Motorcraft vs Other Brand Oil Filters - TCCoA Forums

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post #1 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-08-2014, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Motorcraft vs Other Brand Oil Filters



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post #2 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-08-2014, 07:02 PM
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Ah, a cellulose media filter element.

One made with synthetic fibers will trap smaller particles, and more contaminates with less restriction. An Amsoil filter comes to mind.

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post #3 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 05:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rushtonracing View Post
Ah, a cellulose media filter element.

One made with synthetic fibers will trap smaller particles, and more contaminates with less restriction. An Amsoil filter comes to mind.
Yep Rush going with better quality filters for our rides .

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post #4 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 09:22 AM
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I don't blame you ThunderChecken. Esp. with that engine described in your sig'. Wow! I'd love to see you run sometime. Do you use a trans brake of any type? If not, any trouble staging with that amount of stall? Y'know, cross over, and trip the stage light if shallow staging. Or, perhaps you deep stage.

Anyway, just curious. Haven't heard much chat about trans brakes, nor preferences to shallow or deep stage, and why one would choose between the two.

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Buick gave us fender port holes
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post #5 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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No trans brake . Just left foot lol . The staging thing I am still trying to get a handle on Thanks for the complement on the engine, But just a word that one brings up the rear in the "Carolina Crew" lol

Point man is not for me anyway

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post #6 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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FRAM Extra Guard PH2

01 FORD Taurus 3.0 24 DOHC 181K 5K Oil change

Wife got it on sale, She knows better now. I have no use for there low end filters at all.



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post #7 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderChecken View Post
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy39/angelia-01/IMG_0281_zps886c32c7.jpg
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps6d126986.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderChecken View Post
01 FORD Taurus 3.0 24 DOHC 181K 5K Oil change

Wife got it on sale, She knows better now. I have no use for there low end filters at all.

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps799252f3.jpg
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...psce2cecc1.jpg
How is one better than the other? I've heard the argument on the Honda forums, but people there have stopped telling people which ones to buy and keep buying what works for them.

Personally though, I get the Frahm TG filters (the silver ones) for both my cars.

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post #8 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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For one thing MC /WIX/Pur/ have metal end caps and better filtering.I get into the science of oil and such. To each there on. And everyone has there own option on what they feel is best.

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post #9 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 09:32 PM
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Most obvious difference is the Frams don't have a silicone anti-drainback valve.

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post #10 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 09:43 PM
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Silicone anti-drainback valve?

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'13 Taurus, "The Bull": 3.5L Goodness

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post #11 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 10:09 PM
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The valve stops dirty oil from draining back into the block after the engine is turned off.

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post #12 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 02:38 AM Thread Starter
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And for what its worth to anybody here . Purolator is having issues with torn media in their filters, they have been advised.

Cool view there Rush Here is what I use on my rides.


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Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 03-13-2014 at 07:02 AM. Reason: Fix grammer error
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post #13 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 03:10 AM
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It is important that oil remain in the filter after shut down. Upon start up the flow of oil in the lubrication system starts at the oil pan sump, up the pick up tube, through the oil pump, and then to the filter. From the filter the oil travels directly to the main bearings. If there is no oil in the filter it will take a moment for the pump to fill the filter while meanwhile the main bearings run without oil. A filter with a bypass valve does combat this tendency. Bypass valve, not to be confused with an anti-drain back valve. A quality filter will have both. Note: The bypass valve main purpose is for the oil to bypass the filter in the event of a filter restriction.

It is especially important for a filter to have an anti-drain back valve when the filter screws "sideways" (horizontal) onto the block, since over time gravity will empty the filter. Gravity is not such a factor when a filter is mounted in a vertical position.

This is why many engine designs do have their filters mounted vertical, and remote filters are mounted vertical. Whenever I change the oil in an engine where the filter is mounted vertical, I prime the filter by pouring oil into the filter before I install it so the bearings get oil right away. Not really possible to prime the filter on my stock mounted filter 4.6, because by the time I get the filter into place, and screw it in, much of the oil will drain out in a mess. This occurs even with a filter with an anti-drain back valve because oil will spill out of the center outlet hole.

To be clear (and I've made a correction here since I originally wrote this information), when the engine is off, the spring holds the flap of the valve over the intake holes to block oil from draining back, and when oil pressure is present the flap is pushed away, and the holes open allowing oil to enter into the filter. A simple one way valve.

It is important to consider that a hot filter, mounted sideways, without an anti-drain back valve, will empty in only a few minutes or less. Or, about the time it takes you to buy a big gulp, and return.

On race cars I have built, and driven in the past. we've installed an electric pre-oiler that primes the lubrication system before every start up. We would also run this pump after shut down to cool the engine. And on turbo cars to keep the turbo from coking up. On first start up rebuilds on older engines I've used a ground off teeth oil pump driven gear to drive the oil pump with a long shank slotted screwdriver drill bit, and and electric drill run down the distributor hole. Pressure tank feed to the oil sending unit hole works better tho'.

Anyways...

Here's a exploded view of an Amsoil filter.
Beefy.


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Last edited by rushtonracing; 03-13-2014 at 04:41 PM. Reason: INFORMATION ERROR
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post #14 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rushtonracing View Post
On race cars I have built, and driven in the past. we've installed an electric pre-oiler that primes the lubrication system before every start up.
I do the same on the XR7 with an electrically operated valve on a 1-1/2 quart accumulator. No dry starts here.


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post #15 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderChecken
Cool view there Rush Here is what I use on my rides.
That filter looks to have the same peace of mind parts, and build quality as the Amsoil.

The Amsoil filter for the 4.6 cost between 15-18 dollars. What you pay for one of those? If you don't mind me asking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by racecouger
No dry starts here.
Man, you summed up in four words, and a photo what I jammered on about for six paragraphs!
That system looks freckin' nice.

Is that a schrader valve to charge the accumulator with compressed air?

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post #16 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Napa GOLDs are around 6.75 each on-line . Case of 12 is 6.03 each . The wife here has a uncle that owns a NAPA he gives us a great deal on stuff always. Three of the rides here take the same filter so I have a case of 12 NAPA did have them on sale for 4.03 Monday.

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post #17 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderChecken View Post
Napa GOLDs are around 6.75 each on-line . Case of 12 is 6.03 each . The wife here has a uncle that owns a NAPA he gives us a great deal on stuff always. Three of the rides here take the same filter so I have a case of 12 NAPA did have them on sale for 4.03 Monday.
I'm sold.

Thank you.

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post #18 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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No problem Rush, By the way its a WIX in NAPA colors.

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post #19 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 10:59 AM
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Here's the buzz kill.
So why does my walmart, Fram, purator, insert any
Cheap filter always dump a filter full of oil the frame,
My arm and the ground with each oil change.

Oil , all filters, anti freeze and most other automotive
products are hype.
To get the masses to buy them.

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post #20 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racecougar View Post
I do the same on the XR7 with an electrically operated valve on a 1-1/2 quart accumulator. No dry starts here.

that reminds me, I need to buy the Canton Accusump setup as well. Is this the one that you are running?
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post #21 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 04:54 PM
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This is a nice thread; good editing.

I think I'll get one of these for the engine I'm eternally building.

I've already bought/made the engine pressurizer/pesticide sprayer to pressurize an engine before starting; building one in just makes sense now.

@rustonracing; Our main bearings aren't near as sensitive as cam bearings on these cars, and those are hard to impossible to fix. You Can buy new lower engine bearings.

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post #22 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 05:21 PM
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For me Purolator is the best economical decision, while yes there are better filter, I look at it this way its cheaper than Fram and had better components.

And on a 3.8 it would be impossible for them to drain back.

If all else fails get a bigger hammer!

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post #23 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Dug into them today










The outer cap is very brittle around the edges.


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post #24 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r429460 View Post
Here's the buzz kill.
So why does my walmart, Fram, purator, insert any
Cheap filter always dump a filter full of oil the frame,
My arm and the ground with each oil change.

Oil , all filters, anti freeze and most other automotive
products are hype.
To get the masses to buy them.
Possible explanation:

The filters in question do not have an ADBV.
Oil is spilling out the center outlet hole.
The ADBV /spring are defective.

Notice in the first posted cut up photo of the MotorCraft filter. It has an ADBV. But the spring that holds everything together, and when no oil pressure is presents allows the flap of ADBV to close the inlet holes, is nothing more than that bent piece of rectangular metal. That's the spring. This type of spring is inferior to a coil spring, and will lose it's stored/kinetic energy to preform its given task in a shorter period of time than a coil spring. Hence, oil will spill out of the old used filter when you remove it from the engine.

The filter element has become so distorted it prevents the ADBV/spring to close the holes.
The filter is a counterfeit part.
I am in fact a fool, and being sucker punched by corporate marketing.

Now I want to take a brand new filter with an ADBV, and carefully pour oil only into the inlet holes. Hold my finger over the center outlet hole, and turn the filter upside down, and see what happens.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6
Our main bearings aren't near as sensitive as cam bearings on these cars, and those are hard to impossible to fix. You Can buy new lower engine bearings.
That's good to know. I understand. The reason I wrote "main bearings" is because the liner path of the oil is from the filter to the main bearings first. Then the big end bore of the connecting rods, and then onward and upward.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderChecken
Dug into them today
Outstanding photos. Thanks for posting them.

Wonder how one of those Golds would look...

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post #25 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 06:51 PM
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I always get oil out the center section of the filter and whatever's up above the filter in the block. Once that's drained out, what's left in the filter (between the filter and the case - the stuff that hasn't been filtered yet) doesn't come out.

I always loosen the filter, let the oil drain out slowly, then remove it. There's always a good amount of oil still left in the filter.

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post #26 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rushtonracing View Post
Man, you summed up in four words, and a photo what I jammered on about for six paragraphs!
That system looks freckin' nice.

Is that a schrader valve to charge the accumulator with compressed air?
Thanks. Yep, that is a Schrader valve on the end of the accumulator next to the pressure gauge. It's just there to put the initial charge on the back side of the accumulator piston on a brand new or freshly reassembled accumulator. I haven't added any air to it since the last time I had it apart seven years ago.



Quote:
Originally Posted by guitar maestro View Post
that reminds me, I need to buy the Canton Accusump setup as well. Is this the one that you are running?
That one is Moroso p/n 23901 with their 23905 solenoid valve, which is nothing more than a Goyen p/n 12QA2-DCA/2628 valve re-branded as Moroso.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
@rustonracing; Our main bearings aren't near as sensitive as cam bearings on these cars, and those are hard to impossible to fix. You Can buy new lower engine bearings.
You can buy cam bearings, too. Installation just requires way more work (machining) than slapping in a set of main or rod bearings.

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post #27 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thought I would pass this along, Word is that the MC's have a issue that is called "Popper's" were the end cap metal does not adhere to the media base correctly. This one did not "Pop" off but took a flick of a finger for it too.

Take it for what its worth too you that use them. Don't flame me News to me I have never heard of it .

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post #28 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rushtonracing View Post
...That's good to know. I understand. The reason I wrote "main bearings" is because the liner path of the oil is from the filter to the main bearings first. Then the big end bore of the connecting rods, and then onward and upward.
I'd hate to know what some of these guys have in head parts.

I've recently read of a problem with oil pressure in the later PI engines; mostly 5.4s with the plastic tensioner bodies.
The tensioners apparently leak like a sieve, and drop the oil pressure above them to a point the valve train rattles like a diesel.
Ford has now swapped back to the original design, apparently.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
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post #29 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r429460 View Post
Here's the buzz kill.
So why does my walmart, Fram, purator, insert any
Cheap filter always dump a filter full of oil the frame,
My arm and the ground with each oil change.

Oil , all filters, anti freeze and most other automotive
products are hype.
To get the masses to buy them.
For the first - there's STILL a big hole in the middle, with the threads.

I don't know why you're so clumsy, I don't have that problem at all with my Dakota and just minimally with the Cougar with the 5.0HO ...

As to the latter - Sure it's all hype. Don't put any oil in your motor, don't put any filters on it, put it outside with just water as coolant in 0F weather, and start it up and see how long it runs ...

Yes, there's a lot of snake oil. But not ALL filters are hype.

That's one thing going in this forum - seeing how they're made inside.

RwP
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post #30 of 244 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racecougar View Post
That one is Moroso p/n 23901 with their 23905 solenoid valve, which is nothing more than a Goyen p/n 12QA2-DCA/2628 valve re-branded as Moroso.
Nice unit, but at only 1.5qts it won't do for me. I'm going with the 3qt accusump afterall. If I loose oiling at 7000+ RPMs, I need to make sure my very unique valvetrain stays together and my lower cam bearings don't get ruined.
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