Converting the high pressure power steering line to -AN - Page 2 - TCCoA Forums

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post #31 of 90 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-27654-82540.aspx

I'm not above grinding either, the fittings aren't that expensive afterall.

-Matt
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post #32 of 90 (permalink) Old 10-28-2011, 04:56 PM
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The blue fittings sealed fine with the standard steering seal, which was teflon.

For that matter, so did the aerotech... which wasted the pump in the first place for me.

They were easy to install; I broke the pump with a 4" crescent wrench.

The blue ones were ~1/8" too long, from the marks on them, lol.

My system is working fine on new stuff, btw.

The rack was full of shavings from the pump...

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post #33 of 90 (permalink) Old 10-28-2011, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
The blue fittings sealed fine with the standard steering seal, which was teflon.

For that matter, so did the aerotech... which wasted the pump in the first place for me.

They were easy to install; I broke the pump with a 4" crescent wrench.

The blue ones were ~1/8" too long, from the marks on them, lol.

My system is working fine on new stuff, btw.

The rack was full of shavings from the pump...
Which blue ones are 1/8th too long ? the russel or the aerotech?

THe russels look like they cant take any trimming because you run into the threads right away.

Can I pick up one of these seals at any auto parts store? I certainly dont feel like paying 4 bucks shipping on something so tiny.

I have aerotech on the way should I just stock with that and use 2 oil pan washers?

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Now with new ball joints...again
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post #34 of 90 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 03:06 AM
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I would definitely go with the russel fittings.

Ok I'd like to add that if you have the oil gauge variable unit mod done to your car this mod becomes super tricky.

And the clearance is barely there. SO much so I had to cut the little wire stud on the end of the OPSU in half and then mod the wire harness to be as thin as possible. And then find a nut that is thin enough as well. I did all that today finding out this today made for a bad day as I was expecting this part for a couple days only to run into more set backs.

I got the pressure line to work and the variable unit to work but its really close.

Im not really trusting my power steering pulley installer. It just looked a little off when testing its parts. Namely that stud connecting the tool to the pump hub. Even with clearing up the room its still tight to work down there. This isnt exactly a noobs mod. The chance of leaking is good on a pressure line.

I tested the Russel fitting with 2 thin nylon washers and no contact was felt when spinning the pump hub.

One question I have is how much abuse can that power steering elbow take. Its got a lot of pull when you play with the braided line. I had to do a lot of moving around dealing with modding the sender unit. I dont think I ruined it but anyone ever ruined a ford elbow from too much abuse?

I cut the line at 11" thinking maybe if 10 was too short I could shorten it. 10" seems to be good with the non variable OPSU dont know about the modded one. The part that touches in the elbow terminal fitting so you have to swivel a little to clear it.

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post #35 of 90 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 06:09 PM
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I missed the reason why you're removing/installing the ps pump pulley. It doesn't need to be touched to install the fitting.

As I confirmed before, this fitting fixes the issue.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-670530/?rtype=10

I run that fitting with a teflon washer with zero issues.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Splattered View Post
One question I have is how much abuse can that power steering elbow take. Its got a lot of pull when you play with the braided line. I had to do a lot of moving around dealing with modding the sender unit. I dont think I ruined it but anyone ever ruined a ford elbow from too much abuse?
They aren't particularly hardy. I replaced mine while I had the engine out back in '07 for safe measure.

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post #36 of 90 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 01:06 AM
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The car is back together minus the bumper cover and minus an unrelated leak I caused. I stripped out one of the hydraulic lines for the trans coolers new high flow set up. Good thing is its all reachable to replace.

Rodcougar I couldn't get any spin on the fitting with the pulley fully seated it rubbed the pointed angles I dont know why yours maybe is smaller size to turn, maybe my pulley was on too much(more likely). I didn't have to even remove the pulley just maybe pull it off 1/4 of the way. But I saw some weeps coming from the pump and said piece of cake I knew the drill.

I went so far as to swap in a new autozone pump just to have something fresh as possible. Plus I could see the pump weeping from the EVO and from the res return hose which I didn't like. I got a little testy with the PS system because I hated how my PS had leaks all over at one point. I did a pump job on my car before, so I swapped in a fresh one under warranty and fixed every leak/weep possible. I have new res/return hoses/rack/both rack elbows.


Its all leak free just as you said use this fitting and use a teflon washer. 2 washers on my case since they were thinner than in this threads pics. I added a tiny bit of copper rtv in between them to be 100% no leaks and it works great in sealing. I even threaded on a teflon seal at both ends. Yeah its further than most would bother but like I said I wanted to be 100% I got the teflon seal from the ford dealer ship. I didnt pay anything.

My elbow survived the thrashing but its not original either. Those with original elbows should really be swapping in a fresh one before doing this mod.

I think this is pretty much all I have to add to this. So yes you can mod the oil gauge and still mod the PS pressure line without too much work. An alternative solution would be to put a brass elbow on the OPSU and move it out of the way.

I think this thread would be great if people started merging some PS system leak overhaul. Really would be great to show people the ridiculousness of changing those elbows.

Btw here are the tools that made this an easy job.



The adjustable is only for the blue fitting shown the little yamaha wrench is what gets everything else AN wise. My other 17 mil stuff wasnt big enough and this wrench fit just right its awesome. It got max throw working on the elbow off the rack.


Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again

Last edited by Splattered; 11-26-2011 at 01:47 AM.
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post #37 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-24-2011, 02:20 PM
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Just to verify before I buy everything:

Matt, you mentioned different hose routing for the 3.8 NA and SC, are all of the fittings the same for the 3.8 PS pump and rack?

-Kelly
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post #38 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-24-2011, 07:19 PM
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The routing is going to be different but the threads for the rack and pump are the same for both 3.8 and 4.6 cars

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post #39 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-24-2011, 07:54 PM
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Ok thanks, was just wondering since the 3.8 and 4.6 have way different pumps.

-Kelly
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post #40 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-25-2011, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueEyes View Post
Ok thanks, was just wondering since the 3.8 and 4.6 have way different pumps.
I think you need a sharper bend in the elbow to point straight down and under to the rack. Maybe a foot of line is needed.

Spinning pies like wheels.

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post #41 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-25-2011, 06:08 AM
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It looks like in Robs and Rods pictures they used a 45 degree bend it's just pointing back towards the firewall some.

-Kelly
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post #42 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-25-2011, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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I bought my 45* bend because of Rods and Robs setups. I didn't realize until I was mocking it all up on mine that the sway bar was going to be in the way with that path.

-Matt
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post #43 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 04:18 AM
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I bought my 45* bend because of Rods and Robs setups. I didn't realize until I was mocking it all up on mine that the sway bar was going to be in the way with that path.
He has an addco front bar btw. I looked at the pump and possible routing and it looks very similar.

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post #44 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 02:02 PM
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Yes I do have the ADDCO 1-1/4" front sway bar on there. Will be 45 degree be enough or does it need to come more straight down. Maybe a 33 degree elbow?

-Kelly
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post #45 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 02:43 PM
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My line clears the ADDCO 1.25" bar just fine using a 45* hose end at the pump.

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post #46 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splattered View Post
He has an addco front bar btw. I looked at the pump and possible routing and it looks very similar.
The Addco bars are derived off the SC bar layout. As I said the 45* is perfectly fine in both situations

-Matt
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post #47 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 07:33 PM
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The Addco bars are derived off the SC bar layout. As I said the 45* is perfectly fine in both situations
Have you closely looked at what the NA 6 pump routing looks like? Im just asking because its not exactly like the 4.6 set routing. Id hate for kelly to buy the wrong parts.

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post #48 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 01:57 AM
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Theyre pretty damn close, they both end up wrapping around to the passenger side and back to the drivers side, Another mod for the 3.8 cars I was thinking about would be to ditch the puny little cooler located in the fender, and replacing it with the 4.6L power steering cooler.The holes are already there for the 4.6 cooler to get mounted behind the front bumper. I did that when I did the motor swap

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post #49 of 90 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 02:19 AM
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Theyre pretty damn close, they both end up wrapping around to the passenger side and back to the drivers side, Another mod for the 3.8 cars I was thinking about would be to ditch the puny little cooler located in the fender, and replacing it with the 4.6L power steering cooler.The holes are already there for the 4.6 cooler to get mounted behind the front bumper. I did that when I did the motor swap
No kidding??? LOL I did that to his car already. The bad part was a shop broke blueyes' PS cooler and without telling him they tried to cover it up. So as a real fix I just got a v8 version and flipped it around.

Spinning pies like wheels.

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post #50 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-26-2012, 09:40 PM
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I'm doing this to my 1991 with the 5.0HO.

A few notes:

It takes more than 11" to reach, due to the high mount power steering pump.

If you're doing this, don't chop up the return hose - that's where the cooler is

Also, it looks like a 90* fitting on the pump for the high pressure side is better than the 45* due to the fit.

I'm running the hoses up against the shock tower in order to clear the exhaust headers/manifolds.

I'm also using one of those too-small transmission coolers for my PS cooler. It ought to be, if anything, too big

RwP
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post #51 of 90 (permalink) Old 09-01-2012, 10:18 AM
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Due to how the 5.0HO is laid out, it uses some slightly different parts.

After doing mine, I can say that you CAN use a pair of 90 degree fittings.

I used a 90 at the rack and a 45 at the pump - which fits, and works well, but a pair of 90s would be better.

I used one of these at the rack for a new elbow, one of these for the AN-6 adapter, and one of these at the pump. Two of the first would fit. I used a pair of these for the adapters. I used 24" of hose, but as the pics below show, something more like 16" would fit better (straight up and down).

I ran it in the middle of the A/C manifold so as to help keep it from shaking into the manifolds, but I may have been paranoid about that.

RwP

Pics below:

45* fitting:


90* fitting:


AN-6 adapter:


Hoses out of back of pump (from top):
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post #52 of 90 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 01:53 AM
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post #53 of 90 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 03:47 PM
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I appreciate all of the comments in this thread, they have helped to give me a clearer idea of what to do.

There was an old pump on my toolbox to test and make sure all will be well with the blue (Russel) fitting. I took some time to study how it fits into the pump. Close study of the pump shows two ports cut into the threaded area of approximately the same depth relative to the threads. One goes to the EVO Solenoid and the other apparently comes from the pump rotor and is the output going to our new hose. After doing some measurements I used a 7/8" socket to hold the fitting and ground off 0.130" from it. The edge of the socket served as a guide to make a square cut. I wouldn't remove much more of the threads, the cut I made has the fitting going in at a similar depth to the OEM fitting. A little clean up with a small file and some Brake Cleaner and it's good to go.
After installing the new fitting in the test pump and tightening it up I could inspect the installation through the EVO hole and see that the port(s) is/are not blocked.
Use a nylon or copper washer between the blue fitting and the pump. Don't use any kind of rubber "O" Ring unless you want the front of your engine washed off with Mercon V like mine was.

I had a great deal of trouble R&Ring the pulley. It's still not on all the way, and I'm still working out the new placement of the Oil Pressure Sender Unit.

Now it's all together and no P/S leaks. But I get to go back under and do it all again because the Oil Filter Adapter is leaking (sigh). Taking a few days off.

Last edited by 1955-86; 09-12-2012 at 04:30 PM. Reason: Updates.
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post #54 of 90 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 04:26 PM
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Note. When installing the Russel fitting at the steering pump elbow, be $PROFANITY sure that you get it more than finger tight.

And if you decide to use a built hose, on the 5.0HO - no, 14" is NOT long enough as long as you want an oil filter on the motor.

Color me "Feel Stupid"

RwP
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post #55 of 90 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 09:05 PM
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huh, i tried this a while back and it was awful. i had the same issues a lot are describing with the fitting bottoming out in the pump, making its squeal and burn the mercV brown in 30miles...

afterwords i couldn't get the m14's to seal worth a dang, and after fighting with it, and taking the line off the rack elbow more times then i could count trying to reseal the compression fittings, i just gave up and put the gates OEM style hose on and called it a day....

now that leaks at the pump a bit as well... leaving a decent amount of fluid on the driver side cat and down the bottom of the car.

i also ran into this...


love my oil guage mod, would recommend it to anyone. but this is just something to expect if you try and do both.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1955-86 View Post
Now it's all together and no P/S leaks. But I get to go back under and do it all again because the Oil Filter Adapter is leaking (sigh). Taking a few days off.
you can also see MY oil filter adapter gasket was leaking slightly their on the filter... fixed that a while back, after i got all this stuff done and the pump back in -_- so your are not alone where that is concerned

kind of making me want to try it again... i had the thought that maybe the fitting could be cut down a bit, it had this weird protuberance on it with an O-ring that i didn't remember seeing in the writeup...

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Last edited by nall_one; 11-23-2012 at 09:20 PM.
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post #56 of 90 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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The fitting with the O ring at the end is the wrong one. The correct one seals with a teflon O-ring at the collar like the OE line. I updated the article some time ago with the new part number. The original draft had the same style fitting you used (with the small O-ring at the end) and is what I originally used with similar leakage issues.

You might still need to cut down the threads a bit with the new adapters since our pumps have orifices in the center of the threads though.

I didn't realize the oil gauge mod sender would interfere like that. Looks like an easy fix though. Splice in a flat connector with a nut

-Matt
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post #57 of 90 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 10:00 PM
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I took out the plug on the bottom of the Oil Filter Adapter and used a short nipple and an elbow to move the sender completely out of the way. Also had to extend the wire.
It still leaks a drop of oil but I think that's the drain plug. The last time I looked the P/S hose was dry.
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post #58 of 90 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 10:04 PM
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I used a 90 degree elbow and some solder andheat shrink to extend the wire form the oil pressure sender. I too did the variable pressure sender mod and the high pressure line mod so I know what IM talking about making clearances. Putting on a flat connector actually isnt going to cut it LOL, you need like 1 mm more room than that. I know cause I tried. Im actually getting ready to swap in a used OEM power steering pump because the autozone units just make too much damn noise and Im sure my EVO isnt working properly. Im also adding bigger power steering cooler and bending up hardline for it. So Ill definitely be taking pictures and giving a details tour on that.

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #59 of 90 (permalink) Old 06-29-2014, 10:11 PM
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For those of us that have a leaky pump elbow fitting, but don't want to drop the rack to install the other end of this mod:

How about hacksawing the line before the power steering pump elbow and somehow adapting the line to connect to only the pump side of this mod?

I don't know much about adapting high pressure lines to work without leaking. Could someone more knowledgeable show how this could be done?

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post #60 of 90 (permalink) Old 08-06-2014, 02:13 AM Thread Starter
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I added this to the main article but figured I'd post it here as well.

A bit of tweaking is necessary for the Russell Performance 670530 - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings. There's an EVO(presumably) related orifice drilled through the center of the threads in the power steering pump that these fittings will obstruct. The solution to this is to grind approximately 3/16" off the metric end of the fitting to prevent blockage.




Here's the factory fitting vs the Russel. You can see how much further the threads extend on the adapter:



I used tape as a marker for the grinder - go slowly, since the fitting is aluminum the grinder will cut through it like butter:



Post grinding, pull the tape off and clean it up(depending on the tape you used the heat from the grinder may have left tape residue)



Use 400 grit sandpaper on the edges to make sure there's no loose material and ensure it will thread into the pump without cross threading.



Note* I installed the dorman seal prior to grinding, I didn't want to risk it being damaged by slipping it over a rougher ground surface. If you do this be sure you mask the WHOLE fitting before grinding to prevent it getting contaminated by bits of aluminum.


-Matt
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