. Fortunately I have found a way to shut it off manually, but I still need to get it fixed

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post #51 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 02:39 PM
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When I had this problem on a 94 Mark 8, I had to remove the steering column from the car to take it apart and fix the plastic slider - turns out the Pin just fell out and I was able to put it all back together.
I had picked up an extra pair of pins before taking it apart completely - turns out I did not need them but they are still available.
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post #52 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 02:46 PM
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First of all. Use the button and combine the last 4 posts into one and delete the other 3. There's no reason to chain-post like that.

Then find a small pin that will fit between the two plastic levers and replace it. (Assuming that the eyelets on the two sections are still intact). Like I said on page 1 of this thread I fashioned a coat hanger into a hook that I could use to pull the lower plastic rod back to turn the car off.

If the eyelets of either of the plastic rods are broken then you need to replace one or both of those rods. I recommend finding a shop or someone who knows their way around a steering column. If you're absolutely lost I recommend taking the car by Rob's Tire & Auto and letting Rob take care of that for you. He's not that far from Fayetteville.

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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post #53 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 02:53 PM
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Should I tell Rob that Trunk monkey sent me?

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post #54 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 03:00 PM
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Sure. Just let him know what you need and he can work out a time to help you get that fixed. There's a link to his site in my signature. Give him a call, he'll be happy to help you out.

Good Luck. I know how frustrating that can be. My car was like that for about a month before I could get it fixed.

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto.
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post #55 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 03:02 PM
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post #56 of 66 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 10:09 PM
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had a friend of mine come to me today with the same issues happened to him yesterday

94 bird v8

i got her apart and attempted to fix her, i actually fixed the pin problem but now the car won't start.

the lower arm has the travel but the top arm doesn't, its almost like the lock cylinder won't turn enough but yet its turning against its lock as it should.

any ideas? its almost like the top arm going to the lock cylinder isin't quite long enough.

whats odd is that it would start up before it just wouldn't turn back, now it turns back but it just won't go to the crank position it only goes as far the the ignition on position.
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post #57 of 66 (permalink) Old 01-18-2010, 01:55 PM
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for others reading this thread in the archives via the search function. here is a webpage with lots of pictures of a steering column from a 2003 ford taurus.

http://www.p71interceptor.com/steeri...ed/taurus/2003

the internal mechanical parts of this taurus steering column are very similar to a ford thunderbird steering column. however, to install this column into a thunderbird, you would need to swap the following support components:
-steering wheel
-airbag clockspring
-turn signal multifunction switch
-dashboard mounting bracket
-and for some years, the big shaft which connects the steering wheel to the base of the column is a slightly different length

the column shift vs center console issue is really easy to adapt. just unbolt the shift tube from the steering column and install the center console shift interlock cable in it's place.



and the culprits behind your problem







or possible this gear


Visit my website:

http://www.p71interceptor.com

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post #58 of 66 (permalink) Old 01-18-2010, 06:35 PM
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I'm trying to go from memory here, but I've done these on Ford's before. If you look at the third pick down in post #12, there is a little hole by that pink wire. You have to turn the key while pushing in that little pin, so you can pull the key tumbler out. Once that is out, you can see that little gear in that bottom pic above, it's held in with a little clip. That part pushes the plastic strip with the teeth.

I've done other Fords that have this funky metal piece that moves from that gear, but has a little square hole it rides down in the center and those break often. You just pull out the broken one and replace it (I believe I got the replacements from the HELP cards at Advanced). Now, I could never get the new piece in cause it's too long and I just cut the part that slides in shorter (it's so long cause it has a groove cut for the lock steering IIRC).

I don't know if any of this info was helpful, but I do remember it wasn't that bad to do.
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post #59 of 66 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 02:53 PM
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I apologize for reviving such an old thread, but I wanted to say thanks because this exact thing happened to me on Saturday night.

Old circumstances really; I was going to run an errand, and when I got in the car and turned my key, the power in my car completely died. I lost all interior lights, the car wouldn't turn over, nothing.

So I turned my key a couple times to the same effect. Then the darn ignition cylinder wouldn't return. Needless to say, I got started about 10 am the next day, took everything apart; steering wheel, etc. For the life of me though I could not find that pin. I did find a screw that fit nicely in there; shaved off the threads on one end and threaded the other side. Finally got the actuator arm fixed and put back together.

Basically if it wasn't for this site, I wouldn't have gotten this fixed because I couldn't find anything in my service manual. I still have my instrument panel off, but I will get that put back on hopefully tonight.

As for the power dying, that turned out to be because of a bad ground.

Anyhow, thank you to all who contributed to this thread!

Last edited by dlkreations; 01-25-2011 at 02:54 PM. Reason: Forgot to add something
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post #60 of 66 (permalink) Old 01-27-2011, 09:48 AM
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I apologize for reviving such an old thread, but I wanted to say thanks because this exact thing happened to me on Saturday night.

Old circumstances really; I was going to run an errand, and when I got in the car and turned my key, the power in my car completely died. I lost all interior lights, the car wouldn't turn over, nothing.

So I turned my key a couple times to the same effect. Then the darn ignition cylinder wouldn't return. Needless to say, I got started about 10 am the next day, took everything apart; steering wheel, etc. For the life of me though I could not find that pin. I did find a screw that fit nicely in there; shaved off the threads on one end and threaded the other side. Finally got the actuator arm fixed and put back together.

Basically if it wasn't for this site, I wouldn't have gotten this fixed because I couldn't find anything in my service manual. I still have my instrument panel off, but I will get that put back on hopefully tonight.

As for the power dying, that turned out to be because of a bad ground.

Anyhow, thank you to all who contributed to this thread!
Excellent! Congrats. For future reference, I had a Crown Vic at the shop week before last at the shop with the broken ignition problem (you could start the car, but could not turn it off). Since we've had this problem in the past, we've learned that it is actually easier to grab a steering column from a u-pull-it yard and replace the whole column rather than try to rebuild an existing one.

That is exactly what I did. It took less than a half hour for me to pull one out of the yard and maybe an hour to pull the bad one from the car at the shop, put the steering wheel, covers, and lock cylinder from the original to the replacement and put it back. Problem fixed, key works, everybody happy.

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