My First Mod: PI Intake and a Few More Little Things - TCCoA Forums

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post #1 of 261 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 12:52 AM Thread Starter
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My First Mod: PI Intake and a Few More Little Things

Armed with my knowledge gained of threads I've already read and a PI intake on the way, I finally had the chance to start pulling apart my T-Bird over the weekend.

I suspected that the issue for my cylinder 4 misfire was due to coolant in the spark plug chamber, and although I haven't yet pulled the spark plugs to verify, I still believe that the plug has coolant on

the firing pin. The other plugs on the passenger side weren't too far behind since those were also full of coolant in the spark plug chamber.

Cyl# 4


Cyl# 1 actually had coolant and oil going all the way up to the metal contact point at the top of the spark plug.



One thing in all my readings of PI swap threads and YouTube PI DIY videos I saw that I never understood was how to remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail. A post on the TCCoA FB page led me to an initial

response of "You need a special tool" to which I said, "eff that!", which led me to another YouTube video stating to sacrifice a sharpie! So I did. Actually I had to sacrifice two of them since I didn't

realize that the fuel disconnect lines were different sizes, lol.



After pulling out the NPI, I saw how bad I had been leaking and how dirty overall the top side of the engine was. These pictures just don't give how disgusting the top end was.









And here are the gaskets that came off. The passenger side (bottom) is in far worse shape than the driver side (top). In the close-up shot, you can see where the coolant passage part of the gasket had even

sparated a little bit from the rest of the gasket.





In my readings of the PI Intake swap, it was said to replace the O-Rings of the fuel injectors, so I pulled them out of the NPI now instead of later, and checked out the O-rings. They still seemed somewhat

plyable, but they didn't have that perfect "donut" shape to them anymore. They seemed to be a little more flattened along the outside edge. I have a box of various sized O-Rings that I can try. Hopefully

one of those will be the right ones. And don't mind the dirt. That happened from the dirt that was covering up the NPI when I pulled it. I've cleaned the injectors with a soft brush since taking the

picture.



Oh, and one injector had this cracked problem. What do you guys say about it? Keep it or replace it?



The last thing that I was trying to get to but wasn't able to was the water pump. That thing is on there so tight, that me banging it with a rubber mallet didn't even help! I started to use a hammer to it

and I bent it in some areas and broke chips off of it in other areas!





One of the things I want to do aside from the PI Intake are to change all the top end gaskets as well such as valve cover gaskets. I just need to figure out how to remove the plastic tabby things located on some of the valve cover nuts that hold in the spark plug wires. Looking at them, they're just clipped in from the top, but I can't find a release mechanism on removing them so that I can get the valve covers off. After a proper cleaning, I plan to paint the valve covers as well, but I haven't decided on a color yet. I'm thinking silver, but I'm not sure how well that will match with pearl white .



In terms of other little things I need are are battery terminals. The terminals I have on there now are some soft lead based ones I purchased about a year ago when the old ones corroded through the copper wire. The current ones are doing something similar particularly the negative terminal. I even have those red / green felt padding and also coated the terminals with di-electric grease to prevent corrosion, but it's still happening. I have to clean off the terminals about once a month minmum. My Honda has a different set of terminals, I think they're Zinc plated or something, and I've never had to worry about corrosion. I'd rather get a new set of terminals right now as well but I have no idea what to get. I guess that since I'll be replacing batery terminals, this might also be a great opportunity to do the "big 3" upgrade just because, but we'll see how that works out. Something else that NEEDS to be taken care of are my brake lines. I made a post about two weeks ago that I noticed that some O-Rings had popped out from a coupler thing just where the driver side door is at. So I'll need to take care of that while I'm doing all this. Probably towards the end of it all. I'm also thinking of just taking care of the blend door actuator while I'm at it all. I'm going to be replacing the coolant hoses to / from the heater core on the engine compartment side while I have this all apart, why not just do the blend door actuator while I'm at it all, right? Besides, that'll make sure I have heat for the winter! lol.

The other big thing I want is to do a cam upgrade while the top end is taken apart. Reading through some of the threads, I've come to realize that I need a special tool from Ford if I want to be "lazy" about it and not remove the front end, but it's recommened to remove the front end as it'll ensure that the timing doesn't come undone. One other thing I've read up on is the type of cams being put on, Romero or Windsor, and that I need to get Romero cams put on. I've gotta read up more on what all is required to remove the front end. All the pulleys need to come off of course. Not sure if there are any other gaskets and such that I need to be aware of. I haven't really read too much of the details of how to the process goes for either method, but I know that the tool requires an extra set of hands and in order to get the job done right. I still need to read up on the DIY process of that and decide which way I'm going to do it. Just eyeballing it, I know that removing the front will require that I remove all the other pulleys first. I'm guessing I'll need an impact wrench to remove the crank pulley? I need to search some more on that in order to make sure that I'll be doing it right. Removing the cover, I *should* change the sproket from a dual to a single gear is another recommendation I saw on some of the threads.

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post #2 of 261 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 06:35 AM
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Get a Bosch EV6 style rebuild kit. It'll include new pintle caps and O-rings.

As for taking off the front cover, you don't need to remove the water pump but it'll make things easier. No need to remove the A/C compressor either, but the P/S pump will need to have a couple bolts removed. You probably won't need an impact to undo the balancer bolt (I didn't). Switching to the stamped trigger wheel is recommended if you go in there. Just make sure you black RTV the keyway on the balancer before you reinstall it; you might also want to pick up the three rubber gaskets for the front cover.
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post #3 of 261 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDsDontBurn View Post
Armed with my knowledge gained of threads I've already read and a PI intake on the way, I finally had the chance to start pulling apart my T-Bird over the weekend.
The scars are still fresh for me, I just finished this a couple of weeks ago!

Quote:
The last thing that I was trying to get to but wasn't able to was the water pump. That thing is on there so tight, that me banging it with a rubber mallet didn't even help! I started to use a hammer to it

and I bent it in some areas and broke chips off of it in other areas!
Normal ops. You can get a new pump for the same price of a rebuilt now. Just keep smacking it back and forth and don't worry about breaking it.

Look at an 03 mustang cobra? pump... search is your friend...

I put some grease around the whole mating surface of the new pump. It was recommend to me to help remove the pump next time.

Quote:
I just need to figure out how to remove the plastic tabby things located on some of the valve cover nuts that hold in the spark plug wires.
I just grabbed mine and pulled. They don't seem to have threads, just pushed on.

Quote:
I have to clean off the terminals about once a month minimum.
Mine don't corrode with the pads. The only time I've seen this is when the battery is leaking acid. There is a seal between the battery post and the plastic case. If the seal is bad you get bad corrosion. Besides a warranty replacement, you could clean and try a thin film of silicone at the terminal/case junction to slow the leakage.


Quote:
I know that removing the front will require that I remove all the other pulleys first.
Don't remove any pulleys!
listen to what theterminator93 said
Quote:
Removing the cover, I *should* change the sprocket from a dual to a single gear is another recommendation I saw on some of the threads.
Although you will hear other opinions, I wish I could find the link to a post by a very, very knowledgeable member here on another forum, stating that the single gear is nice insurance but overkill with stock valve springs and that he would use the two piece gears on his own car with stock springs. Yes, massive cams need massive springs which create massive drag which can overwhelm the two piece gears partial keyway engagement. Stock springs, not so much. Probably the most common aftermarket replacement crank gears are the Trickflow adjustable gears which are two piece.

I also replaced the oil filter adapter gasket since it was easily? accessible with the front cover off and the power steering pump removed. You don't want to fix it later and it will eventually leak in my experience.

I'd also replace the front crankshaft seal if you have the cover off. A seal puller is nice but not required and the seal goes in without tools. I used a factory seal and it is beefier so YMMV with the aftermarket.

The water pump, power steering pump, and the oil filter adapter gasket and the front seal cost me half a day and the most grief of the whole job.

Good Luck - You've come to the right place
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post #4 of 261 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 04:55 PM
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Need a bigger hammer to get the water pump off .. but yeah, smack it on the pulley end, not the bolt side. You did remove all of the bolts, correct ??

The coolant you have in those plug wells will definately cause misfire issues. Good time to clean everything up, change plugs, intake gaskets, fuel injector O rings, etc .. I wouldnt worry about the pintle caps on the injectors so much but if you can get them, replace them while they are out.

Fuel line disconnect tools .. you can get the plastic ones at the auto store for SUPER cheap, like $3.00 cheap and they work pretty good actually. But I guess you can use a sharpie also.
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post #5 of 261 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 05:20 PM
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Don't use O-rings from a General Purpose kit; Alcohol will degrade them, unless you paid a lot for the kit, lol.

GM posted this in the Explorer Injector Thread (under the pushrod forum):

Quote:
Originally Posted by guitar maestro View Post

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post #6 of 261 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 05:47 PM
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Heh I use marker caps for disconnects too, used them on every single one on these cars with success. The proper ones are a bit easier to use since they have a shoulder you can push on, but eh, I always walk by those at at auto parts stores and I always seem to say to myself "eh, I'll get them next time" - several years later I still use marker caps lol

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post #7 of 261 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
Get a Bosch EV6 style rebuild kit. It'll include new pintle caps and O-rings.

As for taking off the front cover, you don't need to remove the water pump but it'll make things easier. No need to remove the A/C compressor either, but the P/S pump will need to have a couple bolts removed. You probably won't need an impact to undo the balancer bolt (I didn't). Switching to the stamped trigger wheel is recommended if you go in there. Just make sure you black RTV the keyway on the balancer before you reinstall it; you might also want to pick up the three rubber gaskets for the front cover.
Don't use O-rings from a General Purpose kit; Alcohol will degrade them, unless you paid a lot for the kit, lol.

GM posted this in the Explorer Injector Thread (under the pushrod forum):
The ones in that link will definitely do! I've got some time to do all this, and it looks like my tab is going up on this upgrade because of added TLC. No matters, I know my Bird will be flying better than before after all is said and done .

Quote:
Originally Posted by flybynite View Post
Normal ops. You can get a new pump for the same price of a rebuilt now. Just keep smacking it back and forth and don't worry about breaking it.

Look at an 03 mustang cobra? pump... search is your friend...

I put some grease around the whole mating surface of the new pump. It was recommend to me to help remove the pump next time.
I'm thinking of getting a water pump from the newer Mustangs. I read on a thread here that the '07 Mustang water pump is a direct bolt on. I need to go find that thread again and verify the year. The thing I'm worried about getting a different water pump is that the pulley won't line up with the other pullies and I'll need to figure that out afterwards.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flybynite View Post
I just grabbed mine and pulled. They don't seem to have threads, just pushed on.
When I was looking at them, they seem to be clipped on. I couldn't really tell though because it was so dirty. I was also thinking of just grabbing them and pulling, but since they're plastic I'm worried about breaking them since the plastic is so old - and likely brittle - by now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flybynite View Post
Mine don't corrode with the pads. The only time I've seen this is when the battery is leaking acid. There is a seal between the battery post and the plastic case. If the seal is bad you get bad corrosion. Besides a warranty replacement, you could clean and try a thin film of silicone at the terminal/case junction to slow the leakage.
So it's likely that the terminal has a slow leak then. I'm not sure that the battery is still under warranty either. My wife got the battery before her and I met.....so at least 6 years ago.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flybynite View Post
Don't remove any pulleys! listen to what theterminator93 said
So I don't need to remove the crank pulley when removing the front of the engine case?

Oh, and speaking of pullies, yesterday I was spinning around all the pulleys to check for free spin and the PS pump pulley didn't spin anywhere near as freely as the other pullies. It still spun and all, but it wouldn't go beyond two rotations before stopping whereas the other pullies seemed to to go for at least 10 rotations before stopping. To me, that's a sign that it's on its way out and should be replaced before it completely seizes. True, or is it supposed to not have as much free spin as the other pullies?

Quote:
Originally Posted by flybynite View Post
Although you will hear other opinions, I wish I could find the link to a post by a very, very knowledgeable member here on another forum, stating that the single gear is nice insurance but overkill with stock valve springs and that he would use the two piece gears on his own car with stock springs. Yes, massive cams need massive springs which create massive drag which can overwhelm the two piece gears partial keyway engagement. Stock springs, not so much. Probably the most common aftermarket replacement crank gears are the Trickflow adjustable gears which are two piece.
Basically, if I don't change the valve springs, I don't need to worry about changing over to the single piece gear. That's what I'm understanding here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flybynite View Post
I also replaced the oil filter adapter gasket since it was easily? accessible with the front cover off and the power steering pump removed. You don't want to fix it later and it will eventually leak in my experience.
I guess that's something else that should be replaced as well. Why not? Are there any particular brands to use like NAPA brand, or is Motorcraft really the only way to go on that?

Quote:
Originally Posted by flybynite View Post
I'd also replace the front crankshaft seal if you have the cover off. A seal puller is nice but not required and the seal goes in without tools. I used a factory seal and it is beefier so YMMV with the aftermarket.

The water pump, power steering pump, and the oil filter adapter gasket and the front seal cost me half a day and the most grief of the whole job.
Like I said, I'd like to replace any gaskets, seals, etc. that will be available during all of this, so it looks like I'll need a seal puller. Hopefully, I can just rent or borrow this tool from someone since this kind of work is something that I won't be doing very often, lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flybynite View Post
Good Luck - You've come to the right place
Thanks! I've been here long enough, lol. I can't wait to have her put back together again and feel her fly!

Quote:
Originally Posted by SCTbird1994 View Post
Need a bigger hammer to get the water pump off .. but yeah, smack it on the pulley end, not the bolt side. You did remove all of the bolts, correct ??
I only counted and removed 4 bolts. The two bolts that are on there half way is simply so that the WP doesn't come crashing down to the floor below once it's off. I'll try and get a bigger hammer for sure though.

Should I keep hitting the end of my screw driver with the hammer, or should I hit the water pump directly with the hammer?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SCTbird1994 View Post
The coolant you have in those plug wells will definately cause misfire issues. Good time to clean everything up, change plugs, intake gaskets, fuel injector O rings, etc .. I wouldnt worry about the pintle caps on the injectors so much but if you can get them, replace them while they are out.
Yea. I'm going to use my air compressor to blow out all of the coolant and any other crud that may have fallen down into the the plug wells before pulling out the plugs. That's the smart way to do it, lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SCTbird1994 View Post
Fuel line disconnect tools .. you can get the plastic ones at the auto store for SUPER cheap, like $3.00 cheap and they work pretty good actually. But I guess you can use a sharpie also.
Sharpies work too! LOL

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post #8 of 261 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 06:22 PM
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Heh I use marker caps for disconnects too, used them on every single one on these cars with success. The proper ones are a bit easier to use since they have a shoulder you can push on, but eh, I always walk by those at at auto parts stores and I always seem to say to myself "eh, I'll get them next time" - several years later I still use marker caps lol
I picked up the cheap plastic tools about 15 years ago, still use them to this very day although they are a little chewed up, every so often you get one of those stubborn fuel lines where the spring doesnt want to expand, so you use plyers and force them in to open it up.

CD's - Take the bolts out, they could be preventing it from moving when you hit it with a hammer. No screwdriver, smack it directly with the hammer. If you use an air compressor to blow out coolant make sure you wear safety glasses because it will fly back into your face. Or suck it out with a shop vac with a soda straw taped to the end or something similar.
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post #9 of 261 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 11:35 PM
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FWIW, I never disconnected my fuel lines from the fuel rail. Just pulled the fuel rail off the intake manifold and set it aside on the passenger shock tower.

Make sure you stuff the intake ports with something! You don't want debris getting into your intake ports for obvious reasons.

The water pump is always a PITA to get off. Just smack the ever loving crap out of it until it comes out. Use a real hammer, you won't get far with a rubber mallet. Time to get all Thor on that SOB! It may help to spray the perimeter of it with penetrating oil and letting it sit for a bit.

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post #10 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-01-2014, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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CD's - Take the bolts out, they could be preventing it from moving when you hit it with a hammer. No screwdriver, smack it directly with the hammer. If you use an air compressor to blow out coolant make sure you wear safety glasses because it will fly back into your face. Or suck it out with a shop vac with a soda straw taped to the end or something similar.
The bolts I have in there now are only about half way in, so the head of the bolt isn't even making contact with the water pump as shown in my picture. Like I said, it's just enough so that the water pump doesn't come crashing down when it finally decides to come off.

I will be using my air compressor to blow out the coolant, and I know about using safety glasses. I also have some rags to go as well to help catch the fly back so it doesn't go all over the place as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgino96tbird46 View Post
Make sure you stuff the intake ports with something! You don't want debris getting into your intake ports for obvious reasons.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgino96tbird46 View Post
The water pump is always a PITA to get off. Just smack the ever loving crap out of it until it comes out. Use a real hammer, you won't get far with a rubber mallet. Time to get all Thor on that SOB! It may help to spray the perimeter of it with penetrating oil and letting it sit for a bit.
OMG! How can I forget such a simple thing! I have some PB Blaster and WD40 I can use! Imna spray the crap outta that when I get home from work tonight and let it sit there overnight!

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post #11 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-01-2014, 02:00 PM
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I put a large prybar behind the pully mount, and smacked the prybar with a BFH.

Don't let it get cocked sideways in the hole, it will get stuck and it will have to be driven back in on that side to loosen it up. (man, do I have a dirty mind, lol.)

Make sure to put something between said prybar (or bfh) and the Radiator and Fan.
I used a 2' piece of 1x12 I had laying around, YMMV.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #12 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-01-2014, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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You know what. While I'm at it all, what are all of the rubber hoses that are emissions related? I might as well replace all of those as well since all this is all out in the open. One how I really want to replace is that little tiny one that goes from the back side of the plenum all the way over to the front of the engine. It's a plastic tube for a good bit, but then it turns to rubber for a bit. The rubber piece is nearly entirely shredded at this point from heat decay.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
I put a large prybar behind the pully mount, and smacked the prybar with a BFH.

Don't let it get cocked sideways in the hole, it will get stuck and it will have to be driven back in on that side to loosen it up. (man, do I have a dirty mind, lol.)

Make sure to put something between said prybar (or bfh) and the Radiator and Fan.
I used a 2' piece of 1x12 I had laying around, YMMV.
Yea, Imna have to try something like that. I'll do the PB Blaster thing and let it sit for a little bit and when I go back to hit, I'll also use a pry bar I have to get the WP off.

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post #13 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-01-2014, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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I'm looking at heater core hoses right now on Rock Auto and I can't tell what hoses I need based off of their selections. I'd prefer the molded hoses of course since those are much less likely to become kinked.


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post #14 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-01-2014, 07:29 PM
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Look at the descriptions; engine to heater is one thing, heater to tube is another.
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post #15 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-01-2014, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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So, one of each then. Got it.

And, where can I purchase a 5/8in 90* tube for the new location of the water tube location? Home Depot or somewhere else? And it has to be brass and not some other material in order to prevent corrosion, IIRC.

As for the water pump, I'm going with the '07 Mustang GT one, but I wasn't expecting the price tag to be ~$100. My question with the water pump though, is what aftermarket pump can I get as an adequate substitute, ACDelco, CardOne, NAPA brand, or AutoZone brand (Duralast IIRC)?

Also, I saw a site that was selling a lightweight / larger diameter water pump pulley. Is that the "under drive" pulley I keep hearing about, or something else?

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post #16 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-01-2014, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CDsDontBurn View Post
So, one of each then. Got it.

And, where can I purchase a 5/8in 90* tube for the new location of the water tube location? Home Depot or somewhere else? And it has to be brass and not some other material in order to prevent corrosion, IIRC.

As for the water pump, I'm going with the '07 Mustang GT one, but I wasn't expecting the price tag to be ~$100. My question with the water pump though, is what aftermarket pump can I get as an adequate substitute, ACDelco, CardOne, NAPA brand, or AutoZone brand (Duralast IIRC)?

Also, I saw a site that was selling a lightweight / larger diameter water pump pulley. Is that the "under drive" pulley I keep hearing about, or something else?
I have a Ford OEM heater core hose to the intake manifold - customer ordered one for me to install on his Super Coupe and when I looked at it, I realized it was for a 4.6 ( I dont own a 4.6 SOHC Tbird , so its not doing me any good sitting on the shelf ) .. you should only need two heater core hoses, one to the bypass tube under the manifold, and one for the intake manifold. All of the emissions related hoses are shown on the VECI on your radiator support.

Doesnt have to be brass. The coolant has anti-corrosion agents inside, as long as your coolant is fresh, you dont need to worry about that. What is re-routed on the new water pump ??

I wouldnt underdrive the water pump at all.
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post #17 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-02-2014, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SCTbird1994 View Post
I have a Ford OEM heater core hose to the intake manifold - customer ordered one for me to install on his Super Coupe and when I looked at it, I realized it was for a 4.6 ( I dont own a 4.6 SOHC Tbird , so its not doing me any good sitting on the shelf ) .. you should only need two heater core hoses, one to the bypass tube under the manifold, and one for the intake manifold. All of the emissions related hoses are shown on the VECI on your radiator support.

Doesnt have to be brass. The coolant has anti-corrosion agents inside, as long as your coolant is fresh, you dont need to worry about that. What is re-routed on the new water pump ??

I wouldnt underdrive the water pump at all.
I know I need two hoses. One to the heater core and another from the heater core. According to this video though, @ 19:35 - 20:13, the PI intake's under the manifold doesn't exactly meet up to where the T-Bird's tube used to go. Hence, the need for the adapter. His PI intake is from an Explorer, so perhaps that has something to do with it? IDK.


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post #18 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-02-2014, 01:54 PM
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If you can find a hose with a 90* bend you can run it straight from the tube to the heater core. No stock hose or adapter.

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post #19 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-02-2014, 05:57 PM
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There are PI heater tubes that terminate on the passenger side, close to where the nPI one on our cars does, and there are PI heater tubes that terminate on the drivers side.

As my car has SATC, I opted for the drivers side termination, ran heater hose across to the passenger side, got a brass 3 way block, put two nipples on it, then the fan lockout temperature sender.

I don't remember well enough to say this is 100% accurate, but I got the tube for a PI mustang (99-04) that terminated on the drivers side. The Crown Vic one terminates on the passenger side, but at an angle.

The difference for the tube isn't because it is an Explorer intake, I didn't watch it enough to see, but the Explorer intake doesn't have the nipple on the passenger rear, it taps into the cooling system on the front crossover.

tube I used:



possible over engineered and could have done differently:


I also experimented with hacking off the end of the original nPI tube but didn't like not having a bump to help keep the heater hose on.



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Last edited by Bangster; 08-02-2014 at 06:13 PM.
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post #20 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-03-2014, 09:37 AM
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My suggestion on hoses is use a new seto for a reference, and go look at the rack of hoses in the back at Advanced auto; ask, they'll let you look.

Find one that's the right size ends, and can be cut somewhere to fit what you need; that's my usual process.

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post #21 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-03-2014, 05:39 PM
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ill have to try and figure out the part number i had too use, but i found a gates hose at my work that was elbowed at one end and about 2 feet long. worked perfectly from the valley tube to the core. just curved it a little to fit on the core.

otherwise the core to intake was the OE Thunderbird hose because i used the FRPP intake which has the nipple on the back where it needs too be.

had to fix that hose at work actually since the cold engine lockout switch i kept in place with part of the old tube started too leak a little.

PI-Intake on a '94/'95 4.6

edit:

i'm pretty sure i used another 18071 but i didn't cut it in half for the CELO switch this time around. i wanted to say their was a difference in the sizes from the coolant tube to the heater core. thought the core was like 3/4 inside dia instead of the 5/8 on the tube. otherwise i did find a piece of hose with the tag still on it in the garage that might be it, it was a 28467 supposedly a 16" elbowed hose with both 5/8 ends on it.

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Last edited by nall_one; 08-05-2014 at 06:20 PM.
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post #22 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-04-2014, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Parts Questions

In regards to the nipple, does anyone know what the part number for it is? After some Googling, I've come across PN F75Z8555-AA, but I'm not 100% sure that's the one. It's got the two O-Rings like I've read around here, but I'm not sure if that's the PN I need. I'm ready to buy a few things, but I just need confirmation of this PN to make my purchase.

Also, since I'm in the process of cleaning up the engine, what are some recommended methods of cleaning out the valley? I was thinking of using some low pressure water to hose down as much of the dried up coolant as possible, some engine degreaser afterwards, followed by more low pressure water all while making sure I don't get anything down the intake passages.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CDsDontBurn View Post
As for the water pump, I'm going with the '07 Mustang GT one, but I wasn't expecting the price tag to be ~$100. My question with the water pump though, is what aftermarket pump can I get as an adequate substitute, ACDelco, CardOne, NAPA brand, or AutoZone brand (Duralast IIRC)?

Also, I saw a site that was selling a lightweight / larger diameter water pump pulley. Is that the "under drive" pulley I keep hearing about, or something else?
And any insight on the 07 Mustang GT non-motorcraft water pump? What I'm most concerned about is the length of the neck not being the same as the one for the T-Bird and thus causing the serpentine belt to slip off.

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Last edited by CDsDontBurn; 08-04-2014 at 10:12 AM.
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post #23 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-04-2014, 10:51 AM
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For the nipple, just order one for a 99-04 mustang gt. Nothing else to it.

For the water pump, they should all be dimensionally equivalent for the same model year. If one fits, then they all will fit. If you're so worried about it, you don't have to get an 07 mustang gt pump, you can get any model year so long as you have the appropriate pulley for it (from that same vehicle). I used the short water pump but with the pulley meant for it and it worked just fine.
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post #24 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-07-2014, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Progress! I removed the water pump earlier today! I ended up just hammering away at the front end of the WP until it eventually had given a little bit.

After removal, I inspected it and noticed that the O-Ring had essentially dissolved within the housing. All that was left was a black goopy ring of where the O-Ring would have been.

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post #25 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-07-2014, 08:07 PM
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yep, the dissimilar metals corrode quite badly together. when i finally got mine off, it was all white powdery corrosion and the cracked gooy remains of the ORing.

needless to say, i anti-seized the piss out of it before it went back in

now the fun process of knocking that old nipple out, i ended up destroying mine with a punch and chisel. then i put a little RTV on the new one and drove it home with a large chunk of round-stock steel and a hammer.

and those 07 GT pumps have the same exact 3.43" hub height as the ones we have. the motorcraft pump number listed for the 94-97 thunderbirds crossed right over to it. it just came with the more efficient closed vein impeller design. plus it was easier to use the pulley i already had.

otherwise GM is right, the short one will work, but you have to have the pulley with the dished in hub, then it will hold the belt in the exact same place as the factory one.

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post #26 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-07-2014, 08:49 PM
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The pump for the 03-04 Cobras is closed vane and will allow you to re-use your stock pulley.

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post #27 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-07-2014, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nall_one View Post
yep, the dissimilar metals corrode quite badly together. when i finally got mine off, it was all white powdery corrosion and the cracked gooy remains of the ORing.

needless to say, i anti-seized the piss out of it before it went back in

now the fun process of knocking that old nipple out, i ended up destroying mine with a punch and chisel. then i put a little RTV on the new one and drove it home with a large chunk of round-stock steel and a hammer.

and those 07 GT pumps have the same exact 3.43" hub height as the ones we have. the motorcraft pump number listed for the 94-97 thunderbirds crossed right over to it. it just came with the more efficient closed vein impeller design. plus it was easier to use the pulley i already had.

otherwise GM is right, the short one will work, but you have to have the pulley with the dished in hub, then it will hold the belt in the exact same place as the factory one.
Removing the old one is super easy however there is a trick to it, hit it with authority dead on the first time, if it bends then drive a 3/8's extension through it from the water pump side to straighten it and try again. DO NOT tap it repeatedly softly. Find a big hammer and smack it HARD the first time.

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post #28 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-08-2014, 10:35 PM
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/emp-ste50046l

Doesn't this pump allow you to use the old pulley?
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post #29 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-08-2014, 10:37 PM
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Yuck, open vane pos

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post #30 of 261 (permalink) Old 08-09-2014, 09:15 AM
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Just great. I did my searching on this site and that's what I bought.
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