and this, boys & girls, is why you check your battery.. OFTEN (I didn't) - TCCoA Forums

 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 02:55 AM Thread Starter
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and this, boys & girls, is why you check your battery.. OFTEN (I didn't)

I took these pics during a recent repair of a leaky windshield washer hose up front.

This is what happens when you fail to regularly ensure that no gremlins have targeted you.

The battery that exploded was a Duralast Gold. Ok, it didn't exactly explode, but damn near to it; the yellow top cracked near the negative terminal. That took out the OEM terminal clamp and body paint.

The clamp was easily enough replaced with an aftermarket; the OEM cover was unaffected, but I had to modify it slightly for use with the new clamp.

There's no rust-through, but it won't get any better by itself. I'll have to remove the proportioning valve (I hate bleeding brakes) -- the rust is really bad underneath its bracket -- and do quite a bit of work all in that cavity/area. What a mess!





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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 05:52 AM
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That sucks!

I don't know how fresh the acid is, but regardless I would neutralize everything in that area as a first step..

Just get a bucket of tap water, and mix in plenty of baking soda with it..Then grab a soft bristled brush, and try to scrub the whole area with the baking soda solution..

Then just use plain tap water to rinse off any of the baking soda solution left behind..

Next use a heat gun, or just a blow dryer to thoroughly dry the entire area..

The next step should be POR-15 the whole area..Then if you'd like you could find body matching paint to paint over the POR-15..

POR-15 is not resilient to UV from the Sun so it should be covered up with some sort of paint anyways..

Good luck!






Rayo..

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Last edited by Rayo; 06-09-2015 at 05:59 AM.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayo View Post
That sucks!

I don't know how fresh the acid is, but regardless I would neutralize everything in that area as a first step..

Just get a bucket of tap water, and mix in plenty of baking soda with it..Then grab a soft bristled brush, and try to scrub the whole area with the baking soda solution..

Then just use plain tap water to rinse off any of the baking soda solution left behind..

Next use a heat gun, or just a blow dryer to thoroughly dry the entire area..

The next step should be POR-15 the whole area..Then if you'd like you could find body matching paint to paint over the POR-15..

POR-15 is not resilient to UV from the Sun so it should be covered up with some sort of paint anyways..

Good luck!






Rayo..
I haven't used Por15 in years so that's good info to know.

I'd neutralize it with baking soda first also.

To the OP. I bout a quart of something called Evapo-Rust at O'Riellys. It seemed to do a excellent job at removing rust and corrosion. Brushing off the scale and then soaking the area with some paper towels saturated with Evapo-rust will probably help immensely as far as removing the corrosion.

Don't forget the check the underside of the apron and fender and protect that too. Some type of seam sealer or a thin layer of JB Weld or Epoxy to fill in any pinholes or gaps probably is not going to hurt either.

Nothing I've bought labeled DuraLast has ever been very Durable or Lasting
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-16-2015, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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The acid is long since dried up. The battery burst a long time ago, and I just haven't been able to work on this, but as you can see, I'm forced to take action pronto now.

I know everyone defaults to POR-15 for rust treatment/prevention, but it's pricey, and may not be necessary (for me).

As for the rust remover, I used Rustoleum's stripper on the inside of my driver side fender -- the morons at the body shop who sprayed the replacement fender did a crap job (other guy's insurance paid for it) and it started rusting underneath their paint.
The Rustoleum stripper removed almost all of the rust, after several applications, but I had to use a Dremel wire wheel & magnifying visor to get every last speck prior to priming the bare steel.

I need to remove the fender soon to see how well that primer has held up over the last 5 years. Leaves collect at the fender rear/bottom, and that's where the original rust appeared, so I'm a bit worried.
If no new rust has formed inside the fender, I'll be more inclined to feel confident in just laying down primer in areas the battery vomited on, if I can get every last bit of rust removed first.

If there's new rust in the fender or I can't get all the rust removed from the battery area, then I'll invest in POR-15 or similar.
I think I still have some "rust converter" product around here somewhere, but it's so seldom that I need it that I've forgotten the brand name or whether I still have it (shelf life is probably expired anyway).
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