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post #1 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 01:03 AM Thread Starter
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move along people, nothing to see here

It's only like the 3rd time I assemble this damn thing, figure I might as well get some pics for you guys. I wasn't happy with some of the clearances, so I decided to align hone the block to free up some of the mains, so you can thank ARP studs for clamping down so damn much, lol. Newbs that haven't even popped the hood open on their car might as well subscribe to this thread.

Weapons of our warfare. Basic things needed for assembling the shortblock:



HOT soapy water is you friend for cleaning parts. WARNING: do not do this in YOUR kitchen sink as your wife will probably flat out murder you, lol.



Here you can see the mains after washing/cleaning with the coated bearings in place. You can spot some of the marks from sliding the bore gauge in there.



The bolts you see in the previous pic are my "thread chasers". I ground 3 flat areas onto them in order to run them through the threads to clean out any crud that may have been left behind from cleaning the block. I used wd40 and/or lubricating oil to run through all the threaded fastener holes, and just vacuumed it out as it gets displaced by the bolt. I don't know about you but I HATE the sound of torquing a fastener and hearing that CRUNCH CRUNCH CRUNCH sound like if there was Frosted Flakes in the hole. This is the difference between that sound, and buttery-smooth fastener torquing.



Naturally, I washed and cleaned all of my ARP main studs, hollow screws, and side bolts.


DID YOU KNOW?

There are 119 threaded fastener holes in a RWD modular aluminum block.

Trans Bellhousing (7) M10x1.5
Rear Cover (6) M6x1.0
Motor mounts (6) M10x1.5
Oil pan rail (10) M8x1.25
A/C compressor (3) M8x1.25
Power steering pump (2) M8x1.25
Oil filter/coolant adapter (4) M8x1.25
Alternator (2) M8x1.25
Water pump (4) M8x1.25
Timing cover (7) M8x1.25
chain guides (4) M6x1.0
oil pump (4) M6x1.0
Large main bolts (10) M10x1.5
Small main bolts (10) M8x1.25
Hollow jack screws (10) M18x1.5(?)
Side Bolts (10) M8x1.25
Headbolts (20) M10x1.5


There are actually 2 more (M12x1.5 for the knock sensors), but I don't count those because who actually uses them for a 2V build? lol.

So, yes I chased each and every single bolt hole. Here you can see some Qtips that I used to clean out the rear cover holes after chasing them. Lots of crud.



One modification I did was I added 3/8" NPT pipe plugs to the main oil galleys instead of using the small "freeze plugs". Why? Ford wanted about $15 a piece for each one, and all of the auto parts stores only had the 1/2" ones, which do not fit properly (the ford ones are a tad over 13mm each). So I figured: I have a 3/8 NPT tap. I have the corresponding drill bit. I have plenty of pipe plugs from some old heads. I have time. Time to tap.

This is how far the tap needs to go because the pipe plug absolutely needs to be below the surface for both the rear cover AND the front cover..









This is what I used for those plugs and the identical plugs on the sides of the block:




Installed the rear freeze plugs at the same time since the back would be inaccessible due to the engine stand.



It's interesting to note that the main oil galley plugs are different for different year Teksid blocks. This is the casting # on mine:





The HD stands for "heavy duty", the strongest of the strongest Teksid blocks. Nah I'm just kidding, what do I know? lol.

These are two other Teksids I have





....YET both of those other ones have a larger plug on the rear of the main oil galley, so a 3/8" NPT pipe plug won't fit.


Weird. Anyways.....


Here the upper halves of the mains are installed. As with any other mod motor, there are tangs on one side, so you can't go wrong unless you're a bafoon. Look at how CLEAN those main bolt holes are!!



Lathering up the mains with assembly lube



I used a different kind of assembly lube (with anti-seize) for the main studs. These studs don't get torqued into the block, just finger tight, but it's still good for them to go in smoothly.



Here you can see my two main fastener lubricants. The ARP is required to achieve the correct amount of preload on the studs. The other I use for all the other fasteners.



Mains all lube'd up and studs in place.



Here the crank is in place (even though I took it out to verify the main bearing clearances), with assembly lube over the main journals:




When using studs, it is of utmost importance to lubricate the bottom of the nut so the nut's bottom glides around the washer that stays in place against the main cap.


Gotta lube up the lower mains as well:



Don't forget to lube the thrust washer. The indentations face outward away from the block, between the block and the crank on the upper half of the #5 main bearing:




Likely due to manufacturing tolerances in the block, some studs go in further into the main webbing than others. If you're not careful, you could end up with less than 100% thread engagement with the nut like this:



I asked around with a top builder, and it's better to back out the stud just a bit in order to achieve 100% thread engagement like so:




In case you didn't spot it in the earlier pic, here is how far I tapped the oil return holes with a 1/4"-18 NPT tap. More on this later



Here are some pics of the honing (that I did) on the block with a 320grit Flexhone:












I trust my machine shop when they told me that they align honed the mains for 0.0025" of clearance, but I went ahead and double checked myself. My bore gauge only reads to 0.0005" accuracy, so how did I get the extra 0.0001" resolution? I tried to replicate the exact reading on the bore gauge in a micrometer, so obviously my readings likely have some error. If you average them out though, it does come out to 0.0025".




crank in place as well as dial indicator on a magnetic stand to check crankshaft endplay (attached to the #1 main cap---thanks Jim! it's getting used! cams next!! )





Videos of rotating the crank by hand, and checking crankshaft endplay:



With the small torque wrench at the lowest setting, 25 in*lbs which is slightly more than 2 ft*lbs, the crank turned very easily and didn't make it "click".


Video of checking crankshaft endplay







More to come tomorrow!! Subscribe!!

Last edited by guitar maestro; 09-26-2012 at 12:18 AM.
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post #2 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 01:32 AM
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Where'd you get that Chineeze gauge? Harbor Freight? You know they're only accurate to ± 1"

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
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post #3 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
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haha...I think I got it on ebay...it's accurate enough
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post #4 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 01:37 AM
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lol

I was telling Matt if you want Nuclear grade precision the gauges that we use at the plants are Starrett.

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

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post #5 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
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Oh I know about Starrett. Not about to spend $2grand on a dial indicator lol
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post #6 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 06:47 AM
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I'm pretty sure that those engines weren't assembled with that much precision from the factory! Last engine I completely tore down, rebuilt, and checked that closely with plasti-gauge and a dial indicator was the 318 in my old Dodge. As I bolted each rod on the crank, I rotated the engine to see that everything was spinning freely; at one point one of the rods I could feel a slight 'drag' as the engine rotated, found where the clearance was getting 'tight' on the rod journal, and just emery-clothed that area down until it spun freely again (I'm sure you aren't going to be so crude on your build).

Anyways, I still have that engine with over 150,000 miles since rebuild and it runs STRONG!

Great job on your care, cleansiness, precision, and checking, checking, checking!

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post #7 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 06:47 AM
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Did you use "Dawn" to wash your Main Caps/Bearings in your Kitchen Sink/Parts Washer?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>End of Page!






Informative Read..






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post #8 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayo View Post
Did you use "Dawn" to wash your Main Caps/Bearings in your Kitchen Sink/Parts Washer?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>End of Page!






Informative Read..






Rayo..
Of course not. I think it was Palmolive. Lol

Besides, they were already clean. I've only washed everything a bazillion times in degreaser ; this was just a quickie wash where degreaser wasn't really necessary.
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post #9 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 12:38 PM
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I always use the sink...unless its a rear...that stinks the house up to much.

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post #10 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 12:47 PM
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Should have had you assemble my long block. Are you going to go with the later timing cover or your NPI timing cover? Great pictures!

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post #11 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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I'm using my stock 96/97 timing cover.
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post #12 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 04:32 PM
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You didn't get it ceramic coated?

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post #13 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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You didn't get it ceramic coated?
well the paint I used on it has ceramic in it, lol.
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post #14 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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wasn't able to get much done today. Took a good amount of time to crunch the numbers. Here is a page of some of the "blueprinting" that I did.

After matching up the pistons, pins, and rods, I ended up with a combination that exhibits only 1.1g of standard deviation (how much "on average" each part deviates from the actual average).




Plenty of parts to get ready



Since my coated Manley H-heams no longer have any visible markings, I labeled each side as either I (inside) or O (outside) in order to maintain a record of the ARP2000 rod bolts before and after stretching them to the achieve the proper preload.





On rods like Manley's, they are not fractured like stock OEM rods, so the cap can accidentally be put backwards. The thing to note is that the tangs go "together", not on opposite sides of the rod journal. You may also notice tiny markings next to each tang that is from the tang on the other side of it.



Setup for measure the rod bolt free-lengths



Using the micrometer





Got three rods done, in addition to washing all the piston and pins.






More tomorrow!
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post #15 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 10:23 PM
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Nice Mr. Math Teacher!

couldn't help notice that you had MNF on in the background. Not the best game i ever saw, lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by guitar maestro View Post


Video of checking crankshaft endplay

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post #16 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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yea it was bad, but it's what the NFL needed--major controversy to whip things back in shape!
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post #17 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 10:56 PM
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Being a Packer fan I was over it an hour after the game ended. It's the retarded Packers fans I hate around here. Time to move on and look forward to next week.

Anyways, back on topic...This has to be one of the most detailed long block assemblies I've ever seen. Keep up the good work sir!

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post #18 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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haha you'd get along great with one of my friends. Huge packers fan. Has a packers cloth drape inside the front door window, cheese hat, packers only parking sign, etc, etc. Yet he's never been to Wisconsin, lol.
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post #19 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-26-2012, 09:21 AM
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Glad to see my tools getting some use. If that's my dial guage, came from Summit in a kit, it's plenty accurate enough. I take it your going to run some kinda oil restrictor, hence the threaded return holes?? I was fairly prescise and clean on my engine build, but nothing like that. I did chase all threaded holes though, I hear ya on crunchy threads. I'm about to get into building the big motor, that one I need to spend some time on though. Lots of casting flash to grind smooth, still debating on whether or not to grind the whole block smooth or not. Lookin good so far though, can't wait to see more!!

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post #20 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-26-2012, 01:20 PM
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Queue brain smoke. Being a math teacher you obviously have plenty more patience than I would!

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post #21 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-26-2012, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CableguyJJS3 View Post
Glad to see my tools getting some use. If that's my dial guage, came from Summit in a kit, it's plenty accurate enough. I take it your going to run some kinda oil restrictor, hence the threaded return holes?? I was fairly prescise and clean on my engine build, but nothing like that. I did chase all threaded holes though, I hear ya on crunchy threads. I'm about to get into building the big motor, that one I need to spend some time on though. Lots of casting flash to grind smooth, still debating on whether or not to grind the whole block smooth or not. Lookin good so far though, can't wait to see more!!
The dial indicator is from my bore gauge; your dial indicator is on the red bridge still-- but the magnetic stand is definitely yours

The threaded oil drainback holes ain't for restricting oil; that's the last thing you want for sustained high RPM use. More to come on that
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post #22 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-26-2012, 02:20 PM
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The threaded oil drainback holes ain't for restricting oil; that's the last thing you want for sustained high RPM use. More to come on that
Yeah I'm gonna have to see this. If your not restricing, I can't see anything in my head that would help oil flow that would need to be threaded. Not unless your gonna run some kinda aux oil pump and feed lines....

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post #23 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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On today's menu: All Forged, coated everything shortblocks.

Started assembling each rod/piston/pin/ring combo yesterday




First oil expander ring + two oil control rings




Bottom ring first, then top ring





Ring side clearance checks in at the minimum 0.0015" on both compression rings








Get some assembly lube on the piston pin bores and the rod pin bore





BTW, the coating you see on the rod itself is the same as on the crankshaft; it's a special oil-shedding coating that is supposed to help "fling" oil off when at high-RPMs. This I hope will reduce HP loss due to oil-windage in the crankcase.







Now here is the devil called a Spirolox. PITA.





You gotta carefully stretch them out in order to compress them into the pin locking groove. About 1/4"-1/2" is good






Then ya gotta carefully press that sucker in there. If I wasn't wearing gloves, I've have a lot of small cuts, lol.




A view of the double spirolox setup




Video of installing ONE spirolox. Each piston takes 4. Two on each side of the pin.



Had to use a cheapie ring compressor, worked fine. Not as nice as those flared ones, but it worked.




One down, 7 more to go.




But first before the rest go in, gotta tied up the bottom with this--a Rod bolt stretch gauge from Jegs




This particular model isn't very good because the internal spring in the dial indicator is a "normal one". For this you need a very high strength spring so the whole thing doesn't collapse under the weight of the indicator and handle. I had to modify it with a stronger spring inside, and here is the basic setup of it.




Video of stretching a rod bolt to the specified 0.0055"-0.0060".




So, you have to do ALL of this for each and every single piston/rod/pin combo PLUS stretch two rod bolts for each rod. Definitely not for a newbie.


Here I was checking for piston deck height




The machine shop said they took off 0.006" to straighten up the decks, but due to rod/pin/piston tolerances, not all pistons were 0.006" above the deck as they should have been. [These were custom made pistons with extra compression height that would have made them zero-deck on a stock engine]

Here is the data that I collected from each piston on the left column. The "x-bar" variable on the second column (with it's corresponding numerical value in the third column) is the mean, or average value. The "σ" variable (sigma) is the standard deviation.




Those two numbers are important because not everything is perfect. On average the pistons stick out 0.005". Would it be a "good" number to use for all the cylinders when calculating the final compression ratio? Only if each piston height varies very, very little from this average. Luckily they do vary very little, which is what the σ tells us. With each piston height varying only "on average" 0.00098" (or about 0.001") from the average of all eight values, σ tells us that the mean of 0.005" of piston deck height is a good number to use for all eight cylinders.

So, crunching the numbers in http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html, final compression ratio comes in at 13.3:1. Sweet.


















Thats all for today.


Up next time: MHS Stage 3 coated heads with all the bells and whistls + ultra-slick superfinished Stage 5 cams/sprockets/chains!!!
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Last edited by guitar maestro; 09-29-2012 at 01:40 PM. Reason: compression ratio
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post #24 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 11:38 PM
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Ok I see the Dr. Pepper cans in the background, and thats all well and good. But don't you know that no engine will run worth a damn without beer?!?!?! Need some beer dude, just sayin is all lol lookin good. Dumb question maybe, but was all the high end balancing done before or after the high end coatings?? If after will the coating affect the balance??

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post #25 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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haha...no beer on this thread when tens of thousands of $$$ are involved, lol

the balancing was done before the coatings. The weight of coatings is insignificant.
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post #26 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 12:12 AM
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mmmmm, Dr Pepper Cherry... its got a KISS of cherry flavor

love seeing this type of stuff. not many people bother with the whole math and micrometer stuff.... seems they all figure, get it together and if it gets a few WOTs without flying apart its probably ok >.>

nothing like one bearing getting less oil pressure then the rest and locking up a few thousand miles down the road to make you feel like your effort and time was well spent

perfectionists make me smile, and their work never disappoints. and this looks like this motor should put smiles on a lot of faces for quite a while.

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post #27 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 05:08 AM
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Top of the pistons looks like sand-paper

2017 Mustang GT Base/ Making my own premium
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post #28 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by nall_one View Post
and this looks like this motor should put smiles on a lot of faces for quite a while.
I imagine there's going to be a lot of scowls and glowering as he leaves them in the dust, too!

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post #29 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 07:21 AM
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How smooth is the head mating surfaces of that block? I can see the lines in the pics and doesn't Ford recommend a roughness of no greater than 12 Ra for those surfaces (for proper sealing of MLS gaskets)?

I know as meticulous as you are and the money you've invested you know the answer to this question!

~Rick
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post #30 of 145 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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