Just wondered how many people have ever had an ECU fail? - TCCoA Forums

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post #1 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Just wondered how many people have ever had an ECU fail?

Just wondered...?

"...put me on a highway, show me a sign, and take it to the limit one more time"

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post #2 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 10:19 AM
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On a 94 4.6? A lot! I have had 2 of them fail. The ECM likes to short out and hang one of the injectors open. A 95 ECU is a direct bolt-in swap and will solve the problem.

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-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
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post #3 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Yes I'd heard the 94's were prone to that. My ecu went a few weeks ago, and in the course of trying to sort it out I was told that the 95 ecu is not a direct swap into the 94 as the gearbox mapping is different. I think there's a Ford TSB out about it. If you fit a 95 ecu to a 94 I think it will burn out the overdrive band in the gearbox.

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post #4 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy625UK View Post
Yes I'd heard the 94's were prone to that. My ecu went a few weeks ago, and in the course of trying to sort it out I was told that the 95 ecu is not a direct swap into the 94 as the gearbox mapping is different. I think there's a Ford TSB out about it. If you fit a 95 ecu to a 94 I think it will burn out the overdrive band in the gearbox.
Yup. That would be me that did that and found the TSB later. Live and learn. I noticed it didn't shift on the highway right and downshifting at 60 mph was screwed up. It's like something is holding the car back, then finally the car takes off. Found out later the overdrive band is what was holding the car back burning up! Ford changed the valve body control programming in the ECU from 94 to 95. Ford WILL (or at least the TSB said they would) flash a 94 to 95 or visa-versa to correct the problem for a price!

FWIW, I've had two 1995 ECUs fail, that 1994 that you got Andy, was my third and that's how I learned the lesson that I did. I'm now on my 4th ECU in my car. I guess 20+ years is good to get out of those!

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post #5 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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I assume it takes a gearbox rebuild to sort that out? I think I'm going to either investigaste options of getting my old ecu repaired, or track down another to keep as a spare. And thanks again for sending yours over. Its SO good to have my car back :-)

"...put me on a highway, show me a sign, and take it to the limit one more time"

The Eagles
1975

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post #6 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy625UK View Post
I assume it takes a gearbox rebuild to sort that out? I think I'm going to either investigaste options of getting my old ecu repaired, or track down another to keep as a spare. And thanks again for sending yours over. Its SO good to have my car back :-)
You're welcome. Probably cost you more to rebuild it (from what I've seen) then replace it with another used.

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post #7 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, I've had one guy over here thats said that too. There are a few companies over here that can do it, but although they say prices "from" £99 I've been told that they are normally more like £200-£300.

How difficult are they to get at to change? I disconnected mine when I changed my heater core (but the dash was half out at the time). I assume you have to take the glove box out, or can you do it by just the kick panel?

"...put me on a highway, show me a sign, and take it to the limit one more time"

The Eagles
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post #8 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 11:16 AM
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You can put a 95 ECM into a 94 car with no problems. The trans programming is slightly different in the 95 ECM, but it is a very minor change, and it will not cause any problems with the transmission. Actually, the trans will shift better with the 95 ECM. Also, the only permanent fix for the injector hanging open problem is to install a 95 ECM. A replacement 94 ECM will work fine, until it hangs an injector open again. If I were you, I would keep an eye out for an A5W0 ecm, and if nothing else just hang onto it until it is needed.

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-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
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post #9 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy625UK View Post
Yes, I've had one guy over here thats said that too. There are a few companies over here that can do it, but although they say prices "from" £99 I've been told that they are normally more like £200-£300.

How difficult are they to get at to change? I disconnected mine when I changed my heater core (but the dash was half out at the time). I assume you have to take the glove box out, or can you do it by just the kick panel?
It's easy. There is a little plastic plug that holds that passenger side kick panel on, pull that off and pull off the plastic kick panel (it hooks under the rocker panel cover which you just pull off and under the plastic piece that goes up by the windshield with a little plastic clip). Then there is another insulated piece that is held on with a little plastic plug.

After you get the plastic stuff off, there is one 10mm bolt that holds that harness on the ECU, and one 6 or 7mm bolt that holds a little plastic corner piece that holds the ECU in place.

After you get those two bolts, it literally pulls out unto the floorboard. Don't have to remove the glove compartment although I opened it to see what I was doing.

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post #10 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
You can put a 95 ECM into a 94 car with no problems. The trans programming is slightly different in the 95 ECM, but it is a very minor change, and it will not cause any problems with the transmission. Actually, the trans will shift better with the 95 ECM. Also, the only permanent fix for the injector hanging open problem is to install a 95 ECM. A replacement 94 ECM will work fine, until it hangs an injector open again. If I were you, I would keep an eye out for an A5W0 ecm, and if nothing else just hang onto it until it is needed.
I'm telling you - I've been there. I didn't put a 95 ecu in a 94, but I DID put a 94 in a 95 and almost burned up the tranny. I'll find my post about the TSB give me a sec.

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post #11 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 11:25 AM
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Tsb 95-8-3

If you try to pass a lot at 55-60 mph with a car switched from 95-94 or 94-95 ecu, you WILL burn up the tranny - I guarantee it. You said yourself Mikey, you feel a difference. Here is the TSB about mismatching 1994 and 1995 ECMs and Trannys:


Article No.
95-8-3
04/24/95
^ TRANSMISSION - 4R70W - DELAYED/SLOW/SOFT OR HESITATION/SAG ON 1-2 AND/OR 3-4 UPSHIFTS - 3.8L AND 4.6L ENGINES
^ TRANSMISSION - 4R70W - SERVICE TIP FOR INSTALLING A FORD AUTHORIZED REMANUFACTURED TRANSMISSION - PCM REPLACEMENT REQUIRED
FORD:
1994 THUNDERBIRD
LINCOLN-MERCURY:
1994 COUGAR
This TSB is being republished in its entirety to update the Service Procedure to allow for PCM reprogramming and to include references to follow if installing a Ford authorized remanufactured transmission.
CALIBRATION:
4-16F-R00, 4-16F-R10, 4-16T-R00, 4-16T-R10, 4-18A-R05, 4-18A-R11, 4-18B-R05, 4-18B-R10, 4-18P-R05, 4-18P-R10, 4-18A-R10.
WARNING : THIS MODIFICATION IS AUTHORIZED ONLY FOR THE LISTED ENGINE. PERFORMING THIS MODIFICATION ON OTHER ENGINE CALIBRATIONS IS UNAUTHORIZED AND COULD CREATE LIABILITY UNDER APPLICABLE FEDERAL OR LOCAL LAWS.
ISSUE:
A delayed/soft/slow concern may occur during the 1-2 upshift (3.8L engine only), and a "hesitation or sag" during 3-4 upshift (3.8L and 4.6L engines). This is caused by the 1994 shift calibration in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and Transmission Main Control Assembly. The calibration is revised for the 1995 model year to reduce the previously-mentioned conditions. If replacing transmission with a Ford authorized remanufactured transmission, the following Service Procedure must be followed or damage to the transmission could occur.
ACTION:
Refer to the following Service Procedure if any of the previously-mentioned concerns exist. If a Ford authorized remanufactured transmission is being installed, follow the Service Procedure with the exception of replacing the main control.
^ 4.6L Engine - Reprogram or replace the PCM with the 1995 calibration (see Application Charts) and replace the Transmission Main Control Assembly with the revised 1995 part. Refer to the following Service Procedure.
^ 3.8L Engine - Replace the PCM with the 1995 calibration (see Application Charts) and replace the Transmission Main Control Assembly with the revised 1995 part. Refer to the following Service Procedure.
CAUTION :THE PCM RECALIBRATION OR REPLACEMENT AND TRANSMISSION MAIN CONTROL ASSEMBLY CHANGES MUST BE DONE TOGETHER OR TRANSMISSION OVERDRIVE BAND DAMAGE WILL RESULT. DO NOT USE THE 1994 MAIN CONTROL ASSEMBLY WITH THE 1995 PCM CALIBRATION, OR THE 1994 PCM CALIBRATION WITH THE 1995 MAIN CONTROL ASSEMBLY.
CAUTION : IF INSTALLING A FORD AUTHORIZED REMANUFACTURED TRANSMISSION WITH A 1995 LEVEL MAIN CONTROL, THE PCM CALIBRATION MUST BE CHANGED TO THE 1995 LEVEL. THE FORD AUTHORIZED REMANUFACTURED TRANSMISSION WITH THE 1995 LEVEL MAIN CONTROL WILL BE TAGGED TO INDICATE THE 1995 LEVEL MAIN CONTROL HAS BEEN INSTALLED. FAILURE TO UPDATE THE PCM COULD RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE FORD AUTHORIZED REMANUFACTURED TRANSMISSION. THE MAIN CONTROL WILL NOT HAVE TO BE REPLACED. THE UPDATED MAIN CONTROL IS INCLUDED WITH THE FORD AUTHORIZED REMANUFACTURED TRANSMISSION. REFER TO THE SERVICE PROCEDURE FOR DETAILS.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Perform normal diagnosis and repair any concerns found. Refer to 1994 Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) Car/Truck Service Manual for diagnosis procedures and repair.
2. Use the appropriate step for the specific engine.



a. 4.6L Engine
^ Dealers with SBDS: reprogram the PCM with the appropriate calibration per the Application Chart using the June or later calibration update CD ONLY which will be available late May. From SBDS Calibration Selection Menu, select only the one that mentions "Per Transmission Customer Complaint TSB."
^ Dealers without SBDS: Replace PCM assembly per Application Charts.




NOTE : FOR CALIBRATION 4-18A-R10, REPLACEMENT OF ALL EIGHT (8) FUEL INJECTORS WILL BE REQUIRED TO COMPLETE CALIBRATION UPDATE (REFER TO THE APPLICATION CHARTS).



b. 3.8L Engine
Replace PCM assembly per the Application Charts.
3. Install ID tag on main control (found in the Main Control Assembly package).
4. Install the new Transmission Main Control Assembly per the Application Charts. Refer to the 1994 Thunderbird/Cougar Service Manual, Section 07-01, Pages 108-109 for removal procedure, and Pages 163-165 for installation procedure and torque specifications.
NOTE : THE 4R70W TRANSMISSION PAN GASKET IS REUSABLE. CLEAN, INSPECT AND REUSE PAN GASKET AND FILTER.
5. Install the transmission identification sticker (found in the Transmission Main Control Assembly package) on the transmission pan to identify the change for future service.
6. Complete and attach the engine calibration modification decal (attach to radiator core support) that denotes the calibration change and the transmission main control change.


Obtain an Authorized Modifications Decal and list the date, dealer number, and summary of modifications performed. Select a prominent place adjacent to the Vehicle Emission Control Information Decal suitable for installing the Authorized Modifications Decal. Clean the area, install the decal, and cover it with a clear plastic decal shield.
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: 94-14-8
SUPERSEDES: 95-4-7
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
950803A Replace Main Control 2.0 Hrs.
Body And PCM - 3.8L
Engine

950803B Replace Main Control 2.1 Hrs.
Body, PCM And Fuel
Injectors - 4.6L Engine

950803C Replace Main Control 1.8 Hrs.
Body And PCM - 4.6L
Engine

950803D Replace Main Control 2.0 Hrs
Body, Fuel Injectors And
Reprogram PCM - 4.6L
Engine

950803E Replace Main Control 1.7 Hrs.
Body And Reprogram PCM
- 4.6L And 3.8L Engines

950803F Replace Powertrain Control 0.6 Hr.
Module - 4.6L - Use This
Operation When Installing
A Ford Authorized
Remanufactured
Transmission

950803G Reprogram Powertrain 0.3 Hr.
Control Module - 4.6L -
Use This Operation When
Installing A Ford
Authorized
Remanufactured
Transmission

950803H Reprogram Powertrain 0.7 Hr.
Control Module And
Replace Fuel Injectors -
4.6L - Use This Operation
When Installing A Ford
Authorized
Remanufactured
Transmission

950803I Replace Powertrain Control 0.9 Hr.
Module And Replace Fuel
Injectors - 4.6L - Use This
Operation When Installing
A Ford Authorized
Remanufactured
Transmission

950803J Replace Powertrain Control 0.6 Hr.
Module - 3.8L - Use This
Operation When Installing
A Ford Authorized
Remanufactured
Transmission

950803k Reprogram Powertrain 0.3 Hr.
Control Module - 3.8L -
Use This Operation When
Installing A Ford
Authorized
Remanufactured
Transmission
DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
7A100 OR RECAL 42
OASIS CODES: 501000 503000, 504000

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post #12 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 11:34 AM
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Is ANYONE going to listen to me on this? Chances are it's a discrete driver transistor. Right there on the pix in the other thread. Should be cake for anyone handy with electronics and a soldering iron. Problem is getting the transistor.. but could do from a junk ecu AND making sure there's a back-biased diode in there, too.

Just tell the geek it's a solenoid driver and the specs.. he'll figure it out.

HEre's news.. it most likely is NOT the driver transistor that's the primary design fault. It's the protection diode.

When the injector shuts off, there a back voltage of up to 120 volts created with opposite polarity and that is supposed to be shunted to ground so as not to short the transistor. Too much current OPENS a solid state junction. Too much voltage SHORTS a junction.
So what likely happened is the protection diode wasnt able to handle the current from the field-collapse spike and opened up. Which allowed the spike to SHORT the driver transistor.
If you wanted to FIX the 94 problem, you would install a diode capable of handling 2 times the back-voltage and 3 times the current from the back voltage.

Rule of thumb Shutoff power from a dc coil: 10x primary volt, 1/10 primary current... but that last is problematic because it could be considerably more depending on the physical attributes of the coil and core of the solenoid which also generates current as it moves..
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None ever even smacked of ECU fail. Not only that but I see almost no evidence on Blazerforum it happens much, either. And, there, everything can go wrong DOES. GM has sucky wiring and really low quality MAF

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post #13 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 12:56 PM
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Yes putting a 94 ECU into a 95 will create problems because the transmission programming in the 94 ECU sucks. The differences in the main control from 94 to 95 are so minor that they do almost nothing for shift feel. The way your car felt with the 94 ECU in it is pretty much the way every stock 94 trans feels! TSBs are nice, but they are only meant as a guide to be used by the technicians, and a lot of times the manufacturer is just guessing as to the solution, so don't take them as gospel. Aside from that TSB that you posted, there was another TSB pertaining to 94 4.6 tbirds and cougars with a complaint of shift feel, and the fix was to replace the ECM with an A5W0 and change the fluid. I don't know which came first, and I'll see if I can dig up a copy of that TSB as well, but the point is that Ford has at least 2 TSBs pertaining to the same problem on the same vehicle, and both contradict themselves. Doing nothing more than swapping the 95 ECU into the 94 will drastically improve shift feel and extend the life of a stock 94 transmission. I have now had 3 94 4.6 cars that I put a 95 ECU into, and every time it made the transmission feel much better. The first 2 ECUs were swapped due to the injector failure, and the 3rd was swapped as a preventative measure. I have never put the 94 ECU into a 95, and I wouldn't because as far as I'm concerned, the 94 ECU is nothign more than a paperweight.

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-90SC 5-speed, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, soon to be transplanted into...
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-70 Torino GT Fastback project car. Needs EFI and a manual trans, but I'm not sure what motor to go with yet.
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post #14 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 12:59 PM
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These drivers aren't necessarily straight up open-drain transistors.

The injector drivers are current mode devices, and I'll bet the rest are too.

They have a high initial current that folds back after the solenoid actuates to a lower holding current.

That minimizes the operating time and the flyback current to be dissipated when it de-energizes.

The reverse protection devices are usually on the same chip with the transistors.

I'd say the fact the problem is limited to a few models of EEC, that it was undersized.


"Too much current OPENS a solid state junction. Too much voltage SHORTS a junction. "

Yup. But do you know why?

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post #15 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 04:30 PM
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TSBs are nice, but they are only meant as a guide to be used by the technicians, and a lot of times the manufacturer is just guessing as to the solution, so don't take them as gospel.
Exactly, the TSB was released in 1995, so at the time, that was the best solution to the problem - recalibrate the PCM, replace the Valve body which wasnt much better, but it was a small improvement over the 1994. I have seen several 1995 vehicles (mostly Lincolns for some weird reason) with "Valve body Buzzzzzzzzzz"

If there were an up to date TSB, it would be the Transmissions 101 article - except that was written in 1999, and at that time, the 1999 valve body / Main control was considered to be nearly perfect.

On the ECU failures .. I have replaced at least 5 PCM's in 1994 Tbirds for Fuel injector faults. I had one 1995 Tbird that would not control the IAC. If I still owned a 1994/1995 Tbird with a 4.6, I would most likelt re-wire it for a 1996/1997 PCM.

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post #16 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 04:31 PM
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I definitely don't consider TSB's gospel, but I EXPERIENCED the o/d band not releasing, so I know Ford was right in this case.

And I kind of like to think that a Ford engineer that does this 40 hours a week every week designing the system knows more about it than you or I do!

Jerry, for instance.....

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post #17 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 09:09 PM
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PCM went in my 96. 02 Heater Control Circuit Failure on all 4

All the info here

P0135, P0155, P0141, P0161 all at the same time

John
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post #18 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 09:48 PM
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Yea the 96-97 cars have driver that fail on the heater circuits

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post #19 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
"Too much current OPENS a solid state junction. Too much voltage SHORTS a junction. "

Yup. But do you know why?
Sure I know why.. But we dont have to go into junction barrier physics because it just DOES.

Simplest terms, voltage punches hole in the junction barrier, and since the semiconductor is designed to carry the current available through the load it stays shorted.

Different case being in alternator rectifiers where classicly they shorted before they opened. In later ones where they use fewer, or one, hi-current rectifiers per phase, they often end up with a (relatively) high resistance short.

I learn more about cars every day!
I do it just because I still want to know HOW and WHY!!! Quit learning=die. Be informed as to WHAT, rather than learn,=brain-dead already.
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post #20 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 10:44 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Originally Posted by pettyfog View Post
Simplest terms, voltage punches hole in the junction barrier, and since the semiconductor is designed to carry the current available through the load it stays shorted.
Not really; the simple answer is heat.

A high voltage spike avalanches the junction, re-diffusing what used to be a diode junction into a slightly resistive piece of silicon; Usually less than 100 ohms, depending on voltage and power level...

A high current spike, on the other hand, re-diffuses the junction material all over the inside of the casing, usually opening up the circuit. Sometime there's some resistance, (from the silicon coating) but mostly not.

I ask that as an interview question, lol.

Some power supplies and transistors I used to deal with, I could tell how degraded the filter caps were by how shorted the transistor was. What a crappy design... The capacitors were 'cooled' by the air blowing over the main heatsink...

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.

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post #21 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
Not really; the simple answer is heat.

A high voltage spike avalanches the junction, re-diffusing what used to be a diode junction into a slightly resistive piece of silicon; Usually less than 100 ohms, depending on voltage and power level...

A high current spike, on the other hand, re-diffuses the junction material all over the inside of the casing, usually opening up the circuit. Sometime there's some resistance, (from the silicon coating) but mostly not.

I ask that as an interview question, lol.

Some power supplies and transistors I used to deal with, I could tell how degraded the filter caps were by how shorted the transistor was. What a crappy design... The capacitors were 'cooled' by the air blowing over the main heatsink...
Lol.. what he said! Well it's been 45 years. Net practical difference?
They still teach Hole Theory? Not that I care, except it turned my brain inside out.

Here's a free tip for you guys to make this worthwhile, probably works 50% of time or more:
How to troubleshoot a brick type switching power supply

1. Does it Overheat while putting out too little power?
- Yes
Cut open case carefully; box knife along seam to break 'weld' split. Sight along top of capacitors. Replace the one that is not flat with same value mfd and equal or next higher voltage.*

- no
Toss it

* also applicable when your house AC condenser fan and or compressor wont start. Look across top of the can capacitor, if it's domed, it's done.

I learn more about cars every day!
I do it just because I still want to know HOW and WHY!!! Quit learning=die. Be informed as to WHAT, rather than learn,=brain-dead already.
__________________________________________
1993 Silver LX 3.8L My Bravadiva's 'go store-fetch me parts' girl
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post #22 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pettyfog View Post
Here's a free tip for you guys to make this worthwhile, probably works 50% of time or more:
How to troubleshoot a switching power supply

1. Does it Overheat while putting out too little power?
- Yes
Cut open case carefully; box knife along seam to break 'weld' split. Sight along top of capacitors. Replace the one that is not flat with same value mfd and equal or next higher voltage.*
You realize that tip works on non-brick PSUs also, right?

I'll add that you want low-ESR caps in virtually all switch mode power supplies, since it's the Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR) that causes the heating that causes the boiling of the electrolyte which causes the doming which shows that they're dying. If you catch it before they vent. Afterward they vent - well, have you ever had to clean up under a car battery that sprung a leak?

The OTHER thing is to check all the resistors - a lot of designers don't derate power on resistors properly, so you'll find charred / overheated resistors that are now out of spec (if you can even READ the color bands - I've seen some that were so far overheated, it was a solid brown ... ).

Then check all solder joints.

THEN do the "throw it away"

RwP
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post #23 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 10:32 AM
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ON-Topic! If there was ever an analysis of those 94 PCM fails, I still say it will come down to poorly spec'd back-EMF protection
now....
Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
You realize that tip works on non-brick PSUs also, right?

I'll add that you want low-ESR caps in virtually all switch mode power supplies, since it's the Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR) that causes the heating that causes the boiling of the electrolyte which causes the doming which shows that they're dying. If you catch it before they vent. Afterward they vent - well, have you ever had to clean up under a car battery that sprung a leak?

The OTHER thing is to check all the resistors - a lot of designers don't derate power on resistors properly, so you'll find charred / overheated resistors that are now out of spec (if you can even READ the color bands - I've seen some that were so far overheated, it was a solid brown ... ).

Then check all solder joints.

THEN do the "throw it away"

RwP
yes I went down to my convenient surplus elctronic store and picked a couple caps out of a freakin bin. cost about 75 cents. sorry.. they didnt have the ESR ratings on the bin labels

Not about to wade through digi-key for something like that.

Geez, Ralph I didnt want it to turn into an essay.. maybe we should write a diy help for non-automotive money savers.

- sidenote: Brother called a couple weeks ago and said his 5 yo Frig quit. I got up there and saw he had the cover off the micro controller. I eyeballed it and found the board mounted fuse checked it and it was good.
"Yep it's probably broke"
From that point the discussion was HOW to replace the board. I was looking right at the switcher section and didnt even think to look.
Long story short, check internet: Exact symptoms- fail very common and 450 pieces in stock in the local appliance supply dist. Cost $275 Can only be that cheap by very high volume. Seriously, a quality looking board.
Well bro and wife were happy but something nagged at me. That cap thing above.
He doesnt keep stuff that fails around.
Good thing.. I'm afraid I would find a bad $2.50 cap and be a little sick.

You guys with the neat 2 door, and bottom freezer drawer frig's might want to bear that in mind.... at about 3-6 years.

And yes.. I also troubleshoot flaky control boards by poking gently with a non-conductive stick. Bad solder joints at connectors very common on furnace controllers. Fixed one for other brother about a month ago.

I learn more about cars every day!
I do it just because I still want to know HOW and WHY!!! Quit learning=die. Be informed as to WHAT, rather than learn,=brain-dead already.
__________________________________________
1993 Silver LX 3.8L My Bravadiva's 'go store-fetch me parts' girl

Last edited by pettyfog; 01-14-2012 at 10:51 AM.
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post #24 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 10:39 AM
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Sure I know why.. But we dont have to go into junction barrier physics because it just DOES.
I had to mention this line because it reminds me SO MUCH of Joe Dirt's dad in the movie when he says, "How exactly does a posi-trac rear end work on a Plymouth? It just DOES!"


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post #25 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 04:03 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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While we're talking about caps, there are tons of dead dell computers and servers that can be picked up for free, due to bad caps.

I read about it on the web, and went thru our dead pile at work; I added 5 decent P4 era and later computers to the pool of lab computers.

For ~$20 worth of caps...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Love the article, lol. Greed at it's finest.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.

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post #26 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 04:06 PM
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I recently scored a C2D Dell from a buddy due to bad caps...

-Brandon
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post #27 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
While we're talking about caps, there are tons of dead dell computers and servers that can be picked up for free, due to bad caps.

I read about it on the web, and went thru our dead pile at work; I added 5 decent P4 era and later computers to the pool of lab computers.

For ~$20 worth of caps...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Love the article, lol. Greed at it's finest.
Grog, I actually went on a service call and a guy had a 19" flat screen that would turn on then turn off by itself right away. I asked him if he wanted me to try to repair it to which he replied NO, he wanted a brand new one.

That particular monitor he had was like $800, I told him I could get one for less than half that, but he wouldn't have it, so I replaced it with another $800 monitor. I took the old one home, replaced a bad cap with a new one that costed me $0.19 - that's right 19 cents.

Nice monitor, works great! lol

~Rick
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post #28 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
While we're talking about caps, there are tons of dead dell computers and servers that can be picked up for free, due to bad caps.

I read about it on the web, and went thru our dead pile at work; I added 5 decent P4 era and later computers to the pool of lab computers.

For ~$20 worth of caps...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Love the article, lol. Greed at it's finest.
Pleanty of dead Dells at my job from leaking, bursted caps. We usually repair them and send them back out for more abuse. Another motherboard PLAGUED with the same issue is the Intel D915 series MB. I've repaired more of them than I care to admit, including 2 of my own.

John
1996 TBird LX 4.6
2001 Sable Wagon 3.0 Duratec
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post #29 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-15-2012, 03:40 AM
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I had one fail on my '97.....

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post #30 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-15-2012, 06:23 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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I had one fail on my '97.....
Hung injector, or?

I have a 97, so I'm worried...

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.

I'm not Human enough to be human; but I'm trying to fit in, and I'm learning to fake it.

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